Betta fin rot treatment question
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Yeah, frequent water changes and stress coat is all I used when one of my bettas tore his tail and fins up. They are almost all grown back after about 2 months.
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I would try to get a hold of some live plants. Anubias, java fern, water sprite, and moss balls are my go-tos, and really low maintenance. Anubias is my favorite, and doesn't need to be planted either.
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And since you mentioned the tank size and how you divided it and what is in the other side, I feel the need to tell you that that is way too small for those fish. Especially for such active fish like the Danio. You are probably stressing them all by having them in such a small space.
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If you have a walmart nearby you can get a 2.5g tank with filter for about $23....would still need a heater though
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Over the past few days I have seen some tears on my Betta fish that has gotten bigger, and they have some black on the edges. I was due to do a water change this weekend, but didn’t get a chance to do it. Today I am going to change 80-90 percent of the water to get rid of the bad bacteria. Should I add something to the water to treat the fish? I have aquarium salt and stress coat. Please let me know if these would help to treat him.
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Here is a picture of the fish. It is a 5 gallon tank that is cycled. The temp is 75 and I do a 50 percent water change every other week. The tank has been set up for about 2 months and I did a fish in cycle with seachem stability.
The ammonia and nitrite are 0 and the nitrate is at around 20 which is what our tap water is. The nitrites haven’t gone up since I last did a water change about 2 weeks ago.
I will be doing a water change and adding aquarium salt tonight to help him.
Pretty betta! . I’d say do water changes 2-3 times a week since we are dealing with fin issues. Warm clean water is your best friend! Also, Indian Almond leaves are great for bettas! My guy loves them.
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I have read online about the aquarium salt treatment for Berta’s. I just did an 80-90 percent water change and added 1 tablespoon of aquarium salt. You are supposed to do a 50 percent water change and add back half of the salt every day for a week. I’m not sure if I’m going to go through with this, but I already added the salt today.
I have never added salt to my betta tank before but it could work. Unfortunately I have only dealt with severe fin rot and had to use Klanoplex.
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You guys mean aquarium salt not epsom salt right
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Are you sure you don’t need epsom salt I’m pretty sure aquarium salt makes it saltier and kills parasites and epsom salt is what you want
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HI there,
This is kind of a convoluted situation so bear with me...
I got my betta about 10 months ago. He's in a 10 gal with heater, and a corner air-stone powered sponge filter. It previously housed a crayfish for a few years. When the cray died I did a 75% water change, let the filter run for a while with no critters, and added my betta. No animal tank mates (he eats them all), just an anubias and some java ferns.
The back story is I have been having weird algae issues with this tank. I cannot seem to figure out which type of algae it is, it's kind of a golden green film that makes sheets on the plants, gravel, and glass. If it builds up it makes a hard opaque layer. Even with just 1 fish and in a 10 gal, and frequent water changes (50% weekly) it persists. So, I have been considering breaking this tank down anyway. I have a suspicion is has to do with the substrate. It's gravel, but I think it may have been used in a brackish or salt water tank before? I rinsed it well, but there looks like there might be some shell fragments in it? (I work at a marine lab and we have lots of tanks and gravel etc. lying around...).
Now I notice it looks like he has some fin rot. I was away for a few weeks last month, and I wonder if the water quality just got too bad?And I think the fin rot may have been starting before that.
I feel like something is just up with this tank. Whenever I put in a snail it dies... even without him attacking it.
The fish however, is great otherwise. Amazing appetite, color looks good, very active.
I'm considering setting up a brand new tank with flourite black sand substrate and starting over. But of course it won't be cycled. I have access to healthy tanks that I could grab some filter media juice and plants from... But wondering if it would be better to keep him where he is and just do tons of water changes, or move him to the clean environment and do the same?
It seems obvious something is up with the water in the current tank, so I kind of want to just get him out of there.
Thoughts?
This is kind of a convoluted situation so bear with me...
I got my betta about 10 months ago. He's in a 10 gal with heater, and a corner air-stone powered sponge filter. It previously housed a crayfish for a few years. When the cray died I did a 75% water change, let the filter run for a while with no critters, and added my betta. No animal tank mates (he eats them all), just an anubias and some java ferns.
The back story is I have been having weird algae issues with this tank. I cannot seem to figure out which type of algae it is, it's kind of a golden green film that makes sheets on the plants, gravel, and glass. If it builds up it makes a hard opaque layer. Even with just 1 fish and in a 10 gal, and frequent water changes (50% weekly) it persists. So, I have been considering breaking this tank down anyway. I have a suspicion is has to do with the substrate. It's gravel, but I think it may have been used in a brackish or salt water tank before? I rinsed it well, but there looks like there might be some shell fragments in it? (I work at a marine lab and we have lots of tanks and gravel etc. lying around...).
Now I notice it looks like he has some fin rot. I was away for a few weeks last month, and I wonder if the water quality just got too bad?And I think the fin rot may have been starting before that.
I feel like something is just up with this tank. Whenever I put in a snail it dies... even without him attacking it.
The fish however, is great otherwise. Amazing appetite, color looks good, very active.
I'm considering setting up a brand new tank with flourite black sand substrate and starting over. But of course it won't be cycled. I have access to healthy tanks that I could grab some filter media juice and plants from... But wondering if it would be better to keep him where he is and just do tons of water changes, or move him to the clean environment and do the same?
It seems obvious something is up with the water in the current tank, so I kind of want to just get him out of there.
Thoughts?
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Strange that all the snails die... Are you sure they are coming in healthy - there are a LOT of sick snails showing up now... I recently saw a shipment of nerites and mystery snails show up at the local fish store.. A couple days later, they were all dead except one... The algae issue sounds like a perfect opportunity for some Nerite snails...
Any chance your tank is getting sunlight?
Fin rot is classically a bad water quality problem... I would start with daily 25%-50% water changes and see how that goes.
Any chance your tank is getting sunlight?
Fin rot is classically a bad water quality problem... I would start with daily 25%-50% water changes and see how that goes.
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The snail thing is very weird... the snails were healthy, all pulled from other tanks I have where they are doing great (reproducing, etc). I tried a nerite initially and it died after 1 day. That's why I started trying snails from other tanks (ramshorn, pond snails). All died after a day.
I've also had really bad luck getting floating plants or hornwort going (just melted), even though the anubias and java fern are doing fine (even though they keep getting covered with algae). Some of my anubias leaves are starting to turn white, so not sure if the algae is out competing it? I just can't imagine my nitrates/nitrites are that high to cause this algae problem with 1 fish in a 10 gal with plants... I almost wonder if the plants are starving. But then I haven't actually tested the water so I guess I can't say. I need to bring in my test kit from home (this tank is in my office).
The tank is by a window, but it doesn't get direct light and is mostly blocked by the wall.
What do you think about moving to a new tank and doing the daily water changes there?
So, I just had a bad feeling about the old tank. So I've moved him to a new 5 gal with clean brand new substrate (flourite black sand), and clean plants (bleach dipped to remove the horrid scum algae), BUT I kept his sponge filter from his old tank.
Before I switched him over I tested his water in his old tank and got 0/0/0, which I would expect since I had already been doing lots of 50% water changes. So idk... When I cleaned out the old tank the gravel still smelled kind of rank... like low tide, even though I've been vacuuming and doing water changes like crazy. So I think it was a good move...
2 days later in the new set up he is doing fine, and I swear his fins already look better... the edges look less black and curly. Going to continue water testing and 50% water changes on this new tank as long as needed...
Interestingly (and frustratingly), I dropped in a few malaysian trumpets to help mix the sand, and they immediately closed up and seem dead. SO I think there must be something about the water in my building??? Maybe old pipes with some copper? I did acclimate them (not fully drip, but to the temp by floating the bag, and then slowly added some tank water bit by bit over the course of about an hour).
The confusing thing about this all is my co-worker uses the same water in their tanks, and it's a snail bonanza. Maybe their water conditioner is better/different?
I use Prime, but maybe it doesn't remove copper? Or could elements of it go bad? It's a pretty old bottle. I use the same bottle at home and my snails are great... but different water source there.
This is such a mystery that I would really like to figure out!
I've also had really bad luck getting floating plants or hornwort going (just melted), even though the anubias and java fern are doing fine (even though they keep getting covered with algae). Some of my anubias leaves are starting to turn white, so not sure if the algae is out competing it? I just can't imagine my nitrates/nitrites are that high to cause this algae problem with 1 fish in a 10 gal with plants... I almost wonder if the plants are starving. But then I haven't actually tested the water so I guess I can't say. I need to bring in my test kit from home (this tank is in my office).
The tank is by a window, but it doesn't get direct light and is mostly blocked by the wall.
What do you think about moving to a new tank and doing the daily water changes there?
So, I just had a bad feeling about the old tank. So I've moved him to a new 5 gal with clean brand new substrate (flourite black sand), and clean plants (bleach dipped to remove the horrid scum algae), BUT I kept his sponge filter from his old tank.
Before I switched him over I tested his water in his old tank and got 0/0/0, which I would expect since I had already been doing lots of 50% water changes. So idk... When I cleaned out the old tank the gravel still smelled kind of rank... like low tide, even though I've been vacuuming and doing water changes like crazy. So I think it was a good move...
2 days later in the new set up he is doing fine, and I swear his fins already look better... the edges look less black and curly. Going to continue water testing and 50% water changes on this new tank as long as needed...
Interestingly (and frustratingly), I dropped in a few malaysian trumpets to help mix the sand, and they immediately closed up and seem dead. SO I think there must be something about the water in my building??? Maybe old pipes with some copper? I did acclimate them (not fully drip, but to the temp by floating the bag, and then slowly added some tank water bit by bit over the course of about an hour).
The confusing thing about this all is my co-worker uses the same water in their tanks, and it's a snail bonanza. Maybe their water conditioner is better/different?
I use Prime, but maybe it doesn't remove copper? Or could elements of it go bad? It's a pretty old bottle. I use the same bottle at home and my snails are great... but different water source there.
This is such a mystery that I would really like to figure out!
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Well, I'm not sure if he's getting better or worse...
Here he is Oct 28 (during a water change):
You can compare him to my avatar and see the difference...
And here he is tonight (sorry for the bad pic, he isn't being cooperative):
I've been doing 50% water changes on his 5 gal tank every day or every other, but there was a weekend where I couldn't do them (I was away for work). I've been testing the his water and it's reading 0 ammonia, 0 nitrites, and somewhere between 0 and 5 Nitrates. Temp is 80 F.
But, I just checked the pH and it's 8.8! I haven't been testing the pH regularly so idk if it's been fluctuating... Ack! Out of the tap the water is 7.6. Could the frequent water changes actually be stressing him more due to pH fluctuations? I've been letting the water sit out for usually a few hours with a heater in it to bring it to temp... but maybe the pH isn't equalizing??
I was shocked because I added an indian almond leaf a few days ago, which is supposed to lower the pH, right? So maybe it was off the charts before?
He doesn't seem as active today, but he's eating fine.
I also started using Vita-chem vitamins in his food and water to try to boost him a bit.
A bit worried about this little guy.
Seems a worse today. He ate earlier, but has been hanging out (floating?) at the top of the tank, listing slightly to one side. Maybe swim bladder issue? When he swims down he doesn't float up dramatically, but normally he rests at the bottom. Will skip feeding for now.
His fins look about the same.
I don't want to just hit him with any meds because now I'm not sure if the IAL made things worse? But changing things might be stressing him more?
Any advice welcomed....
Here he is Oct 28 (during a water change):
You can compare him to my avatar and see the difference...
And here he is tonight (sorry for the bad pic, he isn't being cooperative):
I've been doing 50% water changes on his 5 gal tank every day or every other, but there was a weekend where I couldn't do them (I was away for work). I've been testing the his water and it's reading 0 ammonia, 0 nitrites, and somewhere between 0 and 5 Nitrates. Temp is 80 F.
But, I just checked the pH and it's 8.8! I haven't been testing the pH regularly so idk if it's been fluctuating... Ack! Out of the tap the water is 7.6. Could the frequent water changes actually be stressing him more due to pH fluctuations? I've been letting the water sit out for usually a few hours with a heater in it to bring it to temp... but maybe the pH isn't equalizing??
I was shocked because I added an indian almond leaf a few days ago, which is supposed to lower the pH, right? So maybe it was off the charts before?
He doesn't seem as active today, but he's eating fine.
I also started using Vita-chem vitamins in his food and water to try to boost him a bit.
A bit worried about this little guy.
Seems a worse today. He ate earlier, but has been hanging out (floating?) at the top of the tank, listing slightly to one side. Maybe swim bladder issue? When he swims down he doesn't float up dramatically, but normally he rests at the bottom. Will skip feeding for now.
His fins look about the same.
I don't want to just hit him with any meds because now I'm not sure if the IAL made things worse? But changing things might be stressing him more?
Any advice welcomed....
I had new fish going to be added to my tank and I made a bad a choice to move the betta to the bucket in different water where the fish I was going to move in, well 10 mins later his fins were thin and basically looked split apart and melting away, He seemed completely stressed, Shortly after I placed him back into the tank and he was in a bit of shock. I thought I was going to lose him, I left him alone with lots of hornwort and days later his fins started growing back and his fun personable personality returned.
Such immediate water changes and possible different water temperatures could have stressed him out.
Test out his lively hood and introduce a mirror infront of him, if he flares up than he's going to be mostly like fine.
It's great exercise for the fish as well!
Have a read on this link I've added below and here is an excerpt from the page.
Removing Copper from the System
High quality, activated carbon effectively removes dissolved free copper from systems. One recommendation is to place a separate filtration unit containing fresh, activated charcoal at the rate of 170 grams per 57 liters of water (about 0.375 lbs per 15 gallons) on a system to be purged of copper (Cardeilhac and Whitaker 1988). Once all the water is believed to have cycled through the carbon, test for free copper concentration. If chelated copper has been used, water changes will be necessary. Dolomite may also be used, if it is removed afterward (Cardeilhac and Whitaker 1988). If tests continue to show a high free copper concentration, a complete water change may still be required to remove copper from the water. Copper levels should be monitored throughout this process and for several weeks afterward, in case copper that was previously bound to substrate or complexed in solution, is released as free copper.
FA165/FA165: Use of Copper in Marine Aquaculture and Aquarium Systems
Such immediate water changes and possible different water temperatures could have stressed him out.
Test out his lively hood and introduce a mirror infront of him, if he flares up than he's going to be mostly like fine.
It's great exercise for the fish as well!
Have a read on this link I've added below and here is an excerpt from the page.
Removing Copper from the System
High quality, activated carbon effectively removes dissolved free copper from systems. One recommendation is to place a separate filtration unit containing fresh, activated charcoal at the rate of 170 grams per 57 liters of water (about 0.375 lbs per 15 gallons) on a system to be purged of copper (Cardeilhac and Whitaker 1988). Once all the water is believed to have cycled through the carbon, test for free copper concentration. If chelated copper has been used, water changes will be necessary. Dolomite may also be used, if it is removed afterward (Cardeilhac and Whitaker 1988). If tests continue to show a high free copper concentration, a complete water change may still be required to remove copper from the water. Copper levels should be monitored throughout this process and for several weeks afterward, in case copper that was previously bound to substrate or complexed in solution, is released as free copper.
FA165/FA165: Use of Copper in Marine Aquaculture and Aquarium Systems
I've updated my post
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Thanks for the reply! That's a good idea regarding the mirror.
Yeah I was worried about all the water changes... but that's what everyone recommends for fin rot? I have been matching the temperatures, but I think you might be right that they are stressing him out more, especially when the water is very clean (and with just 1 fish in a very clean 5 gal with live plants I can't imagine the water getting fouled that quickly).
Thanks for the info on the charcoal and copper! Now that you mention it, I used to always use it in my filters... and at some point I stopped because I had heard mixed reviews about it removing beneficial trace minerals as well.. possibly around the same time my snails started dying.
Yeah I was worried about all the water changes... but that's what everyone recommends for fin rot? I have been matching the temperatures, but I think you might be right that they are stressing him out more, especially when the water is very clean (and with just 1 fish in a very clean 5 gal with live plants I can't imagine the water getting fouled that quickly).
Thanks for the info on the charcoal and copper! Now that you mention it, I used to always use it in my filters... and at some point I stopped because I had heard mixed reviews about it removing beneficial trace minerals as well.. possibly around the same time my snails started dying.
Yeah let me know how he reacts with the mirror, I find it the cutest thing when they flare up on their reflection.
I think of it this way, when your family is going to be threatened, your body reacts and somehow finds the strength to continue to be alive and protect your family.
Since betta's build their nest and watch the eggs, I would think that they would have the same response with their bodies and their purpose returns back to their mind. I exercise my betta a couple mins a day everyother day or so.
Yeah, that water is going to be way too clean to be doing major water changes everyday or so. And probably overload on dechlorinator, or what ever that you add to clean the water or whatever that is in your tap water as you may detect copper.
I'd consider investing in hornwort! it's fast growing which makes it fun to watch the plant grow as well.
My betta loves to sit, hide, and rest/sleep, explore in the hornwort, which makes the betta feel safe and relaxed.
Here is his setup In a GIF.
I placed an empty canola oil bottle and I cut out a hole to enter and exit, and I used a lighter to smooth out the edges so it wouldnt be too sharp and the same to the top portion after cutting the lid off etc.
It gives him more places to explore and have fun., I also poke holes on top and I'm planning to stick hornwort through the holes to make it more like a hideout.
This is a 20 gallon tank, housing a one cory cat, one golden spotted plecco, and one Black ghost knife fish, you can kinda see him at the bottom, here is a GIF of me handfeeding him red worms, I cut it into small pieces to feed the betta as well.
I think of it this way, when your family is going to be threatened, your body reacts and somehow finds the strength to continue to be alive and protect your family.
Since betta's build their nest and watch the eggs, I would think that they would have the same response with their bodies and their purpose returns back to their mind. I exercise my betta a couple mins a day everyother day or so.
Yeah, that water is going to be way too clean to be doing major water changes everyday or so. And probably overload on dechlorinator, or what ever that you add to clean the water or whatever that is in your tap water as you may detect copper.
I'd consider investing in hornwort! it's fast growing which makes it fun to watch the plant grow as well.
My betta loves to sit, hide, and rest/sleep, explore in the hornwort, which makes the betta feel safe and relaxed.
Here is his setup In a GIF.
I placed an empty canola oil bottle and I cut out a hole to enter and exit, and I used a lighter to smooth out the edges so it wouldnt be too sharp and the same to the top portion after cutting the lid off etc.
It gives him more places to explore and have fun., I also poke holes on top and I'm planning to stick hornwort through the holes to make it more like a hideout.
This is a 20 gallon tank, housing a one cory cat, one golden spotted plecco, and one Black ghost knife fish, you can kinda see him at the bottom, here is a GIF of me handfeeding him red worms, I cut it into small pieces to feed the betta as well.
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Beautiful tank! I've always looooved black ghost knifes (knives?)! I remember being so fascinated with them as a kid at the pet store... haven't see one in a long time though!
I tried hornwort (it grows like crazy in my office mate's tank), but it dropped all it's needles and died basically immediately. I waited to see if it would resprout from the stem but it didn't.
I have an anubias and java fern which are doing pretty well, but I do think I should add some more plants. Hornwort hates me apparently.
I feel like the worst aquarist ever at this point... can't even keep pest snails and weedy plants alive! If my tank at home wasn't doing great I would be seriously questioning my choices. Proof that I'm not a total failure:
This one has been running for many years now, and currently has about 12-15 ember tetras (I can never count them accurately), some jullI cories (only 2 but I want to add more, my local store just hasn't had them in a while), 3 amano shrimp, maybe 8 cherry shrimp. Trying out the IAL thing with this one too, as my water is so hard and I hear that tetra and cories appreciate the IAL as it softens the water a bit. Who knows though, maybe I will throw this tank out of whack too, yeeesh.
Today I added more plants to my betta tank, as well as a second low flow in tank filter with a bunch of activated charcoal in it. He was maybe slightly more active today (saw him swim down and hang out in the plants a bit), but is mostly up at the surface, listing to one side.
Forgot to bring the mirror in but will do that tomorrow. I'm going to hold off on feeding him (I usually don't feed him on weekends anyway), but he does still react to my finger at the surface as though he is interested in eating, so that's good.
I tried hornwort (it grows like crazy in my office mate's tank), but it dropped all it's needles and died basically immediately. I waited to see if it would resprout from the stem but it didn't.
I have an anubias and java fern which are doing pretty well, but I do think I should add some more plants. Hornwort hates me apparently.
I feel like the worst aquarist ever at this point... can't even keep pest snails and weedy plants alive! If my tank at home wasn't doing great I would be seriously questioning my choices. Proof that I'm not a total failure:
This one has been running for many years now, and currently has about 12-15 ember tetras (I can never count them accurately), some jullI cories (only 2 but I want to add more, my local store just hasn't had them in a while), 3 amano shrimp, maybe 8 cherry shrimp. Trying out the IAL thing with this one too, as my water is so hard and I hear that tetra and cories appreciate the IAL as it softens the water a bit. Who knows though, maybe I will throw this tank out of whack too, yeeesh.
Today I added more plants to my betta tank, as well as a second low flow in tank filter with a bunch of activated charcoal in it. He was maybe slightly more active today (saw him swim down and hang out in the plants a bit), but is mostly up at the surface, listing to one side.
Forgot to bring the mirror in but will do that tomorrow. I'm going to hold off on feeding him (I usually don't feed him on weekends anyway), but he does still react to my finger at the surface as though he is interested in eating, so that's good.
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Awe I'm so happy for the good progress!
Good for you and your lil guy <3 !
What kind of plants? I'm looking to buy new plants too.
I'm growing a christmas moss tree as of yesterday on a bonsaI tree.
It looks terrible now but it will fill out hopefuly in 2-3 weeks
Good for you and your lil guy <3 !
What kind of plants? I'm looking to buy new plants too.
I'm growing a christmas moss tree as of yesterday on a bonsaI tree.
It looks terrible now but it will fill out hopefuly in 2-3 weeks
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Nice! Looks like it will be awesome!
I got a cluster of crypts (can't remember the sp.. maybe wendtii?) and am trying out a few rotalia stems and a valisaria. I got the rotalia and valisaria mostly for another tank (have a 6 gal walstad going that doesn't have any livestock in it yet), but figured I would try a few with the betta. I think I will need to use root tabs or another fertilizer though since my substrate is just flourite black sand.
The funny thing is I set up the walstad tank to eventually be for this betta! But I wanted to give it a few months for the plants to settle and make sure everything was good before adding him. So then with this fin rot I had to improve his situation and didn't think the walstad was ready. But now I've improved his current tank so much I'm prob just going to end up getting a second betta... Or maybe some sparkling gouramis (they are SO CUTE).
Well hard to say if he's better today. He is a bit more active, and spending some time in the plants, but still spending most of his time at the surface and will slowly float up if he stops swimming at the bottom. He's also had a weird position where he kind of curls up in an uncomfortable looking way...
I tried the mirror. He did flare, but not too enthusiastically.
I opted to feed him a little today... even though he still seems to have swim bladder issues. He ate happily. (I give him hikarI vibra bites broken up into smaller pieces). I might try to find some live daphnia for him...
Here he is tonight:
One thing that still baffles me, is the pH in his tank is between 8.2 and 8.4 even with an Indian almond leaf in it. I have a bucket of water that's been aging for a couple days that also has an IAL, and it's 7.4. Out of the tap it was about the same. I thought that it would equilibriate to become more basic but it hasn't. Could something in the tank be making it more basic?
I'm wondering if I should try a medication, but have no clue what to try and everyone seems to have different opinions on that matter...
I haven't done a water change for a couple days but Ammonia is 0 so I am going to hold off on a water change for now...
He doesn't seem at death's door, I just don't know whether to keep waiting or try another treatment....
I got a cluster of crypts (can't remember the sp.. maybe wendtii?) and am trying out a few rotalia stems and a valisaria. I got the rotalia and valisaria mostly for another tank (have a 6 gal walstad going that doesn't have any livestock in it yet), but figured I would try a few with the betta. I think I will need to use root tabs or another fertilizer though since my substrate is just flourite black sand.
The funny thing is I set up the walstad tank to eventually be for this betta! But I wanted to give it a few months for the plants to settle and make sure everything was good before adding him. So then with this fin rot I had to improve his situation and didn't think the walstad was ready. But now I've improved his current tank so much I'm prob just going to end up getting a second betta... Or maybe some sparkling gouramis (they are SO CUTE).
Well hard to say if he's better today. He is a bit more active, and spending some time in the plants, but still spending most of his time at the surface and will slowly float up if he stops swimming at the bottom. He's also had a weird position where he kind of curls up in an uncomfortable looking way...
I tried the mirror. He did flare, but not too enthusiastically.
I opted to feed him a little today... even though he still seems to have swim bladder issues. He ate happily. (I give him hikarI vibra bites broken up into smaller pieces). I might try to find some live daphnia for him...
Here he is tonight:
One thing that still baffles me, is the pH in his tank is between 8.2 and 8.4 even with an Indian almond leaf in it. I have a bucket of water that's been aging for a couple days that also has an IAL, and it's 7.4. Out of the tap it was about the same. I thought that it would equilibriate to become more basic but it hasn't. Could something in the tank be making it more basic?
I'm wondering if I should try a medication, but have no clue what to try and everyone seems to have different opinions on that matter...
I haven't done a water change for a couple days but Ammonia is 0 so I am going to hold off on a water change for now...
He doesn't seem at death's door, I just don't know whether to keep waiting or try another treatment....
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He's more active today, but still floating mostly. He is able to swim to the bottom but then comes back up.
I removed the charcoal filter because I think the flow was quite strong and it should have had enough time to remove anything from the water.
Added a second IAL which he likes to hang out under. Rearranged the plants a bit so he has more resting spots close to the surface.
IF I was to try a med... which do people recommend? How long should I wait to see if the improved conditions help?
Hard to say if fins are worse, but def no signs of regrowth.
I removed the charcoal filter because I think the flow was quite strong and it should have had enough time to remove anything from the water.
Added a second IAL which he likes to hang out under. Rearranged the plants a bit so he has more resting spots close to the surface.
IF I was to try a med... which do people recommend? How long should I wait to see if the improved conditions help?
Hard to say if fins are worse, but def no signs of regrowth.
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I did a ~30% water change last night. The water had sat out for about 48 hours with conditioner and an IAL, temp matched with a heater. The pH is about 8, about 8.4 in the tank.
He is active this morning! And is sinking! So I think his swim bladder better.
I looked back to when I first noticed the fin rot around Sept 30, and the pic isn't great but you can see they have gotten a lot worse:
Here he is today:
What do you think?
He is active this morning! And is sinking! So I think his swim bladder better.
I looked back to when I first noticed the fin rot around Sept 30, and the pic isn't great but you can see they have gotten a lot worse:
Here he is today:
What do you think?
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Today he is pretty active, flared a lot more enthusiastically at the mirror, but seems like his swim bladder is still acting up. I am going to get some frozen peas today because fasting doesn't seem to clear it up permanently (he just starts floating again when I feed him). At least his spirits are up.
I watched the first few mins of that video and realized it's 2 hours long!? Care to share the cliff notes? But looks like the gist is that treating with salt temporarily can help, so I think I will try it? Lots of people claim it cured their betta's fin rot, but then others say it's not necessary. But I figure it's safer to try than a true med?
I also gave him a frozen blood worm today. I'm wondering if the food I normally give just isn't a good staple? I thought the vibra bites would be better than the hikarI betta food as they actually have more protein, but perhaps only good in rotation with other foods....
His fins seem about the same, but no signs of healing. Edges are still darkened.
I watched the first few mins of that video and realized it's 2 hours long!? Care to share the cliff notes? But looks like the gist is that treating with salt temporarily can help, so I think I will try it? Lots of people claim it cured their betta's fin rot, but then others say it's not necessary. But I figure it's safer to try than a true med?
I also gave him a frozen blood worm today. I'm wondering if the food I normally give just isn't a good staple? I thought the vibra bites would be better than the hikarI betta food as they actually have more protein, but perhaps only good in rotation with other foods....
His fins seem about the same, but no signs of healing. Edges are still darkened.
I heard many bad things about the blood worms, they are saying that they can carry diseases, and not meant for a staple food, just a couple times a week.
Don't worry, I couldn't bear through watching the whole video, I actually ended up falling asleep haha.
But yeah I heard that the salt irritates the slime coat, inreturn creating more slime for protection against diseases, also Dehydrating the fish but what dehydrates first is any illnesses or parasites including what is most common is ich. I did a water change the next day about 40% because I had a scaleless fish and two plecos.
That salt is the most natural medicine before trying any other medicines.
Aquarium salt is not good for scaleless fish, and does not expire!
I added a couple days ago the required amount of aquarium salt to my betta tank as well.
His fins seem to be looking healthier.
Don't worry, I couldn't bear through watching the whole video, I actually ended up falling asleep haha.
But yeah I heard that the salt irritates the slime coat, inreturn creating more slime for protection against diseases, also Dehydrating the fish but what dehydrates first is any illnesses or parasites including what is most common is ich. I did a water change the next day about 40% because I had a scaleless fish and two plecos.
That salt is the most natural medicine before trying any other medicines.
Aquarium salt is not good for scaleless fish, and does not expire!
I added a couple days ago the required amount of aquarium salt to my betta tank as well.
His fins seem to be looking healthier.
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Thanks!
My blood worms are frozen so should be disease-free (my LFS stopped carrying live because of the disease thing). And yes, agree they are not a good staple. I read extra protein can help them heal their fins so thought I should be better about feeding them at once or twice a week.
I figure I will try the salt for about a week or so? And if he's still not improving or it gets worse I'm going to try a med. Don't want wait till it's too late...
My blood worms are frozen so should be disease-free (my LFS stopped carrying live because of the disease thing). And yes, agree they are not a good staple. I read extra protein can help them heal their fins so thought I should be better about feeding them at once or twice a week.
I figure I will try the salt for about a week or so? And if he's still not improving or it gets worse I'm going to try a med. Don't want wait till it's too late...
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Yeah your guy's fins are looking good! Nothing like that on mine yet.
Well, I fed him a cooked pea a fasted for 3 days. He's still floating. And I think his fins are worse, even with the salt.
I'm kind of at a loss. It may be time to medicate. Or should I give the salt a longer time to work? Or maybe up the salt amount? Salt seems very contentious. Lots of betta specific forums recommend it, but then lots of people here say it's not necessary.
He very active either. He still flared for the mirror but he just floats at the surface otherwise.
Should I keep feeding him peas until he's not floating anymore?
Feeling discouraged.
Well, I fed him a cooked pea a fasted for 3 days. He's still floating. And I think his fins are worse, even with the salt.
I'm kind of at a loss. It may be time to medicate. Or should I give the salt a longer time to work? Or maybe up the salt amount? Salt seems very contentious. Lots of betta specific forums recommend it, but then lots of people here say it's not necessary.
He very active either. He still flared for the mirror but he just floats at the surface otherwise.
Should I keep feeding him peas until he's not floating anymore?
Feeling discouraged.
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Thanks, I'm just having flashbacks of losing my first betta like 15 years ago to fin rot, and that was before I had a clue what I was doing and I caught it very late. It's hard watching them just get slowly worse when you feel like you are doing what you are supposed to.
I've been doing 30-50% water changes every 3 or 4 days at this point. I was doing them more frequently but he seems to do worse after the changes (even with the water sitting out for days and temp matched). Since he is in a new 5 gal tank (with cycled media) the water is really clean. Checking his water in between changes and ammonia and nitrites are 0. Less than 5 nitrates. I know the dogma is daily water changes but he was just doing worse with that. I can imagine in a 1-2 gal jar that would be important... but he is in 5 gal with a filter... so yeah.
I ordered Jungle Fungus clear and kanaplex. My gut is telling me he needs meds. Especially since his water was never really that bad to begin with (he was in a cycled 10 gal alone with a filter, heater, plants, etc.). I'm wondering if him floating could also be related to an infection? He's not pineconed though... hmmm.
The other thing I've seen conflicting info on is some people say lower the temp below 80 so the bacteria don't reproduce as quickly, other's say make sure it's at 80 so the fish's immune system can function properly. So confusing!
I've been doing 30-50% water changes every 3 or 4 days at this point. I was doing them more frequently but he seems to do worse after the changes (even with the water sitting out for days and temp matched). Since he is in a new 5 gal tank (with cycled media) the water is really clean. Checking his water in between changes and ammonia and nitrites are 0. Less than 5 nitrates. I know the dogma is daily water changes but he was just doing worse with that. I can imagine in a 1-2 gal jar that would be important... but he is in 5 gal with a filter... so yeah.
I ordered Jungle Fungus clear and kanaplex. My gut is telling me he needs meds. Especially since his water was never really that bad to begin with (he was in a cycled 10 gal alone with a filter, heater, plants, etc.). I'm wondering if him floating could also be related to an infection? He's not pineconed though... hmmm.
The other thing I've seen conflicting info on is some people say lower the temp below 80 so the bacteria don't reproduce as quickly, other's say make sure it's at 80 so the fish's immune system can function properly. So confusing!
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Otto (my betta) was no better today, and fins looked a bit worse, so I started treatment with Jungle Fungus Clear. I should have kanaplex on the way as well but if he starts improving with this I won't do the Kanaplex.
Going to keep fasting him because he still has swim bladder issues (it's been 3 days). It's unfortunate because I'm sure being hungry isn't helping him heal.
Going to keep fasting him because he still has swim bladder issues (it's been 3 days). It's unfortunate because I'm sure being hungry isn't helping him heal.
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I had been feeding him HikarI vibra bites, broken up into smaller pieces. I had read people use them for their bettas and they actually have more protein than the betta formula from Hikari. He usually got 1 a day with 2 days fasting (he lives in my office so I would skip weekend feedings). Had no problems with them until this all started happening. I had started soaking them in Vita-chem around the time this happened. I might have unintentionally been feeding him a bit more than normal?
It's hard to know if the swim bladder is related to his fin rot, or the vita-chem, or just due to his food. I just got some Fluval betta "bug bites" for once he starts eating again to see if they are better for him. I gave him one bug bite pellet about 3 days ago and he did eat it.
It's hard to know if the swim bladder is related to his fin rot, or the vita-chem, or just due to his food. I just got some Fluval betta "bug bites" for once he starts eating again to see if they are better for him. I gave him one bug bite pellet about 3 days ago and he did eat it.
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I can't remember where I heard it, but I am thinking that it could of been Sheila from lifewithpets.. that a varied diet of pellets and frozen (bloodworms, brine shrimp or daphnia) but NOT freeze dried, can potentially help them from getting swim bladder.
The only thing with the vibra bites is it's first ingrediant is fish meal, though krill is second.. But I'd rather have krill as a first before fish meal. The vita-chem is good though, as well as garlic guard which has anti-bacterial properties.
The only thing with the vibra bites is it's first ingrediant is fish meal, though krill is second.. But I'd rather have krill as a first before fish meal. The vita-chem is good though, as well as garlic guard which has anti-bacterial properties.
Random Great Topic!
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