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HI FishLore,
After years of battling multiple different species of algae and beating it successfully, I have a pretty simplified guide now to having algae free planted tanks.
I can give more in depth reasoning if requested, but here's a general guide to having an algae free planted tank.
Cause of Algae: Ammonia and CO2
All algae species are originally present in the water through spores. The adult algae is what we actually are able to see in our aquariums and this is what we strive to get rid of. An abundance of ammonia and lack of CO2 is a perfect combination that allows for spores to become adult algae.
Algae is NOT caused by "excess" nitrates and phosphates. Otherwise I would have an algae farm when I dose 60ppm of nitrate per week and dose 15ppm phosphate per week. Algae is caused by organic decay (produces ammonia) and an insufficient amount or fluctuation in CO2.
What causes organic decay? Unhealthy or transitioning plants that are lacking sufficient nutrients and/or are shedding their emersed growth. As a result of these conditions, the plants release ammonia as they decay and die.
What causes an insufficient amount of CO2 or fluctuations? A lack of CO2 injection or the use of DIY CO2.
Note: I am not stating that light "causes" algae. This is because aquatic plants can be grown in the strongest source of light (direct sunlight) without algae, so it goes to show that if you have high enough CO2 and fertilizer levels, you won't have an issue with algae even with super strong light sources.
Algae Treatment and Cure:
The first treatment is simply manual removal. I do not condone the use of algaecides unless it is truly the last option or the issues in the tank have been fixed but the adult algae needs to be removed. Algaecides like hydrogen peroxide and excel when used in high quantities can pose an issue for the beneficial bacteria colonies in the tank.
The second treatment option is the use of a UV sterilizer. This is really to be used after the algae has been manually removed or in the case of green water. The UV sterilizer will kill the algal spores or adult algae floating in the water column.
Here's the cure for most algaes:
Start fertilizing your aquariums with a complete formulation of nutrients including nitrogen, phosphate, potassium, iron, magnesium, calcium, and the rest of the trace elements (zinc, boron, molybdenum, etc). Thrive by NilocG is a great option for beginners and dry fertilizers are a better option for the more advanced aquarists or those with large aquariums.
Inject CO2 into the water. If you're already doing this and still have algae issues, your CO2 levels aren't high enough. Disregard your drop checker or your pH/kH tests and just watch your livestock. Bump the CO2 high enough until the point that your fish become slightly stressed and start to gasp at the surface for air. Then lower it just a tad down. Lower it just slightly so that the fish return to their normal state, but the CO2 levels aren't lowered significantly. This threshold CO2 level between stress and no stress is where you want the CO2 level to be at permanently. This level is the perfect concentration of around 20-30ppm CO2 which is ideal for aquatic plant growth.
Increase your filtration. Over filtration is often better than under filtration. Try to use established filter media if you have any. Increased filtration equates to less ammonia and allows for a larger margin of error in the aquarium.
For those who do NOT want to start CO2 injection:
Your journey to an algae free tank just got 10x more difficult. Lowtech tanks are often famed for being "low maintenance" but that is anything but the truth. Having an algae free lowtech tank requires optimal and fragile balance. Not saying it isn't possible but it is way more difficult than it leads on to be. In order to have an algae free lowtech tank, do a split photoperiod and fertilize sufficiently. Keep the photoperiod at around 8-9 hours and split it 50/50 with a 2 or 3 hour rest period in between. Thrive is perfect for lowtech tanks. Experiment with lighting levels. Some lights are straight up way too powerful for a lowtech tank. Too much light without enough CO2 and fertilizer is asking for an algae disaster. Get a high quality 6500K light for a lowtech aquarium. 6500K CFL grow bulbs often are great for lowtech aquariums because they aren't too powerful, they're cheap, and they last quite long. Make you sure you keep up with fertilization and filtration.
Pressurized CO2 does not have to be complicated or expensive. It is very easy to use and makes a HUGE difference.
Here are is a specific list of algae I've encountered (ranked from easiest first to most difficult last) and how I got rid of them:
1) Diatoms:
Diatoms are simply caused by new tanks. A lack of sufficiently established media and high light often paired with no ferts or CO2 will cause diatoms. Diatoms are also common in tanks with sand although there has been compelling evidence as well that the silicates in the sand do not trigger diatom explosions. The cure to diatoms is simply to wait it out. Let your filter media become more established and keep fertilizing your plants sufficiently. Keep up with water changes and within a few weeks or days, the diatoms will be gone.
2) Green Water Algae:
If you notice your water starting to get cloudy or developing a green tint, act immediately as this is green water algae. This is a free floating algae that makes the water a dark green if not addressed immediately. It is often caused by excess ammonia in the water due to plants decaying and/or overfeeding food. Large water changes, increasing filtration, and adding UV sterilization is the best way to get rid of this algae. Adding UV sterilizers are EXTREMELY effective and it is the only way I've quickly gotten rid of this algae without having to perform multiple large water changes over the course of many weeks.
3) Slimy Filamentous Hair Algae:
This is the most primal sort of hair algae. It is caused by excessive ammonia in the water. To cure this, manually remove it and then increase filtration and flow. Also increase fertilization and CO2 to be on the safe side as well. This is actually very easy to get rid of and often disappears within days of fixing the necessary issues.
4) Green Spot Algae:
Getting rid of this algae is very easy. It is usually due to a lack of CO2 and phosphates. Simply increase phosphate dosing to a healthy 5ppm per dose and if that doesn't work within a few weeks, increase the CO2 as well. The only reason why this can be slightly difficult is that it doesn't go away within days or hours like some of the other algae, and can be a bit persistent.
5) Black Beard Algae and Staghorn:
This algae is often notorious for getting rid of, but that is often because treatment is often attempted incorrectly. Most people blast this algae with excel and hydrogen peroxide but it will come back because the root issue hasn't been addressed. This algae is due only to fluctuating and low CO2 levels. Very easy to fix. Simply fix your CO2 levels (increase it or get a pressurized system) and the algae will turn red with hours and disappear within days. This treatment works for both staghorn and BBA. If you have BBA, you most likely also have staghorn algae and vice versa. The two show up when there isn't enough CO2 or fluctuating levels.
6) Green Hair Algae:
The good old hair algae. It isn't coarse, but it isn't exactly soft to the touch either. It literally looks and feels like hair. This algae is the culmination of everything out of balance in the tank and it is difficult to pinpoint exactly what caused unlike BBA and staghorn algae. The best thing to do with this algae is to remove as much as you can manually and then upgrade or clean the filters, increase CO2. Keep up with water changes and eventually this algae will go away. Once it goes away, it generally doesn't come back as long as good conditions are maintained.
7) Cladophora:
This is a very difficult algae to eradicate, but not impossible. It is caused by a lack of CO2, but it tends to be very hardy unlike BBA and staghorn algae. Manual removal is often best and then the increase CO2 should kill the remaining algae.
8) Spirogyra:
This is by far THE WORST algae I've ever dealt with. Even after increasing filtration, increasing CO2, and really dialing in on my fertilization regimen, I still battled this algae for a long time. The problem with it wasn't that it was growing super thick and suffocating plants, but that it's growth was so wispy and sticky that it was definitely visibly tangled in the plant, but it was impossible to try and remove. Spirogyra often doesn't grow thick and only establishes itself in tanks that have been set up for a long time. This is likely the last type of algae your tank will experience before it is truly algae free. Even after fixing everything, it may still persist, just little strands tangled up in the plants. It won't grow too much more, but it will be there. So what's the cure here? Time and patience. It is a long lived algae that is very persistent. But if conditions have really been made better, the algae will eventually disappear and stop growing. It takes a LONG time though.
I hope this guide helps you if you're struggling with algae. If you'd like more information or any of my scientific reasoning, please feel free to let me know.
After years of battling multiple different species of algae and beating it successfully, I have a pretty simplified guide now to having algae free planted tanks.
I can give more in depth reasoning if requested, but here's a general guide to having an algae free planted tank.
Cause of Algae: Ammonia and CO2
All algae species are originally present in the water through spores. The adult algae is what we actually are able to see in our aquariums and this is what we strive to get rid of. An abundance of ammonia and lack of CO2 is a perfect combination that allows for spores to become adult algae.
Algae is NOT caused by "excess" nitrates and phosphates. Otherwise I would have an algae farm when I dose 60ppm of nitrate per week and dose 15ppm phosphate per week. Algae is caused by organic decay (produces ammonia) and an insufficient amount or fluctuation in CO2.
What causes organic decay? Unhealthy or transitioning plants that are lacking sufficient nutrients and/or are shedding their emersed growth. As a result of these conditions, the plants release ammonia as they decay and die.
What causes an insufficient amount of CO2 or fluctuations? A lack of CO2 injection or the use of DIY CO2.
Note: I am not stating that light "causes" algae. This is because aquatic plants can be grown in the strongest source of light (direct sunlight) without algae, so it goes to show that if you have high enough CO2 and fertilizer levels, you won't have an issue with algae even with super strong light sources.
Algae Treatment and Cure:
The first treatment is simply manual removal. I do not condone the use of algaecides unless it is truly the last option or the issues in the tank have been fixed but the adult algae needs to be removed. Algaecides like hydrogen peroxide and excel when used in high quantities can pose an issue for the beneficial bacteria colonies in the tank.
The second treatment option is the use of a UV sterilizer. This is really to be used after the algae has been manually removed or in the case of green water. The UV sterilizer will kill the algal spores or adult algae floating in the water column.
Here's the cure for most algaes:
Start fertilizing your aquariums with a complete formulation of nutrients including nitrogen, phosphate, potassium, iron, magnesium, calcium, and the rest of the trace elements (zinc, boron, molybdenum, etc). Thrive by NilocG is a great option for beginners and dry fertilizers are a better option for the more advanced aquarists or those with large aquariums.
Inject CO2 into the water. If you're already doing this and still have algae issues, your CO2 levels aren't high enough. Disregard your drop checker or your pH/kH tests and just watch your livestock. Bump the CO2 high enough until the point that your fish become slightly stressed and start to gasp at the surface for air. Then lower it just a tad down. Lower it just slightly so that the fish return to their normal state, but the CO2 levels aren't lowered significantly. This threshold CO2 level between stress and no stress is where you want the CO2 level to be at permanently. This level is the perfect concentration of around 20-30ppm CO2 which is ideal for aquatic plant growth.
Increase your filtration. Over filtration is often better than under filtration. Try to use established filter media if you have any. Increased filtration equates to less ammonia and allows for a larger margin of error in the aquarium.
For those who do NOT want to start CO2 injection:
Your journey to an algae free tank just got 10x more difficult. Lowtech tanks are often famed for being "low maintenance" but that is anything but the truth. Having an algae free lowtech tank requires optimal and fragile balance. Not saying it isn't possible but it is way more difficult than it leads on to be. In order to have an algae free lowtech tank, do a split photoperiod and fertilize sufficiently. Keep the photoperiod at around 8-9 hours and split it 50/50 with a 2 or 3 hour rest period in between. Thrive is perfect for lowtech tanks. Experiment with lighting levels. Some lights are straight up way too powerful for a lowtech tank. Too much light without enough CO2 and fertilizer is asking for an algae disaster. Get a high quality 6500K light for a lowtech aquarium. 6500K CFL grow bulbs often are great for lowtech aquariums because they aren't too powerful, they're cheap, and they last quite long. Make you sure you keep up with fertilization and filtration.
Pressurized CO2 does not have to be complicated or expensive. It is very easy to use and makes a HUGE difference.
Here are is a specific list of algae I've encountered (ranked from easiest first to most difficult last) and how I got rid of them:
1) Diatoms:
Diatoms are simply caused by new tanks. A lack of sufficiently established media and high light often paired with no ferts or CO2 will cause diatoms. Diatoms are also common in tanks with sand although there has been compelling evidence as well that the silicates in the sand do not trigger diatom explosions. The cure to diatoms is simply to wait it out. Let your filter media become more established and keep fertilizing your plants sufficiently. Keep up with water changes and within a few weeks or days, the diatoms will be gone.
2) Green Water Algae:
If you notice your water starting to get cloudy or developing a green tint, act immediately as this is green water algae. This is a free floating algae that makes the water a dark green if not addressed immediately. It is often caused by excess ammonia in the water due to plants decaying and/or overfeeding food. Large water changes, increasing filtration, and adding UV sterilization is the best way to get rid of this algae. Adding UV sterilizers are EXTREMELY effective and it is the only way I've quickly gotten rid of this algae without having to perform multiple large water changes over the course of many weeks.
3) Slimy Filamentous Hair Algae:
This is the most primal sort of hair algae. It is caused by excessive ammonia in the water. To cure this, manually remove it and then increase filtration and flow. Also increase fertilization and CO2 to be on the safe side as well. This is actually very easy to get rid of and often disappears within days of fixing the necessary issues.
4) Green Spot Algae:
Getting rid of this algae is very easy. It is usually due to a lack of CO2 and phosphates. Simply increase phosphate dosing to a healthy 5ppm per dose and if that doesn't work within a few weeks, increase the CO2 as well. The only reason why this can be slightly difficult is that it doesn't go away within days or hours like some of the other algae, and can be a bit persistent.
5) Black Beard Algae and Staghorn:
This algae is often notorious for getting rid of, but that is often because treatment is often attempted incorrectly. Most people blast this algae with excel and hydrogen peroxide but it will come back because the root issue hasn't been addressed. This algae is due only to fluctuating and low CO2 levels. Very easy to fix. Simply fix your CO2 levels (increase it or get a pressurized system) and the algae will turn red with hours and disappear within days. This treatment works for both staghorn and BBA. If you have BBA, you most likely also have staghorn algae and vice versa. The two show up when there isn't enough CO2 or fluctuating levels.
6) Green Hair Algae:
The good old hair algae. It isn't coarse, but it isn't exactly soft to the touch either. It literally looks and feels like hair. This algae is the culmination of everything out of balance in the tank and it is difficult to pinpoint exactly what caused unlike BBA and staghorn algae. The best thing to do with this algae is to remove as much as you can manually and then upgrade or clean the filters, increase CO2. Keep up with water changes and eventually this algae will go away. Once it goes away, it generally doesn't come back as long as good conditions are maintained.
7) Cladophora:
This is a very difficult algae to eradicate, but not impossible. It is caused by a lack of CO2, but it tends to be very hardy unlike BBA and staghorn algae. Manual removal is often best and then the increase CO2 should kill the remaining algae.
8) Spirogyra:
This is by far THE WORST algae I've ever dealt with. Even after increasing filtration, increasing CO2, and really dialing in on my fertilization regimen, I still battled this algae for a long time. The problem with it wasn't that it was growing super thick and suffocating plants, but that it's growth was so wispy and sticky that it was definitely visibly tangled in the plant, but it was impossible to try and remove. Spirogyra often doesn't grow thick and only establishes itself in tanks that have been set up for a long time. This is likely the last type of algae your tank will experience before it is truly algae free. Even after fixing everything, it may still persist, just little strands tangled up in the plants. It won't grow too much more, but it will be there. So what's the cure here? Time and patience. It is a long lived algae that is very persistent. But if conditions have really been made better, the algae will eventually disappear and stop growing. It takes a LONG time though.
I hope this guide helps you if you're struggling with algae. If you'd like more information or any of my scientific reasoning, please feel free to let me know.
