Saltwater Tank Questions !!!

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Isabella

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I am completely inexperienced with, and know nothing of, saltwater tanks. All I know is the fact that they're beautiful. I have a couple of questions about saltwater tanks. I often hear that they are far more difficult (and far more expensive) to maintain than freshwater tanks. Can someone explain to me the main differences between a saltwater and a freshwater tank? Are there any similarities between the two as well? All I know is that, obviously, saltwater tanks have to have salt in them. But how much? Why are saltwater tanks so difficult and so expensive to maintain? Do saltwater tanks need heaters as freshwater tanks do?

I recently went to a large fish store with saltwater tanks. Needless to mention, I was fascinated by what I saw. The beauty of a saltwater tank is indescribable. I was so amazed and surprised to find out that there are actually live corals in a saltwater tank - they look so cool! (I always thought they were fake on pictures.) How do you get corals to grow in your tank? Do you buy them just like fish, or what? They're so strange because they're animals and yet they're not like animals because they grow over surfaces. Don't fish in a saltwater tank pick on the corals thereby destroying them?

Lastly, is it difficult to set up a saltwater tank? How do you create such beautiful display? How do you put (or grow) corals in there? What are the other essential components of a saltwater tank? That is, what things/creatures besides corals go in a saltwater tank?

Whoever can answer my questions, or at least some of them, THANKS A LOT!
 

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Well, the main difference is that saltwater fish are nowhere near as hardy - the ocean is so vast that there is extremely small change if any to the various aspects - salinity, temp, etc. They are much less used to any change. They are also more expensive because they are harder/more expensive to breed.
 

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Thanks Marc. Then I can only imagine how hard it must be to maintain the perfect water quality that saltwater fish need. And they also probably need very specific salinity levels?
 
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Does anyone know how people get corals to grow in their tanks? Do you buy them just like fish, or what? They're so strange because they're animals and yet they're not like animals because they grow over surfaces. Don't fish in a saltwater tank pick on the corals, thereby destroying them?
 
If you do the research before you introduce anything into your tank, I think you'll find it not that difficult.  Just takes time, money and patience.

There are many variables involved, but the main things you need for successful coral growth is very high lighting levels, high water movement (powerheads), excellent water parameters and occasionally you'll have to replace trace elements that have been used up or removed via the protein skimmer.  The excellent water parameters comes from frequent testing, frequent water changes, copious amounts of live rock, low nutrient load (few or no fish), etc.

Some fish species do indeed pick at various corals and invertebrates, which is why you need to reseach all inhabitants before introduction.  These fish are usually deemed "not reef safe".

To me, a nicely set-up reef tank is the ultimate accomplishment in this hobby.  You need a lot of funds to get one setup and running. The equipment - lighting, skimmer, live rock etc. can get ridiculously expensive.  The corals, fish and inverts cost some serious jack too.
 
Also, you do buy them just like fish, that is if you're lucky enough to have a fish store that carries live corals. You may have to look online and have them overnighted to you.
 

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Thank you Mike. I am not planning to get a saltwater tank (or at least not anytime soon) - I am just curious about it. The reason I posted this message is precisely because I have recently been to a saltwater store, quite near me, and was amazed by what I saw. This experience prompted me to ask various questions. They DID have live corals! And many of them. Which is also why I asked about corals. Then I suppose I would be very lucky if I wanted to set up a saltwater tank? If I ever want to set up a saltwater tank, I definitely will do my research and set aside all the necessary funds that a proper setup will require. I wouldn't start such an undertaking without being prepared. And yes, I agree - it has to be the ultimate accomplishment for a serious fish hobbyist.
 
Isabella, you could easily set up a saltwater tank because I know you do your homework beforehand.

You're definitely lucky if you have a good saltwater shop near you. You can usually save money on shipping costs but sometimes local shop prices are higher than online. But then again, buying locally, you don't have to worry about the livestock perishing during shipment.
 
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Thanks again. I actually prefer buying locally when it comes to fish or plants, or live corals for that matter - even if they're more expensive. I wouldn't want to take the risk of them dying during a delivery trip. Besides, I like to see directly what I am buying. I wouldn't like the hassle of sending a product back - especially if it's a live one - in case I wouldn't like it.
 
I have a problem. I plan on going on vacation for a few days and my Mom will be feeding the fish. Problem is they are hand fed and my Mom won't put her hands in the water to feed the 2 eels and lionfish. Is there a way to feed them using tweezers and if so, what would the cost be for a saltwater tank?
Thanks, blyon
 

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so,
I found a 75 gallon saltwater tank, with a stand, canopy and sump for $150. he's also has a swimmer etc. on Craigslist
but if someone gets it before me I'm thinking of starting my own.

I was thinking,
can I use a tank in the 20-40g range, and a 10 gallon as a sump? Can a smaller tank like that be drilled? Or would I have to use an overflow box thing?
also, where can I get RODI water?
what kind of sand should I use?
I don't intend on having corals and all anytime soon because I barely know to start with marine tanks yet. But would a finnex marine 24/7 be a good light if I ever do? I have the planted+ 24/7 on one of my tanks and love it.
 
If you can get the 75 gallon, jump on it. That's a pretty great price on a pre-drilled tank with a canopy and stand.

But, you could certainly use a tank in the 20-40 range, and I suppose you could also use a sump if you wished. I personally wouldn't, since I think it's just an added layer of complexity while you're learning, and marine tanks are perfectly capable of running without one. But, most smaller tanks can be drilled (as long as they're the correct type of glass).

You might be able to purchase RODI water from your LFS, but it'd cost a fortune. It's about $1 per gallon at most places, but when you add up all of your water change and top off costs... that's gonna build up real quick. Plus, you never know the state of the RODI unit, since the LFS could be using a three year old filter. I'd invest in your own RODI unit, or maybe even just an RO unit. It's a big upfront cost, but will save you big in the long run.

For sand, you're gonna want to use either aragonite or crushed coral. Normal freshwater sands usually contain silica, which is a pretty bad algae magnet. You could also go barebottom, for the ease of maintenance. But, the look isn't for everyone.

Most fish-only tanks soon become reefs, just due to the immense draw with corals. They're some of the most interesting creatures on the planet, IMO. A Marine 24/7 would be an alright light to start off with, for sure. It'd allow you to keep most soft corals and LPS. SPS would be a bit of a stretch, and would probably brown out under the weaker light. But, it's a good start. Someone with more knowledge with large tank lighting can step in and correct me and/or suggest better lights!
 
I agree with Lorekeeper on this. Get the 75 if you can, but if you go with a 20-40 gallon tank, skip the sump. Just me but a 10 gallon sump isn't worth the effort simply because it will be super cramped with equipment and a pain to work on/clean. A 20 gallon Long is about as small as I would recommend for a sump and realistically a standard 29 gallon tank is about as small as I would personally want (and what I currently run on my 90 gallon). Drilling a tank is not something for the inexperienced IMHO and you would need to be 100% sure you don't have tempered glass where you plan on drilling (or you will have a shattered glass mess that used to be your tank). You can use an overflow box, but a pre-drilled tank is definitely best as you won't have a siphon system to deal with. RODI is definitely best and you can find a 4 stage system as cheap as $60 shipped, but be aware it will produce more waste water than a $150-$200 unit. It produces 6-7 gallons of wastewater for every gallon of RODI and the nicer models produce about 3-4 gallons of wastewater to 1 gallon of RODI. You can buy it from your LFS, but as mentioned above it depends on the cost and how well they maintain their RODI system. My LFS does RODI for free and RODI/Salt pre-mix for 75 cents a gallon and maintains their system pretty well, but not everyone is so lucky. As for lighting? Just me, but I wouldn't touch a Finnex for anything but a FOWLR system. If you are going to do corals then do it right. A chinese black box would be a decent choice but they have zero customization out of the box and warranty support can be hit or miss. Still, many have good luck with them. If you really want a solid unit then Kessil and AI make great lights for the money (but plan on spending anywhere between $400-$700 plus the cost of mounts for them to get a pair of them for a 75 gallon tank).
 
thanks guys!
if I can get the 75 gallon next week, if I upload pictures can you guys help me put it all together?
 
so the guy I'm gonna get the tank from, said he'll give me the tank, sump, stand, canopy, skimmer, two wavemakers, two pumps, 3 heaters for $200. Is there anything else I'll need? Obviously the sand and live rock. But anything else I'll need to get it at least running?
I'm gonna get a finnex marine light just for now. I don't have the money right now for $400 lights lol.
 
it'll be the end of next week until I can actually go get it
 
Sounds as if you'll have everything you need, other than a bucket of salt and maybe some basic tools to get everything plumbed back together.
 
so the guy I'm gonna get the tank from, said he'll give me the tank, sump, stand, canopy, skimmer, two wavemakers, two pumps, 3 heaters for $200. Is there anything else I'll need? Obviously the sand and live rock. But anything else I'll need to get it at least running?
I'm gonna get a finnex marine light just for now. I don't have the money right now for $400 lights lol.
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Nothing wrong with the Finnex if you start out with a FOWLR setup, you can always do that for a bit and then add a nicer light and corals later. Oh and just a note, but definitely buy a new tank heater. Used tank heaters are way too much of a gamble and you save very little money in the process. A new one that is suitable for marine environments runs about $30-$35 for that size of a tank.

As for what else you will need?

A Refractometer (to measure salinity levels)
RODI system or Water
Buckets and a Drain Hose
A Digital Thermometer
A Quality Marine Waster Test kit (ie Red Sea, Salifert, ELOS, Hannah)

Oh and you will need to clean and sanitize everything first. Distilled White Vinegar and Tapwater running through all the used equipment running for a few days will definitely flush things out for you with no harmful residuals for the tank (as long as you properly clean it out and let dry for 24 hours afterwards). Also be sure you check the tank for leaks and scratches. You don't want to make the mistake that I did with my used 90 gallon:

 

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oh wow! Thank you! I'll go look for that stuff. I'll be sure to do everything you listed
 
So I have been keeping freshwater fish tanks for 4 years but this past year I really got into it so i'd just count one year. Anyways, I fell inlove with my teachers 20 gallon long salt water fish tank that had a clownfish. It is something i'd like to replicate sometime in the future. But since I know nothing about saltwater fish tanks I thought i'd ask people who do. How much would it cost? (That being one of my top questions) What would I need? How do you cycle a saltwater fish tank? And basically the whole 9 yards.
 
Can’t really give a cost analysis without know exactly what type of fish and tank you’re going for. For example a fish only tank would be your cheapest option, then there is FOWLR (Fish Only With Live Rock) and then full on reef tank with coral (most expensive).

Equipment and cost is dependent on the type of tank, size of tank and livestock you want to keep. The cycle process is the same as freshwater. Nart made a great guide to beginner saltwater tanks on the forum which has a ton of information. It should be pinned somewhere in the salt section.

Give us all a better idea of exactly what you’re looking to setup and we can certainly steer you in the right direction in terms of tank size, equipment and livestock.
 
Can’t really give a cost analysis without know exactly what type of fish and tank you’re going for. For example a fish only tank would be your cheapest option, then there is FOWLR (Fish Only With Live Rock) and then full on reef tank with coral (most expensive).

Equipment and cost is dependent on the type of tank, size of tank and livestock you want to keep. The cycle process is the same as freshwater. Nart made a great guide to beginner saltwater tanks on the forum which has a ton of information. It should be pinned somewhere in the salt section.

Give us all a better idea of exactly what you’re looking to setup and we can certainly steer you in the right direction in terms of tank size, equipment and livestock.
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I said 20 gallon long salt tank with a clownfish.
 
Is that all? Do you want live rock or any other tank inhabitants? Are you planning Fish Only or FOWLR? These options require less equipment than a full on reef tank and genera help keep the initial cost down. No fancy lighting is necessary and a tank that size I wouldn’t recommend a sump. A quality HoB like an AC70 and a small skimmer would be sufficient.

Do yo I have a tank and everything ready or is this a build from scratch?
 
Is that all? Do you want live rock or any other tank inhabitants? Are you planning Fish Only or FOWLR? These options require less equipment than a full on reef tank and genera help keep the initial cost down. No fancy lighting is necessary and a tank that size I wouldn’t recommend a sump. A quality HoB like an AC70 and a small skimmer would be sufficient.

Do yo I have a tank and everything ready or is this a build from scratch?
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Yeah FOWLR, also live sand and live rock.
 
Ok, there's ways to keep the cost of rock down. Such as starting with dry base rock and letting it overtime become the pretty live rock you see in most systems. That process usually takes 3-4 months to be covered in coraline algae the nice pinks, purples, reds and greens you see. Or you can do a mixture of dry base rock and live rock to help it along. in a 20 gallon tank 20-40lbs of rock would be plenty (1-1.5lbs) per gallon is the general rule and will be the majority of your biological filtration. You could do a pair of clownfish depending on which type of clownfish you like. Most of us typically keep Ocellaris (nemo) clownfish for which you could do a pair of.
 
So, for a 20 long FOWLR tank, my guess is an initial start-up cost of around $400-500, including the tank, basic equipment, salt, sand, rock, and a pair of clowns with some snails.

Here's a list of stuff you'd need to start:
Tank (duh!)
Heater (DUH!)
HOB (I'd use an AC 70 on a 20L, and just use carbon and/or Purigen as media)
Powerhead(s) (I'd use either: 2 Koralia 240's on opposite sides of the tank, or 1 Koralia 425)
10-20 lbs of sand (aragonite or crushed coral, avoid freshwater sands)
10-20 lbs of rock (I'd recommend 5-10 lbs of live rock with 10 lbs of dry rock)
Bucket of salt (instant ocean is my recommendation)
RODI water (tap usually causes bad hair algae)
Test kit (This is a must. API works, but is a bit innacurate. I love Red Sea, and also use Salifert)
Refractometer (again, a must)

Cycling a saltwater tank isn't that much different than a freshwater tank. In freshwater, you add ammonia to a tank and wait for BB to colonize on your filter media. In saltwater, you'll usually add an ammonia source (pure ammonia is what I recommend) and wait for BB to grow on your rock. In saltwater, your live rock is your filter media. It's where the majority of your BB will live.

Live rock is usually just pourous rock collected from the ocean that have all kinds of critters living on/in it, good and bad. They can have pods and coralline algae (mostly good), or pest anemones and fire worms (very bad). For that reason, I'd find a GOOD source of live rock locally (any good saltwater store will have it), buy 5-10 lbs, and then buy 10 lbs of dry live rock. Dry live rock is simply live rock that's been allowed to dry, so you get the rock for bacteria to grow on, but none of the critters. You're missing out on good stuff, but avoiding pests. I'd still want some live rock in my system, for the good stuff. Eventually, the dry rock will become live, with or without live rock in the tank.

Live sand is kind of a joke, IMO. I'd either get some dry Aragonite or some crushed coral. Or, get some live Aragonite and give it a try. Can't hurt in a cycling tank.

Saltwater tanks need a lot of flow. Way more than most freshwater tanks. For that reason, you'll want a powerhead or two. The two I recommended are generally well recommended, and would do the job cheaply and reliably. I also recommend running a HOB so that you have somewhere to keep carbon. Filter sponges are nitrate traps, so I wouldn't recommend running one.

Since you're going FOWLR, the regular Instant Ocean salt will be fine. I'd buy it in the bucket, since it's cheaper per gallon, and you'll use salt way quicker than you think.

RODI is a must. My tap water is very good, and even I've switched over to it. You'll have terrible algae issues with tap, I promise. I'd buy a unit, but if that's too pricey, you can buy either RODI or Great Value distilled for 89 cents a gallon, and it works well.

Test kits aren't something you can skimp on. API would be alright for a FOWLR, but I'd still wholeheartedly recommend Red Sea and Salifert. Much more accurate and easier to read.

Refractometers are, again, a must. Hydrometers are extraordinarily innacurate, and are just like $10 less than an Ebay refractometer. Get one off Ebay, and save yourself the trouble of a hydrometer.

The cycle will take between 2-8 weeks to complete (just like a freshwater tank), and if you're a bit impatient, Dr. Tim's one and only is your best bet for a bacterial supplement in saltwater. However, the tank will progress fine without it. Cycle it just as you would a freshwater tank. No fish, no inverts, no coral. Lights out to avoid algae. This is a very boring part of a tank's life, but is very important.

After the tank cycles, you can begin to (slowly) stock. I'd recommend getting a pair of false percula clownfish, if you're wanting "Nemo". They're cheap, hardy, and very unique in their personalities. They're a great first saltwater fish.

I'd also pick up some nerite snails, cerith snails, nassarius, and possibly a few hermit crabs for a clean-up crew.

If I missed anything, feel free to ask questions!
 
So, for a 20 long FOWLR tank, my guess is an initial start-up cost of around $400-500, including the tank, basic equipment, salt, sand, rock, and a pair of clowns with some snails.

Here's a list of stuff you'd need to start:
Tank (duh!)
Heater (DUH!)
HOB (I'd use an AC 70 on a 20L, and just use carbon and/or Purigen as media)
Powerhead(s) (I'd use either: 2 Koralia 240's on opposite sides of the tank, or 1 Koralia 425)
10-20 lbs of sand (aragonite or crushed coral, avoid freshwater sands)
10-20 lbs of rock (I'd recommend 5-10 lbs of live rock with 10 lbs of dry rock)
Bucket of salt (instant ocean is my recommendation)
RODI water (tap usually causes bad hair algae)
Test kit (This is a must. API works, but is a bit innacurate. I love Red Sea, and also use Salifert)
Refractometer (again, a must)

Cycling a saltwater tank isn't that much different than a freshwater tank. In freshwater, you add ammonia to a tank and wait for BB to colonize on your filter media. In saltwater, you'll usually add an ammonia source (pure ammonia is what I recommend) and wait for BB to grow on your rock. In saltwater, your live rock is your filter media. It's where the majority of your BB will live.

Live rock is usually just pourous rock collected from the ocean that have all kinds of critters living on/in it, good and bad. They can have pods and coralline algae (mostly good), or pest anemones and fire worms (very bad). For that reason, I'd find a GOOD source of live rock locally (any good saltwater store will have it), buy 5-10 lbs, and then buy 10 lbs of dry live rock. Dry live rock is simply live rock that's been allowed to dry, so you get the rock for bacteria to grow on, but none of the critters. You're missing out on good stuff, but avoiding pests. I'd still want some live rock in my system, for the good stuff. Eventually, the dry rock will become live, with or without live rock in the tank.

Live sand is kind of a joke, IMO. I'd either get some dry Aragonite or some crushed coral. Or, get some live Aragonite and give it a try. Can't hurt in a cycling tank.

Saltwater tanks need a lot of flow. Way more than most freshwater tanks. For that reason, you'll want a powerhead or two. The two I recommended are generally well recommended, and would do the job cheaply and reliably. I also recommend running a HOB so that you have somewhere to keep carbon. Filter sponges are nitrate traps, so I wouldn't recommend running one.

Since you're going FOWLR, the regular Instant Ocean salt will be fine. I'd buy it in the bucket, since it's cheaper per gallon, and you'll use salt way quicker than you think.

RODI is a must. My tap water is very good, and even I've switched over to it. You'll have terrible algae issues with tap, I promise. I'd buy a unit, but if that's too pricey, you can buy either RODI or Great Value distilled for 89 cents a gallon, and it works well.

Test kits aren't something you can skimp on. API would be alright for a FOWLR, but I'd still wholeheartedly recommend Red Sea and Salifert. Much more accurate and easier to read.

Refractometers are, again, a must. Hydrometers are extraordinarily innacurate, and are just like $10 less than an Ebay refractometer. Get one off Ebay, and save yourself the trouble of a hydrometer.

The cycle will take between 2-8 weeks to complete (just like a freshwater tank), and if you're a bit impatient, Dr. Tim's one and only is your best bet for a bacterial supplement in saltwater. However, the tank will progress fine without it. Cycle it just as you would a freshwater tank. No fish, no inverts, no coral. Lights out to avoid algae. This is a very boring part of a tank's life, but is very important.

After the tank cycles, you can begin to (slowly) stock. I'd recommend getting a pair of false percula clownfish, if you're wanting "Nemo". They're cheap, hardy, and very unique in their personalities. They're a great first saltwater fish.

I'd also pick up some nerite snails, cerith snails, nassarius, and possibly a few hermit crabs for a clean-up crew.

If I missed anything, feel free to ask questions!
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Certainly not getting a tank like this for a while. My wallet is crying. Would bigger tanks cost less or more?
 

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More, bigger the tank more sand, rock, equipment. If you know you can't swing it, our best advice to you would be to wait, research and plan out the tank you want. When the money comes then begin to put it all together. The biggest reason people leave the salty side is they rush it and then fail. Salt takes research, time and patience. Given the price tag on everything you don't want to rush.

But use this forum as a means to pick our brains and plan for that tank so when the time comes you're ready to go.
 
The bigger the tank, the more the cost, but only to a point.

For example, you could probably set up a 10 gallon for around $250-300 or so. But, again, still not cheap. Agreed with above. If you can't afford it, save a bit, research saltwater tanks, and you'll eventually be able to afford a tank.
 
Thanks for all the information. Saltwater won't be an adventure for me for a long time. But it will be something I will accomplish eventually.
 
I said 20 gallon long salt tank with a clownfish.
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This video will tell you how to setup a 20 Gallon Long FOWLR to be ready for fish for $362-$415. Keep in mind that figure includes accessory costs (ie Marine Care Test Kit, Buckets, Jugs for Saltwater, Refractometer):

 
So I am toying with the idea of starting a saltwater tank I have a spare 10 gallon and a 20 long, which one should I use? I would also like if someone could list all the equipment I would need. I would also like to keep this tank on the lower cost side.
 
Are you going to do fish only, fowlr, or reef tank?
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Probably a FO since I am new to saltwater and want to keep it simple as possible.
 
From other people’s opinions, the 20 is better to start with because perameters swings will be gentler. The equipment you’ll need
1. Thermometer
2. Refractometer
3. Saltwater
4. Sand
5. Maybe live rock for ascetics
6. Possible chaeto for nutrient removal
7. Light (doesn’t matter what type if you aren’t doing coral)
8. Filter/power heads
9. Saltwater (either form the LFS or mixed from you)
That’s all I can think of ATM....
Ps. Congrats on going salty!
 
Probably a FO since I am new to saltwater and want to keep it simple as possible.
Click to expand...
Filter
Substrate
Powerhead
Light (doesn’t matter much because fish only)
Thermometer
Ro/dI system and marine salt + bucket for mixing water or buy premixed saltwater
Refractometer
Auto top off system (optional)

If you want live rock do a fowlr tank. Mostly the same thing except filtration and a few other things
 
Filter
Substrate
Powerhead
Light (doesn’t matter much because fish only)
Thermometer
Ro/dI system and marine salt + bucket for mixing water or buy premixed saltwater
Refractometer
Auto top off system (optional)

If you want live rock do a fowlr tank. Mostly the same thing except filtration and a few other things
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Do I absolutely need a Ro/dI system or could I use tap water because they are a little spendy.
 

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Do I absolutely need a Ro/dI system or could I use tap water because they are a little spendy.
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Tap water usually contains phosphate, nitrates, silicates and other things so it’s not recommended. Does your lfs sell ro water or saltwater?
 
Tap water usually contains phosphate, nitrates, silicates and other things so it’s not recommended. Does your lfs sell ro water or saltwater?
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I do not have a lfs but a LPs and they do not sell ro water or saltwater.
 
I also live in Alaska which is known for good water if that would change anything.
 
Do you happen to know your water supply's tds? An rodI would be a handy gadget it really shines in reef set ups that absoultely need it.in a few words I say use ro water saves headaches and tanks from becoming hair algae farms or cyano barns.
 
Do I absolutely need a Ro/dI system or could I use tap water because they are a little spendy.
Click to expand...

Not as spendy as one might think. A 4 stage RODI system runs $60 shipped from Amazon (although being in Alaska you might have to pay extra for shipping). It's a pretty small investment considering the overall cost of a saltwater tank and takes the guesswork out of what is in your tap.
 
Not as spendy as one might think. A 4 stage RODI system runs $60 shipped from Amazon (although being in Alaska you might have to pay extra for shipping). It's a pretty small investment considering the overall cost of a saltwater tank and takes the guesswork out of what is in your tap.
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Cool I guess they are not that spendy, fifty bucks isn't that bad. Shipping does not cost more it just takes a week or so to come.
 
Cool I guess they are not that spendy, fifty bucks isn't that bad. Shipping does not cost more it just takes a week or so to come.
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They will produce more waste water and the cartridge/resin replacements tend to be more spendy than the more expensive systems, but with a smaller tank it won't be as big of an issue. The other advantage of this system is that they are portable and have an easy hookup. Glad to hear that you don't have to pay extra for shipping, many sites used to exclude Alaska and HawaiI from free shipping, but I guess Amazon has gotten on board with free shipping to all 50 states. The $50 one is just a plain RO system and the $60 one is an RO/DI system. The final De-Ionization phase is what brings your TDS down to 0 (which is the goal to have a 0 TDS water source). What I might recommend is for you to check your TDS of your tap water with a TDS Meter (about $15-$20 from Amazon) and if it's below 50 you might be able to do well with just a regular RO system.
 
They will produce more waste water and the cartridge/resin replacements tend to be more spendy than the more expensive systems, but with a smaller tank it won't be as big of an issue. The other advantage of this system is that they are portable and have an easy hookup. Glad to hear that you don't have to pay extra for shipping, many sites used to exclude Alaska and HawaiI from free shipping, but I guess Amazon has gotten on board with free shipping to all 50 states. The $50 one is just a plain RO system and the $60 one is an RO/DI system. The final De-Ionization phase is what brings your TDS down to 0 (which is the goal to have a 0 TDS water source). What I might recommend is for you to check your TDS of your tap water with a TDS Meter (about $15-$20 from Amazon) and if it's below 50 you might be able to do well with just a regular RO system.
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Yeah they do exclude some things from shipping up here like the API test kit or anything live like plants, but they ship tires for free, I found that kind of cool.
 
I would definitely upgrade from that API test kit in the future. Red Sea or Salifert are better bets for the money. I compared API and Red Sea side by side and here were my complaints:

1) API sometimes gives false positives for Ammonia
2) Nitrate Test kit is virtually worthless (can't tell the difference between 10-20 and 40-80) and that is crucial particularly if you want to maintain corals or keep your tank from becoming an algae farm
3) Long narrow vials with cheap leaky plastic caps (the other two kits come with shorter wider vials that are easier to clean out properly and won't leak as they have screw top lids). The API kits simply have plastic caps that pop on and often leak with chemicals that are not good leaking all over you.
4) No measurement syringe for test sample (a cheap easy fix, but still annoying)
 

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