Ph 6.0 Too Low?


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No problem, but that's about as low as you want it to go. It also means you most likely have a very low GH/KH though, which can be a problem for fish and plants
 

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Guppies and Mollies can not survive long at that ph level, but I am suspect about your readings. At 6.0 ph ammonia is in the form of ammonium, which while safe for your fish, it is not processed by nitrosoma. The fact that you have nitrates means that they are processing ammonia and nitrites. You might consider having it checked by someone else to determine if there is an issue with the test kit.
 
My bad, forgot molly and guppy need harder water. So I would find a way to naturally raise it
 
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Would you guys recommend a ph med I can add into the water?
 

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Can it be I had the water too hot? The Heater I have was set to 79 but when I added a digital thermometer it showed 81. I have brought it back down to 79(although it reads 77 on the heater)
 
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Found this interesting in an article. My tank Cycled about 2 - 3 weeks ago. Could it be it will stabilize on its own?


“In addition to excess carbon dioxide and tannins in the water, a pH drop may also be caused by the nitrification stage of biological filtration. Nitrification is the process through which beneficial bacteria in the aquarium convert ammonia to nitrite and then into nitrate. Ammonia is a substance toxic to fish, so the process of converting it into nitrate is extremely important for maintaining a healthy tank. During this process, however, your tank may experience a natural drop in pH as a result of the production of nitrite ions. Once your tank has properly cycled, however, it should establish a balance capable of counteracting this drop in pH to keep the water chemistry stable for your tank inhabitants.”
Source: https://www.talkfishy.com/resources...e-main-causes-of-low-ph-in-an-aquarium-part-1
 
That is true, the cycling process can lower PH, but you would've needed to have ammonia, nitrites, or nitrates through the roof to make the water so acidic.
Could you do me a favor and test the PH from you tap water? It will be easier to find the cause/solution if I know that
 
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That is true, the cycling process can lower PH, but you would've needed to have ammonia, nitrites, or nitrates through the roof to make the water so acidic.
Could you do me a favor and test the PH from you tap water? It will be easier to find the cause/solution if I know that
Yes that’s what I’m planning to do once I get home
 

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From what I have read, a ph of 6.0 can make everything else unstable (not sure how true that is as I’ve only come across articles stating as such). It’s also been said that if ph drops anything below 6.0, it can stop bacteria from processing and go dormant or die off which can cause havoc on your tank. The amount of water changes you are doing should aid in keeping things stable but if you want to keep mollies and guppies, you’ll need to increase your KH (which will raise ph). May I ask what test kit you’re using to check your water parameters?

Seachem equilibrium reintroduces mineral content in your water when using a RO/DI system. If you want to raise your ph, you’ll want to use seachem’s alkaline buffer.
 
Equilibrium should raise the PH too, no? If it raises the KH and KH is directly related to PH would raising one not raise the other?
 
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I use API Liquid test tubes. May have been slightly above 6 I’m going to test when I get home and post photo
 
Equilibrium should raise the PH too, no? If it raises the KH and KH is directly related to PH would raising one not raise the other?
No it doesn’t. Well, it didn’t raise my ph when I was using RO/DI water anyway. I had to use an alkaline buffer to get my ph up to around 7.4 and keep it buffered since alkaline raises ph and KH. Equilibrium regulates and balances general hardness as it puts back minerals that RO/DI water lacks. It was kind of a pain to be honest because you have to measure it precisely every time you do a water change otherwise you can accidentally raise too much or not enough causing an imbalance. I ended up switching to spring water because my tap water is too high in ph for what I keep in my tank even when using an acid buffer to lower the ph. Again, I always had to measure the acid buffer precisely so that I don’t lower the ph too much.

For such a small tank (like mine), spring water was my best option. It keeps my ph consistent with a ph of 7.6, KH 4 and GH 5. It also provides 5ppm of nitrates which my plants love.

Seachem Equilibrium adds calcium and magnesium, raising your GH.

Seachem alkaline buffer adds (I believe) sodium bicarbonate, which raises your KH, thus raising your pH.

In your situation I’d simply add some crushed coral, calcium carbonate, which raises GH, KH, and pH.
100% correct. Equilibrium just puts back mineral content raising GH. Crushed coral will work but that takes time and you’d have to either add more or take out some of the coral if it ends up raising it too much or not enough however, with testing, it will help determine how much the ph is being raised but again, it takes time. If the op wants something that will work quickly, it’s best to use an alkaline buffer, then acclimate her livestock back into the tank to prevent shock.

I’ve gone through all of these things trying to raise my ph/KH. I ended up ditching the additives/chemicals and just stuck with spring water. For tanks that are less than 10 gallons, it’s better off just making it more simple rather than trying to continually fix it if that makes sense.
 
Take some tap water and leave it in a bucket for 24 hours to outgas ..Then test the pH to find natural real pH.
 

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Ok guys so the bluer one is from my Tap and lighter one is from my Tank. Looks like my tap is around 6.8 and tank is around 6.4?
Try the crushed coral. If you really want to raise it quickly, I’d suggest seachem alkaline buffer. Just remember that you’ll have to use the buffer every time you do a water change.
 
Your Ph is fine. Fish can adapt to almost any reasonable Ph level. What kills them off is sudden changes. Most casual fishkeepers kill their fish trying to add stuff to the water to make the Ph "ideal". They get huge swings in Ph levels, add more stuff, get more swings... and dead fish.

Tom
 
Ok all, I need help with PH. My tank ( fresh water ) has been up and running for years. I took it all down and moved the tank to a new location all within 4 hours. Reused 40% of the water then added new water. First off, this tank was moved all most 3 months ago. All my fish, and live plants ( about 20 of them ) are doing perfect. Fish all look very happy plants look beautiful and getting big. I do 65-75% water changes every week. All my levels are perfect except PH. PH out of the tap is 5 Fish tank is close to 6. I use the Fluval Master Test Kit. I also have been using PH up every night for about 1 month in my 55 gallon tank I use 1tsp and add it right into the water. I can not get my PH over 6. I have, guppies, neons, mollies, platties, black ghost, glo fish, gourmai, and nerite snails. Should I keep adding PH up, or Should I not go crazy trying to get it to 7-7.5???
 
Ok all, I need help with PH. My tank ( fresh water ) has been up and running for years. I took it all down and moved the tank to a new location all within 4 hours. Reused 40% of the water then added new water. First off, this tank was moved all most 3 months ago. All my fish, and live plants ( about 20 of them ) are doing perfect. Fish all look very happy plants look beautiful and getting big. I do 65-75% water changes every week. All my levels are perfect except PH. PH out of the tap is 5 Fish tank is close to 6. I use the Fluval Master Test Kit. I also have been using PH up every night for about 1 month in my 55 gallon tank I use 1tsp and add it right into the water. I can not get my PH over 6. I have, guppies, neons, mollies, platties, black ghost, glo fish, gourmai, and nerite snails. Should I keep adding PH up, or Should I not go crazy trying to get it to 7-7.5???

I’m not a fan of using ph up because it will fluctuate. Best to keep it stable instead of chasing a specific ph. Your ph is low... a bit too low for snails as their shells will erode but you can add calcium to their diet to help with that. I’ve found that using seachems alkaline buffer is better than any other ph additive on the market. Crushed coral will work too however, that will take time.
 
Lol, PH up does kinda suck, that's why I suggested seachem alkaline buffer
I’ve heard horror stories with ph up so I’d never recommend it to anyone. Seachems alkaline buffer is easy to use and would keep my ph stable before the next water change (which I’d have to precisely measure to keep my ph at the same level previously).

I found an alternative since my tank is so small... I use bottled spring water now so I don’t have to chase ph anymore. Not a good alternative for tanks over 10 gallons though. Crushed coral became a mess after a while because of how it dissolves, leaving me with salt sized grains... thankfully I have sand as substrate so it wasn’t really an issue until I used seachem... I prefer the alkaline buffer over anything else. It’s my first go to when dealing with ph. Haven’t found a better product then seachem.
 
Me too, especially PH down. I don't remember it exactly, but I read that PH up/down tries to override the natural buffers in the water so it doesn't make any difference until it uses up all the water's buffer. Then since you were just adding and adding with no difference, the PH suddenly sky rockets, or nose dives to the floor. Both of which are great ways to wipe out a whole tank
 
Me too, especially PH down. I don't remember it exactly, but I read that PH up/down tries to override the natural buffers in the water so it doesn't make any difference until it uses up all the water's buffer. Then since you were just adding and adding with no difference, the PH suddenly sky rockets, or nose dives to the floor. Both of which are great ways to wipe out a whole tank
Exactly! I say if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it. Most fish will adapt to ph. It’s the inverts that need the extra TLC when it comes to ph/GH/KH.
 

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When nothing is broke, why are you trying to pour stuff into the water to "fix" it? More fish have been killed by swings in Ph from well-intended aquarium keepers adding and subtracting "stuff" to their tanks than have ever been killed by just having a stable, clean water environment. Fish easily adapt to a STABLE environment, even if the parameters are not precisely what they would encounter in the wild.

Tom
 
To start I have to say I never ( I repeat ) I never use to test my water, and I never lost a fish other then having them for years. My 2 angels lived for 14 years. I started to test once I started keeping live plants. My 2 LFS that I go to and a few neighbors and or friends that have tanks, all say that a PH of 6 is borderline low. If it was my call, I would throw away the **** test kit and go by my eye. I do agree, if its not broke, why fix it. BUT my PH is broke, its low very low. NO??
 
To start I have to say I never ( I repeat ) I never use to test my water, and I never lost a fish other then having them for years. My 2 angels lived for 14 years. I started to test once I started keeping live plants. My 2 LFS that I go to and a few neighbors and or friends that have tanks, all say that a PH of 6 is borderline low. If it was my call, I would throw away the test kit and go by my eye. I do agree, if its not broke, why fix it. BUT my PH is broke, its low very low. NO??
If it goes below 6... even at a 5.8, I’ve heard that beneficial bacteria stops working becomes dormant or dies (definitely not good for any inhabitants). Not sure how true that is but I’ve heard it through other fish keepers who have been in the hobby for decades so I’ll take their word for it.

While I agree that fish will adapt to ph with the exception of rare, sensitive/wild types, inverts aren’t so forgiving. A slight increase in my nitrates caused my nerite to get to the water column (literally out of the water which he’s never done) for a few days and that was only with 25ish ppm of nitrates... most likely because I was experimenting with dosing of ferts with extremely low soluble copper... everything else was fine per my master kit readings. My plants enjoyed the ferts but my nerite hated it... that’s how sensitive they are.

I would try to add some calcium enriched foods for the snails (I use repashy super green mixed with calcium powder), add some cuttlebone to the tank as well. Hide it somewhere that the snails can get to and graze on and use the alkaline buffer from seachem or crushed coral if you want your ph to go up and stay at a stable level. You’d have to dose the alkaline with every water change though. I used to use a digital measuring spoon to get as precise I could with it otherwise it’s really easy to overdose/underdose and have your ph swing quickly causing harm to your livestock.

I honestly gave up with all those additives after months of use and stuck with spring water since my tank is small. My ph now stays consist (7.6) but my GH/KH is low with 4-5gh and 2-3kh. Lately my KH has stayed around 4 and I think it’s because of the cuttlebone as I have not added anything else besides that.

I wish I could give you some more options but seeing that your tank volume is a lot more than mine, spring water is out of the question (especially since bottled water like that ranges in ph depending on where you live anyway).

If it were me, I’d try the crushed coral first as I think it would be the best option... it won’t raise it quickly which is good so to not shock your livestock. You can gradually increase it as needed and you won’t have to keep adding it constantly when doing water changes. Add it in your filter or sprinkle it on your substrate. Add it in a bag right under the outflow of your filter if you have a hob so it will dissolve better.

I love seachem but I started using that when I didn’t have stock in the tank. Because you have fish in already, I’d try the method that will be the least harmful to your inhabitants (crushed coral).

If you want to forgo the coral and go straight to the good stuff (seachem), start off slow... add more with every water change until you get to your desired ph so you don’t shock your fish and potentially kill them in the process.

I hope this all helps.
 
Thanks so much, I think I will go with the crushed coral. Can I get that at a LFS??
 

Random Great Topic!

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