Please help with fish selection for new scape

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  • #51
OK, you’re totally geeked out hardware wise and ready for anything.

For a floater look at Brazilian Pennywort grown as a floating vine.


You simply get some plant weight material and some 20lb fishing line and you can make a 2-2.5” lasso that loops over last node of the vine to anchor it and crimp it over rim in strategic positions, easy to keep out of overflows, or if you’ve got plumping coming over back rim you can secure it to that.

When it grows out to long and starts overtaking the surface of the tank you simply snip off the oldest 1/3-1/2 of vine, throw old end in trash and reattach the new fresh vibrant cut end back into position. Repeat every 3-4 weeks. You barely have to get your hands wet and it is a water cleaning super plant. Everytime you snip out that old growth and refresh the vines you are throwing the waste those plant have absorbed in the trash and removing contaminants from tank.

Anubias, in that size tank go for a couple larger specimens, A, Hastifolia or Lanceolata for instance. I’d also increase gravel depth to 1.5-2” in tank and find a spot to throw in a couple Aponogeton Crispus. A couple well rooted crown type plants, set them and forget them are a plus in regards processing substrate waste. They develop huge root networks under substrate. A few crypt plants species around bottom are also a good investment for same reason. Set them in and they will root out through substrate and go for years before you have to thin them out.

1st fish. Dither fish.

I’d order a dozen ember tetra and a dozen cherry barb, both calm, chill fish, super easy to keep/feed that will occupy lower mid range. Then after 3-4 weeks I’d repeat that same order for 2 dozen of each species.

Then after 3-4 more weeks I’d add 4, maybe 5 of these guys, you’ve got plenty of real estate for them stake out their turf. Stunning fish, you will have to target feed but coming from a reef setup I will assume you know how to use a turkey baster/bulb syringe.

https://dansfish.com/product.detail/706/Black-Tiger-Dario---probably-all-males-(Dario-tigris)

Also on Siamese Algae eaters scratch that. When they get bigger they become bullies. When tank settles in and you get some biofilm going just get you herd of Cory of your liking and/or some smaller pleco. Add some snails.

After that you can fill in a few larger species.

Lots of good ideas in there ! I’ll certainly look at them. I’m constantly changing my mind and right now thinking about switching the tetras for a mix of pearl gouramis and gold pearl gouramis. 8-9 total.

For the sand, I don’t know if I’m willing to increase it. I’m totally fed up of dealing with sand. I went barebottom with my reef before tearing it down and want an easy sand maintenance set up for my next tank.

I tore down the tank yesterday and still cleaning equipment and the tank itself. So still more time to decide. I plan to start my cycle within a week or so. I’ll be trying an « instant cycle » this time. Never did before. It’s supposed to take 10 days but we’ll see. I’m not going to put any fish into a tank that has abnormal ammonia and/or nitrites.
 

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Love the Pearl Gourami idea for this size tank, they are real showstoppers. ++ Prefer the blue’ish standard version personally.

But I would still start with getting a thriving colony of dither type fish going as first stage inhabitants. Ignoring tetra is fine but still do say 15 or so cherry barb as tanks first addition. Don’t underestimate the importance of setting up community feel to tank before adding Gourami. Gourami will acclimate themselves in much quicker and act normal if there’s established colony of dither fish.

As far as gravel goes, in freshwater tank your worrying about a non-existent problem that probably won’t happen unless your grossly over feeding.

With your superior circulation 95% of waste will stay on top of a good 1-3mm sand bed where it can easily siphoned off top with a siphon wand at water change. Using a turkey baster to blow excess detritus out of crevices between rocks/wood will probably become a semi-monthly routine.

My previous recommendation of adding crown plants is main reason you need 1.5” substrate. Any waste that makes it deep into substrate layer you just leave it, it’s fert for crown plants. You NEVER vacuum or touch substrate layer, never. It’s a biofilter layer that shouldn’t be severely disturbed except in extreme instances. Setup sand layer as a biofilter with thriving crown plants. Crypt, Swords, Aponogeton even some Lily bulbs. They don’t have to be edge to edge in coverage across bottom, just stand of crypt here, a sword plant there. After a few months their roots will be running 6-8” out from plants crown.

I’ll throws these in now as a substrate surface grazing/clean up crew.

https://dansfish.com/product.detail/5073/Dwarf-Chain-Loach-(Ambastaia-sidthimunki)

They agitate and keep top layer substrate loose and mulm layer floating around. They will delve into cracks and crevices looking for old food etc

Cherry Barbs, Pearl Gourami and some Dwarf Chain Loaches sound like a good combo for this tank.
 

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  • #53
Love the Pearl Gourami idea for this size tank, they are real showstoppers. ++ Prefer the blue’ish standard version personally.
I didn’t know they existed, will look into it !

But I would still start with getting a thriving colony of dither type fish going as first stage inhabitants. Ignoring tetra is fine but still do say 15 or so cherry barb as tanks first addition. Don’t underestimate the importance of setting up community feel to tank before adding Gourami. Gourami will acclimate themselves in much quicker and act normal if there’s established colony of dither fish.
I like cherry barbs a lot but wouldn’t the chocolate cichlid just eat them ? That’s why I’m looking at fish that are 3 inches or more, and preferably not elongated as the risk of being eaten is higher.


My previous recommendation of adding crown plants is main reason you need 1.5” substrate. Any waste that makes it deep into substrate layer you just leave it, it’s fert for crown plants. You NEVER vacuum or touch substrate layer, never. It’s a biofilter layer that shouldn’t be severely disturbed except in extreme instances. Setup sand layer as a biofilter with thriving crown plants.
The chocolate cichlid is omnivore and likes to munch on plants. That’s why I am going with thick anubias and similar plants which have more chance to be left alone.

I’ll throws these in now as a substrate surface grazing/clean up crew.

https://dansfish.com/product.detail/5073/Dwarf-Chain-Loach-(Ambastaia-sidthimunki)
I don’t think those would make it alive for very long either.

I will consider adding the gouramis second, after the diamond tetras, instead of first. I didn’t think it mattered to them.
 
So while I liked DaveKS's idea about gouramis, barbs and loaches, I was temporarily forgetting about the chocolate cichlid. Personally I much prefer to keep fish from the same continent together, I am not saying you have to do this, its up to you of course, but to me either the above selection, or cichlids, tetras and Corydoras and/or plecos would be more pleasing....instead of Gourami have you ever considered festivums? I know they aren't the most colourful fish but I find them very attractive in a group, they have "personality" and (unlike angelfish) are not trouble makers, at least in my experience. You could have a decent sized group and they would be fine with the chocolate cichlid and the tetras you chose. You could have Corydoras for the bottom too...
 
Conversely instead of chocolate you could keep one of those giant gourami including:

Osphronemus goramy
Helostoma temminckii
Trichopodus pectoralis

(and others)


You will have to do your own research on compatibility ;)
 
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  • #56
instead of Gourami have you ever considered festivums? I know they aren't the most colourful fish but I find them very attractive in a group, they have "personality" and (unlike angelfish) are not trouble makers, at least in my experience. You could have a decent sized group and they would be fine with the chocolate cichlid and the tetras you chose. You could have Corydoras for the bottom too...
Festivums were on my first draft, actually. I removed them for fear of conflict with the angel and chocolate, and because the gouramis would be more peaceful. In this tank the most important criteria is peacefulness and a very relaxing atmosphere to it.

Conversely instead of chocolate you could keep one of those giant gourami including:

Osphronemus goramy
Helostoma temminckii
Trichopodus pectoralis

(and others)


You will have to do your own research on compatibility ;)
I’ll look into that. I’m really into the beautiful chocolate cichlid but you never know !
 

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In my 600 I have chocolate, festivum and angels and they pretty much all get along - though it would be best to avoid m/f angels.
 
Yes angels should be fine with festivums, though they are more temperamental, the festivums are very peaceful in a group, angels are not always angelic. They do occur together naturally so it should be a good combination
 
I like cherry barbs a lot but wouldn’t the chocolate just eat them ? That’s why I’m looking at fish that are 3 inches or more, and preferably not elongated as the risk of being eaten is higher.

I myself can’t see a chocolate chichlid (8-10”+) in this 48” tank. The pearl gourami would be about the largest fish (4.5”+) for me in this size tank for me. To me you seem to have varied off course from what you originally stated in your 1st post about your intentions for this tank. Your only tank, full of life but calm and tranquil. Which to me in this size tank is lots of dither fish and a few other keystone 4-6” species

Consider a keyhole chichlid instead. It maxes out at 6”. Absolutely one of the most chill chichlid you can get. Mostly plant safe but in their biofilm/algae grazing can damage softer stem plants like say rotala Indica etc.
Keyhole Cichlid Freshwater Fish | Arizona Aquatic Gardens

Just posted that link for reference only (best picture). Buyer beware with that outfit.
 
I myself can’t see a chocolate chichlid (8-10”+) in this 48” tank.
You are absolutely right, I'm not sure why I was thinking this tank was bigger, yes the chocolate when full grown will be too big.
 
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  • #61
I myself can’t see a chocolate chichlid (8-10”+) in this 48” tank. The pearl gourami would be about the largest fish (4.5”+) for me in this size tank for me. To me you seem to have varied off course from what you originally stated in your 1st post about your intentions for this tank. Your only tank, full of life but calm and tranquil. Which to me in this size tank is lots of dither fish and a few other keystone 4-6” species
I did a lot of research and never heard anyone say they would be too big for this tank. Someone even said they would do well in a 75 gallons. Thats why I chose them.

I keep changing my mind because I can’t find the fish I love that would fit all the criteria. My favorite is the Severum but from what I’ve read it will destroy any plant, even anubias. I don’t want a lot of plants, but anubias and moss are a priority for a zen look. If not, a severum would be my main fish.


Consider a keyhole chichlid instead. It maxes out at 6”. Absolutely one of the most chill chichlid you can get. Mostly plant safe but in their biofilm/algae grazing can damage softer stem plants like say rotala Indica etc.

Keyhole cichlid was in my list at a certain point but it’s not spectacular enough to be the centre piece. Then it got eliminated because the colors didn’t fit with the others.

I know, I’m complicated…

Your only tank, full of life but calm and tranquil.
That is still my absolute goal and it will not change.
 

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My favorite is the Severum but from what I’ve read it will destroy any plant, even anubias.
Yes, they do eat plants. I have one that is over 5 years old. When I first got her she was about 2" and I initially had her with some young festivums in a 4ft tank, but I knew at the time this was temporary as we had already started to build the much bigger tank. The first tank did have some plants - java ferns and Amazon swords maybe some Vallisneria, I can't remember exactly, anyway at that time she did not eat the plants. However with increasing age she has become far more herbivorous. I haven't tried her with Anubias (too expensive to risk) but everything else is devoured including java moss - except water lettuce, she doesn't touch that. Also with increasing age she has grown of course, and she is now huge, I would hate to see her in a 4ft tank now. I know people do keep them in smaller tanks, and probably the same with chocolate cichlids (and oscars). Your tank has a much bigger volume than the 4ft tank I had, its deeper and a little taller, and you have a large sump, so water quality probably wouldn't be an issue - but it is the length that concerns me, a big fish doesn't have far to go in 4ft and takes up a lot of space in there.... Just saying...
 
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  • #63
I would hate to see her in a 4ft tank now. I know people do keep them in smaller tanks, and probably the same with chocolate cichlids (and oscars). Your tank has a much bigger volume than the 4ft tank I had, its deeper and a little taller, and you have a large sump, so water quality probably wouldn't be an issue - but it is the length that concerns me, a big fish doesn't have far to go in 4ft and takes up a lot of space in there.... Just saying...
Yeah, okay, that’s too big. I rehomed a one spot foxface from my reef because I felt it didn’t have enough space to swim. He was 8 inches. I should stick with 6 inches, 7 at the most.
 
Keyhole cichlid was in my list at a certain point but it’s not spectacular enough to be the centre piece. Then it got eliminated because the colors didn’t fit with the others.

I know, I’m complicated…
How about raise your GH/KH slightly and get a Purple Striped Gudgeon. :-) Maxes out about 6”+. Doesn’t eat plants but 1” dither fish will need to go elsewhere. Absolutely one of my fav fish I ever kept. Just feed them regularly and smaller tank inhabitants are not a target.

Mine once he was use to the routine just slowly and calmly came up and took the krill, shrimp or food sticks from my fingertips. No thrashing attacks. They are actually very intelligent/friendly fish.

Photo, like most aquarium photos doesn’t really capture the rich sparkling blue/purple running along their flanks.


IMG_0464.jpeg

Seriously, you’ve got a sump, adding a small bag of aragonite/oyster shells in output sump to shift your tank slightly harder is not a problem that I would worry about. Make it what you want.
 
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  • #65
How about raise your GH/KH slightly and get a Purple Striped Gudgeon. :-) Maxes out about 6”+. Doesn’t eat plants but 1” dither fish will need to go elsewhere. Absolutely one of my fav fish I ever kept. Just feed them regularly and smaller tank inhabitants are not a target.

Mine once he was use to the routine just slowly and calmly came up and took the krill, shrimp or food sticks from my fingertips. No thrashing attacks. They are actually very intelligent/friendly fish.

Photo, like most aquarium photos doesn’t really capture the rich sparkling blue/purple running along their flanks.


View attachment 930258

Seriously, you’ve got a sump, adding a small bag of aragonite/oyster shells in output sump to shift your tank slightly harder is not a problem that I would worry about. Make it what you want.
It’s a pretty fish and you’re right about the sump. I could add some aragonite to it, it’s an option.

For now I’m pretty happy with my last selection but you never know, I might change my mind again, lol !
 

Random Great Topic!

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