Psa: Algae Management In The Planted Aquarium

I don't think my stock would like the halved amount of space to swim in

I don't think they'd like the ammonia spike from tossing in half a foot of leaves at once either
To be fair we also have a much smaller body of water, so CO2 saturation should be achieved easier than in an actual pond so you shouldn't need a foot of litter in a 1.5 foot tank. I hope.

 

nikm128 Was the water in your cleaning bucket purple? Or do you see actual purple algae? I once had purple algae and it was the water in the cleaning bucket. It was after an algae or bacteria (not sure) die off. So makes me think it's either dead algae spores or another algae/bacteria outcompeting like you said. It didn't take long to get rid of it with water changes Kind of curious though if anyone knows for sure!

Tx Vishaquatics (Koiman) for your help. The water fert I'm using is Profito Easy Life. I should get a phosphate test for sure. I will say my Manicipality uses phosphates to raise pH. Is it the sane form? My pH stays at 7.4 despite my KH and GH only bring 3 degrees in that tank. So I'm wondering if I already have phosphates, and possibly too much? Can too much phosphate cause diatoms and green spot? I always thought green spot was due to higher nitrates. Unless it's a balance between the two I need? In any case, I'm going to get a phosphate test, thank you!

Also considering co2, but because I have so many tanks and move fish often, I'm afraid I'll need co2 on all my tanks or I won't be happy anymore with my other tanks. My other tanks are fully dirted. Thoughts?

Yes, it is actual purple algae on the glass

Fish and plants do produce CO2 (plants at night like you mentioned), but it’s not nearly in high enough concentrations to actually make a difference. The average tank only has around 2-3ppm of CO2 granted there’s no injection. The purpose of adding CO2 into a tank is to allow the plants to really thrive and grow. Once the plants are thriving, they will produce allelopathic chemicals which kill algal growth. CO2 levels optimally need to be 30ppm or in the ballpark. Sometimes even higher

Interesting that I've never had it before then, I guess for now I'll just have to settle on wiping it off until I can get a CO2 setup

 

You know, I've thought about it some more, but something still does not add up. If allelopathy is the reason why in a planted aquarium algae is kept at bay, then how about non-planted bodies of water? Why are plantless ponds (with e.g. pebbles on the floor) not overrun with algae?

 

You know, I've thought about it some more, but something still does not add up. If allelopathy is the reason why in a planted aquarium algae is kept at bay, then how about non-planted bodies of water? Why are plantless ponds (with e.g. pebbles on the floor) not overrun with algae?

Do you mean home ponds or like in the ground thousands of gallons of water ponds fed by rainwater? If you mean the latter, I'm not sure I've ever seen them be very clear. They are usually gunky looking with tons of suspended stuff in the water. If you mean home ponds, I know a lot of them run powerful UV and they tend to be stocked with things that eat algae and plants anyway.

 

Do you mean home ponds or like in the ground thousands of gallons of water ponds fed by rainwater? If you mean the latter, I'm not sure I've ever seen them be very clear. They are usually gunky looking with tons of suspended stuff in the water. If you mean home ponds, I know a lot of them run powerful UV and they tend to be stocked with things that eat algae and plants anyway.

I'm talking about originally manmade ponds that are several hundreds of years old and have been 'overrun by nature' if that makes sense. There are quite a lot of them near me. Some of them are heavily planted, but others not at all (instead the floor is covered with leaf litter or stones, depending on if there are trees nearby). Both types can have clear or murky water, but algae growth does not really seem to occur in them, with the exception of cyano when we have heat waves in the summer. Some are large like you describe but I know of at least two that shouldn't be more than a few hundred to a thousand gallons. They are choked with amphibians and insect life in summer but seem pretty much devoid in early spring and winter (not really too many inverts either, water is super soft).
I do concur with the theory that the microlife inside may be eating all the algae that form. Hmmm.

 

I'm talking about originally manmade ponds that are several hundreds of years old and have been 'overrun by nature' if that makes sense. There are quite a lot of them near me. Some of them are heavily planted, but others not at all (instead the floor is covered with leaf litter or stones, depending on if there are trees nearby). Both types can have clear or murky water, but algae growth does not really seem to occur in them, with the exception of cyano when we have heat waves in the summer. Some are large like you describe but I know of at least two that shouldn't be more than a few hundred to a thousand gallons. They are choked with amphibians and insect life in summer but seem pretty much devoid in early spring and winter (not really too many inverts either, water is super soft).
I do concur with the theory that the microlife inside may be eating all the algae that form. Hmmm.

Likely the algae is being eaten. In the colder months, algae growth is way less and sometimes nonexistent if the water freezes over. In the warmer months, as you said, the pond is flourishing with life. Tadpoles and some aquatic insects feed primarily on algae and decaying matter, but especially algae. I remember watching a video online about someone who uses tadpoles as an algae control in their outdoor pond. I guess if you have enough, it would be effective.

 

You know, I've thought about it some more, but something still does not add up. If allelopathy is the reason why in a planted aquarium algae is kept at bay, then how about non-planted bodies of water? Why are plantless ponds (with e.g. pebbles on the floor) not overrun with algae?

This is my pond right now in direct sunlight and now my wetland filter has plants I have zero algae all summer. I can attest that it is fact a wetland filter which is gravel and plants with water fed from bottom up your water will always be crystal clear. Mine has a waterfall stump and moss so I have tannins which I like.

 

Vishaquatics (Koiman) I have not injected or used any form of CO2 in my tanks. Is this something I should begin doing? What do you suggest? Petco has the CO diffusers you hook up to an airline, as well as a miniature "tank" which I'm assuming hooks up to something as well.

 

Vishaquatics (Koiman) I have not injected or used any form of CO2 in my tanks. Is this something I should begin doing? What do you suggest? Petco has the CO diffusers you hook up to an airline, as well as a miniature "tank" which I'm assuming hooks up to something as well.

You are much better off avoiding those kits unless you have 5 gal or less tanks. At which point it seems like a waste unless you are going for a specific art form for a contest.

 

Vishaquatics (Koiman) I have not injected or used any form of CO2 in my tanks. Is this something I should begin doing? What do you suggest? Petco has the CO diffusers you hook up to an airline, as well as a miniature "tank" which I'm assuming hooks up to something as well.

I recommend CO2 systems for everyone, but not the kits since they’re expensive and don’t last long. My own setups are under $150. If you’re interested in knowing the parts, feel free to let me know

 

Greenspot algae is normally caused by low phosphates, but can also be caused by a low amount of CO2. Greenspot algae can be one of the harder algaes to fight off. In my shallow tanks that receive an absurd amount of direct sunlight, I used to have trouble keeping the GSA away even when there was no other algae. I couldn’t get my CO2 levels high enough via injection so I simply added a shade cloth to cut down on light and the GSA went away. Now, that’s not normally the case for most indoor tanks since the lighting from LEDs and fluorescents are nowhere close to the suns output.

My go to for getting rid of GSA in indoor tanks is to up phosphate dosing (note that phosphate tests are not very accurate) and to increase CO2.

If you do choose to do CO2 on multiple tanks, there are regulators where one gas tank can inject many tanks. They have some GLA ones which can do up to 5 or so tanks but they’re very expensive

Aside are there any issues related to dosing with phosphates? Do you suggest dosing without the phosphate test kit? I was just reading that the kits only test part of the phosphates.. organic. Should I waste my money getting a kit? I have one tank that is now growing GSA on the crypts, and so far I've use window screening between the LED to cut down on light that is usually on for 10 hrs. I have no problem in the other tanks that use LED's that are not as bright. I will try your split with 3 hr rest.

I'm getting the urge to try a C02 tank, but worry about having to monitor it if I'm ever not around or have to be away. Thanks for this great post!

 

Aside are there any issues related to dosing with phosphates? Do you suggest dosing without the phosphate test kit? I was just reading that the kits only test part of the phosphates.. organic. Should I waste my money getting a kit? I have one tank that is now growing GSA on the crypts, and so far I've use window screening between the LED to cut down on light that is usually on for 10 hrs. I have no problem in the other tanks that use LED's that are not as bright. I will try your split with 3 hr rest.

I'm getting the urge to try a C02 tank, but worry about having to monitor it if I'm ever not around or have to be away. Thanks for this great post!

I don't have a phosphate test kit and I've never owned one because of the bad rep they've gotten. There's no issue with dosing a ton of phosphates unless you really really overdose. For everyone with lowtech tanks, 3ppm once per week should be plenty. For hightech people, 10ppm per week is good. I go above because I have a ton of light and CO2 so the nutrient demand is higher.

GSA indicates a lack of CO2 and phosphates, but if you don't want to inject CO2, you could indirectly lower the demand for more CO2 by either lowering the intensity of the light or the duration of the photoperiod. I think doing a split like you are planning to do might help with that. That might be why your tanks with less powerful LEDs don't have GSA on the crypts. Crypts and other slow growers tend to be notorious for getting GSA on their leaves.

I don't check my CO2 often and it's fine to be left unmonitored as long as you have a timer on the CO2 solenoid and the lights. If you can automate your lighting and CO2 on a timer, it's a set and forget type setup

 

I don't have a phosphate test kit and I've never owned one because of the bad rep they've gotten. There's no issue with dosing a ton of phosphates unless you really really overdose. For everyone with lowtech tanks, 3ppm once per week should be plenty. For hightech people, 10ppm per week is good. I go above because I have a ton of light and CO2 so the nutrient demand is higher.

GSA indicates a lack of CO2 and phosphates, but if you don't want to inject CO2, you could indirectly lower the demand for more CO2 by either lowering the intensity of the light or the duration of the photoperiod. I think doing a split like you are planning to do might help with that. That might be why your tanks with less powerful LEDs don't have GSA on the crypts. Crypts and other slow growers tend to be notorious for getting GSA on their leaves.

I don't check my CO2 often and it's fine to be left unmonitored as long as you have a timer on the CO2 solenoid and the lights. If you can automate your lighting and CO2 on a timer, it's a set and forget type setup

Much appreciation Vishaquatics.

 

I recommend CO2 systems for everyone, but not the kits since they’re expensive and don’t last long. My own setups are under $150. If you’re interested in knowing the parts, feel free to let me know

Would appreciate that greatly. Anything to improve the lives of my plants/fish

 

Would appreciate that greatly. Anything to improve the lives of my plants/fish

Here's a list of parts:

A $56 15lb CO2 tank from beveragelements.com

A $50-60 Fzone regulator from Amazon.com

$10 CO2 Aquatek Tubing from Amazon.com

$10 Cheap CO2 Ceramic Diffuser (This is not an air bubble stone and is a very fine ceramic disc made for micro bubbles) from Amazon.com

Cheap circulation pump: The diffuser is placed right under the pump intake and sucks up CO2 bubbles and chops them up even more finely. The pump then circulates the CO2 throughout the entire tank.

 

Hello,
Thank you for all of the information about algae.
I have 2 questions ?
I am battling diatoms on buce & drift wood. My planted tank has been up & running for 2 yrs. Weekly water changes, thrive all in one, finnex 24/7, Co2 .
I have BosemanI Rainbows also. The buce is a few weeks old and all of the sudden I noticed they were turning brown, my question is if I remove them from the tank is there anything I can use besides scrubbing the leaves as they are very fragile. My other question is will the cub sterilizer help with the diatoms?
Thank you for your help,

HI FishLore,

After years of battling multiple different species of algae and beating it successfully, I have a pretty simplified guide now to having algae free planted tanks.

I can give more in depth reasoning if requested, but here's a general guide to having an algae free planted tank.

Cause of Algae: Ammonia and CO2
All algae species are originally present in the water through spores. The adult algae is what we actually are able to see in our aquariums and this is what we strive to get rid of. An abundance of ammonia and lack of CO2 is a perfect combination that allows for spores to become adult algae.

Algae is NOT caused by "excess" nitrates and phosphates. Otherwise I would have an algae farm when I dose 60ppm of nitrate per week and dose 15ppm phosphate per week. Algae is caused by organic decay (produces ammonia) and an insufficient amount or fluctuation in CO2.

What causes organic decay? Unhealthy or transitioning plants that are lacking sufficient nutrients and/or are shedding their emersed growth. As a result of these conditions, the plants release ammonia as they decay and die.

What causes an insufficient amount of CO2 or fluctuations? A lack of CO2 injection or the use of DIY CO2.

Note: I am not stating that light "causes" algae. This is because aquatic plants can be grown in the strongest source of light (direct sunlight) without algae, so it goes to show that if you have high enough CO2 and fertilizer levels, you won't have an issue with algae even with super strong light sources.

Algae Treatment and Cure:

The first treatment is simply manual removal. I do not condone the use of algaecides unless it is truly the last option or the issues in the tank have been fixed but the adult algae needs to be removed. Algaecides like hydrogen peroxide and excel when used in high quantities can pose an issue for the beneficial bacteria colonies in the tank.

The second treatment option is the use of a UV sterilizer. This is really to be used after the algae has been manually removed or in the case of green water. The UV sterilizer will kill the algal spores or adult algae floating in the water column.

Here's the cure for most algaes:

Start fertilizing your aquariums with a complete formulation of nutrients including nitrogen, phosphate, potassium, iron, magnesium, calcium, and the rest of the trace elements (zinc, boron, molybdenum, etc). Thrive by NilocG is a great option for beginners and dry fertilizers are a better option for the more advanced aquarists or those with large aquariums.

Inject CO2 into the water. If you're already doing this and still have algae issues, your CO2 levels aren't high enough. Disregard your drop checker or your pH/kH tests and just watch your livestock. Bump the CO2 high enough until the point that your fish become slightly stressed and start to gasp at the surface for air. Then lower it just a tad down. Lower it just slightly so that the fish return to their normal state, but the CO2 levels aren't lowered significantly. This threshold CO2 level between stress and no stress is where you want the CO2 level to be at permanently. This level is the perfect concentration of around 20-30ppm CO2 which is ideal for aquatic plant growth.

Increase your filtration. Over filtration is often better than under filtration. Try to use established filter media if you have any. Increased filtration equates to less ammonia and allows for a larger margin of error in the aquarium.

For those who do NOT want to start CO2 injection:
Your journey to an algae free tank just got 10x more difficult. Lowtech tanks are often famed for being "low maintenance" but that is anything but the truth. Having an algae free lowtech tank requires optimal and fragile balance. Not saying it isn't possible but it is way more difficult than it leads on to be. In order to have an algae free lowtech tank, do a split photoperiod and fertilize sufficiently. Keep the photoperiod at around 8-9 hours and split it 50/50 with a 2 or 3 hour rest period in between. Thrive is perfect for lowtech tanks. Experiment with lighting levels. Some lights are straight up way too powerful for a lowtech tank. Too much light without enough CO2 and fertilizer is asking for an algae disaster. Get a high quality 6500K light for a lowtech aquarium. 6500K CFL grow bulbs often are great for lowtech aquariums because they aren't too powerful, they're cheap, and they last quite long. Make you sure you keep up with fertilization and filtration.

Pressurized CO2 does not have to be complicated or expensive. It is very easy to use and makes a HUGE difference.

Here are is a specific list of algae I've encountered (ranked from easiest first to most difficult last) and how I got rid of them:

1) Diatoms:
Diatoms are simply caused by new tanks. A lack of sufficiently established media and high light often paired with no ferts or CO2 will cause diatoms. Diatoms are also common in tanks with sand although there has been compelling evidence as well that the silicates in the sand do not trigger diatom explosions. The cure to diatoms is simply to wait it out. Let your filter media become more established and keep fertilizing your plants sufficiently. Keep up with water changes and within a few weeks or days, the diatoms will be gone.

2) Green Water Algae:
If you notice your water starting to get cloudy or developing a green tint, act immediately as this is green water algae. This is a free floating algae that makes the water a dark green if not addressed immediately. It is often caused by excess ammonia in the water due to plants decaying and/or overfeeding food. Large water changes, increasing filtration, and adding UV sterilization is the best way to get rid of this algae. Adding UV sterilizers are EXTREMELY effective and it is the only way I've quickly gotten rid of this algae without having to perform multiple large water changes over the course of many weeks.

3) Slimy Filamentous Hair Algae:
This is the most primal sort of hair algae. It is caused by excessive ammonia in the water. To cure this, manually remove it and then increase filtration and flow. Also increase fertilization and CO2 to be on the safe side as well. This is actually very easy to get rid of and often disappears within days of fixing the necessary issues.

4) Green Spot Algae:
Getting rid of this algae is very easy. It is usually due to a lack of CO2 and phosphates. Simply increase phosphate dosing to a healthy 5ppm per dose and if that doesn't work within a few weeks, increase the CO2 as well. The only reason why this can be slightly difficult is that it doesn't go away within days or hours like some of the other algae, and can be a bit persistent.

5) Black Beard Algae and Staghorn:
This algae is often notorious for getting rid of, but that is often because treatment is often attempted incorrectly. Most people blast this algae with excel and hydrogen peroxide but it will come back because the root issue hasn't been addressed. This algae is due only to fluctuating and low CO2 levels. Very easy to fix. Simply fix your CO2 levels (increase it or get a pressurized system) and the algae will turn red with hours and disappear within days. This treatment works for both staghorn and BBA. If you have BBA, you most likely also have staghorn algae and vice versa. The two show up when there isn't enough CO2 or fluctuating levels.

6) Green Hair Algae:
The good old hair algae. It isn't coarse, but it isn't exactly soft to the touch either. It literally looks and feels like hair. This algae is the culmination of everything out of balance in the tank and it is difficult to pinpoint exactly what caused unlike BBA and staghorn algae. The best thing to do with this algae is to remove as much as you can manually and then upgrade or clean the filters, increase CO2. Keep up with water changes and eventually this algae will go away. Once it goes away, it generally doesn't come back as long as good conditions are maintained.

7) Cladophora:
This is a very difficult algae to eradicate, but not impossible. It is caused by a lack of CO2, but it tends to be very hardy unlike BBA and staghorn algae. Manual removal is often best and then the increase CO2 should kill the remaining algae.

8) Spirogyra:
This is by far THE WORST algae I've ever dealt with. Even after increasing filtration, increasing CO2, and really dialing in on my fertilization regimen, I still battled this algae for a long time. The problem with it wasn't that it was growing super thick and suffocating plants, but that it's growth was so wispy and sticky that it was definitely visibly tangled in the plant, but it was impossible to try and remove. Spirogyra often doesn't grow thick and only establishes itself in tanks that have been set up for a long time. This is likely the last type of algae your tank will experience before it is truly algae free. Even after fixing everything, it may still persist, just little strands tangled up in the plants. It won't grow too much more, but it will be there. So what's the cure here? Time and patience. It is a long lived algae that is very persistent. But if conditions have really been made better, the algae will eventually disappear and stop growing. It takes a LONG time though.

I hope this guide helps you if you're struggling with algae. If you'd like more information or any of my scientific reasoning, please feel free to let me know.

 

I have a question about adding co2. I have many tanks, atm, I have 8. I often move fish around when I'm breeding them. I guess plants aren't my main focus, but I do have one 'showtank'. I fear I'll see such a improvement with co2 I'll want it on all my tanks. Also I'm worried about being able to acclimate and move fish around. Are my concerns valid, or do you still suggest co2 for my one showtank?

 

Hello,
Thank you for all of the information about algae.
I have 2 questions ?
I am battling diatoms on buce & drift wood. My planted tank has been up & running for 2 yrs. Weekly water changes, thrive all in one, finnex 24/7, Co2 .
I have BosemanI Rainbows also. The buce is a few weeks old and all of the sudden I noticed they were turning brown, my question is if I remove them from the tank is there anything I can use besides scrubbing the leaves as they are very fragile. My other question is will the cub sterilizer help with the diatoms?
Thank you for your help,

Do you have any other plants in the tank besides buce? Slow growers are especially susceptible to diatoms. Usually, diatoms appear on plants that don't have a good flow around them, too much light, and not enough CO2. I'd try improving the flow, and then maybe upping the CO2 to match the light intensity.

 

I have a question about adding co2. I have many tanks, atm, I have 8. I often move fish around when I'm breeding them. I guess plants aren't my main focus, but I do have one 'showtank'. I fear I'll see such a improvement with co2 I'll want it on all my tanks. Also I'm worried about being able to acclimate and move fish around. Are my concerns valid, or do you still suggest co2 for my one showtank?

It's likely that adding CO2 to one tank will inspire you to add CO2 to the others - atleast that was the case with me. One tank got CO2 and I just had to get CO2 for my other ones since the growth improvement, coloration, and speed is just astounding! Most fish are fine with CO2 in there, especially stuff like tetras which are naturally found in soft water rivers. My clients with hightech tanks I set up for them have had BN plecos and cherry shrimp spawn frequently in there. My guppies and endlers breed like crazy with tanks that are blasting CO2 into them. Acclimating fish to a hightech tank is the same process as adding them to a non-Co2 injected tank. However, for the best possible results for keeping fish (not regarding plants), a non-CO2 injected tank is far better for them. I do not have experience breeding harder to keep fish in a hightech tank.

For now, I'd suggest trying CO2 on just your show tank and see how you like it. I believe it's a worthwhile investment, but there are many valid opinions that suggest otherwise.

 

Hello,
Yes I have a lot of blyxa which are fine, I seem to have enough flow, I have 2 fluval filters one with a spray bar.
my drop checker is light green. my tank isa 38 gallon bow flex so it’s very deep.
I'm trying to adjust the lighting & Co2 .
thank you for your help

Do you have any other plants in the tank besides buce? Slow growers are especially susceptible to diatoms. Usually, diatoms appear on plants that don't have a good flow around them, too much light, and not enough CO2. I'd try improving the flow, and then maybe upping the CO2 to match the light intensity.

 

Hello, thank you for your help, I have set up a Sera reactor for Co2 , right now I have a spray bar attached to disperse the Co2 and was wondering if should use a lily pipe instead. I’m concerned about the Co2 reaching the whole tank ,( 38 gal bow flex) which is very deep. I’m going to add more substrate so the plants will be closer to the top.. Thank you again for your help & suggestions, I really appreciate it, Dar