Finally results for All tests, stock so don't all die again

KribensisLover1

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Hello!

Not even sure where my last post is bc it’s been a while.
I finally have my api kh and gh and TDS.

Quick background
I have a 26 gallon acrylic tank, Amazonia Ada version II Substrate, Chihiros B lamp, Sicce Whale 120 canister, Fluval heater, and a good amount of plants. Five peppered Cories that are tiny. That’s it. And they are being moved to a diff tank so basically an empty tank.


I had 18 Cardinal tetras. All wild caught all from same tank at the same store (purchased at diff times weeks apart but same batch they SAID).

The last group I got I also got 6 TINY peppered Cories. I did lose one Cory.

10 days later I get an ich outbreak in the cardinals only. They were still acting normal and eating. I treat 18 cardinal tetras once with 1/2 dose of rapid cure KORDON. All the cardinals die overnight. Water doesn’t turn blue and the snails are fine as are the Cories. I have five Cories that are thriving. They are very camouflaged in the substrate so I am moving them to a diff tank. Meaning I can start with any new fish they don’t have to be compatible.

Finally I have all test results (the tests were delayed).
Ph: tank 6.4, tap 8
Ammonia: 0
Nitrites: 0
Nitrates: 5-10
TDS: tank 196, tap 179

NEW RESULTS:
GH: TANK: 7 drops so low end of 100–200 PPM.
Tap: 9 drops, so middle of 100–200 ppm.

KH: TANK: 2 drops, so 0–50 PPM
Tap: 5 drops so high end of 50–100 PPM.

Are these GH and KH tank results mismatched?

VERY IMPT NOTE: the tank has a black background and dark brown substrate. The fish have to be BRIGHT to show up so that’s a MUST. I want the largest amount of bright schooling fish I can get.

I would LOVE to get online TANK RAISED Cardinal Tetras (instead of store bought wild caught which is what I had)
but some very wise people/person said the ph shock is dangeous from tap to tank (just the jump from 8 from tap to 6.4 in tank after a water change) and that’s why the former ones got sick and died. He said I’ll have to age the water which isn’t super convenient.
What do you recommend that is a schooling fish (basically I want A LOT or as many as I can get) that pops and is bright? I also want more Cories and I’m thinking albino or panda (I need to research parameters for both and temp but basically the schooling fish are what I’m prioritizing and the Cories I’ll get down the road depending on what can work with the schooling fish. ALSO the white snail eggs on the front acrylic are making me want to cry. Any recs to get rid of once and for all?
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1. Keep the corycats in this tank until you add more fish. They will keep the bb going and your cycle intact.
2. What I can see by your numbers is that your substrate is pulling down the pH and “eating” up your buffer (KH).
Tap pH 8 …goes to…6.4 in Tank
Tap KH 5 …goes to…2 in Tank. ***And I think these are short term numbers, not longterm. Imho, this IS your single biggest concern. The GH is in a pretty good zone if you will.
Before you add fish, work it out that your new water in WCs is the same, or nearer to the 6.4 in Tank. I mentioned one possibility of aging water in a container also having that substrate so that you’re putting fresh 6.4 pH water into a Tank already having 6.4 pH water. Whatever fish you end up choosing will more likely benefit and flourish with stable water parameters. If aging is a pain or not super convenient, replace your pH dropping substrate with an inert one and have a tank and tap with KH of 5 and pH of 8. That with your GH of 7-8, would be just fine….and Stable :)
3. If you want a striking flashy shoaling fish a bit tougher and a tad larger than CTs, consider the Diamond Tetra (Makunaima pittieri). They are not tight schoolers, but loose shoalers, are active all over, peaceful w appropriate tankmates, and really pop with the right lighting.
 

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1. Keep the corycats in this tank until you add more fish. They will keep the bb going and your cycle intact.
2. What I can see by your numbers is that your substrate is pulling down the pH and “eating” up your buffer (KH).
Tap pH 8 …goes to…6.4 in Tank
Tap KH 5 …goes to…2 in Tank. ***And I think these are short term numbers, not longterm. Imho, this IS your single biggest concern. The GH is in a pretty good zone if you will.
Before you add fish, work it out that your new water in WCs is the same, or nearer to the 6.4 in Tank. I mentioned one possibility of aging water in a container also having that substrate so that you’re putting fresh 6.4 pH water into a Tank already having 6.4 pH water. Whatever fish you end up choosing will more likely benefit and flourish with stable water parameters. If aging is a pain or not super convenient, replace your pH dropping substrate with an inert one and have a tank and tap with KH of 5 and pH of 8. That with your GH of 7-8, would be just fine….and Stable :)
3. If you want a striking flashy shoaling fish a bit tougher and a tad larger than CTs, consider the Diamond Tetra (Makunaima pittieri). They are not tight schoolers, but loose shoalers, are active all over, peaceful w appropriate tankmates, and really pop with the right lighting.
Oh I ADORE them and have 6 in my 64.8 gallon but I figured they’re way too large! How many could I get in the 26 gallon.

(and side note: if I have 6 in my 64.8 gallon and two small angels that are not getting bigger and one bn pleco and 1 bronze Cory full size and 2 albino Cory small (and I’ll be getting more as soon as I find albinos) how many more diamonds tetras can I get?).
 
Your substrate does seem to be causing some issues, making you tank water very different from the tap water, which for many fish may be a problem for water changes, and I am sure could have been the issue with the wild cardinals (though the Corydoras don't seem to mind...). You could do frequent small water changes instead of weekly larger ones, but that might be more inconvenient than aging water with the same substrate...

I love diamond tetras, but I do feel that they are a bit on the large size for a 26 gallon tank, you could not really have a big group of them (you could probably have a few more in the other tank). Something smaller would be better, but should be a hardy species, not a delicate one from very soft water. Cherry barbs are very pretty but I haven't kept them myself and not sure how big they get. Rainbowfish are another group that I don't have any experience with, but there are some nice looking small species in the genus Pseudomugil, and maybe others, that might be worth looking into. Black neon tetras are apparently hardy and although not exactly colorful could look quite striking on the dark background. Anyway, I'll give it some more thought. And why is it that you want to move the Corydoras?
 
If the Diamonds were the only species except for some corycats, 10-12 would be happy and, in a darker colored tank w the right lighting, would look awesome. I’ve had Cherry Barbs and they would be nice too. The sexual dimorphism (red males and tan females) is good for your color desires.
If….you work out the water parameter issues, trying TR CTs again would also be an option. I very well know, and relate, to the serene beauty of a shoal of CTs as I have a 33g tank with just CTs…..and, of course, a crew of corycats. And…finally…another pretty hardy, small, active, good shoaling, colorful fish to consider would be the Espei Rasbora. A group of 15-18 of those in a darker 26g would be cool. They’d have a coppery-orange glow to them. I also have these and really like them a lot.
Because I care……I’m going to just say again, getting that chemistry ironed out either way is going to make all the difference for you, no matter the fish you choose.
 
Yes, the chemistry situation is complicated...some other hardy tetras that might be worth considering are Pristella (X-ray) tetras, there is also a gold variety and Lemon tetras, both not exactly tiny but a little smaller than diamond tetras and known to be hardy, also glowlight tetras, they are smaller. All of these captive bred for many generations and I think any would look good against the dark background. Possibly one plan would be to to under stock the tank, have plenty of floating plants and just do small water changes with your tap water?
 

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  • #7
Your substrate does seem to be causing some issues, making you tank water very different from the tap water, which for many fish may be a problem for water changes, and I am sure could have been the issue with the wild cardinals (though the Corydoras don't seem to mind...). You could do frequent small water changes instead of weekly larger ones, but that might be more inconvenient than aging water with the same substrate...

I love diamond tetras, but I do feel that they are a bit on the large size for a 26 gallon tank, you could not really have a big group of them (you could probably have a few more in the other tank). Something smaller would be better, but should be a hardy species, not a delicate one from very soft water. Cherry barbs are very pretty but I haven't kept them myself and not sure how big they get. Rainbowfish are another group that I don't have any experience with, but there are some nice looking small species in the genus Pseudomugil, and maybe others, that might be worth looking into. Black neon tetras are apparently hardy and although not exactly colorful could look quite striking on the dark background. Anyway, I'll give it some more thought. And why is it that you want to move the Corydoras?
I LOVE Cories but you cannot see the peppered in this tank AT ALL. They have become darker so they are completely totally hidden. So I would like to get albinos or pandas. The issue is that the only other tank I have is large and very under stocked but also has ANGELS sooooo temp issues. I wish getting more peppered would help but until they swim up they’re too dark.
I love all neons but the greens I had were soooo skittish. Do you know if black ones are also? If I’ve asked before I am so sorry I have been into this rabbit hole now as you know for a while!!

If the Diamonds were the only species except for some corycats, 10-12 would be happy and, in a darker colored tank w the right lighting, would look awesome. I’ve had Cherry Barbs and they would be nice too. The sexual dimorphism (red males and tan females) is good for your color desires.
If….you work out the water parameter issues, trying TR CTs again would also be an option. I very well know, and relate, to the serene beauty of a shoal of CTs as I have a 33g tank with just CTs…..and, of course, a crew of corycats. And…finally…another pretty hardy, small, active, good shoaling, colorful fish to consider would be the Espei Rasbora. A group of 15-18 of those in a darker 26g would be cool. They’d have a coppery-orange glow to them. I also have these and really like them a lot.
Because I care……I’m going to just say again, getting that chemistry ironed out either way is going to make all the difference for you, no matter the fish you choose.
yes I really still want my cardinals lolol. I will say the tank situation is so weird bc it WILL change and it shouldn’t take THAT long for the nutrients to leech out. So it’s like is it worth changing substrate and uprooting all the plants and all when I think it’ll balance out in a few months? Hard to say. Ty for the awesome ideas! I’m looking now.
I think I’ll wait on diamonds only bc they are in the other tank but I am certainly getting more there. They’re really cool.
And I have had pristella in that tank that did super well BUT it was without the aquasoil so the ph wasn’t diff than the tap. However the tap water and other parameters suited them very very well. I put cichlids in with them and they did beautifully for a year and a half. Then the cichlids hit sexual maturity. 18 pristellas gone overnight. I was so confused and new to fish keeping and so I got a few more and watched the cichlids throw them in the air like great whites do with food. So awful.

Why is everything repeat posting and I can’t edit and delete?
 
I love all neons but the greens I had were soooo skittish. Do you know if black ones are also?
I haven't ever kept them, but they always look active and out and about in videos I have seen.
Why is everything repeat posting and I can’t edit and delete?
Yes its an issue, just refresh the page after. posting the first time and you will find what you wrote has posted.
 
Green neons need a decent sized group and preferably other nano fish to swim among. My 12 GNTs swim happily among the other 30 or so nano fish of different species in my 55g tank.
 
Yes, I had some neon tetras like that, alone they were very shy and hid at the back, when I put pencilfish with them they were out and about all the time. Anyway here is a video about black neons you might find interesting.
 
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  • #11
Why is everything repeat posting and I can’t edit and delete?
Green neons need a decent sized group and preferably other nano fish to swim among. My 12 GNTs swim happily among the other 30 or so nano fish of different species in my 55g tank.
oh that’s RIGHT! I always forget the dither fish bc I had 30 green neons and they hid constantly. What other nanos work? I assume like black neons wouldn’t work.
 

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Why is everything repeat posting and I can’t edit and delete?

oh that’s RIGHT! I always forget the dither fish bc I had 30 green neons and they hid constantly. What other nanos work? I assume like black neons wouldn’t work.
Why do you think black neons wouldn't work? In the video I linked they seem to be alone in that tank and don't look at all shy...
 
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  • #14
Why is everything repeat posting and I can’t edit and delete?
Green neons need a decent sized group and preferably other nano fish to swim among. My 12 GNTs swim happily among the other 30 or so nano fish of different species in my 55g tank.
oh that’s RIGHT! I always forget the dither fish bc I had 30 green neons and they hid constantly. What other nanos work? I assume like black neons wouldn’t work.
Yes, I had some neon tetras like that, alone they were very shy and hid at the back, when I put pencilfish with them they were out and about all the time. Anyway here is a video about black neons you might find interesting.
wait that was awesome and showed so many of the fishes I am curious about. So do you think it would work to get a bunch of black neons and a bunch of neon tetras and would they work as dither fish for each other? That could be a really stupid question but I am asking it!!

ALSO do all the fish in the video look like that? I’ll show pics. Like are they that bright?
 
Yes, something is wrong with posting. And every time I post, I get a “oops, something went wrong “ meassage.
 
Yes, something is wrong with posting. And every time I post, I get a “oops, something went wrong “ meassage.
You just have to ignore it and refresh the page
 
So do you think it would work to get a bunch of black neons and a bunch of neon tetras and would they work as dither fish for each other?
It could work yes, and they would look good together, my only hesitation would be that neons seem to have the reputation of being rather weak, and are probably more sensitive to water parameters than black neons, and with your rather odd water parameter situation I am not sure. I had neons for several years and they were fine, but my water is very soft so good for them, and tap water is the same as the tanks more or less. In the video the black neons looked good on their own and did not seem to be shy...
 
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  • #18
It could work yes, and they would look good together, my only hesitation would be that neons seem to have the reputation of being rather weak, and are probably more sensitive to water parameters than black neons, and with your rather odd water parameter situation I am not sure. I had neons for several years and they were fine, but my water is very soft so good for them, and tap water is the same as the tanks more or less. In the video the black neons looked good on their own and did not seem to be shy...
I did some research how long until the substrate woukd stop lowering ph and it said about a year and it’s been three months. So not long considering I have 9 months left.
 
Mmm well I can appreciate that you don’t want to change the substrate, that would be a big job. I think for now choose hardy species, do not overstock the tank and do small water changes.
 
Ok…..I’ll be the bad guy. Do you value your plants or fish more. If plants….go with what TClare said. If fish…..roll up your sleeves, get a 3/4” or 1” diameter 6-7ft. flexible hose, several 5g buckets and siphon out the pH dropping substrate and replace it. Do you really want to put fish in (and watch fish that are a second choice for 3/4 of a year) that are not THE fish you do want? Do you want to worry about the “hardier” fish you do put in for 9 months? Where do those fish go in 9 months time? And……I know of no fish that can ideally/remaining in good health go from 6.4pH to 8pH on a regular basis.

Doing a substrate swap is really not that hard…..trust me, especially before adding fish or with only a few fish. Read the link.

 
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  • #21
Ok…..I’ll be the bad guy. Do you value your plants or fish more. If plants….go with what TClare said. If fish…..roll up your sleeves, get a 3/4” or 1” diameter 6-7ft. flexible hose, several 5g buckets and siphon out the pH dropping substrate and replace it. Do you really want to put fish in (and watch fish that are a second choice for 3/4 of a year) that are not THE fish you do want? Do you want to worry about the “hardier” fish you do put in for 9 months? Where do those fish go in 9 months time? And……I know of no fish that can ideally/remaining in good health go from 6.4pH to 8pH on a regular basis.

Doing a substrate swap is really not that hard…..trust me, especially before adding fish or with only a few fish. Read the link.

I will admit I am the worst at rehoming fish. Like terrible I always feel bad. What’s worse on your opinion? Aging the water for each change or changing substrate. The plants are very impt to me but not as much as the fish.
 

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For me……honestly, as soon as you’re done with substrate switch, you’ll be SO glad you did, relieved, and you’ll relax from worrying about your water. Plus….you can focus on the fish you really want.
The actual switching of the substrate for my 75g took only about 45-60 minutes with maybe 10 minutes of preparation. What really added time was the extensive rinsing of the new substrate before hand. If I remember correctly…. :rolleyes:….you mentioned that aging water was not easy for you or something like that. Doing the substrate switch will make what aging you do have to do for WCs much easier and less complicated.

If you do the switch as per that link and it does not work out for ya, let me know and I promise I’ll never post on your threads again.:cool:
 
It’s not really a question of whether the fish or plants are more important, you can have a perfectly nice planted tank with an inert sand substrate. So if you change the substrate you won’t have to cope with the difference between your tap and tank water and you can still have healthy plants. But you will still have moderately hard tap water that is not exactly ideal for blackwater species like cardinal tetras. It might work out with captive bred fish, but I think there are more likely to be potential health issues than if you chose hardier, more adaptable species. I suppose it’s a question of how badly you want the cardinals?

I’m not sure which is less hassle - aging water or changing the substrate, Aging water is not difficult you just need a largish container with more of the same substrate, I suppose space and temperature could be issues.

So those are two possibilities you can consider. The third is leaving things as they are, do small water changes with tap water and choose hardy species which, like your Corydoras, can cope with this situation and with fairly hard water.

Any of these options could work out, you just need to consider carefully which will be best for you.
 
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  • #24
It’s not really a question of whether the fish or plants are more important, you can have a perfectly nice planted tank with an inert sand substrate. So if you change the substrate you won’t have to cope with the difference between your tap and tank water and you can still have healthy plants. But you will still have moderately hard tap water that is not exactly ideal for blackwater species like cardinal tetras. It might work out with captive bred fish, but I think there are more likely to be potential health issues than if you chose hardier, more adaptable species. I suppose it’s a question of how badly you want the cardinals?

I’m not sure which is less hassle - aging water or changing the substrate, Aging water is not difficult you just need a largish container with more of the same substrate, I suppose space and temperature could be issues.

So those are two possibilities you can consider. The third is leaving things as they are, do small water changes with tap water and choose hardy species which, like your Corydoras, can cope with this situation and with fairly hard water.

Any of these options could work out, you just need to consider carefully which will be best for you.
Yes now that I jsut read this I feel like a fool. I either skip the cardinals (duh) or do a substrate change. Yes I know these were the options before but I was really trying to make something work that COULD work but isn’t best scenario for me or the fish. So basically either fall in love with a new type that’ll work OR switch out the soil.
I’m goong ro head to the far off fish store later this week and see what they have. They don’t usually have all the options I see listed but maybe I’ll see something new. Just going to look not to buy. And then I can figure it which way to go with my options.

I could head to that fish place which is an hour plus away and I’ll do that if they have the fish I want but I would be more likely to narrow it down to a couple types and buy that day or buy new substrate then and swap it out.

Ty both so so much!!

This also explains why mollies did so well at my parents house where the tank is and so poorly at my house!

Yes now that I jsut read this I feel like a fool. I either skip the cardinals (duh) or do a substrate change. Yes I know these were the options before but I was really trying to make something work that COULD work but isn’t best scenario for me or the fish. So basically either fall in love with a new type that’ll work OR switch out the soil.
I’m goong ro head to the far off fish store later this week and see what they have. They don’t usually have all the options I see listed but maybe I’ll see something new. Just going to look not to buy. And then I can figure it which way to go with my options.

I could head to that fish place which is an hour plus away and I’ll do that if they have the fish I want but I would be more likely to narrow it down to a couple types and buy that day or buy new substrate then and swap it out.

Ty both so so much!!

This also explains why mollies did so well at my parents house where the tank is and so poorly at my house!
Wait wait I forgot I loved these years ago

Blind cave tetras

bgarthe

Any experience? They seem to be very hardy and my parameters seem to be good for them.
 
Also I was meaning to say if you decide to keep the current substrate I would be inclined to leave the Corydoras there as they seem to be well adapted, and get a few more panda Cories to mix in with them. And if you do decide to try cardinals, bear in mind that any Corydoras will need to be temperature compatible with them.

It be will be interesting to see what your shop has in stock…
 
In wrapping up my part in this, I’ll just add that mod hard water can be made softer by way of RO rather easily. My well water is hard, but I ratio mix it with RO until I get my softer water for all my CTs, green neon tetras etc. along with my discus tanks of years past.

Yes, it is true plants can do fine with inert substrate…..I’ve even done it years ago. My comment earlier regarding plants or fish was based on the fact that most people having your substrate tend to do it (as I’ve read) to facilitate/prioritize vigorous plant growth….that’s all.

I am an old goon who will do anything to maintain my tanks of favorite fish that I “must” have like my Cardinal Tetras, Congo Tetras, Diamond Tetras, and other nano tetras and rasboras. That’s much of what I enjoy about keeping fish.

Sorry….never done the Blind Cave Tetras.

Good luck and post pics when things get going for you no matter the path taken.
 
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  • #28
In wrapping up my part in this, I’ll just add that mod hard water can be made softer by way of RO rather easily. My well water is hard, but I ratio mix it with RO until I get my softer water for all my CTs, green neon tetras etc. along with my discus tanks of years past.

Yes, it is true plants can do fine with inert substrate…..I’ve even done it years ago. My comment earlier regarding plants or fish was based on the fact that most people having your substrate tend to do it (as I’ve read) to facilitate/prioritize vigorous plant growth….that’s all.

I am an old goon who will do anything to maintain my tanks of favorite fish that I “must” have like my Cardinal Tetras, Congo Tetras, Diamond Tetras, and other nano tetras and rasboras. That’s much of what I enjoy about keeping fish.

Sorry….never done the Blind Cave Tetras.

Good luck and post pics when things get going for you no matter the path taken.
You’re totally right that I need to choose one since the substrate is either facilitating one or killing the other. That made perfect sense. And sure I can do it with inert but that’s NOT what I’m currently doing so for me it is a choice!! And I appreciate your kindness patience and help so very much!! Your tank (that you’ve shown) is awesome!!

Also I was meaning to say if you decide to keep the current substrate I would be inclined to leave the Corydoras there as they seem to be well adapted, and get a few more panda Cories to mix in with them. And if you do decide to try cardinals, bear in mind that any Corydoras will need to be temperature compatible with them.

It be will be interesting to see what your shop has in stock…
I forgot about mixing Cories and I do love that! I haven’t ever had nutrient substrate before bc I know Many MANY people do it with sand but I haven’t had luck so I was trying to up my chances in any way I could. I do know it can be done but I think it is kind of a choice IF I have certain fish. But seems like my tap water isn’t idea either!

Ok so I do adore the Cories. Do you have ANY ideas of how I can make them more visible? They are out and about; it’s not that they are hiding bc then I would simply up the amount. They just truly are hidden and blend in. I read I could add like a 12” long white sand bed to have for their own area and feed them there and then they’ll gravitate there but I don’t think that would work. I think the sand will def mix in too much (plus I don’t really like the look even if it did work). So any other ideas?
 

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The only thing I can think of is to get a few panda Cories as well, they are likely to swim around together with the others and this movement together with the lighter pandas MIGHT help them to show up more. I suggest pandas rather than albinos as pandas are smaller so you could have more and they will fit better in your tank size.
 
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  • #30
The only thing I can think of is to get a few panda Cories as well, they are likely to swim around together with the others and this movement together with the lighter pandas MIGHT help them to show up more. I suggest pandas rather than albinos as pandas are smaller so you could have more and they will fit better in your tank size.
Ty! Great idea:) I have albinos in my other tank so it will be fun to get a diff kind. I had pandas years ago. The albinos are so cool and out in the open even though I only have the two small and the one larger older bronze (so three) bc nobody has had them again yet!!
 
Yes….pandas would be good and they would show up nicely. My Peppered on light substrate (nice and light with patterning and even some blue coloring) and on dark substrate (much darker less patterned).
Pandas on dark substrate still show up nicely.
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Yes….pandas would be good and they would show up nicely. My Peppered on light substrate (nice and light with patterning and even some blue coloring) and on dark substrate (much darker less patterned).
Pandas on dark substrate still show up nicely.
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So TClare also

Very bizarre I got the new filter put it in all the Cories made it but I tested the water and the ph is now 7.2 or so! And the gh and kh went up a point each but the ph was so interesting to me. The one pic you can see says April at the top is the tap and tank and the next pic is the tank. That’s a huge increase. I assume that means the nutrients are almost finished leeching. I didn’t add the pellets that come with Amazonia Ada version 2 bc I was told to save those for later on and so I can add those slowly eventually but odd imho!!
 

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Interesting, I haven’t ever used that substrate, but it would be worth checking again in a few days, in case it was somehow due to the water not being moved around by the filter.
 
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  • #34
Interesting, I haven’t ever used that substrate, but it would be worth checking again in a few days, in case it was somehow due to the water not being moved around by the filter.
Yes agreed. I just was so surprised but I bet that is it. It was so cute bc the fish were SO HAPPY when I turned it back on.
 
Your PH and KH jumping up is probably just your substrate finally getting saturated (CEC binding sites at full capacity). It’s basically a nutrient/hardness sponge that has now absorbed all it can. This is probably going to be your new normal. Time will tell.

From this point on if you want to lower your PH you’ll need to add tannins.

As far as reading test I’ll trust your eyes judgment over an internet image. On photo I’m seeing 6.8-7.
 
Wait wait I forgot I loved these years ago

Blind cave tetras
I have a 6 cave tetras in my 75g community tank with other tetras and bottomfeeders, I have a very bittersweet love for them. They manage to pop out even on white sand as they're pink and have this very beautiful silver gleam to them.

They don't shoal too often but they're constantly moving and usually stay where they can feel the open space.
They've mixed well with my tetras, corys, and gourami as they'll "sense" them and simply swim around, I'm assuming this is because I introduced the cave tetras to the community while they were still tiny. At first they were as big as a harlequin rasbora but 4 years later and the biggest cave tetra is nearly as big as a three spotted gourami

During feeding time, however, the cave tetras will try to grab whatever they can and they may accidentally try to nip other fish. In that case I would just recommend giving them their own food directly while the other fish are getting their own fill. They feed both at the surface and the bottom, I'd recommend giving them shrimp pallets and not wafers since they'll just nab the whole thing in their mouth and swim off. They also take live food and vegetables like spinach, all of mine really love de-horned earwigs and got fat off of them

They shredded through a majority of my soft leaved plants when I first got them and so now I'm limited to stout plants like various ferns and anubias'. I'm still able to keep my tank heavily planted though since they won't chew through those kind of leaves. They've also managed to stay completely unfazed through two tank crashes so I'd say they're also very hardy. Overall they're decent community fish if you make it work, just know that you'll have a very limited scope of plants you can fill the tank with
 

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  • Thread Starter
  • #37
I have a 6 cave tetras in my 75g community tank with other tetras and bottomfeeders, I have a very bittersweet love for them. They manage to pop out even on white sand as they're pink and have this very beautiful silver gleam to them.

They don't shoal too often but they're constantly moving and usually stay where they can feel the open space.
They've mixed well with my tetras, corys, and gourami as they'll "sense" them and simply swim around, I'm assuming this is because I introduced the cave tetras to the community while they were still tiny. At first they were as big as a harlequin rasbora but 4 years later and the biggest cave tetra is nearly as big as a three spotted gourami

During feeding time, however, the cave tetras will try to grab whatever they can and they may accidentally try to nip other fish. In that case I would just recommend giving them their own food directly while the other fish are getting their own fill. They feed both at the surface and the bottom, I'd recommend giving them shrimp pallets and not wafers since they'll just nab the whole thing in their mouth and swim off. They also take live food and vegetables like spinach, all of mine really love de-horned earwigs and got fat off of them

They shredded through a majority of my soft leaved plants when I first got them and so now I'm limited to stout plants like various ferns and anubias'. I'm still able to keep my tank heavily planted though since they won't chew through those kind of leaves. They've also managed to stay completely unfazed through two tank crashes so I'd say they're also very hardy. Overall they're decent community fish if you make it work, just know that you'll have a very limited scope of plants you can fill the tank with
Hello!

Ty so much!!

Ok so how do you think they would do with peppered Cories? I am considering native fish like bloodfin with the peppered Cories but I am very corpus about the blind cave tetras

Would they do ok with the peppered Cories and panda Cories? I don’t have panda yet but I do have 5 peppered that are small and I’m getting more
 
They should do fine, they're able to register what's food and what's fish so at most they'll either slightly push the other fish aside or simply swim around them. Mine will usually slowly hover around the middle to the surface of the tank. I have 10 bronze corys and the cave tetras will sometimes hover around the sand with them and they've haven't had issues with each other outside of feeding time. The corys don't really seem to care about them but they will move if the cave tetra suddenly has a burst of energy. Definitely see if you can get the cave tetras while they're small and young though so they can better adapt to tankmates, I got mine from Pet Zone SD.

You'll have to be careful with food as they are very very greedy bottomfeeders, they'll get very excited and dogpile on the food so they may accidentally nip someone. You'd have to spread catfish pallets around the tank for them so they don't steal food from the corys. Alternatively I found you can actually get them to learn that the good food is at the surface by giving them frozen/live food and veggies directly with tweezers or a turkey baster, so they won't immediately gun for the food on the sand.
 
Hello!

Ty so much!!

Ok so how do you think they would do with peppered Cories? I am considering native fish like bloodfin with the peppered Cories but I am very corpus about the blind cave tetras

Would they do ok with the peppered Cories and panda Cories? I don’t have panda yet but I do have 5 peppered that are small and I’m getting more
They should be OK, but personally I would prefer the bloodfin tetras as a better geographical match, but also because of the flash of red would look good, and because the cave tetras are quite big and chunky for a tank the size of yours. Up to you of course though.
 
  • Thread Starter
  • #40
If the Diamonds were the only species except for some corycats, 10-12 would be happy and, in a darker colored tank w the right lighting, would look awesome. I’ve had Cherry Barbs and they would be nice too. The sexual dimorphism (red males and tan females) is good for your color desires.
If….you work out the water parameter issues, trying TR CTs again would also be an option. I very well know, and relate, to the serene beauty of a shoal of CTs as I have a 33g tank with just CTs…..and, of course, a crew of corycats. And…finally…another pretty hardy, small, active, good shoaling, colorful fish to consider would be the Espei Rasbora. A group of 15-18 of those in a darker 26g would be cool. They’d have a coppery-orange glow to them. I also have these and really like them a lot.
Because I care……I’m going to just say again, getting that chemistry ironed out either way is going to make all the difference for you, no matter the fish you choose.
TClare Also (I’m replying to bgarthe).

So I got some fish. On a side note my ph is now 7 still. I attached pictures. Today is Friday. Prior to getting fish I had 5 very small peppered Cories.

On Wed I got two Peppered Cories (I meant to get 3 but they gave me the wrong amount) and I tested the store ph water (7.0) and mine (same). I also got 10 small Cherry Barbs!!

So I now have 7 small peppered Cories and 10 cherry barbs. The ammonia two days later is still 0 so that’s great!! They’re eating and swimming and now the Cory cats are out more!!

I also got 6 albino (small) Cories for my 64.8 gallon so I now have 8 small albinos and 1 large bronze. I already lost at least one albino and I’m not sure why. I’ll do a water change today but shoot!!
But anyway the 26 gallon is doing great!!
 
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