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Car Guys/girls?
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I think everyone doesn't like the grille. Other than that, it's pretty good looking.
Maybe a grille similar to that of the GT-R (which, as the rumors say, might be going away) would help.
Lol that's a good story. Ahh, the glory days of BMW.
IMO the C7 is the best looking of the modern Vette's. They nailed it.
Yeah the C8 looks great, but I still think it's a little jagged, or too "busy" when it doesn't need to be.
The '63, for me, is not only the best looking Vette of all time, it's also one of the best looking cars of all time.
I know they sell them in the U.K. Lol British people always get excited when they see them.
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I got a MINI again. But after the above conversation, I don't expect anyone will be impressed. I consider myself a "Car Girl" but I don't have the specs on the latest $100K+ car that I will never be able to drive. I prefer to get the best, most fun, right-for-me car that I can actually own.
My BMW had some strikes against it, things coming down the pipe I didn't want to deal with - multiple chips in my rain-sensing windshield, and it was an SULEV. I don't live in a SULEV state, so in another four years or so when I would've had to replace the fuel system to the tune of 5-6 grand, it would have been completely on me. It had a vibration at speed that was a little disconcerting to me...and all other justification aside, I missed my old MINI every day. Yesterday I drove my stepson's MINI just to see if it was as much fun as I remembered. It was. So I went home and got the BMW and traded it on this. Yes, I took a bath in negative equity. I don't wanna talk about that part lol.
My BMW had some strikes against it, things coming down the pipe I didn't want to deal with - multiple chips in my rain-sensing windshield, and it was an SULEV. I don't live in a SULEV state, so in another four years or so when I would've had to replace the fuel system to the tune of 5-6 grand, it would have been completely on me. It had a vibration at speed that was a little disconcerting to me...and all other justification aside, I missed my old MINI every day. Yesterday I drove my stepson's MINI just to see if it was as much fun as I remembered. It was. So I went home and got the BMW and traded it on this. Yes, I took a bath in negative equity. I don't wanna talk about that part lol.
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Basically still a BMW lol.
Nice acquisition! My brother was looking at a Countryman...until he did a car fax and found out it was a rebuilt title .
Buuuuut he ended up with something WAY cooler and rarer. THIS bad boy .
It's hard to see from this pic, but the wheels are red. When this picture was taken, it had no muffler, so it was, um, very loud. The turbo, coilovers and ECU are all upgraded (a stage 1 tune if you will). It's pretty cool .
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Exhaust will probably be a thing I do. Not as loud as my previous MINI... There are neighbors who still hate me for that. And yes, a MINI must have a vanity plate! Now to figure out how to spell it because being NC (Camp Lejuene, Cherry Point AFB, Fort Bragg...) I'm fairly certain some Mustang driver already has "MAVERICK"
I don't know if I'll change anything cosmetically besides tinting the front windows (rear and sides are factory tinted). I love the way this one looks just like it is
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It's not too bad. Because it's classified as a "compact SUV" I could have the sides and rear as dark as I want. And...having a visually impaired person would qualify us for a medical waiver for the fronts if I wanted, too. But, when inspection time comes, you just gotta have a guy.
I'm thinking MAVRYK. If nothing else, we have no front plate here so I can get something made for the front. That's what I did on the old MINI, Lucky.
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Met DarkOne yesterday to pick up some of his sterbai corys. Great looking corys!! And thought this was appropriate.
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Hey guys! I ran into somewhat of a weird issue yesterday. So my dad has a 20' Infiniti QX80 that we got a few months ago, but due to the current situation around the world, we haven't driven it that much. Usually, we start it up and take it for a little spin one or two times a week, but recently we hadn't driven it for around 10 days. So yesterday when I go to start it, the car wasn't responding to the key fob, and when I unlock the door with the key and go inside it's completely dead. No response or nothing. This was quite shocking to me as it had only been 10 days since we last started it, and we've left it unstarted for 10 days a few times ago too, but never has the battery died. So any suggestions as to what to do? We tried jumping it but that didn't work either.
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I’d say the battery’s dead. New cars have so much going on. So much feeding off the battery. Didn’t happen before because you were using it regular and the battery was fully charged when you parked it for 10 days. This time with the lack of use before the battery wasn’t fully charged so it was drained.
Why it won’t take a charge I bet is because the computer isn’t letting it. May need a computer setting to recharge. Time to call the dealer.
Why it won’t take a charge I bet is because the computer isn’t letting it. May need a computer setting to recharge. Time to call the dealer.
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Do you have a multimeter? You can check the charge of your battery. It should be at a minimum of 12.2v.
If the battery is too low, you'll need to connect the jumpers and let the running car run for a few mins (10-20m) to charge the dead battery before it will start. Jumper cables can't pass the amperage needed to start a dead battery but it can boost a weak battery.
If the battery is too low, you'll need to connect the jumpers and let the running car run for a few mins (10-20m) to charge the dead battery before it will start. Jumper cables can't pass the amperage needed to start a dead battery but it can boost a weak battery.
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I use a Battery Tender on my vehicles as I can not drive them all regularly . They are not chargers that will over charge your battery but instead keep your battery from becoming depleted keeping them perfectly charged ..
Battery Tender® Plus 12V, 1.25 Amp Battery Charger
Battery Tender® Plus 12V, 1.25 Amp Battery Charger
If emissions regulations are causing you grief maybe get an electric? Lots of power, INSANE torque, pretty much always in it's optimal power range regardless of rpm, if i ever did a drag car i would totally go electric, electric drag cars are crazy.
I'm really into Japanese tuner cars. At first i thought i was one of only a few people who where into both cars and fish but maybe these two hobbies are linked
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That is true, also electrics don't have stick shift (manual) transmissions, aka the most fun type if transmission. Because electric cars have such a wide power band, that they don't need to shift gears, which is both a blessing and a curse, as it results in a faster 0-60, but also means you can't go rowing through gears, which is a lot of fun.
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I have the one linked and the smaller .75a tender. I also have a Battery Minder which desulfates batteries and reconditions old batteries. It works better than Battery Tenders but I use all 3 for various motorcycles and car batteries.
https://www.amazon.com/BatteryMINDer-Model-1500-SmarTECHnology-Motorcycles/dp/B00Q3CM2QY/
Some people don't like change. Shifting gears is fun but it's slow and no one can do it as fast as a modern auto dual clutch transmission or electric CVT.
My '98 M3 could do 0-60 in 5.2 sec. After I got a tune, it dropped to about 4.8 sec because the top speed in 2nd gear went from 58mph to 62mph so the 0.4 sec increase was from not having to shift to 3rd to get over 60mph. This was tested at Willow Springs race track. I had a friend that worked for European Car mag and they brought some testing gear so we played around. The 5.2 sec was the fasted time taken from car mags back then and the 4.8 sec was what my car actually did.
If I were to buy a sports car today, I would definitely get an automagic trasns if it was a true dual clutch system and no torque converter.
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Only issue I have run into with electronic shifting (paddle or step) is the electronic nanny fighting the shift based on wheel speed. If I pull down to 2nd at 100+, it should be assumed I mean it, and failure to comply will produce significant under-steer, and possibly even excessive traction on entry leading to a stability issue. I wouldn't pull down to 2nd at speed if I didn't fully expect the engine to give the feedback required to scuff the tires in, and provide the right power band to exit the corner on the line I want to hold.
I've had issues with this in BMW, and Chevy made vehicles. I don't want to be stabbing the brake messing with my front tires traction circle and blow my line out because some enginerd says "hey, this rpm does not equal that wheel speed so don't shift when he tell you to".
Note: I won't argue auto cars don't have their place in traffic, eating cheeseburgers and yelling at your children while you check twitter and run over motorcycles. I won't argue that in a straight line with a high end set up you never plan to modify even the tire width on it can out shift a human. But I will say theres a major difference in the dual clutch manual-matics with air/electronic shifters that are actually just manual, and the trash they make so you can feel cool pushing a button leaving cars and coffee in an automatic car that even in "manual mode" decides what gear you are allowed to use. I can't drive one like that for fun, and I can't afford a dual clutch manual-matic with actuators so I guess that puts my track and toys firmly in the manual only camp.
I've had issues with this in BMW, and Chevy made vehicles. I don't want to be stabbing the brake messing with my front tires traction circle and blow my line out because some enginerd says "hey, this rpm does not equal that wheel speed so don't shift when he tell you to".
Note: I won't argue auto cars don't have their place in traffic, eating cheeseburgers and yelling at your children while you check twitter and run over motorcycles. I won't argue that in a straight line with a high end set up you never plan to modify even the tire width on it can out shift a human. But I will say theres a major difference in the dual clutch manual-matics with air/electronic shifters that are actually just manual, and the trash they make so you can feel cool pushing a button leaving cars and coffee in an automatic car that even in "manual mode" decides what gear you are allowed to use. I can't drive one like that for fun, and I can't afford a dual clutch manual-matic with actuators so I guess that puts my track and toys firmly in the manual only camp.
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YESS! This! My BMW had a dual-clutch automatic with paddle shifters that I never used because I'd shift down, and she'd go thirty feet and shift up again. Nanny-shifting is a perfect way to put it.
Now, Maverick has this lovely feature that revs the engine to match your wheel speed when you downshift, which is nice for not throwing my dear husband against the dash when I downshift to go hard into a corner (although sadly usually it's just the corner onto the freeway ramp). But it also makes traffic less jolting when I'm constantly speeding up and slowing down. I got an automatic BMW because I thought I was tired of shifting gears on my sometimes-long commute, but it turns out I just needed a better reason to shift gears than I could find in a Civic. I'm sure I was doing something wrong before. When I first learned I went through 2 clutches on my '85 Fiero in three years, and I'm pretty certain because my ex rode it like crazy. So I'm leery of "feathering" as my husband puts it, because to me I can't see the difference between feathering and riding. Maybe one of yall can splain it to me.
Oh....and I got stickers. +10 HP...
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I’ve always been into classic cars. Grew up going to multiple classic car shows every year, helping my dad with pretty much anything that needed fixed from trucks to tractors and implements (my brothers were always too busy), and we all had classic cars for our first vehicles. Mine was an ‘89 Chevy Luv. Then later, I had a ‘79 Grand Prix. Now I have a ‘76 Jeep J10. Love them! I don’t know everything about fixing them or working on them. Just enough to get me into trouble lol
Stickers definitely add more horsepower lol I think I know what you mean by feathering. If you’re talking about what I think you’re talking about, it basically is riding a bit but shouldn’t cause you to have to replace the clutch twice in three years. Somebody had to be riding the clutch fairly hard for that! That’s actually one of the last major fights my ex and I had lol him riding the brand new clutch I put in my Wrangler. I taught him how to drive a stick but that’s not how I taught him! Lol the look on my dads face when he found out my ex didn’t already know how to drive a manual was just priceless
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Ha I have a Wrangler too! Going from the Wrangler to the Mini and back in a day makes for some interesting stops and starts, I can tell you. Plus we have re-geared the Wrangler with 5.56 gears so it's like driving a dump truck. By the time the wheels go around once it's time to shift into 2nd gear.
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So my car battery has been getting weak since I don't drive much. I bought a 25' jumper cable but it's a pain to use so I came across these little jumper kits. After doing some research, I decided to try one.
https://www.amazon.com/LOFTEK-20800mAh-Starter-Portable-Battery/dp/B0863CG2T7/
I know a lot of people aren't using their cars during this pandemic so there's a lot of dead/dying batteries out there.
https://www.amazon.com/LOFTEK-20800mAh-Starter-Portable-Battery/dp/B0863CG2T7/
I know a lot of people aren't using their cars during this pandemic so there's a lot of dead/dying batteries out there.
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I had one of "those" mornings on my winter beater today. I think I might have to go back to driving the cage. I haven't had the guts to look at the welt it (the broken drive belt) left on my back yet, just glad the car behind me didn't hit me when it wrapped around the wheel... Did stay rubber side down.
They salt the roads in the winter here, this whole bike cost less than a set of snow tires for the Tahoe, 4 years and 50,000 miles mostly in the bad weather since I have more fun stuff to ride/drive in the summer. It's much easier to wash this weekly than clay and rub the black Tahoe to get the paint clean... I have some thinking to do.
They salt the roads in the winter here, this whole bike cost less than a set of snow tires for the Tahoe, 4 years and 50,000 miles mostly in the bad weather since I have more fun stuff to ride/drive in the summer. It's much easier to wash this weekly than clay and rub the black Tahoe to get the paint clean... I have some thinking to do.
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Glad someone played the game lol. The uppers for my Tahoe's tube arms; had a heck of a time getting one arm back in as they have taken a slight twist over the years. This is the third set of bushings in ~140,000 miles (and I do keep them greased). The factory rubber type don't fit my tube arms sadly, I've had the oem rubber go 150,000 on a single set.
I don't feel like the poly is worth it in my application unless I'm towing heavy and need the extra feel up front. I wouldn't trade the tube arms and drop for the factory stuff though, the stability is insane and it matches frame height with my big trailer.
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Random Great Topic!
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