I had to do a 75 water change, high ammonia

I went to the pet store. I was told my ammonia was high. and so was my ph levels. I was told to do a 75 percent water change. So I did. I have a 20.. tall aquarium. Is there anything more I can do to prevent the high ammonia? Or was it just a water change good enough?

 

I went to the pet store. I was told my ammonia was high. and so was my ph levels. I was told to do a 75 percent water change. So I did. I have a 20.. tall aquarium. Is there anything more I can do to prevent the high ammonia? Or was it just a water change good enough?

Your tank is apparently not cycled. What exactly was the ammonia level? Did they also test nitrites and nitrates? What is your pH?

As I suggested in another thread you created, you should invest in the API Master Test kit. If you’re not already using it, I’d also suggest Seachem Prime as your water conditioner.

The only way to protect your fish in an uncycled tank is to test daily and change enough water to keep the combined level of ammonia and nitrites at or below 0.50 ppm.

 

Your tank is apparently not cycled. What exactly was the ammonia level? Did they also test nitrites and nitrates? What is your pH?

The lady at the pet shop did not tell me what the levels were. She just said the ammonia and ph was high. I do not know if she tested for nitrates. I will go to amazon and get me a test kit. They did not have the test strips. They were out of test kits. at the pet shop. The lady at pet shop told me to come back in a few days to test my water again.

 

The lady at the pet shop did not tell me what the levels were. She just said the ammonia and ph was high. I do not know if she tested for nitrates. I will go to amazon and get me a test kit. They did not have the test strips. They were out of test kits. at the pet shop.

Here’s a link to help. . .
https://www.amazon.com/API-FRESHWATER-800-Test-Freshwater-Aquarium/dp/B000255NCI/ref=sr_1_2?crid=Q32M4KIUWHTF&keywords=api+freshwater+master+test+kit&qid=1668825623&sprefix=API+,aps,84&sr=8-2

Until you get a test kit, is it possible for you to take a couple water samples to the fish store again tomorrow? Ask them to test ammonia, nitrites and nitrates and to tell you the test results (so you can post them here)?

Knowing the exact test results will allow us to tell you how much (and how often) water to change until your test kit arrives.

If you can‘t make it to the fish store tomorrow, I’d suggest at least 50% daily water changes until your test kit arrives.

Make sense?

Also, have you had your source/tap water tested for ammonia?

 

Hi donnabright2002,

Sorry for this, but exactly why I said on the last thread not to trust that the people at the petstore know what they are doing. Sometimes they just fake it until they make it, because maybe they are a cashier that needs a job, or they like dogs or cats, but know nothing about fish and get assigned to work that area.

As far as your tank goes, you have tetras I believe, something like 13 tetras and 3 guppies?
16 small fish in a 20g.
It's good you are getting a test kit but it has to get to you first.

What I will do is advise you of fish in cycling water changing, that predates all this water testing.
What you'll need to do is a daily 25%-50% water change, every single day. Try to keep it routine, time in the morning or time in the evening, where you usually have 15mins to half an hour of time to push through a water change. Don't worry about cleaning or vacuum, just change out water and use dechlorinator for the new water.

If you can check periodically, 25% is fine, if you can't check for a long stretch of the day like going to work or out for the evening 50% would buy you more time. You'd be looking for the fish to be acting normal, and if they aren't, and are sitting around lethargic or puffing or spinning in circles or bumping into things or at the surface only, do another water change.

It's how we used to do it. Daily waterchange and monitor, and when in doubt or fish acting strange, water change some more.

When you get your test kit you can find out the ammonia and the goal would be to keep it below 0.5ppm. You should also test and find out your pH.

Stick with me here this is a little complicated bit useful to know to take some of the mystery out of ammonia.
At pH6 nearly all ammonia that shows up is actually ammonium, like 97+%, and its a larger particle than ammonia that fish don't easily absorb, ammonia is a small particle fish can take it up easily and it hurts them.

At pH7 about 5% of the ammonia showing up on a test is as ammonia, the other 95% is ammonium.
At pH 8 about 10% of the ammonia that shows up on the test is ammonia, and not ammonium. At pH 9, 50% of it is ammonia and 50% ammonium. Higher than that, it's just all ammonia.

What I'm saying is pH matters how much of the ammonia on the test is actual ammonia which is easily absorbed by the fish and far more dangerous, and how much of it is ammonium which is far less dangerous to the fish.

Ammonia starts doing damage at 0.05 ppm and becomes deadly at around 0.10 ppm. Assuming your tank is somewhere between 6.5 and 7.5 pH like most peoples tanks are, roughly 5% of what shows on the test is as ammonia, so if the test reads 1ppm, the ammonia, as ammonia, is likely 0.05 ppm, the other 0.95ppm is ammonium which isn't anywhere near as toxic because it's not easily absorbed.

Because you can't test or trust what the store is telling you, when it doubt, water change, and water change 2x a day if the fish start acting strange later in the day. Water changes don't hurt the fish.

When you can test, you can know your ammonia level ( people all recommend keeping the ammonia test at 0.5 ppm and water changing by 1ppm... makes sense) and then test your pH and then set a water change plan that keeps you safe and reduces the amount of ammonia build up and doesn't just flat out waste water and time.

I wish you the best of luck. Sorry it's going sideways on you.

 

I talk to lady at pet store and she told me not to do another water change. but people here to me to do water changes. 'i can do 50 percent water change, daily, until test kit comes in the mail. I do not think doing daily water changes would hurt anything. I do have to say when 'i did 75 percent water change, that water change, that my tank water looks cleaner. it took care of the cloudy water.

I talk to lady at pet store and she told me not to do another water change. but people here to me to do water changes. 'i can do 50 percent water change, daily, until test kit comes in the mail. I do not think doing daily water changes would hurt anything. I do have to say when 'i did 75 percent water change, that water change, that my tank water looks cleaner. it took care of the cloudy water. I also added ammonia block to my tank water.

 

Hi donnabright2002

I have read all your previous posts but I have not posted to you before.

I would just like to say in regards to your last post and water changes.

It is completely safe to change up to 50% of the water at one time replacing with temperature matched conditioned water. Daily water changes are no problem.

Now the difficult statement.
Many old time fish keepers believe in “ good water “
This is an outdated belief from 40 years ago before anyone understood the nitrogen cycle.
It would seem America has a lot of people that believe in good water and do not want to know anything new or modern.
Trust me when I say Australia has a few old timers that also talk of good water. I suggest you walk away from any shop owner that is afraid to change some water often?
I also suggest you let anyone keep fish anyway they want to . Everyone should be allowed to believe whatever they like.

I would also like to say the shop owner who lead you to believe the 3 week old tank was cycled in your first post made a mistake or is badly informed ?

Don’t worry if the cloudy water returns.
Its often a sign of an immature colony of bacteria.

 

I talk to lady at pet store and she told me not to do another water change. but people here to me to do water changes. 'i can do 50 percent water change, daily, until test kit comes in the mail. I do not think doing daily water changes would hurt anything.

Not only will water changes not “hurt anything”, they are not optional in an uncycled tank with fish in it.

Despite the (bad) advice you’ve received from the fish store, I continue to suggest 50% daily water changes until your test kit arrives. Be sure to use water conditioner at each water change and temperature match the water you’re adding to the tank water temperature.

When your test kit arrives, the test results will determine how much and when water needs changed.

Maybe just for my curiosity, did the fish store test your tank water again today? If so, did you get the exact test results?

 

Not only will water changes not “hurt anything”, they are not optional in an uncycled tank with fish in it.

Despite the (bad) advice you’ve received from the fish store, I continue to suggest 50% daily water changes until your test kit arrives. Be sure to use water conditioner at each water change and temperature match the water you’re adding to the tank water temperature.

When your test kit arrives, the test results will determine how much and when water needs changed.

Maybe just for my curiosity, did the fish store test your tank water again today? If so, did you get the exact test results?

The fish store is closed, they open Monday, until then, I will do 50 percent water change, until my test kit arrives. Thanks for all your help. I like doing water changes, it is fun to do, and I am sure my Fishie's do not mind.
Can i put tap water in my filter?

 

Can i put tap water in my filter?

All water must have had a conditioner added before being put in a filter or fish tank.

 

Can i put tap water in my filter?

All water must have had a conditioner added before being put in a filter or fish tank.

Before you got back to me, I put tap water in my filter. After I got your reply... I dumped the water out, and I replaced it with the fishes tank water. Thanks for letting me know. I would have used conditioner, but It ran out, I ordered more conditioner on Amazon.

 

I went to the pet store today. The lady told me my Nitrates was a little off, but everything looked fine. I cant wait to get my own test kit so i can see for my self.

 

Water supply companies put chlorine in tap water to kill bacteria. The chlorine is safe for us to drink but kills fish and kills the good bacteria in our filters. For this reason all water used in an aquarium must have a conditioner added .

Having a bottle of conditioner on hand always just in case we need it is a good idea.

 

Why did she bit tell you the numbers and why didn't you ask? What does "a little bit off" mean? I'm a Discus breeder so I'm obsessive about WC. Discus get at least a 30% WC daily, more often 50%. The less picky fish that I breed generally get a 30% WC daily. Every fish in my fishroom is healthy. Every time I turn around there is another pair spawning.

 

Why did she bit tell you the numbers and why didn't you ask? What does "a little bit off" mean? I'm a Discus breeder so I'm obsessive about WC. Discus get at least a 30% WC daily, more often 50%. The less picky fish that I breed generally get a 30% WC daily. Every fish in my fishroom is healthy. Every time I turn around there is another pair spawning.

I forgot to ask for the numbers. I'm getting my own test kit soon, with in the next few days. I go tomorrow to get my water tested again. I will ask for the numbers. Hopefully I do not forget to ask again. They also did not test the ammonia levels, They tested my water with test strips. The lady tomorrow will have the test kit. Which is more accurate. Her mom was not in the store today, she will be in tomorrow.

 

I forgot to ask for the numbers. I'm getting my own test kit soon, with in the next few days. I go tomorrow to get my water tested again. I will ask for the numbers. Hopefully I do not forget to ask again. They also did not test the ammonia levels, They tested my water with test strips. The lady tomorrow will have the test kit. Which is more accurate. Her mom was not in the store today, she will be in tomorrow.

Please ask them to test ammonia, nitrites, nitrates and pH. And to write the results down for you. Remember. . . These results will tell us how much water you need to change.

Have you been doing water changes? How often and how much? How are your fish doing?

 

Please ask them to test ammonia, nitrites, nitrates and pH. And to write the results down for you. Remember. . . These results will tell us how much water you need to change.

Have you been doing water changes? How often and how much? How are your fish doing?

I have not been doing water changes. The lady at the store told me not to. I'm doing water changes every 2 weeks. like 50 percent every two weeks. I will ask the people at the pet store to write down all the results. My Fish are doing fine. They eat and are very active. They look fine, as well.

 

Why did she bit tell you the numbers and why didn't you ask? What does "a little bit off" mean? I'm a Discus breeder so I'm obsessive about WC. Discus get at least a 30% WC daily, more often 50%. The less picky fish that I breed generally get a 30% WC daily. Every fish in my fishroom is healthy. Every time I turn around there is another pair spawning.

Yes! I'm a bit obsessive about waterchanging now also and I don't keep discus, I do overstock though, and 2x 50% a week works great for me. I just noticed with my angelfish the more I water changed the better they looked and the healthier they stayed. I'd say it's not all fish but I do think the Amazon river fish can benefit from almost excessive water changes. I feel like if I waited 2 weeks to change some water I'd be dealing with constant problems.

I didn't see water changes as important starting out and for a long while, trying to save water, being lazy, it makes a huge difference though, I see it now.
I'm still nowhere near ready to take care of discus though!

 

You really don't need to be running to the store to test your water all the time. That time is much better spent just doing a water change.

The answer to a bad test result is always just to do a water change. So until your test kit comes in, just keep doing a large water change every day. If it were me, I'd do 75%. Even if your ammonia is as high as 3ppm, a 75% water change will bring it down to a relatively safe level.

You mentioned in another thread that using the liquid test may be difficult because your hands shake. So I want to point out that the strips work well enough. They aren't as accurate, but we don't need to know the exact numbers. What we need to know is simple... Is there any ammonia? If there is, the strips will show that, and you do a big water change. If there isn't, the strips will show that as well, and you don't need to do anything. Whether its 0.5, or 3ppm, a 75% water change will take care of it.

 

You really don't need to be running to the store to test your water all the time. That time is much better spent just doing a water change.

The answer to a bad test result is always just to do a water change. So until your test kit comes in, just keep doing a large water change every day. If it were me, I'd do 75%. Even if your ammonia is as high as 3ppm, a 75% water change will bring it down to a relatively safe level.

You mentioned in another thread that using the liquid test may be difficult because your hands shake. So I want to point out that the strips work well enough. They aren't as accurate, but we don't need to know the exact numbers. What we need to know is simple... Is there any ammonia? If there is, the strips will show that, and you do a big water change. If there isn't, the strips will show that as well, and you don't need to do anything. Whether its 0.5, or 3ppm, a 75% water change will take care of

I decided to order the test strips. It will take me about 5 days to have it delivered to me. I am doing water changes once a week, 50 percent water changes. Once I have the test results I will post here.

 

If you see the fish sitting on the substrate , swimming at the surface or any different behaviour at for goodness sake do a water change. Only a week ago the shop test said ammonia was present. Only uncycled tanks have ammonia.

Unless ammonia is in your tap water?

 

You’ve had fantastic advice here . The main advice is do a water change , im going to also back that up. Use a water dechorinator and get those water changes done !

you said you like doing them , so do I . I love doing work on my tanks , there’s nothing wrong with doing an extra water change in your situation. Think of it like opening a window and getting fresh air. Just temp match the best you can and dechorinate it and you’re good .
Your fishy friends will thank you for it !

 

I do not have anyway of knowing my water quality. I'm still wating for my test strips to come in from Amazon. I notice my fish hanging around the top of my tank. So I did a 50%n water change. Now my fish are not hanging around the top of the tank. I keep any eye on my fish often.

 

I do not have anyway of knowing my water quality. I'm still wating for my test strips to come in from Amazon. I notice my fish hanging around the top of my tank. So I did a 50%n water change. Now my fish are not hanging around the top of the tank. I keep any eye on my fish often.

We suggested daily water changes because. . .
1. You have no way of knowing your water quality until your test kit arrives.
2. Your pet store told you a week ago today that the ammonia level in your tank was high. Assuming this is true, your tank isn’t cycled and water changes are the only way to protect your fish.

If your pet store is telling you that ammonia levels are high but water changes aren’t necessary, you’re getting bad (or incomplete, at best) advice from them.

Has the pet store ever told you your water’s pH level?

 

I have a few water jugs I fill with water. I add water to the jugs, then, I fill with conditioner. I also add conditioner to my fish tank. Is this how this is done? Or do I add conditioner to the tank and not the jugs of water?

We suggested daily water changes because. . .
1. You have no way of knowing your water quality until your test kit arrives.
2. Your pet store told you a week ago today that the ammonia level in your tank was high. Assuming this is true, your tank isn’t cycled and water changes are the only way to protect your fish.

If your pet store is telling you that ammonia levels are high but water changes aren’t necessary, you’re getting bad (or incomplete, at best) advice from them.

Has the pet store ever told you your water’s pH level?

yes I will do 50 percent water changes daily, until my test kit arrives. Do i add ammonia blocker to my tank, or would this mess up my tank if it is cycling?

We suggested daily water changes because. . .
1. You have no way of knowing your water quality until your test kit arrives.
2. Your pet store told you a week ago today that the ammonia level in your tank was high. Assuming this is true, your tank isn’t cycled and water changes are the only way to protect your fish.

If your pet store is telling you that ammonia levels are high but water changes aren’t necessary, you’re getting bad (or incomplete, at best) advice from them.

Has the pet store ever told you your water’s pH level?

my ph was fine last time I went to the pet shop, but my nitrites were off the charts. And guess what. I was told not to do a water change.

 

I have a few water jugs I fill with water. I add water to the jugs, then, I fill with conditioner. I also add conditioner to my fish tank. Is this how this is done? Or do I add conditioner to the tank and not the jugs of water?

What brand of conditioner are you using?

Putting the conditioner in the jugs of water you’re adding should be fine, but what do the directions suggest?

Are you using the amount of conditioner suggested by the directions and matching the temperature of the water you’re adding to the tank water temperature?

Do i add ammonia blocker to my tank, or would this mess up my tank if it is cycling?

The only “chemical” I’d add to your tank is the water conditioner. I think I’ve previously suggested using Seachem Prime as your water conditioner. Don’t use products such as Ammo Lock as they can affect the cycling process.

my ph was fine last time I went to the pet shop, but my nitrites were off the charts.

Words like “fine” and “off the charts” aren’t helpful when referring to water parameters. When your test kit arrives, we’ll need the exact measurements in order to help you.

And guess what. I was told not to do a water change.

I don’t doubt that your pet store told you not to do a water change.

But as I said in my last post, if the pet store is telling you that ammonia levels are high (and nitrites are “off the charts?) but water changes aren’t necessary, you’re getting bad (or incomplete, at best) advice from them.

For whatever it’s worth, getting bad advice from pet stores isn’t uncommon in this hobby.

 

What brand of conditioner are you using?

Putting the conditioner in the jugs of water you’re adding should be fine, but what do the directions suggest?

Are you using the amount of conditioner suggested by the directions and matching the temperature of the water you’re adding to the tank water temperature?


The only “chemical” I’d add to your tank is the water conditioner. I think I’ve previously suggested using Seachem Prime as your water conditioner. Don’t use products such as Ammo Lock as they can affect the cycling process.


Words like “fine” and “off the charts” aren’t helpful when referring to water parameters. When your test kit arrives, we’ll need the exact measurements in order to help you.


I don’t doubt that your pet store told you not to do a water change.

But as I said in my last post, if the pet store is telling you that ammonia levels are high (and nitrites are “off the charts?) but water changes aren’t necessary, you’re getting bad (or incomplete, at best) advice from them.

For whatever it’s worth, getting bad advice from pet stores isn’t uncommon in this hobby.

I use API AQUA ESSENTIAL Water Conditioner 16 ounce bottle. I try to get the temperature just right by using my fingers in the tap water, but I also the conditioner in the jugs of water. Sometimes the water is a little off by a few degrees. Like the temp is 76 and when I use tap water it could be 80 degrees, or it could be a little cold by a few degrees. Is there a way to get the temp just right?

 

I use API AQUA ESSENTIAL Water Conditioner 16 ounce bottle.

Sorry if this is a dumb question, but you’re not using the entire bottle, are you?

Is there a way to get the temp just right?

Use a thermometer to measure the temperature of the water in your jugs and the tank water. Match them as close as possible.

 

Sorry if this is a dumb question, but you’re not using the entire bottle, are you?


Use a thermometer to measure the temperature of the water in your jugs and the tank water. Match them as close as possible.

I use a capful for each jug of water. Then I use a capful in the fish tank, is that too much? I usually use around 8 jugfuls. For 50 percent water change.

 

I use a capful for each jug of water. Then I use a capful in the fish tank, is that too much? I usually use around 8 jugfuls. For 50 percent water change.

That seems like way too much.

I’ve never used this conditioner, but according to API’s instructions. . . Using dosing cap on bottle, add 5 ml. per 50 gallons of aquarium water to treat tap water.

So if you’re doing 50% changes (10 gallons), that would only amount to about 1 ml of conditioner or 2 ml at most if API suggests dosing for your entire tank volume (check the instructions on bottle).

How many ml of conditioner is a full capful (there’s apparently a measure of some sort on the cap)?

 

That seems like way too much.

I’ve never used this conditioner, but according to API’s instructions. . . Using dosing cap on bottle, add 5 ml. per 50 gallons of aquarium water to treat tap water.

So if you’re doing 50% changes (10 gallons), that would only amount to about 1 ml of conditioner or 2 ml at most if API suggests dosing for your entire tank volume (check the instructions on bottle).

How many ml of conditioner is a full capful (there’s apparently a measure of some sort on the cap)?

I have a 20 gallon tank. there is a measuring cap ..10 mil is a capful. 5 mil is half capful. So do I stop putting water conditioner in the jugs, and just add to the tank? it says add 5mil per ten gallons. So do I add a capful for 20 gallons.?

 

There are two options for adding conditioner.
#1
Add enough conditioner for the complete volume of the tank before adding any fresh water.

#2
Add enough conditioner to the bucket ( jug) for its volume, about 2 ml per jug.

Option #1 is what people with large tanks do when filling straight out of a hose. 10 ml for 20 gallon tank
Option #2 is less wasteful of money on using more conditioner than necessary.

Hint
A medication syringe is a way of measuring conditioner accurately.

 

There are two options for adding conditioner.
#1
Add enough conditioner for the complete volume of the tank before adding any fresh water.

#2
Add enough conditioner to the bucket ( jug) for its volume, about 2 ml per jug.

Option #1 is what people with large tanks do when filling straight out of a hose. 10 ml for 20 gallon tank
Option #2 is less wasteful of money on using more conditioner than necessary.

Hint
A medication syringe is a way of measuring conditioner accurately.

So can i use method number 1, without doing method number 2?

 

So can i use method number 1, without doing method number 2?

Yes, that is the option I would use. Whichever option you choose, ignore the other option.

 

How often do I change my filter? I know I can wash it in tank water, but what happens, when it's time to change it? Do I leave the old filter in, and place it in with the new filter for a few days or a week? before I take the old filter out,,,

 

How often do I change my filter? I know I can wash it in tank water, but what happens, when it's time to change it? Do I leave the old filter in, and place it in with the new filter for a few days or a week? before I take the old filter out,,,

I’ll assume you’re asking about replacing a cartridge of some sort in your filter and not the filter itself. . .

Cartridges should not be replaced until they are literally falling apart, which typically takes several years. As you said and until it’s falling apart, just wash it off/swoosh it around in water removed from your tank.

What kind of filter do you have? Can you post a picture of it, including the cartridge/other media inside the filter?

 

I’ll assume you’re asking about replacing a cartridge of some sort in your filter and not the filter itself. . .

Cartridges should not be replaced until they are literally falling apart, which typically takes several years. As you said and until it’s falling apart, just wash it off/swoosh it around in water removed from your tank.

What kind of filter do you have? Can you post a picture of it, including the cartridge/other media inside the filter?

I have a whisper filter for a 20 gallon tank. Thanks for replying to my post.

 

I have a whisper filter for a 20 gallon tank. Thanks for replying to my post.

You’re welcome!

I assume the cartridge you asked about is the thing with the blue top? If so and as I said, there’s no need to replace it until it’s falling apart.

Just take it out of the filter every 3 - 4 weeks (or when you see the filter flow slowing) and swoosh it around in water removed from your tank.

 

You are getting the right advice donnabright2002 . I just want to say that although it seems strange l can assure you cartridges , foam , fabric or sponge are only replaced every few years. Only when falling apart. A sheet of foam sponge cut to size can usually slip in instead of a cartridge when the time comes to replace it.

In answer to your question in post #35 the old cartridge stays in the filter or in the flow of water near the outlet etc for as long as possible. Maybe 4 weeks if you can stand looking at it?

 

I have another question. I scratched my aquarium glass, when cleaning my aquarium. is there away to fix that, and if so could someone tell me how to fix that? thanks. could I use this product on my aquarium? https://www.amazon.com/Including-St...9027&sprefix=fix+aqurium+glass,aps,101&sr=8-8