10 gal. kuhli loaches or Cory catfish stocking

MangoPineapple

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Hi! I am hoping to get a 10 gallon tank soon and I would like either kuhli loaches or Cory catfish, would that be ok? It would be a heavily planted, species only tank with sand on the bottom. And possibly dwarf hairgrass. I know they need to be kept in groups of 3-4, could I fit that many in a 10 gallon? Are there any dwarf versions if the big ones are too big?
 

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I'm not familiar with kuhlis but I'm inclined to say yes there.

There are a few species of cories that you could do nice size groups. C. Pygmaeus are tiny and you could do a bunch. C. Habrosus and C. Hastatus are slightly larger but still very small.
 

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My personal experience with loaches is to put them in a bigger tank. I had mine in a 10 gal for about 2 weeks until I put them into my 40 gal. Once I moved them they absolutely thrived.

Corys on the other hand I don’t have much personal experience with but I have been doing lots of research to put them in my 20 gal. Corys may be a better choice especially if you want to see and watch them. Loaches like to hide under rocks and decorations and every possible crevice they can find.

this is just my thoughts and experience though. I definitely recommend your own research on both fish.
 
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I'm not familiar with kuhlis but I'm inclined to say yes there.

There are a few species of cories that you could do nice size groups. C. Pygmaeus are tiny and you could do a bunch. C. Habrosus and C. Hastatus are slightly larger but still very small.
Thank you so much! I’ll make sure to do lots of research on care requirements for those types of cories. I’m not really worried about them being flashy or anything, I mostly want a really nice planted tank with a couple of small fish. Is there any way to ensure I get all males or all females? I don’t really want them to breed as I don’t have enough space for the babies. Also are there any other types of dwarf catfish I could possibly get? I would like to have lots of options so I can decide what would be best for my tank.
My personal experience with loaches is to put them in a bigger tank. I had mine in a 10 gal for about 2 weeks until I put them into my 40 gal. Once I moved them they absolutely thrived.

Corys on the other hand I don’t have much personal experience with but I have been doing lots of research to put them in my 20 gal. Corys may be a better choice especially if you want to see and watch them. Loaches like to hide under rocks and decorations and every possible crevice they can find.

this is just my thoughts and experience though. I definitely recommend your own research on both fish.
Thank you so much, I’ll make sure to do lots of research, I just wanted to know if it could be done
 
I don't think you'll run the risk of them overpopulation unless you pull the babies to raise them up. Another cool catfish that stays tiny is the dwarf anchor cat, hara jerdoni
 
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I don't think you'll run the risk of them overpopulation unless you pull the babies to raise them up. Another cool catfish that stays tiny is the dwarf anchor cat, hara jerdoni
Could I possibly do a small species of oto's? I was thinking of maybe getting
Otocinclus cocama I think they're really cute, but if they'll get too big then I'll be fine not getting them. That dwarf anchor cat looks awesome! Although it just doesn't quite go with the theme I have in mind for my tank. Also would you recommend C. pygmaeus or C. habrosus more?
 

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Could I possibly do a small species of oto's? I was thinking of maybe getting
Otocinclus cocama I think they're really cute, but if they'll get too big then I'll be fine not getting them. That dwarf anchor cat looks awesome! Although it just doesn't quite go with the theme I have in mind for my tank. Also would you recommend C. pygmaeus or C. habrosus more?
Get ready for others to chime in and say I'm wrong, but yes you can do otos. I have mine in a 10. The issue isn't bioload, but feeding. Some otos will never take artificial food and they'll starve after they wipe out the available grazing in a small tank. But if you end up getting otos that will eat prepared foods like mine do, they do just fine in a 10.

As for pygmaeus vs habrosus that's mostly up to personal taste. I prefer pygmaeus myself.
 
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Get ready for others to chime in and say I'm wrong, but yes you can do otos. I have mine in a 10. The issue isn't bioload, but feeding. Some otos will never take artificial food and they'll starve after they wipe out the available grazing in a small tank. But if you end up getting otos that will eat prepared foods like mine do, they do just fine in a 10.

As for pygmaeus vs habrosus that's mostly up to personal taste. I prefer pygmaeus myself.
How many oto's should I have in a 10 gal. tank? If I do end up with oto's that don't eat other foods besides algae, should I start growing some algae in another tank for them to eat? I have a jar that I could use, if so how would I go about starting that?
 
How many oto's should I have in a 10 gal. tank? If I do end up with oto's that don't eat other foods besides algae, should I start growing some algae in another tank for them to eat? I have a jar that I could use, if so how would I go about starting that?
As a species only well planted tank? You could get away with 6 or 7. As for the feeding I couldn't speak to that. I just fed mine how I planned to feed them and either they adapted or they didn't. I replaced the ones who didn't make it until I had my group established.
 
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As a species only well planted tank? You could get away with 6 or 7. As for the feeding I couldn't speak to that. I just fed mine how I planned to feed them and either they adapted or they didn't. I replaced the ones who didn't make it until I had my group established.
Ok, I think 6 sounds good to me. I would prefer to not just replace them, but if it happens it happens. I'll do research on growing algae, any specific type they like the best? Is there any risk of overpopulation? And where can I buy some nice driftwood and rocks for them? What parameters do they seem to like best?
 
You don't run the risk of overpopulation. They're pretty difficult to breed in captivity even if you're trying on purpose. As far as parameters, they're actually very tolerant of a range of parameters once they're healthy. New otos are very fragile, but once they're well established they become pretty bulletproof.
 

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You don't run the risk of overpopulation. They're pretty difficult to breed in captivity even if you're trying on purpose. As far as parameters, they're actually very tolerant of a range of parameters once they're healthy. New otos are very fragile, but once they're well established they become pretty bulletproof.
What is the best way to acclimate them and make sure they're healthy after they're all in my tank?
Also do you know of any good places to get them? Either online or in-store, I don't mind either way. I live in the US by the way
 
I'd aim for your LFS, that way you can see them before you buy. You're looking for nice full bellies. Starvation really is the biggest threat with otos.
 
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I'd aim for your LFS, that way you can see them before you buy. You're looking for nice full bellies. Starvation really is the biggest threat with otos.
I would love to but I live in a smaller town that just has a petsmart or petco and I don't trust them. And the only other LFS I have is 30 minutes away and they don't even have them. I checked their website. What kind of plants, substrate, driftwood and rocks do they like?
 
I would love to but I live in a smaller town that just has a petsmart or petco and I don't trust them. And the only other LFS I have is 30 minutes away and they don't even have them. I checked their website. What kind of plants, substrate, driftwood and rocks do they like?
That's all up to personal taste really. I will warn you though that if the tank is new, you might be better off going with the cories unless you're willing to wait a while. Otos do best when added to a tank that isn't just cycled, but also well established and seasoned. New tanks are often just too "clean" for them.
 
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That's all up to personal taste really. I will warn you though that if the tank is new, you might be better off going with the cories unless you're willing to wait a while. Otos do best when added to a tank that isn't just cycled, but also well established and seasoned. New tanks are often just too "clean" for them.
I am willing to wait a few months for my tank to mature, would it be ok to put some guppies I already have in there for a while to speed up the process? After a few months of the guppies, I would put them back into their own tank, does that sound ok? Plus I will probably be dosing with API fertilizer, would that help algae growth?
 
I am willing to wait a few months for my tank to mature, would it be ok to put some guppies I already have in there for a while to speed up the process? After a few months of the guppies, I would put them back into their own tank, does that sound ok? Plus I will probably be dosing with API fertilizer, would that help algae growth?
The guppies living in there will certainly be better beforehand, yea. Something living and pooping in there really is necessary to boost up the biological ecosystem for a truly mature tank (note: I'm differentiating between "mature" and "cycled". Still make sure you cycle the tank before adding guppies.)

Start off low with the fertilizer and watch your plants is the best advice I can give there for now. Every tank is different, and my fert routine will be different from yours. The key point to remember is algae feeds on whatever you have in excess. Too much light, too much of any one macronutrient, not enough of another, these can all lead to algae. You've got us here at fishlore to help you if and when you run in to issues.

Remember, while otos are "algae eaters" they won't eat hair algae, black beard, or tougher stuff in general. You'll want to keep those at bay.

Also, for what it's worth. Most sources will list otos as strictly herbivores, but I've seen mine chowing on shrimp pellets and frozen food. The fact that I've seen them regularly taking advantage of protein like this tells me that they're likely benefitting from the micro fauna living IN the algae as much as they are from the algae itself. All the more reason to stress tank maturity.
 
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The guppies living in there will certainly be better beforehand, yea. Something living and pooping in there really is necessary to boost up the biological ecosystem for a truly mature tank (note: I'm differentiating between "mature" and "cycled". Still make sure you cycle the tank before adding guppies.)

Start off low with the fertilizer and watch your plants is the best advice I can give there for now. Every tank is different, and my fert routine will be different from yours. The key point to remember is algae feeds on whatever you have in excess. Too much light, too much of any one macronutrient, not enough of another, these can all lead to algae. You've got us here at fishlore to help you if and when you run in to issues.

Remember, while otos are "algae eaters" they won't eat hair algae, black beard, or tougher stuff in general. You'll want to keep those at bay.

Also, for what it's worth. Most sources will list otos as strictly herbivores, but I've seen mine chowing on shrimp pellets and frozen food. The fact that I've seen them regularly taking advantage of protein like this tells me that they're likely benefitting from the micro fauna living IN the algae as much as they are from the algae itself. All the more reason to stress tank maturity.
Alright thank you, I’ll make sure to cycle and mature my tank before getting one. I also have algae wafers and could get shrimp pellets if needed too
 
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The guppies living in there will certainly be better beforehand, yea. Something living and pooping in there really is necessary to boost up the biological ecosystem for a truly mature tank (note: I'm differentiating between "mature" and "cycled". Still make sure you cycle the tank before adding guppies.)

Start off low with the fertilizer and watch your plants is the best advice I can give there for now. Every tank is different, and my fert routine will be different from yours. The key point to remember is algae feeds on whatever you have in excess. Too much light, too much of any one macronutrient, not enough of another, these can all lead to algae. You've got us here at fishlore to help you if and when you run in to issues.

Remember, while otos are "algae eaters" they won't eat hair algae, black beard, or tougher stuff in general. You'll want to keep those at bay.

Also, for what it's worth. Most sources will list otos as strictly herbivores, but I've seen mine chowing on shrimp pellets and frozen food. The fact that I've seen them regularly taking advantage of protein like this tells me that they're likely benefitting from the micro fauna living IN the algae as much as they are from the algae itself. All the more reason to stress tank maturity.
I have a lot of questions, would it be ok to continue messaging you about them? One of which would be, is it ok to not have a lid on a oto only tank? Do I run the risk of them jumping out or do they prefer to stay in the tank?
 
Yea that's fine! And you don't run a huge risk of jumping with otos, but it's a possibility with any fish. Plus a lid helps with evaporation. I always use lids on all of my tanks.
 
about feeding, i would recommend adding otos after at least a couple months of the tank running with some light stocking, plants, fertiliser, inverts etc. in it. This allows time for the aufwuchs colonies to develop so food will be plentiful. I’d run the tank for 2-3 months with the guppies and some plants before adding otos. :)
 

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about feeding, i would recommend adding otos after at least a couple months of the tank running with some light stocking, plants, fertiliser, inverts etc. in it. This allows time for the aufwuchs colonies to develop so food will be plentiful. I’d run the tank for 2-3 months with the guppies and some plants before adding otos. :)
Thank you for the advice! My current plan is to get it cycled and scaped by mid-October and get the guppies in by December, allow them to live in it for 2-4 months then place them back in their old tank.
Yea that's fine! And you don't run a huge risk of jumping with otos, but it's a possibility with any fish. Plus a lid helps with evaporation. I always use lids on all of my tanks.
Ok thank you, I was just thinking about getting a piece of driftwood that left my tank a little, but I would rather have less evaporation and eliminate the possibility of jumping

Also I am kind of flipping back and forth between oto's and pygmy cory's, I enjoy the look of oto's more but their care seems a bit complex as opposed to pygmy cory's. Which one would you recommend? Also if I was going to start a community tank with 3 guppies I already have, two shrimps and two snails as well as cory's, would that be ok? Or should I stick to a species only tank?
 
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pygmy corys would be easier yes, but you can go with either. Keep in mind they have different diets, corys mostly eat meat. feed a staple of high quality sinking wafers or pellets that are meat-based, plus live and frozen foods like bloodworms, brine shrimp or ostracods. :)
Would Hikari sinking algae wafers be a good staple diet? Or is that too vegetarian for them? I just have some lying around that I want to get some use out of, though they do close the option of having shrimp or snails in the future, unless the copper content is low enough it won’t kill them? I also have freeze dried blood worms that I could use as a treat for them. Would my homemade food be ok? The ingredients are unsweetened, unflavored gelatin, peas, I think carrots, broccoli, cauliflower, bell pepper, paprika and unsalted, canned salmon, as well as a little bit of pumpkin purée, would all that be ok or is it going to ruin my water quality?
 
Would Hikari sinking algae wafers be a good staple diet? Or is that too vegetarian for them? I just have some lying around that I want to get some use out of, though they do close the option of having shrimp or snails in the future, unless the copper content is low enough it won’t kill them? I also have freeze dried blood worms that I could use as a treat for them. Would my homemade food be ok? The ingredients are unsweetened, unflavored gelatin, peas, I think carrots, broccoli, cauliflower, bell pepper, paprika and unsalted, canned salmon, as well as a little bit of pumpkin purée, would all that be ok or is it going to ruin my water quality?
for the hikari, are they in the orange or the green packet? orange is good for corys. green one not so much.

As for the homemade food it sounds good. I don’t think it would ruin your water if you used it sparingly. If you go with corys put a bit more salmon in.
 
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for the hikari, are they in the orange or the green packet? orange is good for corys. green one not so much.

As for the homemade food it sounds good. I don’t think it would ruin your water if you used it sparingly. If you go with corys put a bit more salmon in.
I already have a ton made and need to use it up, I will just supplement with bloodworms every few days, would that be ok? And it's the one in the green packet, so I guess it's pretty much useless to me

Also I am planning to heavily plant this and would like to know which aquarium soil would be the best for cory's, would you happen to know? I would prefer something that came in a dark color, preferably black as my capping substrate will be black too and I don't want a line where the two merge. It will be capped with aqua diamond quartz sand by the way, so I'm just looking for something that won't mess with the pH or my cycle.
 
I already have a ton made and need to use it up, I will just supplement with bloodworms every few days, would that be ok?
Sounds good to me if you mean the home made food.
Also I am planning to heavily plant this and would like to know which aquarium soil would be the best for cory's, would you happen to know? I would prefer something that came in a dark color, preferably black as my capping substrate will be black too and I don't want a line where the two merge. It will be capped with aqua diamond quartz sand by the way, so I'm just looking for something that won't mess with the pH or my cycle.
With a sand cap, you can use pretty much any soil so long as it's organic with no extra fertilisers or pesticides. For my walstad-inspired tanks I've always used organic soil from Scotts. An equal amount of soil and cap works for me, maybe more cap to be safe. 2 inches of each is usually what I aim for. :)
 
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Sounds good to me if you mean the home made food.

With a sand cap, you can use pretty much any soil so long as it's organic with no extra fertilisers or pesticides. For my walstad-inspired tanks I've always used organic soil from Scotts. An equal amount of soil and cap works for me, maybe more cap to be safe. 2 inches of each is usually what I aim for. :)
Ok thank you! I'll probably end up using something aquarium safe just for my own peace of mind, I also recently put Miracle Gro Potting Soil in my guppy tank, is that going to throw off my parameters? I think it has some fertilizers in it, though I used Cuprisorb to get any copper it may have been leaching, I also sifted and baked it so there's no huge pieces of mulch or fertilizer. Should I be concerned about that?
 
Ok thank you! I'll probably end up using something aquarium safe just for my own peace of mind, I also recently put Miracle Gro Potting Soil in my guppy tank, is that going to throw off my parameters? I think it has some fertilizers in it, though I used Cuprisorb to get any copper it may have been leaching, I also sifted and baked it so there's no huge pieces of mulch or fertilizer. Should I be concerned about that?
I think it should be fine so long as it’s capped. I’ve used both miracle gro and osmocote soil with success, without baking it mind you.
 
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I think it should be fine so long as it’s capped. I’ve used both miracle gro and osmocote soil with success, without baking it mind you.
I only baked it to remove any parasites that might’ve been in it as it had been sitting open for a while
 

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yeah so your setup will be safer than mine. :)
I just figured better safe than sorry lol. I didn't want my guppies to get sick from any fertilizers that may be in there, although it does seem as though my nitrates are being sucked out of the water. It was at roughly 10-15 ppm just a few days ago and today it was at almost zero, ammonia is almost zero too while nitrites are at zero. Should I be concerned about this?
 
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Assuming the guppy tank is cycled I don't think there's anything to be concerned about. The low nitrates is likely from lots of plants and water changes, and the API ammonia test often reads 0.25 when there's zero.
Since I re-scaped the whole thing it restarted the cycle, but since I used my old filter media it kickstarted the process considerably. Though I didn't rinse the sand well enough so I had to do a ton of water changes to clear the cloudiness so that probably lowered the nitrates. And I would much rather wait until I get a positive zero on the ammonia before I put them in, just in case it is actually reading the correct amounts of ammonia
 
I'm not familiar with kuhlis but I'm inclined to say yes there.

There are a few species of cories that you could do nice size groups. C. Pygmaeus are tiny and you could do a bunch. C. Habrosus and C. Hastatus are slightly larger but still very small.
IMO it is a common misconception fish are suitable for a small tank cause of their size. A lot of smaller fish need more swimmingspace, more compagnions AND often are more sensitive to changing waterparameters.
I struggled to keep C.habrosus in a 15 G tank though C.aeneus never was for instance.

Also IMO think a 10G is too small for any kind of Cory or fish. Some killifish are an exception to that.
 
IMO it is a common misconception fish are suitable for a small tank cause of their size. A lot of smaller fish need more swimmingspace, more compagnions AND often are more sensitive to changing waterparameters.
I struggled to keep C.habrosus in a 15 G tank though C.aeneus never was for instance.

Also IMO think a 10G is too small for any kind of Cory or fish. Some killifish are an exception to that.
Admittedly I've never personally kept habrosus, but I had quite a large group of pygmaeus that did very well in a 10 gallon before I eventually sold them off. Im currently successfully doing otos in a 10 as well. That being said I'll agree bigger is always better if you can swing it.

I respectfully disagree wholeheartedly though with the statement that a 10 is too small for anything but killies.
 
Admittedly I've never personally kept habrosus, but I had quite a large group of pygmaeus that did very well in a 10 gallon before I eventually sold them off. Im currently successfully doing otos in a 10 as well. That being said I'll agree bigger is always better if you can swing it.

I respectfully disagree wholeheartedly though with the statement that a 10 is too small for anything but killies.
It isn't a statement it is my personal opinion.
 

Random Great Topic!

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