Should I switch to the Aquaclear30 hob

[BruinAquatics]

Hey guys, so I currently have a 10g thats pretty heavily stocked, thats running a Topfin Pf20 and A 10g sponge filter. It also has some houseplants such as pothos that has recently started to establish into the aquarium life, some Basil (hasn't established its roots), some Wandering Jew (hasn't established roots), Chinese Money plant (hasn't established roots), and an unknown house plant that is starting to root. Nitrates are pretty high (well before the plants) but aren't an issue. Anyways the topic isn't about if my aquarium is failing

So Im running in the Topfin Pf20 (rated for 20g aquariums). This thing used to be pretty darn good for a budget filter....until the cartridges were so stubborn and the filter always makes the water bypass the cartridge so i had to add a second cartridge on the side of it to ensure filteration. Honestly I hate doing that and dont think im getting enough. Its also so hard to customize this thing and create diy media and just doesn't provide the Right system to do so. The impeller is...well stupid we'll leave it at that

So I want to upgrade and Im really interested in the Aquaclear30. First off does anyone like this filter and think it would be good for a 10g. Also is there a way to control flow on the filter. Im pretty set on changing the HOB filter so i think this would be a good choice. Also im running the topfin pf-L cartridges and im wondering how id be able to transfer the bacteria into the Aquaclear30. Should i just stick the cartridge in and let it transfer. How long will it take to transfer. Also this tank is about 6months old so its pretty established.

 

[Marlene327]

I don't know anything about the Top Fin and the cartridge, but doubt it would fit into the AC. An AC30 would work quite well in a 10, and there is an adjustment to slow the flow. I have an AC20 in one of my 10s that isn't planted, but have silk plants in there to help break up the flow so my 3 guppies I put in to breed aren't constantly fighting current.

You said you have a sponge filter. That could be your best bet, leave it in the tank to keep your cycle, and with all new filter material, you'll have the bacteria already and it will develop in the HOB.

 

[Freshfishguy]

I have an aquaclear 110 and two 50s. I love aquaclears. They have one minor issue—when the power goes out or you unplug them, sometimes they need a little time to cool off before starting back up again. Other than that, I only have good things to say about them, and they have always started working again with plenty of time before any issues would arise. Another great option for a HOB that currently has people buzzing are the Seachem Tidal HOBs. Just something to look into. You’ll want to have a coarse sponge over the inlet of any HOB you have in order to prevent the type of overflow you are talking about (not sure if you already use one but thought I’d mention it). Here is also a really great resource on how to get the most out of any HOB filter that I found really helpful (the filter the guy uses in the video is an Aquaclear).

Because you have a sponge filter running too, simply taking down the Top Fin and replacing it with the Aquaclear might be fine in maintaining your cycle, and it even most likely would. However, I wouldn’t risk the possible mini cycle/crash. When you get the new filter, set it up on the tank and run it alongside your old Top Fin for a minimum of 2 weeks, but ideally 3-4 weeks to let it get seeded with beneficial bacteria. After that time, you can take down the Top Fin and just keep the new filter and sponge filter running.

 

[BruinAquatics]

I don't know anything about the Top Fin and the cartridge, but doubt it would fit into the AC. An AC30 would work quite well in a 10, and there is an adjustment to slow the flow. I have an AC20 in one of my 10s that isn't planted, but have silk plants in there to help break up the flow so my 3 guppies I put in to breed aren't constantly fighting current.

You said you have a sponge filter. That could be your best bet, leave it in the tank to keep your cycle, and with all new filter material, you'll have the bacteria already and it will develop in the HOB.

I have an aquaclear 110 and two 50s. I love aquaclears. They have one minor issue—when the power goes out or you unplug them, sometimes they need a little time to cool off before starting back up again. Other than that, I only have good things to say about them, and they have always started working again with plenty of time before any issues would arise. Another great option for a HOB that currently has people buzzing are the Seachem Tidal HOBs. Just something to look into. You’ll want to have a coarse sponge over the inlet of any HOB you have in order to prevent the type of overflow you are talking about (not sure if you already use one but thought I’d mention it). If you don’t have one, Amazon sells them and specifies which size fits which Aquaclears. Here is also a really great resource on how to get the most out of any HOB filter that I found really helpful (the filter the guy uses in the video is an Aquaclear).

Because you have a sponge filter running too, simply taking down the Top Fin and replacing it with the Aquaclear might be fine in maintaining your cycle, and it even most likely would. However, I wouldn’t risk the possible mini cycle/crash. When you get the new filter, set it up on the tank and run it alongside your old Top Fin for a minimum of 2 weeks, but ideally 3-4 weeks to let it get seeded with beneficial bacteria. After that time, you can take down the Top Fin and just keep the new filter and sponge filter running.

Ok sounds good thank you to you both. Yeah if I wasn't so paranoid about not loosing my cycle I would just leave the sponge filter going but I think I will run both of them along side each other. Also when you say alongside do you mean like literally next to each other or just simply in run the Aquaclear in the tank. Also I don't want the flow be too high so I'll probably run the two at half speed on different ends of the tank. My Topfin will be in the back right, sponge filter in the front left, and Aquaclear in the back left. Also should I go with the Aquaclear 30 or Aquaclear 20. Im leaning towards the 30 but let me know it's to much flow or something.

 

[Freshfishguy]

Ok sounds good thank you to you both. Yeah if I wasn't so paranoid about not loosing my cycle I would just leave the sponge filter going but I think I will run both of them along side each other. Also when you say alongside do you mean like literally next to each other or just simply in run the Aquaclear in the tank. Also I don't want the flow be too high so I'll probably run the two at half speed on different ends of the tank. My Topfin will be in the back right, sponge filter in the front left, and Aquaclear in the back left. Also should I go with the Aquaclear 30 or Aquaclear 20. Im leaning towards the 30 but let me know it's to much flow or something.

I would definitely suggesting going with the 30. You can never overfilter a tank, but you can always underfilter a tank. When I say alongside the Top Fin, I just mean have the sponge filter, Top Fin, and Aquaclear running on the tank simultaneously until the Aquaclear has seeded, and then you can take the top fin down. If it’s still too much flow after turning down the flow, you can cut a piece of a sponge filter pad and put it on the outflow of the Aquaclear like I have done. There are plenty of ways to reduce flow if it’s ever an issue.

 

[BruinAquatics]

Oh ok cool yeah I was hoping you would say the AC30. Oh yeah one more thing do you have a different type of media in your Aquaclear then the media that comes with the filter? I'm probably going to get it on Thursday so I'll keep this thread open if I have any questions and I'll let you know how it goes! Thank you so much!

 

[JayAlva]

I'm running 2 aquaclears on my discus tank. A fluval 207 canister on my bow front. And 2 oase internal filters on a 20 long and 10g. Aquaclear might not be the fanciest but it's my favorite. The oase internal filters coming in 2nd. The simplicity of the aquaclear line is what always keeps me from changing them.

 

[BruinAquatics]

I'm running 2 aquaclears on my discus tank. A fluval 207 canister on my bow front. And 2 oase internal filters on a 20 long and 10g. Aquaclear might not be the fanciest but it's my favorite. The oase internal filters coming in 2nd. The simplicity of the aquaclear line is what always keeps me from changing them.

Ok sounds good, yeah I'm pretty sold on the AquaClear 30 I think it's gonna be a real nice upgrade from the Topfin Pf20

 

[ForceTen]

I have an aquaclear 110 and two 50s. I love aquaclears. They have one minor issue—when the power goes out or you unplug them, sometimes they need a little time to cool off before starting back up again.

AC filters do not need to cool off. If the filter does not attempt to pull water up the intake tube there is another issue. It should always spin the impeller the second you apply power.
No matter if it has been running for a year or an hour. The tank water cools the motor, stator and rotor as it runs.
I would suggest you look good down into the motor and make sure its clean in there and also clean the SS shaft. This sounds to me like an obstruction in the motor, between the rotor and stator. Maybe dirty?
All motors designed to run on the standard 120 volt system are included. A hot motor is a dead motor.

 

[BruinAquatics]

I heard that it starts up again almost right away if you unplug it and the water level does not change at all.

 

[Freshfishguy]

AC filters do not need to cool off. If the filter does not attempt to pull water up the intake tube there is another issue. It should always spin the impeller the second you apply power.
No matter if it has been running for a year or an hour. The tank water cools the motor, stator and rotor as it runs.
I would suggest you look good down into the motor and make sure its clean in there and also clean the SS shaft. This sounds to me like an obstruction in the motor, between the rotor and stator. Maybe dirty?
All motors designed to run on the standard 120 volt system are included. A hot motor is a dead motor.

I keep my filters very clean, including the intake tube and motor/impeller. Others have reported this issue as well. However, I’ve heard that one way to correct Aquaclears not starting up again is to simply give the impeller a nudge while plugged in.

Aquaclear 30 won't turn on again.... | Aquarium Filter Forum | 55491

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Aquaclear 50 Problem After Water Change. | Freshwater Aquarium Discussion Forum | 367966

 

[ForceTen]

I heard that it starts up again almost right away if you unplug it and the water level does not change at all.

Thats is correct. Power outages or any kind of power disruption is not an issue unless the water level in the tank is insufficient.
So, if you keep your tank full, your AC filter should start right up.

I keep my filters very clean, including the intake tube and motor/impeller. Others have reported this issue as well. However, I’ve heard that one way to correct Aquaclears not starting up again is to simply give the impeller a nudge while plugged in.

Aquaclear 30 won't turn on again.... | Aquarium Filter Forum | 55491

Aquaclear 50 won't restart | Aquarium Filter Forum | 242719

Aquaclear 50 Problem After Water Change. | Freshwater Aquarium Discussion Forum | 367966

Having to nudge an impeller to get it to start is not normal even if it results in starting the motor. This indicates a couple things that come to mind.
1) The impeller is touching the gray cap that it sits under or there is an obstruction between the motor stator and rotor.
2) The SS shaft is bent or not fully seated into the bottom of the motor allowing the impeller to sit to high.

The design of the AC filter is very simple. Having to nudge or do anything other than plugging it in, indicates there is an issue.
While nudging may help start the impeller to spin, it is not addressing the issue.
The very first place I look is at the shaft. The shinny, tiny, stainless steel rod that the rotor and impeller spin around. I have had to push this shaft into the motor on a couple occasions for this particular situation. Pulling the rotor and impeller up and away from the motor can cause the shaft to come up a bit over time. This causes the impeller to sit high and strike the grey cap that is over it.

Note: AC has addressed this. When removing the impeller, have you noticed the impeller is not locked onto the rotor? That you can rotate it 1/4 turn?
This is done by the manufacturer for a reason.
Rather than bore this forum with facts, I will leave it here. Should you want to know, send me a PM.
Thanks John