135 gallons transformation

Dechi

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For many reasons, I had to shut down my reef tank and of course, I need fish in my life so I am going back to the fresh side (I was in it for 40 years+).

Here is the reef before it was tore down. I forgot to take pictures in white but at least I have a video.

I will be re-using most of my equipment and it’s going to be very practical. The tank is 110 gallons (48 inch wide x 24 inch deep) with a 50 gallons sump but about 135 gallons total with rocks and sand displacement.

I have 4 x saltwater AI Prime 16 HD that I will use with an adapted spectrum. Plants will only be anubias, java fern and moss so no need to go overkill. I’ll probably only use 2 of the lights, at around 30% white and a bit of color to make the fish pop.

I have an automated water change system (Kamoer X2SR) that brings water from my 32 gallons brute downstairs to my tank upstairs. I also have a 4-stage rodi system with a booster pump that brings rodi water into my ATO reservoir besides the sump. I will keep using it since it’s going to help keep TDS lower by not adding minerals when topping off.

I have a Kamoer x4 pro dosing pump that I will try to reroute downstairs to dose water conditioner into the brute after each WC, to dechlorinate the water. To fill the brute automatically, I just bought a Kamoer ATO one RO V2. I hooked the tubing to the water supply downstairs and there is a selenoid that will control the water output by reading 2 sensors (one to tell it to refill and a second one as security to prevent overflow).

WC will be 3 gallons morning and 3 gallons afternoon to start. If it is not enough (which I doubt since I am also topping off at least 5 gallons rodi per week) I have the capacity to increase up to 9 gallons per WC. The Kamoer ATO one automatically shuts off after 10 minutes, to prevent flooding and that’s my maximum output for that duration.

First picture is where I am with the tank now.


Today I bought some wood and rocks and I put the wood in a bin filled with water outside. I will be getting 80-100 lbs of pool filter sand soon.


I’m still debating the stocking but here is what I am thinking about right now :
1 x cichlid chocolate
1 x angel fish
6 x Pearl gouramis
8 or 10 Diamond tetras
1 x blue acara
8 orange corydoras

I bought some FritzZyme 7 to speed up the cycling and some ammonium chloride to feed the bacteria but I’ve never tried it so am cautious about it.

In any case, I won’t be rushing the addition of fish and they will go in one specie at a time. This way I can adjust numbers or change stocking if necessary.
 

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Wow, that was a major league marine set up. I'm looking forward to seeing what you can do with a freshwater community.
 

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  • #3
Wow, that was a major league marine set up. I'm looking forward to seeing what you can do with a freshwater community.

Thanks ! That will be my first time having bigger fish so I’m excited to see how it’s going to turn out. I’m hoping the fish will be happy in this setting.

I wanted to have a company come and do the aquascape but I lost so much money selling the reef… I’m going to do it myself and if down the line I feel I want a really professional look then maybe I’ll hire someone.
 
I think you'll get more satisfaction out of building the aquascape yourself.

I believe the secret to a great looking hardscape is just acquiring interesting looking rocks, wood & plants to begin with..

When you have awsome decor sometimes just randomly dropping it into the tank looks impressive. Lol
 
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I think you'll get more satisfaction out of building the aquascape yourself.

I believe the secret to a great looking hardscape is just acquiring interesting looking rocks, wood & plants to begin with..

When you have awsome decor sometimes just randomly dropping it into the tank looks impressive. Lol

It’s true. Let’s hope what I bought does the job…
 
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I’ve gotten as far as putting the sand in the tank for now. There is more of it than planned but it’s okay. I used a volume calculator and it said 80 lbs for 1.5 inch. I bought 3 bags of Stoney River natural color for 75 lbs total and it looks more like 2 inches.

Despite all my efforts, I couldn’t get the coralline completely off the overflow box. I hope it will dissolve after a few weeks. If not, so be it.

Wood is still soaking outside and I have everything on hand to do the aquascape and start the cycle. Except the plants but I will get them later. That will allow me to do the cycle with the lights off.
 

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Just be sure you got all the salt out as it will create havock if you keep softwater fishes.

If the water is very soft and acidic do not be surprise if you can run the lights at 10 to 15 %.

I usually run my fluval plant 3.0 below 30% (around 14 watts on a 29 which is 18 inches deep).
 
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  • #9
Just be sure you got all the salt out as it will create havock if you keep softwater fishes.
If there is anything left, it will be a very tiny quantity (I vaccuumed the tank and sump after it was dry and then rinsed it and towel dried it) . I’ll be doing a large WC after the cycle too so it should be okay.
 
I’ve gotten as far as putting the sand in the tank for now. There is more of it than planned but it’s okay. I used a volume calculator and it said 80 lbs for 1.5 inch. I bought 3 bags of Stoney River natural color for 75 lbs total and it looks more like 2 inches.

Despite all my efforts, I couldn’t get the coralline completely off the overflow box. I hope it will dissolve after a few weeks. If not, so be it.

Wood is still soaking outside and I have everything on hand to do the aquascape and start the cycle. Except the plants but I will get them later. That will allow me to do the cycle with the lights off.

Looks very good. Consider some slightly bigger pea gravel scattered across top in end. It’s little touches like that that take your scape good to exceptional.

3lbs of this
https://a.co/d/04Lxq2uM

3lbs of this for a little contrast.
https://a.co/d/0bp5yjHO

2lb of this, slightly bigger and slightly darker than base gravel.
https://a.co/d/0by9anSJ
 
Looks very good. Consider some slightly bigger pea gravel scattered across top in end. It’s little touches like that that take your scape good to exceptional.

3lbs of this
https://a.co/d/04Lxq2uM

3lbs of this for a little contrast.
https://a.co/d/0bp5yjHO

2lb of this, slightly bigger and slightly darker than base gravel.
https://a.co/d/0by9anSJ
Depends on stocking certainly most dwarf cichild would prefer finer substrate as well as most substrate spawners.
 

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I can see a moss wall or something similar growing on the overflow box in good time!

Eagerly awaiting updates on this massive build!
 
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  • #13
Looks very good. Consider some slightly bigger pea gravel scattered across top in end. It’s little touches like that that take your scape good to exceptional.

3lbs of this
https://a.co/d/04Lxq2uM

3lbs of this for a little contrast.
https://a.co/d/0bp5yjHO

2lb of this, slightly bigger and slightly darker than base gravel.
https://a.co/d/0by9anSJ

I have some of that and maybe I’ll add a little bit.

Depends on stocking certainly most dwarf cichild would prefer finer substrate as well as most substrate spawners.
That’s what I figure, for the cories and maybe Krobia they need fine sand. I’ll add a bit of definition but not too much. I’ts probably going to end up down in the sand with all the digging.

I can see a moss wall or something similar growing on the overflow box in good time!

Eagerly awaiting updates on this massive build!

That’s a brilliant idea and it’s definitely on my list now !
 
I have some of that and maybe I’ll add a little bit.


That’s what I figure, for the cories and maybe Krobia they need fine sand. I’ll add a bit of definition but not too much. I’ts probably going to end up down in the sand with all the digging.



That’s a brilliant idea and it’s definitely on my list now !
Wait - you are going to keep Krobia ? If you mean Krobia xinguensis let me warn you they have giant mouths - i have a group of 7 or so in a 120 and they will eat anything that will fit in their oversized mouth.

For a while i was raising frys for folks but you are in canada. They are relatively passive and easy going as long as their tank mate is not food.

Breed very easily - not sure i really like them and when i move i won't be keeping them - they are like oversized tanks with the mouth the size of an elephant. Definitely no cardinals and probalby no serpae with them - not sure if they would go after smaller cory. Did i mention they have GIANT mouths ?
 
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  • #15
Wait - you are going to keep Krobia ? If you mean Krobia xinguensis let me warn you they have giant mouths - i have a group of 7 or so in a 120 and they will eat anything that will fit in their oversized mouth.

For a while i was raising frys for folks but you are in canada. They are relatively passive and easy going as long as their tank mate is not food.

Breed very easily - not sure i really like them and when i move i won't be keeping them - they are like oversized tanks with the mouth the size of an elephant. Definitely no cardinals and probalby no serpae with them - not sure if they would go after smaller cory. Did i mention they have GIANT mouths ?

Ha Ha Ha ! Okay, I didn’t know it was THAT big !

Here is my fish list for now :
1 x chocolate cichlid
1 x Angel fish
1 x Krobia xingu ?
1 x blue acara
10-12 x diamond tetras
6-8 x pearl gouramis
8-10 orange corys

If the Krobia doesn’t go with them, what other medium size, colorful and relaxing fish could I use to sift the sand ?
 
The krobia won't really shift sand mine don't- they aren't cave diggers but they do spawn on the substrate. Kuhli loaches will shift sand if you get 30. It won't really shift sand per sey but they do sort of dig in a little and they are fascinating fishes:

Pseudohemiodon sp apithanos; i have 4 in my 500 - one of my favorite whiptails. The 'sp' are black and white the ones without the sp are more grey.
--
Another whiptail i deeply like are:
Loricaria simillima that like to sort of move in the sand - the other whiptails i have tend to go after the glass or wood for biofilm so i won't mention them - oh yea another one that like to dig into the substrate is
Planiloricaria cryptodon; i don't like them as much as the other two and they are meat eaters but they are nice fishes in their own way.
--
Assasin snails will dig int he sand - and i have a bunch of west african that dig large caves in the substrate but not sure i would mix them with your current stocking.
==
p. sp apithanos is one of my favorite if you have a large open area.

A couple of the whiptails i mentioned above that i own:

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tinylostwine thanks I’ll look into whiptails. I never heard of them. They could be a complement to the corys ?

And would the Krobia eat the Diamond tetras ? I was told the chocolate cichlid wouldn’t, so I figured the Krobia wouldn’t either.

The sand thickness was bothering me so I removed some (half a bucket). It looks a lot nicer to me this way.

Tomorrow might be the day I do the aquascape and start the cycle with Dr Tim’s ammonia and Fritzzyme7.
 
Here is my fish list for now :
1 x chocolate cichlid
1 x Angel fish
1 x Krobia xingu ?
1 x blue acara
10-12 x diamond tetras
6-8 x pearl gouramis
8-10 orange corys

Not to be a party pooper, but flagging a concern here.

I'm not sure 1 angelfish and tetras will do well with the other 3 cichlids.The tank is large enough for all the 3 to have their own territories. Will they become aggressive towards the slower/smaller fish, even if there are no breeding pairs?

In my experience lone angelfish tend to become very shy and will come out only if the other fish are not aggressive. Eventually they don't do well.
 
Not to be a party pooper, but flagging a concern here.

I'm not sure 1 angelfish and tetras will do well with the other 3 cichlids.The tank is large enough for all the 3 to have their own territories. Will they become aggressive towards the slower/smaller fish, even if there are no breeding pairs?

In my experience lone angelfish tend to become very shy and will come out only if the other fish are not aggressive. Eventually they don't do well.
The angel will not be an issue though it might get pushed around a bit if the some one large breeds. The chocolate are amazing passive and tolerant though of course there is limits when they have frys - the krobia tend to occupy space below the angelfish and the two species can easily co-exist - in my 120 i have 4 angels and 7 krobia. While the angels after 2 years have begun the typical angel fighting in a more serious way it is of course with angels and not with the krobia who want nothing to do with it and take to hiding in the plants (not out of fear but just to ignore the racket).
-
As for if the krobia would eat the diamond - i can't say for sure - certainly the if the krobia are adults and the diamond immature it is likely but i don't know if the diamond are large enough to avoid being eaten. I will say that it took the krobia less than 6 hours to lay waste to my full grown adult cardinals when i first got them and they will certainly go after anything they think they can fit in their mouth.

The acara with the krobia - well if they were larger groups might be an issue as both are low but as single fishes no. However and this is where we differ - i prefer groups (for those fishes that tolerate groups) rather than lots of single of different species. And the krobia is a fish that tolerates being in a large group even when breeding.

Also i would not mix the gourami (asian fish) with the others from south america AND i think overall you are over stocked.
 
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Also i would not mix the gourami (asian fish) with the others from south america AND i think overall you are over stocked.
I’m not one to enjoy overcrowded tanks. This is just on paper for now and fish will be added one group/specie at a time mostly. For sure I will adjust if needed.

I’ve scratched the chocolate for now so back to the board to start my list again. This is taking forever but I made the mistake once of getting fish that I didn’t enjoy and it won’t happen again, hopefully.
 
I doubt if the Krobia would eat adult diamond tetras as they are fairly large and quite deep bodied with high fins, unlike cardinals. However it sounds like for sure they would eat fry and small ones, and diamond tetras breed easily in the aquarium, its something quite nice to see, without the Krobia its possible that one or two might survive. especially if there is plenty of moss and other hiding places. Also I don't think Krobia are particularly colorful? Maybe keyhole cichlids would be nicer? Or instead of the blue Acara and Krobia what about a royal Acara, Aequidens diadema? - attractive, get pretty large but not as big as a chocolate cichlid? Probably still not safe with small fish though. I agree not to mix the gouramis with cichlids.
 

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Also I don't think Krobia are particularly colorful? Maybe keyhole cichlids would be nicer?
I’ll check that for the new list.

Or instead of the blue Acara and Krobia what about a royal Acara, Aequidens diadema? - attractive, get pretty large but not as big as a chocolate cichlid?
I could definitely build the tank around it if all criterias match. I saw some with awesome blue color and others more drab. Are the more colorful ones a subspecie ?


I agree not to mix the gouramis with cichlids.
Why ? As a principle or are there other reasons ? Would it be bad for the group ? I can’t have more than one tank so I’m trying to put the fish I like most together, when compatible of course.
 
I saw some with awesome blue color and others more drab. Are the more colorful ones a subspecie ?
I'm not sure, they do have a large distribution in Peru, Venezuela and Colombia, in both the Amazon and Orinoco systems, so I would not be surprised if there are some geographical variations in colour. However I suspect a lot has to do with condition and maturity, as well as substrate type. Their colors will probably look best over a fairly dark substrate with leaf litter and driftwood, whereas a bare light colored substrate could make them look washed out. They do still get quite big, but not as chunky as the chocolate cichlid. I probably would not recommend one together with keyhole cichlids, either or not both.
Why ? As a principle or are there other reasons ? Would it be bad for the group ?
You might have to ask others. For me on principle as I like to keep things as natural as possible, not necessarily a strict biotope, but at least the type of fish and habitat that could naturally occur together. I don't have much experience with gouramis so how they would actually get on if you did decide to do this I am not sure.
 
My understanding is royal acara stay low while of course chocolate will go high. 4 or 6 Laetacara of some species might be more to your liking. They are pretty passive more colourful then keyholes and readily breed if that is your thing. Instead of 8ish inches for royal acara they stay in the 2.5 to 4 inch range depending on sex and individual. Also have smaller mouths then krobia ;)
 
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  • #25
My understanding is royal acara stay low while of course chocolate will go high. 4 or 6 Laetacara of some species might be more to your liking. They are pretty passive more colourful then keyholes and readily breed if that is your thing. Instead of 8ish inches for royal acara they stay in the 2.5 to 4 inch range depending on sex and individual. Also have smaller mouths then krobia ;)
I want no breeding as it leads to territorial behaviors and aggression and I want 100% zenitude !

I really like the idea of the royal acara.
 
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I did the aquascape yesterday. I liked it at first but now I feel like trying something else. Maybe tomorrow.

Then I filled the aquarium but I was in for an unpleasant surprise. When I was done I noticed the water was sticky. There is no other word for it but sticky. I did a little research and it had to be those no name supposedly ceramic sticks I bought. They didn’t sink and they were light, not at all like ceramic. I had rinsed them but not enough I guess or maybe they are just plain unusable.

So I removed them and the other no name I bought as well, just to be safe. Now I had to empty the tank again and rinse it all. But there are two closed compartments in my system : the main overflow section in the sump and the overflow box itself. I did it with a turkey baster when emptying the salt water and it took almost 2 hours. So I went and bought a wet/dry shop vac and without knowing I bought a really powerful one. It took less than 2 minutes to empty.

Then I toweled dry the sump and partly refilled the tank and emptied again with the shop vac to clean the sand. I did that twice. After all that the water in the sand was still a bit sticky but a lot less. So today I refilled the whole thing, started my pump and aimed a power head at the surface to help mix everything better. I also cleaned my media reactor and put a bag of Seachem Matrix Carbon in it, to help get rid of whatever this stickiness is.

To redo the aquascape, I’ll empty the tank again and also do a big WC after cycling so it should all be gone before any fish gets in the tank. That was a lot of work for me. I was so mad about buying this . I’ll return it and to replace it I got 2 x 5 L of Fluval Bio-FX.


NEW STOCKING LIST
Finally, I have been working on my fish list and I am excited about the results. Let me know what you think of it.

1 x aequidens diadema (royal acara)
12 x lemon tetras
12 x diamond tetras
1 x blue acara (or electric)
8 x orange Venezuelan Cories

Maybe another one, undetermined for now
 

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What a pain, I wonder what in earth the stickiness was?

I think the stocking list looks good now. I would add the tetras first. Keep us posted as you set things up.
 
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  • #28
What a pain, I wonder what in earth the stickiness was?
AI says some kind of product that leaks in cheap biomedia because they aren’t processed the right way. Apparently not harmful per say but it can change the surface tension in the water, making it harder for fish to breathe.

No idea if it’s true or not. You never know with Ai…

For sure I’ll start with the tetras. Probably the lemon.
 
AI says some kind of product that leaks in cheap biomedia because they aren’t processed the right way. Apparently not harmful per say but it can change the surface tension in the water, making it harder for fish to breathe.

No idea if it’s true or not. You never know with Ai…

For sure I’ll start with the tetras. Probably the lemon.
And get both the cichlids at the same time, so that one doesn’t decide to own the whole tank… Have plenty of structure with line of sight breaks. I like the “real” blue acara better than the electric blue ones, but I have read that the EBAs are generally less aggressive, which might be a good thing. Whichever, the acaras will be a nice combination with the tetras you chose.
 
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And get both the cichlids at the same time, so that one doesn’t decide to own the whole tank…
Okay, will do !

I like the “real” blue acara better than the electric blue ones, but I have read that the EBAs are generally less aggressive, which might be a good thing.
Noted, thanks !

Oh, I dropped the angelfish from my list by mistake but I still want it !
 
Okay, will do !


Noted, thanks !

Oh, I dropped the angelfish from my list by mistake but I still want it !
You still should be able to have the angelfish as your tank is quite tall and it will occupy the higher tank levels.
 

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I redid the aquascape and I like it better ! I think it’s going to be it. I also replaced the water in my WC bin and I will start testing the WC soon, before I start cycling. I want the carbon in the reactor to work another 24-48 hours, just to be safe.
 

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I redid the aquascape and I like it better ! I think it’s going to be it. I also replaced the water in my WC bin and I will start testing the WC soon, before I start cycling. I want the carbon in the reactor to work another 24-48 hours, just to be safe.
It looks good, I would be inclined to also have some bigger hardscape (thicker wood pieces or larger rocks) near the bottom, just so the two acaras don't have to see each other all the time and can establish their own demarcated patches. Of course when you have the plants this will help as well, for example a piece of driftwood lying down with a large fern attached could provide an effective break in lines of sight. Looks great for the angelfish. I think you said you would have epiphytes on the wood? It would also be possible to have some robust rooted plants like Amazon swords or Vallisneria,or a Nymphaea if you want. Eventually some leaf litter would be a nice addition.
 
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  • #34
I would be inclined to also have some bigger hardscape (thicker wood pieces or larger rocks) near the bottom, just so the two acaras don't have to see each other all the time and can establish their own demarcated patches.
Good point. I see what I can do. I have one piece or thick wood left and one piece of spider wood. No more rocks of that color/style though.

Yes, I am going to add some epiphytes on the wood. Maybe minimal plants to break line of sight. Where do you get leaf litter ?

What type of cuc would work with this stocking ? Only nerites or others ?
 
Where do you get leaf litter ?
You can either collect it from known safe trees (I know oak and alder are OK, but check this, where I am we get different variety of trees, I am sure there are posts abut it on this site). Make sure no pesticides or herbicides have been applied nearby and only use completely dead leaves that have fallen naturally from the tree.

Or you can buy Catappa (Indian almond) leaves and other botanicals from Amazon, or aquarium stores. They do stain the water with tannins, if you don't like that you can use carbon or purigen but tannins are actually good for fish and give a natural look to the aquarium, and I think some fish colours show up better in slightly dark water. You do have to replace the leaves periodically.

What type of cuc would work with this stocking ?
I am not sure if you actually need anything, other than a siphon and algae scraper! I haven't ever kept nerites as my water is extremely soft, but ramshorn snails do well in my planted tanks. But not in the larger cichlids tanks, I am pretty sure that the acaras will eat them. You are getting Corydoras, which should help to clean up any left over food. For algae you could try a pleco. Many people say bristlenose plecos are good algae eaters, but I have one in my big tank and it never ever cleans the glass. In another tank I have a blue phantom pleco that I have seen feeding on the glass quite often and I have never had to clean the front glass of that tank since I changed over the stocking several months ago. Its quite a young pleco still so I don't know if it will continue to eat algae. Maybe you could research any other pleco that might work, but bear in mind that they can produce a lot of waste, so might actually contribute to any algae issues, rather than helping.

I would definitely recommend floating plants, they provide shade and take up nutrients so helping to keep algae at bay, fish like them as I believe the roots and shade help them feel more secure (tetras etc.). If flow into the tank is an issue you can corral floating plants initially using a piece of airline tubing with rubber suckers on each end that will stick to the sides of the tank keeping them in one place. I have found that after a while as they become established this is no longer necessary. I find water lettuce grows quickly, is highly effective at removing nitrogen and is easy to remove when it covers too much of the surface. There are other options as well though.
 
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  • #36
I am not sure if you actually need anything, other than a siphon and algae scraper! I
Siphoning will be hard with this stupid sand but algae scrapers, yeah, I have a collection…

I would definitely recommend floating plants, they provide shade and take up nutrients so helping to keep algae at bay, fish like them as I believe the roots and shade help them feel more secure (tetras etc.).
They are part of the plan. My initial idea was a pothos or similar (Lily something) above the tank, floating plants on the surface and epiphytes.

I tried making 2 separate zones. Is that better ? That’s all I had on hand.
 

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It will help a bit, if you can fix a plant to it it will be better.

Something I forgot to say before, you absolutely can siphon sand without disturbing it, just hover with the hose pipe just above the sand and most of the mulm gets sucked up.
 
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  • #38
It will help a bit, if you can fix a plant to it it will be better.
Plants to come next week. Maybe I’ll remove it if the plants do the job. I wasn’t planning on using. I’ll try to find another medium piece of ghost wood. It looks very nice with the lights on.
 
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  • #39
The cycle started today. I have about 2.5 ppm ammonia, thanks to Dr Tim. I added 1.6 l of Fritzzyme7 to speed up the cycle. We’ll see how this goes. I’ll test tomorrow after 24 hours.
 
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  • #40
22 hours later, the PH is about 1.9 ppm. It was probably around 2.3-2.5 ppm yesterday.

It seems to have gone down a bit, but putting fish in the tank would mean death. I haven’t tested nitrites or nitrates, Maybe tomorrow.

eta : this is ammonia, not PH. Thanks TClare !
 
I’m confused, is this really a pH reading? Ph isn’t measured in ppm and those values for pH are very strange?
 

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  • #42
I’m confused, is this really a pH reading? Ph isn’t measured in ppm and those values for pH are very strange?

Sorry, this is ammonia, not PH. My PH is around 6.8-7.0 usually but I haven’t measured it.
 
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  • #44
I tested ammonia today and it hasn’t budged from yesterday at around 1.9 ppm. I’ll let it do its thing and test in 3-4 days.
 
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  • #45
I went to the my LFS and bought one more medium piece of ghost wood to go on the right side, and 10-12 more rocks to add more depth and hiding places. I’m letting the wood sink (it should take 6-7 days) and then I’ll finish the scape and add plants.
 
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  • #46
Nitrates seem to be around 2-3 ppm so things are moving. There is lots of tannins in the water and I don’t like it one bit. I bought Purigen and I am using it in my media reactor to get rid of it.

The picture isn’t doing it justice. Water is a lot darker than that.
 

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I like the tannins, but they are not difficult to eliminate if you don't like the look.
 
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  • #49
I like the tannins, but they are not difficult to eliminate if you don't like the look.
With Purigen or other ?

I would just leave the tannin it will dilute pretty quickly as you do water changes and most fishes love it.
Nah, I can’t. There is so much of it, it’s clouding the water. I won’t enjoy the tank if I leave it.
 

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