Nitrates Are Too High

ffishh

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The nitrates in my tank are extremely high and I've been trying to get them down but they won't. I've asked this before and the only advice was 'do frequent water changes'. I have been it isn't helping in the slightest. the nitrate levels will stay around 20 ppm and it's been there for awhile.

I'm working on getting the equipment for his new tank so I can transition him soon but I'm really worried about him. Is there any other advice aside from frequent water changes?
 

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The nitrates in my tank are extremely high and I've been trying to get them down but they won't. I've asked this before and the only advice was 'do frequent water changes'. I have been it isn't helping in the slightest. the nitrate levels will stay around 20 ppm and it's been there for awhile.

I'm working on getting the equipment for his new tank so I can transition him soon but I'm really worried about him. Is there any other advice aside from frequent water changes?

The advice I've heard is that you have to do big water changes to remove nitrates. Also plants consume nitrates so putting live plants in will help. I have a water python so I did an 80% water change temperature matched and my problem went away. Be wary with big water changes though. The more you change the higher the risk. Make sure you're matching ph and temperature if you're doing big ones. Normally the advice I've heard is not to do more than 50%. I've done it, but I can't really say I recommend it. Though in some cases it may be necessary. Like when my air stone failed and all my fish but two died I had to change 100% of the water cause it was so nasty.
 

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I've had reports of shrimp tanks at 20ppm and alive, if there was a problem they'd be first to go. So I think your doing well
 
Have you tested your tap water? Some peoples tap has nitrates in the tap so that could be why it isn't getting lower with water changes.
Edit: Also overfeeding could contribute to your issue but waterchanges & siphoning the gravel should show a change in the nitrate levels if that was the case.
What test kit are you using?
 
Every water change will reduce everything above zero by the percentage of the water change. Twenty five percent water change will reduce everything by 25%. Twenty ppm will be 15ppm. Fifty percent WC will take 20ppm down to 10ppm, etc. Water changes are the fastest way to lower any bad water parameters.

What are you using to test your water? Strips are notoriously inaccurate. API Freshwater Master seems to be the most common liquid test, but if you're using that, be darn sure to shake the living daylights out of solution #2, as the directions say.

Just my $.02, and I wish you the best of luck
 

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Just remember, Nitrates of 40 and below are normal and safe.
Glad you said that. Mines been higher than that. It looked close to 80. Not quite that red. I got it down to 20ppm doing 2 50% wcs this week. I got the idea that it was supposed to be <20. This was soo much work!! 2- 5 gallon buckets, a 75 gallon tank and 4 little ones to help me spill it. Lol!
 
The nitrates in my tank are extremely high and I've been trying to get them down but they won't. I've asked this before and the only advice was 'do frequent water changes'. I have been it isn't helping in the slightest. the nitrate levels will stay around 20 ppm and it's been there for awhile.

I'm working on getting the equipment for his new tank so I can transition him soon but I'm really worried about him. Is there any other advice aside from frequent water changes?
I think you are causing yourself unnecessary stress levels. 20 isn't too high. A lot of folks would be happy if they could get and keep theirs down that low.

If you really feel like you have to keep them lower get some nitra-Zorb and put it in your filter. It will absorb the nitrates. It is one product I bought and actually posted a review of it here on the forum because it works.

I struggled to keep mine 40 or below in my over stocked tank. The nitra-zorb keeps them down close to 20.
 
The nitrates in my tank are extremely high and I've been trying to get them down but they won't. I've asked this before and the only advice was 'do frequent water changes'. I have been it isn't helping in the slightest. the nitrate levels will stay around 20 ppm and it's been there for awhile.

I'm working on getting the equipment for his new tank so I can transition him soon but I'm really worried about him. Is there any other advice aside from frequent water changes?
20 ppm is not bad. Weekly 25-50% water changes (depending on stocking/ bioload), keeping your filter media free of gunk and debris, avoiding overfeeding, good aeration and regular maintenance and cleaning of impellers and intake and outflow tubing will help. Keeping Up with Nitrate | Details | Articles |
Some more delicate species like discus, invertebrates and some fry require that nitrate levels be maintained at lower levels (5-20 ppm) but in general, if you keep your nitrates around 20, your fish will do fine.
 
Periodically I’ll use nitrate pads in my canister to control mine until I can naturally getm under control.
 
I think you are causing yourself unnecessary stress levels. 20 isn't too high. A lot of folks would be happy if they could get and keep theirs down that low.

If you really feel like you have to keep them lower get some nitra-Zorb and put it in your filter. It will absorb the nitrates. It is one product I bought and actually posted a review of it here on the forum because it works.

I struggled to keep mine 40 or below in my over stocked tank. The nitra-zorb keeps them down close to 20.
So that's a good indicator I'm overstocked? I do plan on getting more hornwart.
 

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So that's a good indicator I'm overstocked? I do plan on getting more hornwart.
I can't say that is the only reason my nitrates were getting up there so quickly but that is why I "think" they were.
 
So that's a good indicator I'm overstocked? I do plan on getting more hornwart.
There are a lot of reasons for nitrates to be high.
Have you tested your tap water?
What is your stocking?
Do you over feed/remove excess food?
 
There are a lot of reasons for nitrates to be high.
Have you tested your tap water?
What is your stocking?
Do you over feed/remove excess food?
I've got a high ph in my tank 8.0 and hard water too. Straight out of the tap its 7.4. I left some in a cup to test tomorrow to see if the ph changes after 24 hours. Also, I started a thread to get some ideas cause I'm tired of throwing my brain against a wall. And the internet hates me!
Question - Old Aquarium Gravel And Ph
Oh! This is my stock: 12gold dust mollies
12 red minor tetras
5 "adult"swordtails 2M 3F, 1M is 3.5"
4" long fin plecos
2 clown plecos (full grown little guys )
6 clown loaches 2 little, 4 are about 3"
2 hillstream loaches (full grown little guys)
All fish are 2" or less unless otherwise stated.
They were overfed but we've done several large wc since then. I've been feeding them once a day for a couple days now, but there's hornwart, scuds and some algea. We also painstakingly removed a whole whole bunches of snails.
Oh wow! Is there any way there could be that many snail shells causing it??
 
I've got a high ph in my tank 8.0 and hard water too. Straight out of the tap its 7.4. I left some in a cup to test tomorrow to see if the ph changes after 24 hours. Also, I started a thread to get some ideas cause I'm tired of throwing my brain against a wall. And the internet hates me!
Question - Old Aquarium Gravel And Ph
Oh! This is my stock: 12gold dust mollies
12 red minor tetras
5 "adult"swordtails 2M 3F, 1M is 3.5"
4" long fin plecos
2 clown plecos (full grown little guys )
6 clown loaches 2 little, 4 are about 3"
2 hillstream loaches (full grown little guys)
All fish are 2" or less unless otherwise stated.
They were overfed but we've done several large wc since then. I've been feeding them once a day for a couple days now, but there's hornwart, scuds and some algea. We also painstakingly removed a whole whole bunches of snails.
Oh wow! Is there any way there could be that many snail shells causing it??
I meant have you tested your tap for ammonia nitrites or nitrates? If it is in the water that you are using for the water changes that would explain why a water change wouldn't show a corresponding reduction in nitrates.
You have a decent amount of "bottom feeder" type fish and heavy waste producing fish. It can help to have a feeding dish like a terra-cotta saucer tray to feed on for the bottom feeders so it is easy to remove excess food. Then the excess food doesn't have a chance to turn into nitrates.
I have never heard of snail shells affecting nitrates but dead/decaying snail bodies would create ammonia thus through the cycle creating nitrates. The shells might affect pH but I don't see them affecting nitrates in a noticeable way mostly because of how slow the shell breaks down.
 
20ppm is fine water change once a week stop worrying .

Loachlover357 when testing your nitrates put the vial right on top of the color chart. If you can see the color it’s the last one you can’t see . Colors are way to close to be guessing.
 
If another member already posted what I said, I didn't catch it when I read over the thread.......

Do you have gravel or sand substrate?

Do you use a gravel siphon vac to clean the substrate at every water change?

A build up of uneaten food and fish waste will contribute to nitrate build up.

Is it possible you or someone else in the household overfeeds the tank?
 
20ppm is fine water change once a week stop worrying .

Loachlover357 when testing your nitrates put the vial right on top of the color chart. If you can see the color it’s the last one you can’t see . Colors are way to close to be guessing.
That's awesome! ! Thanks a lot easier!
 
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  • #19
If another member already posted what I said, I didn't catch it when I read over the thread.......

Do you have gravel or sand substrate?

Do you use a gravel siphon vac to clean the substrate at every water change?

A build up of uneaten food and fish waste will contribute to nitrate build up.

Is it possible you or someone else in the household overfeeds the tank?


I actually have large river rocks which, now I know aren't good at all, but I set up his tank when I was very new to this. I'll be moving him to a bigger tank with smaller gravel.

I siphon pretty much every time I do water changes, sometimes there will be a lot of waste, sometimes barely nothing. I'm the only one that feeds him and I don't think I'm over feeding, I might need to work harder on siphoning out food he doesn't eat after two minutes?

20ppm is fine water change once a week stop worrying .

Loachlover357 when testing your nitrates put the vial right on top of the color chart. If you can see the color it’s the last one you can’t see . Colors are way to close to be guessing.

I didn't know 20ppm is okay, so that's a relief, but the levels rise way too quickly. From week to week it'll go from 20ppm to 80 or in the 100s.

Periodically I’ll use nitrate pads in my canister to control mine until I can naturally getm under control.

That's a good idea, I wasn't sure if something like that existed, I couldn't find anything. Thank you!

20 ppm is not bad. Weekly 25-50% water changes (depending on stocking/ bioload), keeping your filter media free of gunk and debris, avoiding overfeeding, good aeration and regular maintenance and cleaning of impellers and intake and outflow tubing will help. Keeping Up with Nitrate | Details | Articles |
Some more delicate species like discus, invertebrates and some fry require that nitrate levels be maintained at lower levels (5-20 ppm) but in general, if you keep your nitrates around 20, your fish will do fine.

Thank you for the details c: His filter used to be cleaner as of late but it used to always build up a ton of gunk from week to week... I know goldfish are messy but I don't think it's supposed to get that bad that quickly?? I don't think I over feed but it could be that I'm not siphoning the food out quick enough or carefully enough?

I think you are causing yourself unnecessary stress levels. 20 isn't too high. A lot of folks would be happy if they could get and keep theirs down that low.

If you really feel like you have to keep them lower get some nitra-Zorb and put it in your filter. It will absorb the nitrates. It is one product I bought and actually posted a review of it here on the forum because it works.

I struggled to keep mine 40 or below in my over stocked tank. The nitra-zorb keeps them down close to 20.

I don't generally worry when it's at 20ppm but it gets way to high way to quickly, no matter what I try to keep them down :c Thank you for the rec, I wasn't sure if things like that existed! I'll make sure to try it on top of working even harder to keep his tank cleaned.

Every water change will reduce everything above zero by the percentage of the water change. Twenty five percent water change will reduce everything by 25%. Twenty ppm will be 15ppm. Fifty percent WC will take 20ppm down to 10ppm, etc. Water changes are the fastest way to lower any bad water parameters.

What are you using to test your water? Strips are notoriously inaccurate. API Freshwater Master seems to be the most common liquid test, but if you're using that, be darn sure to shake the living daylights out of solution #2, as the directions say.

Just my $.02, and I wish you the best of luck

I've always used API freshwater master! I used to not understand how important shaking it was, now I definitely do lol

I try to do water changes as often as possible but it seems the nitrates are rising way too quickly for me to keep up. His in a 20 gal tank, the bare minimum for an oranda, but he's grown quite a bit. Could it be he's too big for his tank and it's making it dirtier quicker?? I'm setting up a bigger tank for him asap but I can't move him for awhile, I don't want him to die before I can make the change.

Have you tested your tap water? Some peoples tap has nitrates in the tap so that could be why it isn't getting lower with water changes.
Edit: Also overfeeding could contribute to your issue but waterchanges & siphoning the gravel should show a change in the nitrate levels if that was the case.
What test kit are you using?

I haven't tested my tap water, that's a good idea. What would I do if the tap water was high in nitrates?

I have been doing water changes and siphoning but it climbs too quickly. I used an API freshwater master kit.
 
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  • #20
The advice I've heard is that you have to do big water changes to remove nitrates. Also plants consume nitrates so putting live plants in will help. I have a water python so I did an 80% water change temperature matched and my problem went away. Be wary with big water changes though. The more you change the higher the risk. Make sure you're matching ph and temperature if you're doing big ones. Normally the advice I've heard is not to do more than 50%. I've done it, but I can't really say I recommend it. Though in some cases it may be necessary. Like when my air stone failed and all my fish but two died I had to change 100% of the water cause it was so nasty.

I've honestly never thought about temperature matching, although I try to get it as close as possible. I'm still sorta new to this, so thank you for all the info c:

I'm working on setting up a bigger tank for him, but I can't get live plants until then, I don't have enough substrate. I did throw in a couple of moss balls tho (I have in the past but they get shredded by the filter) to possibly help in bringing the nitrates down.

I had to do a 50-60% water change recently (I relocated his tank) and he seemed relatively fine after it, but all of the sudden the nitrates spiked again, I completely forgot big water changes could cause that.

Thank you for all of your advice c:
 
I haven't tested my tap water, that's a good idea. What would I do if the tap water was high in nitrates?

I have been doing water changes and siphoning but it climbs too quickly. I used an API freshwater master kit.
If your nitrates were high from the tap it would explain why the large waterchanges don't reduce the levels as well as they should so you wouldn't have to worry about other issues.
I would say first step is to spot clean for excess food/buildup in addition to regular waterchanges. It helps if it doesn't sit in the tank for as long. Adding plants is a great option as many people find them ascetically pleasing as well. You could do plants inside of the tank but there are great options for plants above the tank as well like pothos. *fast growing plants will always reduce nitrates better than slower growing plants. Nitrazorb is a more expensive fix long term however it can be recharged which is a plus.

I wouldn't stress over chasing an ideal # as much as finding a routine that is sustainable for you and creates a stable environment for the fish. Less spikes in nitrates is healthier for the fish and you!
 

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I've honestly never thought about temperature matching, although I try to get it as close as possible. I'm still sorta new to this, so thank you for all the info c:

I'm working on setting up a bigger tank for him, but I can't get live plants until then, I don't have enough substrate. I did throw in a couple of moss balls tho (I have in the past but they get shredded by the filter) to possibly help in bringing the nitrates down.

I had to do a 50-60% water change recently (I relocated his tank) and he seemed relatively fine after it, but all of the sudden the nitrates spiked again, I completely forgot big water changes could cause that.

Thank you for all of your advice c:
Big water changes do not cause nitrate, nitrite or ammonia spikes. The nitrifying bacteria that break down waste are mainly attached to your filter media but also to your substrate and objects in your tank. The bacteria are not free floating in the water.
Testing your source water will tell you if you have any nitrates in it. Its doubtful that they are very high because just doing water changes brings your tank nitrates down significantly. Testing will just let you know how much dilution, of your tank water with tap water, will lower your nitrates.
Your nitrates shouldn't go from 20 to 80+ in one week with just 1 goldfish in a 20 gallon tank. I suspect that you may very well be overfeeding your fish, the river rock in your tank is interfering with adequate vacuuming of waste and left over food, your filter is not adequate for your tank and the fish in it or is not functioning properly. What are you feeding your fish? If it's a flake food, you might switch to a slow sinking pellet instead. Feed him only as much as he will eat in 1 minute a couple times a day. Pellets that float are easier to remove than flakes that tend to sink and disappear fast. What kind of filter do you have on your tank? Have you cleaned the filter media recently and removed gunk and detritus that might be interfering with water flowing through it? Have you checked your intake and outflow tubes to make sure they aren't partially clogged-- you said you added moss balls that got shredded-- check to be sure pieces aren't clogging your intake. I'd also suggest removing at least half the river rock If its bigger than 1/2 to 1 inch so you can at least get your siphon between the rocks or scoot them around with the siphon to get at the tank floor. You can replace the rocks gradually with well rinsed gravel or smaller river pebbles if you want. Can you post a picture of yoor tank? It might give us a better idea of what might be causing your nitrate spikes--beside, it's always nice to see other people's tanks. I love river rock in a tank, it might not be really causing a problem but a picture would be helpful for determining that.
 
Plants are amazing for bringing nitrates down. Have a heavily planted 120 gallon and all stays relatively stable but have maybe 100+ plants and they tend to bleed off the nitrates. If you choose plants well live plants do a great job soaking up any extra nitrates and given the right choice can fit in any tank despite height.
 
You will ALWAYS have nitrates, unless you have a severely understocked tank with over the top filtration, and lots of plants. 20ppm is perfectly safe and nothing to worry about, it’s the byproduct of the nitrogen cycle, and can only be removed with regular WC and plants.

At 20ppm I wouldn’t worry, like I said, unless your tank is under stocked and over filtered you will never ever get 0ppm
 
The nitrates in my tank are extremely high and I've been trying to get them down but they won't. I've asked this before and the only advice was 'do frequent water changes'. I have been it isn't helping in the slightest. the nitrate levels will stay around 20 ppm and it's been there for awhile.

I'm working on getting the equipment for his new tank so I can transition him soon but I'm really worried about him. Is there any other advice aside from frequent water changes?
Do you have live plants in there? I float hornwort in my tanks to help suck up the nitrates and it is extremely effective. Water sprite also works well .
 
Don’t suppose you have any wood or anything in there that could be leaching the nitrates into your water? I’ve had it before where some sort of pourous tank furniture has soaked up a lot of nitrates say and as much as you keep doing water changes it will keep leaching the nitrates back into the water until it’s all out which could take a while. Just an opinion that’s all and good
Luck.
 
Also, I just reread your post and your nitrates really aren’t that high. 20 ppm your fish should still be fine. I’ve had my tanks at 40 ppm and they were still having babies and doing fine I just added some plants to lower everything and did some water changes. 20 ppm is not high in my Opinion.
 
20 nitrates is ok for a community tank, my molllies and tetras are over 2 years plus and had babies in the interI'm and my nitrates usually read 20 , live plants help the levels
 
First, I just wanted to say as a keeper of goldfish over the past 30yrs, a 20gal Long? Is only good for the first year at most. They're prolific waste producers, which I'm sure you're tired of hearing...But it's a lot of work to keep goldfish. I did daily water changes on a 40 with just 2 goodies. I used a lot of hornwort and duckweed and pothos in hob (which helped alot). I'm not sure how big your guy is?? But it's definitely better for his health and maintenance to go to a 40 for one and 55 for two. That being said, only for fancies. All other goodies belong in ponds.
 
Like many said, don’t worry too much and over stress yourself. Try to avoid any SUDDEN change, other than that, you will be surprised how fish are hardcore
 
The nitrates in my tank are extremely high and I've been trying to get them down but they won't. I've asked this before and the only advice was 'do frequent water changes'. I have been it isn't helping in the slightest. the nitrate levels will stay around 20 ppm and it's been there for awhile.

I'm working on getting the equipment for his new tank so I can transition him soon but I'm really worried about him. Is there any other advice aside from frequent water changes?


Invest in a python water change system for such a large tank you will not regret it. Shake your test solution bottles thoroughly. Test your water that you are replacing it with before the change. Add plants. Dont overfeed .

Relax.
 

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  • #32
Do you have live plants in there? I float hornwort in my tanks to help suck up the nitrates and it is extremely effective. Water sprite also works well .

Hm I might try hornwort, i'm just afraid my goldfish will eat all of it lol

First, I just wanted to say as a keeper of goldfish over the past 30yrs, a 20gal Long? Is only good for the first year at most. They're prolific waste producers, which I'm sure you're tired of hearing...But it's a lot of work to keep goldfish. I did daily water changes on a 40 with just 2 goodies. I used a lot of hornwort and duckweed and pothos in hob (which helped alot). I'm not sure how big your guy is?? But it's definitely better for his health and maintenance to go to a 40 for one and 55 for two. That being said, only for fancies. All other goodies belong in ponds.

he's..... pretty much golf ball sized... hes a big fish lol... I didn't know 20 gal was only ok for a year, thanks for the info! I was thinking of getting another oranda when switching to the 40 but I'll keep just him in there if thatd be overstocking.
 
I know testing your tap water has been mentioned. I just wanted to add that you should test it every time you do a water change. The nitrates in some town water systems can vary dramatically by day as well. Sometimes my brother can do a water change with his tap, sometimes he can’t and has to buy RO water.
 
I had nitrates in my tap water, so I switched to spring water. That brought it down to 10.
 
A very good option for reducing nitrates is to add a floating plant. They grow very fast so as a result soak up all the nitrates. I recommend dwarf water lettuce, but any floating plant should do the job.
 
The nitrates in my tank are extremely high and I've been trying to get them down but they won't. I've asked this before and the only advice was 'do frequent water changes'. I have been it isn't helping in the slightest. the nitrate levels will stay around 20 ppm and it's been there for awhile.

I'm working on getting the equipment for his new tank so I can transition him soon but I'm really worried about him. Is there any other advice aside from frequent water changes?

Get the fish in a new tank while you fix the old one
 
I'm by no means an expert.......

My community 55 has 4 Gourami......2 6" common Pleco......1 massive Tiger Barb....1 adult Angel fish and 1 Bumblebee catfish. 5 clusters of C. Spiralis and 2 of Java ferns.

It's also been running for 2 years......... .and no matter the frequency or size of water changes........ the ph stays around 8-8.4....... .and the nitrates are off the charts. My fish are fine...... they're all active...... none are darting or otherwise acting out.

I realize that the parameters are less than ideal.......... but it seems that my community is doing well as is.

1 of my giant plecos will soon be relocated to my other 55 with the comets.

Oddly enough....... my 10 gallon breeder/fry tank hasn't had any kind of mechanical filtration in 2+ months.......... .and has **** near perfect levels all the time......except for a high ph.
 
have also had success with those waffer things
By Seapora they are the size of a letter size page


The nitrates in my tank are extremely high and I've been trying to get them down but they won't. I've asked this before and the only advice was 'do frequent water changes'. I have been it isn't helping in the slightest. the nitrate levels will stay around 20 ppm and it's been there for awhile.

I'm working on getting the equipment for his new tank so I can transition him soon but I'm really worried about him. Is there any other advice aside from frequent water changes?
 
I used to use purigen in my marine tank and it was amazing stuff to be honest, not sure if it’s usable in freshwater/tropical but can’t see any reason why not? Might be a bit overkill but it’s good stuff, a little bit expensive but will defo do the job.
 
I would recommend getting a 55 gallon if you are wanting too get 2, but a 40 will be okay, especially for just one fancy goldfish. What kind of goldfish is he? Golf ball size is actually pretty small for a goldfish. A pearl scale goldfish (probably the smallest type of goldfish out there) still reaches 6 inches in length when kept in a proper sized tank. If he’s a fancy then a 40 gallon is fine for him, but if he’s a common your gonna need at least a 75 gallon (Bare minimum).
 

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Have you tested your tap water? Some peoples tap has nitrates in the tap so that could be why it isn't getting lower with water changes.
Edit: Also overfeeding could contribute to your issue but waterchanges & siphoning the gravel should show a change in the nitrate levels if that was the case.
What test kit are you using?

Testing the water source is essential. I have 80+ levels of Nitrates in my private well water, so I've decided to stop drinking it, and use alternative sources for my fish tanks as well. Most of the wells in this rural area of Korea where I live are probably contaminated with high nitrogen chemical fertilizers. Hopefully the pesticides have't also, but there is a pretty good chance that some other toxic contaminates are getting in.
 
20ppm NO3 is usually a good number for most freshwater, including shrimp. My tap is about 5-7ppm NO3. I have a holding water tank where I aerate and age my water. I also use a power head with a bag of Nitra-zorb in a filter basket. I had to fill the bottom of the basket with foam so that the bag would be tight against the intake of the powerhead. I have been using Nitra-zorb for only 3 months, recharging it every month, and have seen my NO3 levels drop about 40%. Unless you are going to use RO/DO I don't think that you're going to get down to 10ppm. Powerhead for Nitra-Zorb.JPG
 
I agree. I use purigen and matrix in all my tanks also. Love It!
My tank is only a few months old but I’m running an Eheim professional 4+ 250T on a 100 litre tank with an eheim prefilter and only 10 zebra plecs and 2 elephant snails and 2 armoured shrimp and my nitrates are always under 5ppm, so I haven’t had the need to use anything like that yet on it and must do about 50% water change weekly over the course of the weekend I’ll do a bucket or two one day and then the next day. Purigen was a god send in my marine tank though
 
I have a bunch of Purigen but I don't use it any more. I have planted tanks and I also thought that it might be starving my Biohome. Also once I regenerated it and forgot to condition it with my African buffer and it caused my PH to drop dramatically. It was lucky that I caught it quick. After 40+ years of tankin' I am investigating Salt water reef. Heaven help me!
 
I have a bunch of Purigen but I don't use it any more. I have planted tanks and I also thought that it might be starving my Biohome. Also once I regenerated it and forgot to condition it with my African buffer and it caused my PH to drop dramatically. It was lucky that I caught it quick. After 40+ years of tankin' I am investigating Salt water reef. Heaven help me!
Well all I can say is that I have never had a hobby or anything I loved as much as my reef tank. It literally captivates you and then you find you spend every waking hour and Penny on this amazing cube of water other than gaining a self taught masters degree in chemistry it comes with 24/7 worry that everything is still alive and fine. Some nights you’ll find yourself sitting up with your tank all night to find the gorilla crab that’s gonna eat your amazing fish or if one has a tiny little white spot on it and you watch them every second of the day to see if they are spreading and that the flow of water/current is just right and your anemone hasn’t accidentally swam into it and poisoned your whole tank and killed it off and the corals aren’t creating chemical warfare in the tank! Other than that it’s amazing haha. Seriously though my tank was literally my world and then I had 3 kids and bought a house, so when I was moving I decided to break down my tank because there was a high chance of it crashing with the move. It was like having a second job in all honesty because unlike trop tanks there is not a lot of room for error and one swing of something and it could be game over. I’ve decided I won’t bother with marine again until all my kids have moved out!!!! But good luck to anyone who wants to give it a go. With all the hard work the rewards are literally amazing to see a slice of something so special surviving and growing at your own hands. I was lucky I only ever lost one fire/blood shrimp but I’ve heard of really bad stories. One word of advice seriously is take your time and research!!!!!!!!! It’s like going to buy a mandarin goby only to find out when you get it home it only eats live Copepods, which is fine if you have a mature tank which in the marine world is minimum of a year and your gonna get through lots of salt and RO water. First purchase should be a refractometer all the best on your journey
 
I have a bunch of Purigen but I don't use it any more. I have planted tanks and I also thought that it might be starving my Biohome. Also once I regenerated it and forgot to condition it with my African buffer and it caused my PH to drop dramatically. It was lucky that I caught it quick. After 40+ years of tankin' I am investigating Salt water reef. Heaven help me!
Yes purigen will literally take anything out of the water, hence the reason I only used to use it in my marine tank in the external filter. I had so much live rock in the tank anyway but it kept all the nasties out of the display tank.
 
Well all I can say is that I have never had a hobby or anything I loved as much as my reef tank. It literally captivates you and then you find you spend every waking hour and Penny on this amazing cube of water other than gaining a self taught masters degree in chemistry it comes with 24/7 worry that everything is still alive and fine. Some nights you’ll find yourself sitting up with your tank all night to find the gorilla crab that’s gonna eat your amazing fish or if one has a tiny little white spot on it and you watch them every second of the day to see if they are spreading and that the flow of water/current is just right and your anemone hasn’t accidentally swam into it and poisoned your whole tank and killed it off and the corals aren’t creating chemical warfare in the tank! Other than that it’s amazing haha. Seriously though my tank was literally my world and then I had 3 kids and bought a house, so when I was moving I decided to break down my tank because there was a high chance of it crashing with the move. It was like having a second job in all honesty because unlike trop tanks there is not a lot of room for error and one swing of something and it could be game over. I’ve decided I won’t bother with marine again until all my kids have moved out!!!! But good luck to anyone who wants to give it a go. With all the hard work the rewards are literally amazing to see a slice of something so special surviving and growing at your own hands. I was lucky I only ever lost one fire/blood shrimp but I’ve heard of really bad stories. One word of advice seriously is take your time and research!!!!!!!!! It’s like going to buy a mandarin goby only to find out when you get it home it only eats live Copepods, which is fine if you have a mature tank which in the marine world is minimum of a year and your gonna get through lots of salt and RO water. First purchase should be a refractometer all the best on your journey
I have been spending a lot of time researching and watching YouTube. One in particular closed the valve for me.
. The old processor that I have as a brain needs an upgrade. My wonderment turned to excitement...which turned to doubt...then to fear...and finally to realization. This is best left to my next life timeline. I will stay with what I know (somewhat) and love...my 5 boxes of freshwater with my Tanganyikans, Synodontis, Clown loaches, Tetras, Bosemani, Roselines & plants. There is still a lifetime of knowledge out there to learn how to be a good steward to the creatures I have.
 

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