I had to do a 75 water change, high ammonia

Yes you can use that kind of product on an empty tank as long as you throughly clean the glass afterwards. Short answer it’s a lot of work and there is no guarantee it will completely fix a deep scratch.
Turning the tank around so the scratches are at the back is a one day job.

 

If the scratch is inside you will have to completely empty the tank and start over.

 

These are little scratches, not sure i anyone can see it or not.

 

Most times you just have to live with them and be more careful in the future. All of my tanks have a scratch somewhere. I dont think you can remove them easily.

 

Do these look like baby guppies? Sorry kind of blurry it was hard to get a good shot ,they swim really fast.

 

What fish are in your tank?

 

What fish are in your tank?

10 glo fish tetras, 3 guppies, and three Tetras. I have a 20 gallon tank. On tue i get my test strips, to see how my water is doing. I will post the results here. I was told these fish are Endlers Livebearers

 

10 glo fish tetras, 3 guppies, and three Tetras. I have a 20 gallon tank. On tue i get my test strips, to see how my water is doing. I will post the results here. I was told these fish are Endlers Livebearers

They are Endler babies then.

 

My level readding for fish tank
nitrate 0
nitrite 0
ph 7.5
kh 80
180 gh
amonia 3.0

I know the ammonia level is high. i did a 50 percent water change, but my water still has high ammonia is still high. So what do i do? i already have fish. i added ammonia blocker to the tank, to see if that helps. Seems to me my tank has not cycled yet. I tested my tap water and the ammonia is very high.

 

My level readding for fish tank
nitrate 0
nitrite 0
ph 7.5
kh 80
180 gh
amonia 3.0

I know the ammonia level is high. i did a 50 percent water change, but my water still has high ammonia is still high. So what do i do? i already have fish. i added ammonia blocker to the tank, to see if that helps. Seems to me my tank has not cycled yet. I tested my tap water and the ammonia is very high.

As we’ve talked about before, I’d suggest you stop using the ammonia blocker as it will likely affect the cycling process. But don’t stop using it until AFTER you do what I’m going to suggest below.

The only way to reduce the ammonia level is with water changes. Was the 3.0 ppm ammonia level after the water change?

I’d suggest you do another 50% water change. Your goal should be to get the ammonia level down to 0.50 ppm. Do 50% water changes every couple hours until the ammonia level reaches 0.50 ppm.

Remember to temperature match the water you’re adding to the tank water temperature and to use your water conditioner at each water change.

Sorry if I’ve asked this already, but have you tested your tap water for ammonia?

 

As we’ve talked about before, I’d suggest you stop using the ammonia blocker as it will likely affect the cycling process. But don’t stop using it until AFTER you do what I’m going to suggest below.

The only way to reduce the ammonia level is with water changes. Was the 3.0 ppm ammonia level after the water change?

I’d suggest you do another 50% water change. Your goal should be to get the ammonia level down to 0.50 ppm. Do 50% water changes every couple hours until the ammonia level reaches 0.50 ppm.

Remember to temperature match the water you’re adding to the tank water temperature and to use your water conditioner at each water change.

Sorry if I’ve asked this already, but have you tested your tap water for ammonia?

Yes my water is still 3.0 after water change. Yes i tested my tap water ,and the ammonia level, was more than 3.0. I will do water changes, until my ammonia goes down.

 

Yes my water is still 3.0 after water change. Yes i tested my tap water ,and the ammonia level, was more than 3.0. I will do water changes, until my ammonia goes down.

Can you test your tap water for ammonia now and post a picture of the test result?

 

Can you test your tap water for ammonia now and post a picture of the test result?

 

Yes my water is still 3.0 after water change. Yes i tested my tap water ,and the ammonia level, was more than 3.0. I will do water changes, until my ammonia goes down.

The test result picture you posted is a bit difficult for me to see, but. . .

If your tap water contains 3.0 ppm of ammonia, that complicates things as water changes won’t bring the ammonia level down to a “typically” safe level. The potentially good news is that your pH level reduces the toxicity of ammonia, but the level in your tap water is still a concern.

Although there are some more complicated options available to you, I’m gonna tag Flyfisha to make sure I’m not missing a simple option.

 

Do you have an alternative water source? Tap water with 3.0ppm ammonia is going to be difficult to work with.

 

I went to the pet store and they tested my water here are my test results from my tap water.
Ammonia 0.50
ph 7.2
tank water
Ammonia 0.25
ph 7.2
nittate 18 ppm
the test strips I bought were not acc

 

I went to the pet store and they tested my water here are my test results from my tap water.
Ammonia 0.50
ph 7.2
tank water
Ammonia 0.25
ph 7.2
nittate 18 ppm

You just took them a sample of your tap AND tank water? Any idea what brand of test kit or test strips they used? And what brand of test strips are you using?

If I’m being honest with you, it’s really difficult to suggest next steps to you given these very different test results.

 

You just took them a sample of your tap AND tank water? Any idea what brand of test kit or test strips they used? And what brand of test strips are you using?

If I’m being honest with you, it’s really difficult to suggest next steps to you given these very different test results.

The pet store used the API Water Test Kit
Fresh water master test kit.
I used Tetra Easy Strips Complete Aquarium Test Kit
Yes, I took in tap water and tank water.
My fish are swimming around and they look healthy.

 

I went to the pet store and they tested my water here are my test results from my tap water.
Ammonia 0.50
ph 7.2
tank water
Ammonia 0.25
ph 7.2
nittate 18 ppm
the test strips I bought were not acc

The pet store used the API Water Test Kit
Fresh water master test kit.
I used Tetra Easy Strips Complete Aquarium Test Kit
Yes, I took in tap water and tank water.
My fish are swimming around and they look healthy.

Although I hesitate a bit given some of the other things your pet store has told you, I trust the API Master Test kit. So I’m going to take another stab at this. . .

Because I don’t think the pet store tested nitrites (you don’t mention nitrites in your post) and assuming you’ve only done the one water change earlier today, I’d suggest you do one more 50% water change tonight.

Are you able to take another water sample to the pet store tomorrow and ask them to test your ammonia AND nitrite (not nitrate) levels? Write down the results and post them here tomorrow?

 

Although I hesitate a bit given some of the other things your pet store has told you, I trust the API Master Test kit. So I’m going to take another stab at this. . .

Because I don’t think the pet store tested nitrites (you don’t mention nitrites in your post) and assuming you’ve only done the one water change earlier today, I’d suggest you do one more 50% water change tonight.

Are you able to take another water sample to the pet store tomorrow and ask them to test your ammonia AND nitrite (not nitrate) levels? Write down the results and post them here tomorrow?

I will have to take my water in wed.. I will for now give you my test results for tonight from my test kit. my nitrite is o
but I am sure the pet store will have a different reading. The pet store told me not to do another water change as that could stress out my fish.

 

Hi Donna welcome to the forum, looks like some very helpful and capable members have your back in this thread.

May I suggest, when you go to the store, ask the clerk to write down the exact numbers for:
ammonia
nitrite
nitrate
pH

Or maybe write that down and just ask them to put the #
They should be happy to do that for you.

 

Hi Donna welcome to the forum, looks like some very helpful and capable members have your back in this thread.

May I suggest, when you go to the store, ask the clerk to write down the exact numbers for:
ammonia
nitrite
nitrate
pH

Or maybe write that down and just ask them to put the #
They should be happy to do that for you.

So far the pet store told me the following
Ammornia 0.25
ph 7.2
nitrate is 18 ppm
I just need to know what my nitrite numbers are,

 

So far the pet store told me the following
Ammonia 0.25
ph 7.2
nittate 18 ppm

That's a start but since you're cycling with fish those numbers (except maybe the pH) will change as the nitrogen cycle progresses

 

That's a start but since you're cycling with fish those numbers (except maybe the pH) will change as the nitrogen cycle progresses

'When I get payed.. I am going to get the master test kit. The test strips are not very accurate. I am also go to the pet store to get my water checked out, as well.

 

This tank seems fine and has happy healthy fish with no stress.

The water from the tap has some ammonia but in post #56 we see that the tank is lower in ammonia than the tap which means the tank is processing ammonia. And we see it is making nitrates so the cycle may be complete.

The pH is neutral so ammonia is not toxic until much higher levels than measured. We should not be worried about ammonia poisoning with 7.2 pH water.

OP I say stop running around, stop testing, stop changing water and just enjoy your fish tank! And your baby fish! If fish are making babies, then your water must be good!!

Buying the big API test kit is a waste since you will use it a few times and it will expire with the bottles all full. These master test kits are for stores that test hundreds of times.

 

This tank seems fine and has happy healthy fish with no stress.

The water from the tap has some ammonia but in post #56 we see that the tank is lower in ammonia than the tap which means the tank is processing ammonia. And we see it is making nitrates so the cycle may be complete.

The pH is neutral so ammonia is not toxic until much higher levels than measured. We should not be worried about ammonia poisoning with 7.2 pH water.

OP I say stop running around, stop testing, stop changing water and just enjoy your fish tank! And your baby fish! If fish are making babies, then your water must be good!!

Buying the big API test kit is a waste since you will use it a few times and it will expire with the bottles all full. These master test kits are for stores that test hundreds of times.

I think you’ve mis-read and/or not read several posts.

Sorry, but suggesting that the OP stop testing based on what we know and what we don’t know (nitrite level, as just one example) is irresponsible IMO.

 

In post #60 she reports 0 nitrites.

 

In post #60 she reports 0 nitrites.

She also says her test strips are inaccurate, which seems to be confirmed by the pet store test results.

There are wide-ranging and conflicting test results throughout this thread. I think there’s also been some confusion about nitrites vs. nitrates (use of the words).

 

The strips may not be precise, but the strips are OK for measuring zero. They don't tend to give false negatives.

 

The strips may not be precise, but the strips are OK for measuring zero. They don't tend to give false negatives.

You’re much more confident about where this tank’s at than I am. But let’s not derail the OP’s thread. . . There’s already a fair amount of confusion.

donnabright2002 I stand by my suggestions. . . I would not advise you to stop testing at this point.

 

It looks like the ammonia in her source water has caused it to appear that her tank was not cycled, but in fact it is.

At 7.2 pH, the ammonia even at 3.0 will not harm the fish, even the fry, and the cycle will take it down rapidly as she has measured.

I suggest that going forward, with ammonia in the tap, always do only partial water changes and don't go over 50% in one day. That will keep ammonia levels safe.

 

It looks like the ammonia in her source water has caused it to appear that her tank was not cycled, but in fact it is.

At 7.2 pH, the ammonia even at 3.0 will not harm the fish, even the fry, and the cycle will take it down rapidly as she has measured.

I suggest that going forward, with ammonia in the tap, always do only partial water changes and don't go over 50% in one day. That will keep ammonia levels safe.

This will be my last comment. . . Again, we’re causing unnecessary confusion in an already confusing situation.

There are no fry in the tank. If you’re interested in helping, please re-read all the posts (2 separate threads I think) very carefully.

 

OP, you started this tank back in October using existing media, and have reported back on Nov 17, that it was cycled based on your fish store testing. You have happy fish. The ammonia in your source water has led to some confusion and caused you to think that it is not cycled.

Many folks have aquariums that use tap water with some ammonia in it. Ammonia is natural and the fish are well adapted to handling the low levels in your water as you can see.

Enjoy your fish!

 

OP, you started this tank back in October using existing media, and have reported back on Nov 17, that it was cycled based on your fish store testing. You have happy fish. The ammonia in your source water has led to some confusion and caused you to think that it is not cycled.

Many folks have aquariums that use tap water with some ammonia in it. Ammonia is natural and the fish are well adapted to handling the low levels in your water as you can see.

Enjoy your fish!

Thank you. Yay my fish tank has cycled, but one thing remains. Why are my fish test strips, way off, from the test at the pet shop? 0.25 is a big difference, from 3.0, for ammonia. What do I believe?

 

Is it possible the test strips have not been stored in an air tight container ?

Using a jar with a lid is recommended to keep moisture off paper strips.

 

Is it possible the test strips have not been stored in an air tight container ?

Using a jar with a lid is recommended to keep moisture off paper strips.

The test strips are new, the strips came in bottle, with a lid.

 

This is why I think it would still be a good idea to invest in a master test kit. You can do it yourself and not have to question the accuracy of test strips or the competence of pet shop staff. Even though it appears that the tank is cycled I still think it’s a worthwhile investment for someone who has ammonia in their tap water.

 

The only problem I have with the master test kit, is that I have shaky hands, and it would be hard for me to use. I need accurate test strips. or go the pet store, to get my water tested.

 

The only problem I have with the master test kit, is that I have shaky hands, and it would be hard for me to use. I need accurate test strips. or go the pet store, to get my water tested.

Ok. I don't have any experience with test strips so I don't know which are the best. It might be a topic for a separate thread if you can't find info elsewhere.

 

Thank you. Yay my fish tank has cycled, but one thing remains. Why are my fish test strips, way off, from the test at the pet shop? 0.25 is a big difference, from 3.0, for ammonia. What do I believe?

Believe both.

In the time it takes you to transport the sample to the store, the ammonia level has dropped.

This is because your water company uses chloramines. Chloramines quickly leave, but show up as ammonia on your water tests temporarily.

You can try this. Test your tap water. Then put it in a glass and let it sit out for a day. Then test again. You should see the same effect, that the ammonia levels as tested drop over time! This is because your chloramines have left the water. They leave as a gas, but this takes time. You can hurry it up by aerating the water to cause faster gas exchange at the surface.