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First Saltwater tank ever.
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You are looking at some pricey fish there. Live Aquaria lists the Red Tail at $100 and the Exquisite Fairy Wrasse at $60. It's just me personally but I set a cap on the purchase price of my fish given all the things that can potentially go wrong with them and how expensive it would be if you have something like a tank heater that fails. I was seriously considering the exquisite but it's right at the limit of my cap ($60 MAX per fish) and the fact that I am not sure how my established melanurus wrasse would take to it, I decided to pass. Obviously it's your money and your tank, but from a value perspective the Melanurus and the Red Lined run about $30-$35 a piece for a small one. Have you considered the Carpenter's Flasher Wrasse as it would be similar to the Red Tail but at $40 it would be MUCH cheaper:
My next additions will be,
I like the carpenter flasher, multI color fairy wrasse, and the whip fin fairy wrasse I want to add two of them but I will lean on you guys for expertise of how well that would work.
I also want a coral beauty and gold head goby
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I assume by multi-color you are talking about the Tri-Color or Lubbock's Fairy Wrasse? If so, then it would be a pretty decent choice as many people have good luck with them and they provide quite a bit of color and activity to the tank. They can be somewhat aggressive, but I haven't heard any really bad horror stories about them. The Whip fin on the other hand, I have heard a few horror stories about them. I would go with the Carpenter and Lubbock and call it good. As for the Coral Beauty, it would be a terrific addition to the FOWLR tank but I would strongly recommend adding it as one of your last fish both to help reduce aggression (normally they aren't too bad but there are some of them that can be mean) and give a chance for your algae to develop and build up a bit on the rocks. I just added one to my tank with a Yellow Tang a few weeks ago and it's spends it's day grazing on the rocks, the algae build up on my overflow and even the little bit that is on the glass. It also helps to keep it well fed with seaweed. All of these factors keep your coral beauty focused on doing a beneficial service for your tank and less time focusing on being hungry (which leads to both stress and aggression). Here is mine with his tank mates grazing on seaweed:
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HI all! I will be setting up my very first reef tank in the coming weeks. I have chosen to use my 40G breeder tank for this. Anyways, I would like to go sumpless as well as skimmerless. Yes I know this isn’t typical or recommended but I figure I can get by with PhosGuard and Purigen as well as water changes on a regular basis. I will be investing in a RO/DI system. I am looking for suggestions mainly on lighting, as I will be going with an AquaClear 50 or 70 for my filtration. I already have a power head I would like to reuse. Also, what type of substrate should I go with as well as what is the best cost efficient rock option?
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40 g breeder is a perfect first tank! Congrats on deciding to go salty! Any reson why you don't want to go sumpless? Its very easy to install a cheap sump. However, if you don't want to, I would get an Aquaclear 110, and mod it into a 'fuge'. Basically you set it up with a grow light and some macro algae, and the macro algae uses nutrients like nitrate when it grows. You prune it every so often, and throw away all those nutrients it used to grow.
Lighting... A few options. You have a t5 ballast. It will be the least expensive to set up, but you have very little controllability such as ramp on/off, spectrum (except for changing the bulb color), ect. You also have to swap the bulbs every 6 months which adds up. Then, you can get LEDs, which is what I'd suggest. They'll be more expensive from the start, but they last a very long time, and have tons of controllabltiy/options. You will have to get either a long enough light to light the whole tank, or two pendants such as an AI Hydra or Radions. Check out for various lighting types, pendant style, one long light, ect. stella1979 got her light from here and loves it.
Any kind of reef substrate will work. I really like the classic FijI pink. CaribSea Arag-Alive Live Aragonite Reef Sand, FijI Pink, 20-lb bag
I would get another powerhead if you're going reef, the Jebao brand are cheap and good, but tend to give out after a few years. Ecotech Marine MP powerheads are the top of the line and will last you forever.
Best cost effecient rock option would be look out for deals on rocks around you. People around me ar always selling it for cheap, or giving it away. Don't be afraid to drive a bit for it if it'l get you a better deal. If you don't want to wait, I find the BRS reef saver rock is an excellent rock for scaping, looks, and its pretty much the cheapest you'll find.
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Thank you so much for all this advice! I’ll certainly look into everything you’ve talked about. I actually found a Biocube on the classifieds last night and think I am going to go pick it up today. It has 20+ pounds of live rock and another 20+ pounds of live sand. Couple of clownfish. Even has a protein skimmer and an almost full bucket of Red Sea Coral Pro. Hopefully I will be able to use that until I get the 40 equipment all the way up and running then be able to move it over to help seed some dry rock and avoid paying 5+ per pound for live rock/sand.
So one last question in case anyone sees this before I go pick that up. Is it alright to transfer all the water and livestock inside a Rubbermaid tote? It’s about an hour drive.
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Hi! Congratulations!!! I've been successfully been running a 20G mixed reef without a sump or skimmer. I think a 40G is about as big as I'd go with a closed system like that, and you are right, regular maintenance and strict water changes are key to success here. Another HUGE key to success is using a RODI system that produces 0 TDS water. RODI systems also must be maintained in good working order, though maintenance on that is much less frequent than the tank.
I also use an Aquaclear. It's an AC70 that's been modified slightly so it can handle mechanical, biological, and chemical filtration, and also work as a refugium, (fuge.) A fuge is simply a place where macroalgae, (usually chaeto), can be grown, and as it grows, it 'eats' nitrates. So, like a skimmer but simpler, a fuge is for nutrient reduction. We wanted the space of an AC70, but when we turned it into a fuge by installing a couple of baffles, we also wanted to slow the flow through the hob to water would have more contact time with everything inside... which includes a filter pad, Seachem Matrix, quality carbon, and the chaeto. So, we switched out the AC70 impeller with one made for an AC30. If you'd like to see how this filter is set up, I'm pretty sure pics are on page 16 of my salty thread, which you can find linked in my signature.
With twice the volume, I'd either do two AC70's (one as a full fuge, the other for mechanical, bio, and chemI media) or an AC110. I think I'd prefer two 70's because I don't think the impeller can be switched on the 110, which I think is best for a fuge.
Whelp, I started writing this over an hour ago but got busy, so came back to finish and saw that good ol' Culprit is helping you out too. He's steering you right regarding sand and rocks, though I'd just like to say, live rock can be really great for cycling and biodiversity, but like anything, it has it's bad side too... and that is, it can come with pests and algae that you may not want to deal with. I decided dry rock was a better choice for me. It does take longer to cycle and become mature, biodiverse live rock, but it is guaranteed pest free and becomes live rock in the tank.
Yes, lighting is expensive and not something to take lightly if a reef tank is your goal. I started with T5's and while they were okay, it didn't work out for me in the long run. Good bulbs for a T5 fixture are ATI's or Geisemanns, which you can find online. However, good bulbs aren't all that cheap either, and with the cost of my fixture and the bulbs, I spent more than $200 on a light that, in the end, didn't fit well over my tank, so needed replacing. I then purchased an SB Reef Lights Ultra 22", which provides plenty of power for a 40B and is a very good light... though the app used to control it could be better. Anyhow, my point in sharing all of this is that I believe my biggest mistake was purchasing that first light and trying to make it work, only to have to invest in lighting a second time less than a year in. Do your research, and get the best light your budget will allow the first time around. Don't buy lighting twice.
Yes, you can transfer the rock and water in a Rubbermaid tote. It's important to keep live rock wet at all times, or you risk die off and an ammonia spike/cycle issues.
Wow! Thank you for all this advice! I think going and buying the Biocube that is up and running will give me a good opportunity to learn more about it as I put together the 40G lighting and filtration. Maybe you have an opinion on what I am paying for it? 140 for a bucket of Red Sea Pro, Biocube and stand, Skimmer, then the rock and sand, as well as two clownfish and another fish I forgot about. I think I will be going with 1 AC70 initially as I just found out I have a buddy that is looking to downsize his current 70 to a 30 (on a 10G nano-reef lol!). Then after that I will look into the lights both of you guys speak of. Can my dry rock cycle without light? This would give me ample time to search the used market for a nicer used light, and if I don’t eventually find one then I can go with one of the options you guys have suggested. RO/DI won't be an issue as I’ll just invest in a system in order to fill the 40G. Until then, I’ll buy it from my LFS (.49/gal sound about right?) and mix it at home since I’ll have the salt (unless it’s worth .99/gal for Brightwell premixed).
Sounds like a great deal. Just check how old the tank is, if its leaking, cracks, chips, scratches, ect. don't be afraid to haggle. You might be able to get them down to $110-120.
Yup you can definitely cycle without light! If you wanted, you could put something like a desk lamp over it so you could see the fish while you cycle .
50 cents a gallon is what I used to pay for RODI. I would definitily mix at home if you have the salt.
OH! When transferring everything, I'd take the fish and put them in as large of a tupperware or container as you can. A 5 gallon bucket would be best. Take the sand, and when you get home wash it really really well. I'd wash it with plain tap, and then let it dry out. The rock will hold enough of the cycle to keep it. But if you don't wash the sand, there's going to be so much in there thhat it'll crash your tank and you'll be trying to siphon it out for the rest of the time you ahev the sand. You can just put the rock in the tank with the fish, and they'll be fine for the few days it'll take to get the sand washed and dryed out.
Yup you can definitely cycle without light! If you wanted, you could put something like a desk lamp over it so you could see the fish while you cycle .
50 cents a gallon is what I used to pay for RODI. I would definitily mix at home if you have the salt.
OH! When transferring everything, I'd take the fish and put them in as large of a tupperware or container as you can. A 5 gallon bucket would be best. Take the sand, and when you get home wash it really really well. I'd wash it with plain tap, and then let it dry out. The rock will hold enough of the cycle to keep it. But if you don't wash the sand, there's going to be so much in there thhat it'll crash your tank and you'll be trying to siphon it out for the rest of the time you ahev the sand. You can just put the rock in the tank with the fish, and they'll be fine for the few days it'll take to get the sand washed and dryed out.
From what she has told me she’s had it up and running for two years but bought it before that, just never had time. It’s been a FOWLR tank so I assume she hasn’t been running lights as much as she would’ve with coral. I figure even if the tank is junk brand new ones are on sale for 160 at my LFS and I only truly need it to tide me over for the 40. I’m buying it more for the livestock/stand and $70 bucket of salt than anything. I’ll make sure to keep the rock wet and clean out the sand really well before putting it back in the tank. I have heard crushed coral is not a great substrate is that correct? Just wanted to make sure because I have about 150 pounds if it laying around from the Freshwater cichlid tank I just sold (upgraded to a 125 RR on that and will become a saltwater setup eventually if I like the 40 a lot). Luckily all I’ll need to do for that is buy a protein slimmer/reactors as I built it as a salt setup then put fresh in it.
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I agree with what has been said above. 40 breeder is a great size and you don't need a sump or skimmer if you are willing to commit to weekly water changes of 8-10 gallons, stick to frozen foods (which produce less waste) and don't overfeed. You can either do a fuge with cheato or some form of macroalgae to help process nutrients/waste or you can go with Chemipure Elite or GFO with Granulated Ferric Oxide to reduce phosphates in your HOB filter (I Recommend Aquaclear/Fluval or Seachem Tidal 70/75). For lighting it all depends on what you want to do with it. If you want a fully active reef loaded with corals, it would probably be worth it to invest in a pair of AI Prime HDs for the tank (be aware it will cost you around $450 shipped with the mounts). They are fully programmable out of the box (no separate controller purchase required) and are great lights for the money. I have a pair of the Prime's bigger cousin, the Hydra 26HDs on a rail mount over my 90 gallon and love them.
After around 6 years of being in the Freshwater game, I thought I would get into the Saltwater game. This is my 20 gallon long.
The sand is Carib-sea Arag alive
The water is Nutra-sea
The dry rock is 15 lbs from Billy's reef connection
Filter is Aqueon quiet flow
Heater is Aqueon 50 Watt
The light is just a standard flourescent, lol. Will change it when I start with corals.
No wavemaker yet. Will get it after it cycles
The sand is Carib-sea Arag alive
The water is Nutra-sea
The dry rock is 15 lbs from Billy's reef connection
Filter is Aqueon quiet flow
Heater is Aqueon 50 Watt
The light is just a standard flourescent, lol. Will change it when I start with corals.
No wavemaker yet. Will get it after it cycles
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Congratulations!! Welcome to the salty side.
Hmmm, I'd recommend the powerhead addition happen asap. Even beneficial bacteria, (the marine kind), prefer flow like is found in the ocean.
The tank looks great!! How many bulbs will your light fixture hold? I ask because my own 20 gallon long reef was under a 4-bulb T5 fixture for the better part of a year before I switched to LED. Fluorescent lighting can support a reef, but there's got to be enough light provided, and bulb choice is important. If I can help you with this, just let me know.
Either way, I love seeing a new salty tank around here, and I'm glad to follow your build.
Hmmm, I'd recommend the powerhead addition happen asap. Even beneficial bacteria, (the marine kind), prefer flow like is found in the ocean.
The tank looks great!! How many bulbs will your light fixture hold? I ask because my own 20 gallon long reef was under a 4-bulb T5 fixture for the better part of a year before I switched to LED. Fluorescent lighting can support a reef, but there's got to be enough light provided, and bulb choice is important. If I can help you with this, just let me know.
Either way, I love seeing a new salty tank around here, and I'm glad to follow your build.
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Errmm... Isn't all oceanic sand crushed coral? Seriously though, marine sand is all made of the same stuff, and the difference lies in grain size. Back in the day, all anybody used (or could get) for reef tanks was crushed coral, and then, like with everything else, more options became available. Point is, crushed coral will have the same buffering capacity, will hold the same bacteria and other critters, and can be used. The problem is the large grain size is not good for sand sifters or other fish and inverts that burrow into the sand. Also, due to more open space, it may allow more detritus to settle, which in turn could make it difficult to keep a clean sandbed and nitrates down. In other words, crushed coral could make for a dirtier tank, and that leads to a much higher risk of nuisance algae, or worse, cyanobacteria.
The rare reefer still prefers crushed coral, say for a high flow tank, where finer sand would blow around. But, from what I've read, these aquarists need to put extra effort into keeping the substrate clean and nitrates down. So, I (and lots of other folks) prefer sand with a grain size of about 1-2mm, while the crushed coral I find for sale is 3.5-5mm. CaribSea Arag Alive Special Grade is what I have and I like it a lot. Sorry to be a bummer, but I would not use crushed coral, nor would I recommend it to a beginner. However, you could if you're careful with stocking, keep a close eye on nitrates and phosphates, and be prepared to do what it takes to keep it clean.
I don't have a job, so I can't afford LED lighting. I have looked and can't find good ones for less than $100. I get $100 a week cleaning the house for my dad, but the money goes towards food too
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ATI makes a great T5 bulb, and they are the brand that I use in my T5 light. Again, it was a 4 bulb and I'm sorry, but I don't think much of anything will survive under only one. Of course, you could try, but even with a hardy, low-light coral, I would highly suggest placing it as high in your tank as possible.
While it's important to have enough bulbs (for enough PAR for your corals), and yes, they do cost more over time, T5's aren't as expensive up front and are perhaps better than the reputation preceding them. Here's some food for thought. Personally, my dream light is a T5/LED hybrid.
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Hmm, I'm not the best with lighting, to be honest, and only know that I'd prefer four bulbs as that is what worked for me. Yes, it would work, but I would prefer two of them. I understand working on a tight budget though, so perhaps one now, and one later? Taking your time with lighting isn't so bad as it allows you to spend that time researching corals. Also worth mentioning... I started my tank with Coralife bulbs (2 Actinic + 2 10,000K) and really did not like the look they produced. So, while the fixture is probably fine, I'd still put ATI bulbs in it. So, whichever fixture you get, make sure it will accommodate the bulb sizes ATI offers. The last two videos above will give you an idea of which bulbs you might like. I went with 2 Blue Plus, 1 Purple Plus, and 1 Coral Plus. It does produce a very nice spectrum and the light would have been fine if it weren't for my unique setup. I have limited space above the tank that did not allow me to center the rather bulky T5 fixture over it. That, added to future costs of a T5 setup were deciding factors in switching to an LED light that was slI'm enough to be mounted perfectly... though, I want to tell you that I really do understand working on a budget, as it took me 6 months or more of saving, and the light wasn't switched until about month 9 with this tank. So, I can honestly say that the T5's sufficed... it was just my inability to mount it correctly that caused corals to survive, but not really thrive. I now have that fixture over a quarantine tank, and though I haven't purchased corals for a long while now, having that light over it allows me to qt corals and will assist in keeping my tank pest free.
Hey! I’m starting my first saltwater tank! I have a 33 gallon aquarium. I’d like to have 2 clown fish, a cleaner of some kind (maybe a snail) and maybe one other fish for variety. I’m thinking a dwarf angel. Is that too much for a 33 gallon aquarium? Will those species be happy together? Is there a better species than the angel to put with clown fish?
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Dwarf angels you wanna go for min of 30gal for them alone. I assume youd be getting a larger type of clown so they would likely account for the majority of your tank space.
Congrats on getting into the salty hobby. Its definitely not a cheap one to delve into, but it is a lot of fun.
Ensure you account for all equipment that will be needed for your individual setup. Dont forget to factor in things like testing equipment (an absolute must), RODI system (recommended), and salt costs over time.
Will you be doing a fish only, FOWLR, or reef tank? We could give better suggestions going forward if we knew those things.
What type of filtration system are you planning on using?
Live rock start or dry rock start?
I'd go with a goby or blenny as a tank mate...generally pretty neutral with tank mates and don't get too big.
Congrats on getting into the salty hobby. Its definitely not a cheap one to delve into, but it is a lot of fun.
Ensure you account for all equipment that will be needed for your individual setup. Dont forget to factor in things like testing equipment (an absolute must), RODI system (recommended), and salt costs over time.
Will you be doing a fish only, FOWLR, or reef tank? We could give better suggestions going forward if we knew those things.
What type of filtration system are you planning on using?
Live rock start or dry rock start?
I'd go with a goby or blenny as a tank mate...generally pretty neutral with tank mates and don't get too big.
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You might be able to pull it off. Maybe a Coral Beauty or Flame Angel. Triple up on your filtration. A bigger tank would make for a more stable environment . Black Friday is almost here.
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I would not put an angel in a 33 gallon they are too large and too active. They move constantly.
I’d do the two clowns and there are a multitude of other smaller fish that can go with them many gobies, fire fish, cardinal bangis, there’s lots of small saltwater fish.
I’d do the two clowns and there are a multitude of other smaller fish that can go with them many gobies, fire fish, cardinal bangis, there’s lots of small saltwater fish.
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Agreed. My general recommendation is Pygmy for 3 foot long minimum and Dwarf Angels for 4 foot long minimum. They are very active fish and can be somewhat aggressive and this becomes a bigger factor the more cramped the fish is.
To give you an idea here is my Coral Beauty Dwarf Angel in my current 90 gallon tank:
thanks for the reply
I’m doing live rock and I’d love to add an anemone at some point but I don’t have reef lighting yet. I have a nice filter that hangs on the edge of the tank (sorry I don’t know the names of stuff) but I think I may upgrade to one that sits below the tank. We’re leaving on a few week Christmas vacation soon so I’ll be buying everything but the fish before that... but I don’t have everything just yet. I have the tank, nets, drip line, testing kits, heater etc. still allot to get.
I’m not sold on an angel yet. The clown fish are what I really want. If I could put something else for a little variety that’d be a bonus. A Blenney could be cool
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Agreed. Clown Gobies can be fun as can YWG (Yellow Watchman Gobies) or a Tangori, Hi-Fin or a bunch of other varieties. Small Blennies can be fun too (ie Tailspot, Barnacle, Harptail).
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We’re wanting to start a saltwater tank. I bought a 25 gallon acrylic tank that’s 20”x20”x15”tall. I’ve been doing research but there’s so much info out there so it’s hard to decipher what’s what. The whole reason for starting this tank was to get a skunk cleaner shrimp. We want a nice beginner reef setup. I’d also like a clownfish but, if it won’t work with the shrimp, we can leave it out. Any ideas for stocking? I’d also like some suggestions for a decent light that will work for this tank since it is pretty shallow.
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The clownfish will work fine with the shrimp. I might suggest doing a pair of Ocellaris or Percula clowns, and starting there - you can have a couple more fish, but it may be easier to start with just the clowns (hardy, usually captive-bred fish). Later down the road, I'd add a Citron Goby. I saw one in my LFS last week and fell in love! Unfortunately, I didn't have a QT tank for it, so I didn't get it.
That's another thing to consider. QT'ing in saltwater really isn't optional. If you mess up with a freshwater tank, it's usually easy enough to just treat in your display, as most medications are safe for the majority of animals. In saltwater, most medications are NOT safe for your display, so if a fish gets ich (or velvet, internal parasites, etc.) your best course of action is to remove ALL of your fish to a hospital tank and leave the tank fallow for the appropriate amount of time. It's a pain, but it's worth it to QT.
Soft corals and LPS would be a great place to start in terms of coral. As far as how to light it, I'm not sure what the best route would be for such a deep tank (front to back). Perhaps one of the smaller Kessil pendants would be a good bet? I'd recommend the Aquaknight, as that's what I use over my 10 gallon, but I'm not sure if it would cover the depth of the tank.
That's another thing to consider. QT'ing in saltwater really isn't optional. If you mess up with a freshwater tank, it's usually easy enough to just treat in your display, as most medications are safe for the majority of animals. In saltwater, most medications are NOT safe for your display, so if a fish gets ich (or velvet, internal parasites, etc.) your best course of action is to remove ALL of your fish to a hospital tank and leave the tank fallow for the appropriate amount of time. It's a pain, but it's worth it to QT.
Soft corals and LPS would be a great place to start in terms of coral. As far as how to light it, I'm not sure what the best route would be for such a deep tank (front to back). Perhaps one of the smaller Kessil pendants would be a good bet? I'd recommend the Aquaknight, as that's what I use over my 10 gallon, but I'm not sure if it would cover the depth of the tank.
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I actually just upgraded my pea puffers to a 20 long yesterday so I have an extra 10 gallon that I can use for QT. The citron gobies are adorable! Do they need deep substrate like the watchmen gobies? It is definitely an odd size tank. I bought it used and paid $30 for it. Come to find out, it’s a $400 tank! I’ll check into the Aquaknights! Thanks so much!
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Awesome! I was thinking I may have to get two lights for it since the tank is so deep. I was going to use it for a freshwater dwarf rainbow setup but I think it’ll look much better as salt.
I couldn’t believe it! I also bought a hang on back reef octopus skimmer from the guy for $20. Don’t even know if I need it but I just couldn’t pass up that deal lol
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I don't know if you'd be into the idea, but using two Aquaknights (one on each side of the tank) would probably provide enough coverage and light for around $130 total, last time I checked. Or, maybe look into two PAR 38 bulbs - they're cheap(ish), and would be extremely customizable in terms of spread and angles.
Sounds like he was getting out of the hobby and trying to sell stuff quick! A skimmer will definitely help keep maintenance down. I don't run skimmers on my tanks, but I would if I found them super cheap!
Ooo that’s a tough decision. The PAR38s are cheap but the aquaknights would probably have a sleeker look. With that kind of coverage, what types of corals could I keep?
It seemed like he might’ve been going to college and selling off his stuff. I’m not sure if I’m going to use the skimmer yet because this thing is beyond bulky lol but I’m sure it would make a difference. Honestly when I got the approval for a saltwater tank, I just started buying stuff that I knew I’d heard being used on saltwater tanks lol
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You could probably keep most soft corals and some lower light LPS. Maybe Monti Caps and similar SPS. With one Aquaknight at 40% on my ten gallon, I'm keeping softies, LPS, and SPS without too much issue. I've neglected the tank a bit lately, but in general, light has never been an issue.
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I have an AI prime HD light I love on a 20x20x20 inch cube and if you have a local reefing forum, you can sometimes pick them up used. I think I got mine for 150. It is currently growing SPS in the top half of the tank, LPS at the bottom half, and acans/zoas/ricordia near the sand bed. LPS and softies (zoas/ricorida/etc) would be great beginner corals and are quite colorful. SPS are fun too, though you may need to start dosing extra alkalinity and calcium.
For saltwater, you really need the following test kits along with the standards if you don't have them yet: Alkalinity(KH), phosphate, calcium and magnesium. I use Salifert for nitrate, Red Sea for alkalinity, calcium, and magnesium, and hanna for phosphate.
What are you planning to do for filtration? Does your tank have a sump? I saw you mentioned a hang on the back skimmer so I assume that you don't, but be careful with those. My skimmer wouldn't stop overflowing when I first got it.
Do you have an RO/DI system?
Are you planning on using live rock or starting with dry rock?
An auto top off is something you also may want to look into. Saltwater needs to be topped off with freshwater (preferably RO/DI) and in small tanks, you can have significant changes in salinity due to evaporation.
A clownfish pair would do well with a cleaner shrimp.
For saltwater, you really need the following test kits along with the standards if you don't have them yet: Alkalinity(KH), phosphate, calcium and magnesium. I use Salifert for nitrate, Red Sea for alkalinity, calcium, and magnesium, and hanna for phosphate.
What are you planning to do for filtration? Does your tank have a sump? I saw you mentioned a hang on the back skimmer so I assume that you don't, but be careful with those. My skimmer wouldn't stop overflowing when I first got it.
Do you have an RO/DI system?
Are you planning on using live rock or starting with dry rock?
An auto top off is something you also may want to look into. Saltwater needs to be topped off with freshwater (preferably RO/DI) and in small tanks, you can have significant changes in salinity due to evaporation.
A clownfish pair would do well with a cleaner shrimp.
I haven’t bought test kits yet but I definitely will be before getting too far into setup. I was thinking a canister filter maybe. I do like to overfilter my tanks a bit so it’ll probably be a decent size canister. I don’t really have a spot for a sump as this tank is on the top of a double stand so there’s two ten gallons under it. I do have a closet next to it that I might be able to rig up a sump in and have it hidden. I don’t have an RO/DI system (looking into one though) but I do have access to RODI water. I’m hoping to use live rock if I can find some fairly close. Not having an LFS other than petsmart and petco is an issue sometimes lol I don’t know if I’m going to go that high tech with it because I am home all the time and do have the time to test salinity levels and all that but, if it becomes a chore, I’ll definitely add an auto top off.
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I like the Red Sea and Salifert test kits. Hanna Checkers are nice, but are pricey.
Most people don't recommend canisters on saltwater tanks - they end up trapping a lot of gunk and being relatively high maintenance. All of my marine tanks (reef or FOWLR) are run with live rock and a powerhead for flow. You can add a HOB for space for chemical media, but I usually don't worry too much about it. In small tanks, large water changes are often more effective than carbon or purigen.
If you can't find any live rock, I highly recommend Reef Saver dry rock. Lots of my tanks use it, and if you order from Bulk Reef Supply, you have the option of requesting smaller or larger pieces, or general shapes. I ordered 40 lbs and got a lot of variety. It IS dry rock, and you don't get any hitchhikers, but it can be a great way to start a tank as long as you're okay with the relatively long break-in period.
I don't use ATO's, because I'm afraid the tank will overflow and flood my carpet, but as soon as I get a fish room with concrete floors I'll invest in them. For tanks under 30 gallons or so, they're extremely useful. Even my 40 breeder evaporates a LOT weekly.
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