75 gallon planted community build

[LilChicken]

This is going to be my first major foray into not only a planted tank but this is the largest tank I've ever owNed in my life thus far.

This is just going to be my diary, if you will, about the progress of my tanks from beginning to end.

I'm currently cycling a 75 gallon and a 5.5 and possibly buying a ten this week as well. We'll see. This project will probably take me about 2 month for completion from this point. Let's just jump in shall we?

my stocking plan for my tank is as follows:
Purple harlequin rasboras 5
zebra danios 5
serpae tetras 5
pearl danios 5
scissortail rasboras 5
glowlight tetras 5
neon tetras 10
and corydoras 10

Plants:

Definitely:
anacharis
hornwort

Considering:
java moss
java fern
anubias
Water wisteria
amazon sword

If you have any insight feel free to drop in and share and follow along

 

[mikerox29]

That sounds like a good stocking plan to me. Not sure what temperature the tetras need but be careful with the corys and danios because they usually have lower temperature thresholds than the tetras.

 

[LilChicken]

I was planning on 75 degrees as this is pretty close to the tanks natural temperature and seems to be in line with the temp parameters of the fish listed. Although I do know certain corys prefer warmer/colder ranges.

 

[Dom90]

Only cories that would work at that temp are panda, peppered and trilleneatus.

 

[Bluestreakfl]

I can't wait to see how beautiful everything turns out! Its gonna be awesome, and I'm sure it will be your pride and joy! Setting up a new tank is always fun, its such an excellent creative process, and is really pleasing to the soul. Dont forget to upload pics as you have them, we all love us some pictures!

One thing I would suggest, I see you have 6 schools of 5, I would recommend changing that to 3 schools of 10, or even better, 2 schools of 15. A proper school is normally stated as 6, however in larger tanks, that minimum school size needs to be a bit higher to reduce aggressive behavior like fin nipping and such. Also, with larger schools, you'll see not only more peaceful, but more natural behavior, and it will benefit your fish in the long run as they will have an ideal and stress free environment.

 

[LilChicken]

Uploading a picture for before/after. This is my current set up with playsand substrate, free driftwood held down by slate, and a few plastic plants (for now). This is just so I have something in my tank for the few fish in there. Sorry about it being so dark, I don't have my lighting fixture yet.

 

[LilChicken]

I'm so excited I had to post an update. I received my package today with some fish goodies and wanted to update my journal for posterity. I bought 2 Aqueon Quietflow 55 / 75 400gph filters and ordered an API freshwater master test kit and I gotta say I'm in love with both. The filters run, not only smoothly, but quietly as well and the test kit is simple to use and the instructions are easy to follow.
My current water parameters are:
Ph 8.2
Ammonia .50 ppm
Nitrite .25 ppm
Nitrates 30 ppm
Temp 76 degrees

 

[Anders247]

Only cories that would work at that temp are panda, peppered and trilleneatus.

There are others..... Coradee can name them.
Keep in mind trilineatus is often mislabeled as C. julii, so if it says juliI cories than they are most likely C. trilineatus.

 

[Coradee]

There are others..... @Coradee can name them.
Keep in mind trilineatus is often mislabeled as C. julii, so if it says juliI cories than they are most likely C. trilineatus.

Many of the easily available corys would be happy at 75/76F, it's a bit low for sterbaI though

 

[LilChicken]

Coradee I was planning on a school of peppered and a school of bronze. In your experience will this work? Or should I just go with peppered. Also where can I find out what temperature each cory likes?

 

[Coradee]

Peppered would like it a bit cooler, you could have a mixed school of bronze & albino aenus as they're the same species.
Planet catfish is a good resource for anything catfish planet catfish

 

[LilChicken]

Update parameters:
Temp 77 degrees
Ph 7.8
Ammonia .25 ppm
Nitrite .50 ppm
Nitrates 10 ppm

Getting closer every day!

 

[bigdreams]

Curious what your substrate and lighting is... can you provide some specifics? I am in process of building out a planted 55 gallon tank too, so it's fun to compare notes and experiences. I chose to do a natural planted tank (Walstad method), wondering what you are doing as you say it is your first planted tank.

 

[LilChicken]

bigdreams my substrate is sand as I read it was the best things for the corys that I plan on putting in the tank and the light I'm going to get is the Finnex planted plus. I'm just beginning so I plan on a few varieties of low light plants, trying to get as close to an amazon biotope as possible for my corys but it won't be totally a biotope.

 

[LilChicken]

Ph 8.2
Ammonia 0 ppm
Nitrite .25 ppm
Nitrates 0 ppm

I think it's time for some fishies! Finally, YAY!

 

[Bluestreakfl]

To be on the safe side, id wait til your Nitrites are absolutely 0. I made the mistake of adding fish a bit too soon, and had a 5 day nitrite spike when I first added fish to my 55g. Nitrites are even more toxic than ammonia. Also its a bit odd that your Nitrates are reading at 0.

 

[LilChicken]

To be on the safe side, id wait til your Nitrites are absolutely 0. I made the mistake of adding fish a bit too soon, and had a 5 day nitrite spike when I first added fish to my 55g. Nitrites are even more toxic than ammonia. Also its a bit odd that your Nitrates are reading at 0.

I thought nitrites were less toxic and Nitrates less than Nitrates but still bad if too high. Should I add a bacteria supplements? I have the ongoing parameters on this thread and I had up to 50 ppm I believe but then it went to zero again.

 

[Bluestreakfl]

Ammonia is very toxic, Nitrites are EXTREMELY toxic, Nitrates are only toxic once they start to get in the 40ppm range or higher.

 

[mbjr11]

Hello everyone, I will use this to ask a few questions and document my build as I go. I kept a couple tanks including a 125 gallon cichlid tank for a few years but recently took ~2 years off as I was moving post college for my job. Now that I'm settled in I think it's time to set up a new tank at home (have a 7 gallon in my office at work). I will be painting the back wall of the tank black in the coming days and then be ready to start adding equipment and materials.

The plan for this tank is a low-tech (for now) community tank. This will be my first planted tank. I plan on keeping the tank around 83°F for the discus and I'm sure I will have to have a little trial and error with some of my plants. I am thinking a nice piece of driftwood will be on a hill or mound in the back left corner angling towards the forward right corner. The right side of the tank will remain mostly open with the exception of some carpet. I am undecided if I want to add any background tanks to the right hand side along the back wall of just leave it all carpet.

Equipment:
75 gallon tank
Aquaclear 110 filter
Eheim 300w Heater
Finnex 48" Planted+ 24/7 Light (Hoping one fixture is sufficient for my plants)
Eco Complete Substrate (Probably will start with 6x20lb bags and hope that is enough)

Fish Stocking List:
(30) Cardinal Tetras
(9) Sterbai Cory Cats
(5-6) Discus - Won't be ready for these for several months. Want to ensure tank is perfect before introducing them.

Plant Stocking List:
Dwarf Hairgrass (Carpet)
Phillipine Fern (Will be glued to the top side of the driftwood branches)
Amazon Sword (Planted in the left corner behind and around driftwood)
Alternanthera Reineckii Mini (Will be used to add a little color and be planted around the base of the driftwood and act as a buffer between the carpet and driftwood)

I plan on using root tabs during planting and will need some recommendations on which ferts to use and how often to use them once I get the plants in and filled with water. Please offer up any suggestions and ask any questions you have. I will start posting some pictures once I have something worthy to post.

Heading to my LFS this afternoon to pickup the tank stand and check out his selection of driftwood along with checking to see if he has the Eco Complete Substrate.

 

[Danny002]

It sounds like that's gonna look really cool! I'm curious to see what kind of driftwood you pick out, as that can really shape the look of the tank. Are you planning on letting the carpet grow through the whole tank, or are you only going to have it on the right side? Could I make the recommendation of just getting some basic sand to use to make the hill shape, and then covering it with the eco complete so you don't waste a ton of it making the hill.

 

[mbjr11]

I'm planning on letting the carpet grow through the whole tank up to the point where the Alternanthera Reineckii will be growing around the driftwood. Everywhere else should be carpet. I was thinking that keeping the whole tank green will really make those cardinal tetras pop. I will definitely post a picture this evening if I take home a piece of driftwood.

I have definitely been thinking about doing something exactly like you mentioned with either basic sand or gravel or lava rocks depending on what I can find the quickest/easiest. I forgot to mention that earlier.

 

[Rev]

Are you planning on doing CO2 injection? That's the only way you're going to be able to get a good carpet really, especially from dwarf hairgrass.

Also I am going to suggest sand. As someone who has two tanks both with eco complete I can't stand it. It's very hard to actually plant your plants and very easy to damage them in doing so. Now if you keep with a dark substrate you will have to deal with some peppering on your discus. They try to darken up to the substrate. Not sure if a black background will contribute to that as well or not. But some people like the peppering, some don't mind it, some absolutely hate it. So take that into account. Personally I'd suggest a white sand for your substrate. Looks nice, significantly cheaper than eco complete, easier to plant and you'll get little to no peppering on your discus. Also your cories will really appreciate the sand over the rough gravel of eco complete. However poop does show up a lot on light colored sand so keep that in mind. Granted you should be vacing often to keep water conditions constant for discus since they're sensitive. With the carpet side you won't notice it obviously. Just make sure to get a good gravel vac on it. Also with gravel waste tends to fall through into the gravel making it harder to get the tank clean for your discus. Sand it will sit on top. And the cories will stir the sand naturally for you so you aren't dealing with pockets of anaerobic bacteria.

 

[mbjr11]

I really was going to try and stay away from CO2 injection and plant a ton of dwarf hairgrass but I will resort to it if absolutely necessary.

That's all good info and I have gone back and forth over doing pool filter sand or eco complete/similar. Now I am leaning back towards pool filter sand.

The main reason I was going with eco complete is because I don't envision any parts of the substrate being visible once I have my tank carpeted. I would like the entirety of the substrate to be carpet/other plants.

 

[Danny002]

I think the light sand is a good idea. If you still wanted to have the roots of your plants in some kind of nutritious substrate, you could cap it with the sand and just plant everything deep enough to go into the substrate below.

EDIT: I've also heard that pearl weed is pretty undemanding and doesn't really need co2. You could get a small bottle of liquid co2 and use that occasionally if it's needed. I've never personally done this but I've heard that it can help.

 

[mbjr11]

I might just go ahead and do all pool filter sand. Really hoping I don't end up having to do CO2 injections to get the carpet I want.

 

[Rev]

Dwarf hairgrass just tends to grow quite slow. Though there is a strain that grows a bit taller and faster. But I've tried to get it to carpet in a low tech tank twice and couldn't get it. I separated it out into very small bunches, trimmed it back, trimmed the roots, everything to try and get it to send out runners and it wouldn't go. Little to no new growth. Gave up on it after a few months. Though I don't think the eco complete helped either. Sand is a bit easier for carpets from everything I've seen. Even if you do get it to grow out low tech it's not going to be very thick and instead be fairly patchy. There are other low tech carpet plants. But personally I don't think they look nearly as good.

I think the light sand is a good idea. If you still wanted to have the roots of your plants in some kind of nutritious substrate, you could cap it with the sand and just plant everything deep enough to go into the substrate below.

Eco complete unfortunately not as nutritious as it's advertised. Learned that after buying it. You're paying extra for crushed lava rock basically. I still use root tabs in mine. And I thought sand capping a more nutritious substrate seemed fine but the sand just works it's way down and clogs up everything.

 

[mbjr11]

Okay I will proceed with PFS and root tabs possibly along with Fluorish.

Seems like I might need to set up CO2 to get the look I am going for. Would my current lighting be sufficient for a high tech tank or would I need to add more?

Just leaving the fish shop. Got the stand and my driftwood

It will require me setting up the tank opposite of what I had pictured (driftwood on right hand side) but the piece was too good to pass up. I’ll get a picture up when I get it in the tank.

 

[Danny002]

That piece is awesome! I think the corys and the cardinals will probably end up getting the most use out of it.

 

[wrs2]

OMG I want that wood! It's awesome looking!

 

[mbjr11]

That piece is awesome! I think the corys and the cardinals will probably end up getting the most use out of it.

They definitely will. I think the piece should fit perfectly with what I was picturing.

 

[86 ssinit]

Great piece of wood! But it’s big!!
With rev on the eco. It’s garbage. As to carpeting plants as mentioned will need co2 but much worse being your going discus you will be vacuuming the tank daily. Planted discus tank means more work. Discus need clean water and plants just seem to hold a lot of garbage. So I vacuume at every water change. So thats every other day. Carpeting just won’t work.
I don’t like sand. I use regular gravel. 1/8” size any color. I use walnut. Plants grow great. I use the flourish brand ferts with api co2 booster added daily. Root tabs for the swords and crypts as needed. For lighting I have used the finnex 24/7 planted plus. It’s a great light. Also use and much cheaper the finnex HLC. It’s a newer finnex and I think it’s better than the pp. Also I use vivagrow 24/7 lights. Best bang for the buck . For a 75 you will need 2 lights for good growth. My tank is a 125.

 

[mbjr11]

Okay after much thought I think I'm going to pass on the discus dream for now and maybe do a bare bottom tank in the future. I really love the look of tanks with a massive school of cardinal tetras so I might bump the quantity up to 40 of them. As much as I didn't want to it looks like I might need to add pressurized CO2 to get the DHG to carpet how I was wanting.

I ordered a 48" Vivagrow 24/7 and I think the Finnex Planted+ 24/7 combined with the Vivagrow 24/7 should provide me with enough lighting.

Now to research CO2 packages for my tank along with a few different tank mates for the cardinal tetras and cories. Maybe some Dwarf Gouramis.

I am looking at this kit from CO2art Pro-SE Series Complete Aquarium CO2 System with in-tank Flux_ Diffuser

To make this a fully automated system I would need a pH controller correct? Or do you think I'm okay just running it on a timer.

 

[86 ssinit]

Sorry I don’t use co2. But to the finnex the HLC to me is a better light and cheaper. All the same options as the planted plus. Good luck on your build.

 

[mbjr11]

Moving forward with the CO2art kit with the large in tank diffuser (since I don't have a canister filter to run in-line). Going to give them a call when they open and figure out if I will need a powerhead near the diffuser.

Decided against the pH controller and just going to use a simple timer and run the CO2 from an hour before lights kick on to an hour before lights kick off.

Going to pick up a 10lb bottle from a local brewhouse this evening.

Hoping to have the tank painted, all equipment in place (except for CO2 - will probably take a week or two to come in), substrate in with driftwood aligned how I'd like, and ready for plants come middle of next week.

 

[86 ssinit]

Sounds great. Please continue posting your build. I’m interested in the co2 build.

I think it’s been said allready and I know your moving away from discus. But the black background will pepper the pigeon blood discus. Many are from pigeon blood stock. So if down the line you want to add discus just stay with the blues and solid reds. Also what would look nice with that wood would be some angelfish and some gbr. Both would work well with your cardinals.

 

[mbjr11]

Yes great advice from you and Rev on the peppering of the discus. I think I am officially moving away from discus and will decide on dwarf gouramis/GBR or a mixture of the two at some point in the near future.

I have a Hydor Koralia Nano 425 on the way as well that will sit on top of my ceramic diffuser and disperse the CO2 throughout my tank.

Now I'm thinking about how a nice school of Celestial Pearl Danios would look with the Tetras and cories.

Something like this:
30 Cardinal Tetras
12 Sterbai Cory Cats
15-20 CPDs
2-4 Dwarf Gourami/German Blue Ram

I believe the filtration should be fine but if it proves to be too little I will add another Aquaclear 110.

 

[mbjr11]

Really productive day today. Painted the back and right side of the tank black, repeatedly rinsed the drift wood, sprinkled in my osmocote, put in my sand, put in the driftwood, picked up the CO2 cylinder, and put the filter and heater in place. One of the lights is coming in tomorrow and I should be able to get a little better pictures but here’s a few from the process today.

Just ordered all my plants.

3 - Amazon Swords
6 - Alternanthera Reineckii Mini tissue culture
1 - Alternanthera Rosanervig tissue culture
9 - Dwarf Hairgrass Mini tissue culture

Here’s a picture of the tank with iphone lights on top.

 

[mbjr11]

Got the lights in and on. This Finnex is very bright. Can’t wait to get the plants in.

 

[mbjr11]

All planted. Just waiting on CO2 to come in. Hopefully soon.

 

[Ash1176]

Tank looking great, That driftwood is amazing, good find! The only thing I would say with the dwarf gourami is it might rip up the dwarf hair grass, mine sure did and when I looked it into this i found out I wasn’t the only one, I eventually gave up on the dwarf hair grass, it kept being ripped up and replanting was getting tiring, as it didn’t get a chance to root. Went with helanthium and staurogyne in the end, and those grown great without co2.
GBR’s look amazing and require temps above 80 so you have the right tank mates with cardinals and sterbai’s
Looking for ward to see more of this tank

 

[mbjr11]

Thank you! Good advice on the dwarf gourami, I’ll have to steer away from them. Still several weeks out from adding fish.

Got the CO2 up and running yesterday. Need to do a big water change from the tannins in this driftwood. It doesn’t look bad, just a dark tea color. The fish are going to love it.

 

[Chanyi]

Good looking start, I'll throw in a few suggestions:

Get the plants growing well and thriving, get a good water change routine in order, get a good fertilizer dosing routine in order, and once that is complete, the tank will be able to sustain a few fish. No formal cycle required. Obviously watching parameters is a must here.

For CO2, ensure CO2 is dropping the pH of the tank water a full 1.0 – 1.2. To do this, measure the pH of tank water with no CO2 dissolved in it, and then measure again 2-3 hours after CO2 has been running. Ensure the drop in pH is a full 1.0-1.2. If the drop is not there yet, slowly up CO2 over a few weeks until at least a 1.0 drop is achieved, and watch fish / livestock carefully. Adjust CO2 down if you notice fish gasping at the surface and consider running an airstone at night when pushing a 1.2 or greater drop. For example, a tank water pH of 7.5 with no CO2 dissolved in it, should reach a pH of 6.5 – 6.3 for CO2 to really shine, and for maximum plant health.

Consistency in CO2 levels is key to plant health. Keep CO2 levels as stable as possible once a desirable level has been reached. Running CO2 on a timer is perfectly fine, obviously running it on a pH controller is best, but it's not needed for success. While there are no fish in the tank is the perfect place for trial and error to achieve the most out of your CO2 system.

Run lights 5-6 hours a day max, to start. Algae loves new tanks, and reduced lighting off the start is a very wise move. After the plants are settled in and growing nicely, you can increase the amount of time the lights are on very solely over a few weeks (1/2 hour increments) to about 8 hours per day.


What is your water source?
What is your planned water change routine?
Do you know your degassed pH, your kH and your gH levels?
Have you decided on a fertilizer dosing routine yet?
What size CO2 tank do you have?
How much CO2 are you planning on starting off with? Anything larger than 30 or so gallons and bubble counters are impossible to count... A Dwyer RMA-151-SSV flow meter would be a great addition to your CO2 system.

 

[Chad8282]

Anyone know where I could find could big pieces of wood like that I’d like one for a 40 breeder that stretches across majority of the length of tank