Review of Nitrate Reducers

That makes sense. Then that kind of does not make sense.

I'm thinking about Co2 systems, and when in use can raise the nitrate. So can some ferts. So if the increase for nitrate is part of the fert system, wouldn't you need nitrate in tanks for plants? Especially if your adding more of them?

Don't shoot me! lol

CO2 tanks flirt with the very edge of disaster. Using the Estimative Index, weekly schedules of your ferts should get you ideal. Introduce nitrates, as this bit pertains to the subject, in the beginning, [weekly] water change takes the excess out and the process starts again.

I'm still in the process of learning the basic botany of the home aquaria, but I think that the plants uptake the nitrogen compounds to use them to grow by breaking them down into nitrogen. Even if the last of the true nitrogen cycle bacteria consumes the nitrates into nitrogen, the diffused gas would still be used by the plants, just as terrestrial plants take from the atmosphere. Both ammon(ia/ium) and nitrates are used as a nitrogen source for chlorophyll in photosynthesis, while ammonia and water provides hydrogen for sugars and protein. CO2 is essentially carbon required for the acids, proteins, and sugars.

 

Nice research Grimund
You already know way more about it then most of us.

Dragones550918 - I do dose flourish once or twice a week, perhaps that's enough.....all I know if my plants don't look at all like they're suffering and I have new growth.

 

Nice research Grimund
You already know way more about it then most of us.

Dragones550918 - I do dose flourish once or twice a week, perhaps that's enough.....all I know if my plants don't look at all like they're suffering and I have new growth.

Hence why I suffer from information overload

Flourish, is essentially, micro nutrients. They are the trace minerals that plants need, just like our fish need theirs. The big three, Nitrogen, Phosphorous, and Potassium are missing. Luckily, fish waste produces nitrogen and phosphorous, but lacks potassium.

Maybe adding a bit of potassium would help your plants out. If your dosing liquids, API Leaf Zone would suffice, based on my current research that is.

 

lol Well Grimund, you talked way over my head, but I got the gist.

CindiL, I have been using flourish as well twice a week, and Excell once to twice a week. Only plant that still is not doing good is my bocopa. Has not done well since I got them. Just got worries with my nitrate heading to 0, that the plants will start to suffer.

 

Interesting. My bacopa is doing great as well as my others but I do add in Replenish and fresh trace as well since I use RO on this tank. I think they like the extra calcium maybe.

 

Yeah, but my bocopa has been doing leaf melt from day one, but the rest us growing like weeds. Even as my nitrate heads to 0, even my java moss is growing. The hornwart is out if control and has been trimmed back twice. Everything is a luscious green, except the bocopa. And I have been using the matrix since day one. Connection?

 

I don't think so because here is my bacooa and I use it too. What lighting do you have?

 

Lighting is also a big deal. Are you heavily/moderate/lightly stocked?

 

This is off topic here, but I'm going to answer. I'm running 3 over the tank CFL 6500k 13w lights that are about 28 inches above the substrate. Here is pictures.







I'm lightly planted with 3 moss balls, java fern, java moss, anubias, hornwart, and 3 pothos cuttings...I've tried what my fish guy said and even separated them and moved them around to different points of light. No good. Still melting leaves off the bottom while the tops grow...and now leaf melt is showing up higher up.

 

CO2 tanks flirt with the very edge of disaster. Using the Estimative Index, weekly schedules of your ferts should get you ideal. Introduce nitrates, as this bit pertains to the subject, in the beginning, [weekly] water change takes the excess out and the process starts again.

I'm still in the process of learning the basic botany of the home aquaria, but I think that the plants uptake the nitrogen compounds to use them to grow by breaking them down into nitrogen. Even if the last of the true nitrogen cycle bacteria consumes the nitrates into nitrogen, the diffused gas would still be used by the plants, just as terrestrial plants take from the atmosphere. Both ammon(ia/ium) and nitrates are used as a nitrogen source for chlorophyll in photosynthesis, while ammonia and water provides hydrogen for sugars and protein. CO2 is essentially carbon required for the acids, proteins, and sugars.

Yes, but unlike land plants they only use nitrate as a last resort and aren't as efficient at the uptake and do not get as much nourishment from it. I'm not sure about the nitrogen gas component...

Also my denitrate factory is keeping my nitrate at 5 ppm for over a week. along with plants of course!

 

Yes, but unlike land plants they only use nitrate as a last resort and aren't as efficient at the uptake and do not get as much nourishment from it. I'm not sure about the nitrogen gas component...

Also my denitrate factory is keeping my nitrate at 5 ppm for over a week. along with plants of course!

I never said that they were efficient, just that they do use them. Terrestrial plants take up nitrates, but most of their nitrogen comes from atmospheric consumption anyway.

 

Yeah, I didn't know that... cool

 

Truth be told, I'm not finding any real differences between aquatic and terrestrial, except the nutrient uptake process (leaves vs roots).

I'm also amidst learning why ammonia is toxic at certain levels in varying pH.

 

Keep searching. You'll find that aquatic plants take up ammonium or ammonia first. If all they have is nitrates they actually have to convert it back to ammonium in order to be able to uptake it. I'll see if I can find my information on that.

 

Well... There are studies that show that aquatic plants take up ammonium before they will nitrate and that is the main way that they reduce nitrates. https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/0304377086900938

 

Keep searching. You'll find that aquatic plants take up ammonium or ammonia first. If all they have is nitrates they actually have to convert it back to ammonium in order to be able to uptake it. I'll see if I can find my information on that.

Both terrestrial and aquatic, use the most readily available source of Nitrogen. Usually, it's ammonium in the aquaria setting. All plants uptake ammonium (NH4+) and nitrates (NO3), just that terrestrial, post establishment, has access to gaseous N2.

It's not the plant that is different, just the medium and availability in which it gets the resources that dictate the consumption. Nitrogen -> Ammonium > Nitrates

 

Both terrestrial and aquatic, use the most readily available source of Nitrogen. Usually, it's ammonium in the aquaria setting. All plants uptake ammonium (NH4+) and nitrates (NO3), just that terrestrial, post establishment, has access to gaseous N2.

It's not the plant that is different, just the medium and availability in which it gets the resources that dictate the consumption. Nitrogen -> Ammonium > Nitrates

The paper shows it depends upon the type of aquatic plant. Typically, it would suggest that most plants we use, use ammonium.

 

Thanks so much for the informative thread. A couple of questions:

Does anyone know if the salt recharge of Nitra-zorb would be harmful for a tank with corys (salt sensitive IIRC)?

And along the same lines, is instant ocean's natural nitrate reducing product also a risk for salt sensitive cory's? I have extraordinarily soft city water and like the concept of increasing the buffering capacity.

Thanks!

 

The paper shows it depends upon the type of aquatic plant. Typically, it would suggest that most plants we use, use ammonium.

There are always exceptions to ruleswith genetics and evolution, there's bound to be them. Like I said, still early in my research and I haven't had much time to sit down and sift through more gritty stuff

 

Thanks so much for the informative thread. A couple of questions:

Does anyone know if the salt recharge of Nitra-zorb would be harmful for a tank with corys (salt sensitive IIRC)?

And along the same lines, is instant ocean's natural nitrate reducing product also a risk for salt sensitive cory's? I have extraordinarily soft city water and like the concept of increasing the buffering capacity.

Thanks!

The NitraZorb should be safe. You rinse it off before each use, getting the salt off.

As far as the Instant Ocean, it doesn't seem like it's got salt in it, just initially designed for marine applications but entirely freshwater safe.

Have you tested the GH and KH of your water to be sure?

 

Thanks so much for the informative thread. A couple of questions:

Does anyone know if the salt recharge of Nitra-zorb would be harmful for a tank with corys (salt sensitive IIRC)?

And along the same lines, is instant ocean's natural nitrate reducing product also a risk for salt sensitive cory's? I have extraordinarily soft city water and like the concept of increasing the buffering capacity.

Thanks!

I would use crushed coral in a media bag in your filter to increase your buffering capacity. I'm not sure exactly what they're saying. Are they saying 1) your buffering increases because nitrates aren't being formed thus the acids of the nitrogen cycle are not taking a toll on your carbonates or 2) that their product increases buffering. I am inclined to think #1 and so you would be better off using coral.

As far as nitra-zorb and salt, there should not be any salt left. It exchanges salt ions for nitrate ions and then the excess salt is rinsed away.

 

How would NitraZorb work with tap water that's already high in nitrates? Just thought of this, while keeping it in the solution, wouldn't it just try to absorb the nitrates in the water as it takes the salts ions?

 

Yes I would think so. Better to soak in nitrate free water. Bottled perhaps.

 

Yes I would think so. Better to soak in nitrate free water. Bottled perhaps.

ah, thank you for that thought too!

The NitraZorb should be safe. You rinse it off before each use, getting the salt off.

As far as the Instant Ocean, it doesn't seem like it's got salt in it, just initially designed for marine applications but entirely freshwater safe.

Have you tested the GH and KH of your water to be sure?

Yes, I have the API GH/KH test. Tap GH can be as low as 3 drops at times. Usually 4 or 5, KH is almost always 1 drop more (5-6). Tank is never as low as 3 but I still get excited when I can get to 5's and 6's. I keep Angels so I don't want the pH to go too high but it could really use some buffering capacity so the pH doesn't bounce around. Pondering both driftwood and crushed coral!

 

Pondering both driftwood and crushed coral!

That is precisely what I do for my tanks. My KH is really low out of the tap, but my pH is good, so I have a lot of crushed coral, and then some driftwood. Between the two, my pH holds sold at the same number it is coming out of the tap, which for me, is 7.8

 

My denitrate factory. This is the aquatop 30 reactor. This is 2.5-3L of denitrate on my 75G.

It's also a water flosser as a bonus. I had to redo it with more floss and new denitrate, bc the denitrate was getting dirty. 30 gph. Approximate

Also. I have had good results with a small amount of matrix first. Bc the aerobic bacteria use the oxygen first in matrix.

My 1L one will be Purigen and floss. Setting it up soon. That's the aquatop mr20.

With my current stocking 1-1.5L of denitrate even with plants and 4.5-6L of matrix was insufficient for 75Gallon. Fyi. I wasn't using Purigen. I've been treating with meds... So that's why I haven't used Purigen lately.

I'm heavily stocked. 28-40 juvenile clown loaches (can't count them all and many were sick, so I dunno how many have lived), 6 Siamese algae eaters, 60-150 shrimp, 2 guppies, 1 clown pleco, 10 otocinculus, 20 snails. Eventually many of my loaches will be given to a LFS

This stuff allows for weekly or biweekly water changes despite my fishload. Before I was hitting 80 ppm in a few days ( I do feed Bloodworms too and 10 ppm is in my tap water). Now it's 40 ppm by 1-2 weeks.

 

How would NitraZorb work with tap water that's already high in nitrates? Just thought of this, while keeping it in the solution, wouldn't it just try to absorb the nitrates in the water as it takes the salts ions?

Wow, I never thought of that! I use Nitra-Zorb, and when I store it I'm using straight tap water with added aquarium salt. My tap contains 10-20ppm nitrates. I don't know if this will eventually lessen the efficacy of the Ntra-Zorb, but can tell you that every time that I've put it back in my filter to get rid of higher nitrates that it still zaps them out in my tank very quickly.

 

Wow, I never thought of that! I use Nitra-Zorb, and when I store it I'm using straight tap water with added aquarium salt. My tap contains 10-20ppm nitrates. I don't know if this will eventually lessen the efficacy of the Ntra-Zorb, but can tell you that every time that I've put it back in my filter to get rid of higher nitrates that it still zaps them out in my tank very quickly.

Do you just store it in a zip lock bag? I just put some nitrazorb in two days ago. I've been battling nitrates that climb to about 40, now they are already down to between 5 and 10! I'm so happy with this!

 

Do you just store it in a zip lock bag? I just put some nitrazorb in two days ago. I've been battling nitrates that climb to about 40, now they are already down to between 5 and 10! I'm so happy with this!

I think the package says to store it in the salt solution. I'm going to use a larger Tupperware container.

I'll buy two so I can switch every week or two, rather not pull a canister apart twice or leave the filter off for a few hours. But I've got time before that. I'm going to be battling nitrates that start at 40, so I'm jealous

 

I store mine in plastic tupperware also. Rinse out real good when I take it out of the tank filter, then add tap and aquarium salt to the container and put the bag of Nitra-Zorb in and put on the lid. I just keep the containers near the tanks. When I go to use it again, I just rinse really well, then add back to the filter housing.

 

I would use denitrate in a reactor bc it wouldn't potentially need to be changed as often... But honestly. I'm looking at a 6 month change schedule on mine. I think

 

I would use denitrate in a reactor bc it wouldn't potentially need to be changed as often... But honestly. I'm looking at a 6 month change schedule on mine. I think

Thanks for sharing the reactor, I guess I thought those were only for saltwater tanks so hadn't looked into them at all. The unit you have seems to be an affordable solution!

 

Lots of great info in this thread. I just found it. I need to read it sometime when I am more wide awake so I can absorb more of it.

Thanks, everyone!

I have a large batch of the Seachem Matrix in a canister filter on one aquarium. It's been in there for a year or so. I can't say that it has done anything for that tank's nitrates. But I should check again.

Maybe I need to dose it with some Stability or something.

 

I just found an article, posted by Coradee, about nitrite producing bacteria. Though I haven't found much luck with nitrate or nitrogen producing ones yet of any caliber close to it. Information on the last two of the nitrogen cycle are hard to come by.

I'll keep looking for the nitrogen producers though, as they are what matrix was designed for.

Maybe your canister has too high of a gph flow?

 

I think the package says to store it in the salt solution. I'm going to use a larger Tupperware container.

I'll buy two so I can switch every week or two, rather not pull a canister apart twice or leave the filter off for a few hours. But I've got time before that. I'm going to be battling nitrates that start at 40, so I'm jealous

Let us know how it works. Mine was at 40 when I put it in, and the nitra zorb cleaned it right up. And thanks for the tip, I'll get some Tupperware ready.

 

I just found an article, posted by Coradee, about nitrite producing bacteria. Though I haven't found much luck with nitrate or nitrogen producing ones yet of any caliber close to it. Information on the last two of the nitrogen cycle are hard to come by.

I'll keep looking for the nitrogen producers though, as they are what matrix was designed for.

Maybe your canister has too high of a gph flow?

I Use a flow meter to measure my reactor. Right now it's at 28 gph... Later I'll increase it slightly when the floss gets dirtier. The denitrate houses denitrifying bacteria.

 

Lots of great info in this thread. I just found it. I need to read it sometime when I am more wide awake so I can absorb more of it.

Thanks, everyone!

I have a large batch of the Seachem Matrix in a canister filter on one aquarium. It's been in there for a year or so. I can't say that it has done anything for that tank's nitrates. But I should check again.

Maybe I need to dose it with some Stability or something.

It should definitely be doing something, and you really shouldn't need to dose it with anything. I just put it in my filters and waited.

 

I don't gravel vacuum. I could probably get to 25% of my gravel by moving stuff, but blah lol. I rely on my plants and bimonthly WC. and my denitrate reactor to remove nitrate even though aquaadvisor says I'm 250% stocked at their current sizes

So I recommend it strongly

My denitrate factory keeps nitrate at 40 ppm by the end of 2 week period look at the video of my stocking

The biggest is about 4 inches.

My filtration is 1 hydor professional 600 + 1 fluval fx6 and matrix

28-35 clown loaches, 12 otocinculus, 50-100 shrimp, 20 snails (golden and nerites), 7 Siamese algae eater, 2 guppies, 1 clown pleco.

 

It should definitely be doing something, and you really shouldn't need to dose it with anything. I just put it in my filters and waited.

Yes, exactly. Just like our nitrifyers grow on their own so will the de-nitrifyers once a place is provided for them like matrix. I didn't add anything to my tank, just waited awhile, seems like over a month before I started seeing results. I don't need nitrazorb anymore because it worked so well but I will probably start using it in my pond filter along with the liter of matrix I put in there.

I also always have one stored in a Tupperware container so it's ready to swap out. It's nice to see this thread is still so full of informative postings!

 

I don't need nitrazorb anymore because it worked so well but I will probably start using it in my pond filter along with the liter of matrix I put in there.

I also always have one stored in a Tupperware container so it's ready to swap out. It's nice to see this thread is still so full of informative postings!

Yes, truly useful. I bought nitrazorb as a sort of insurance policy when I removed all my old gunky gravel and switched to sand. I should probably store it in a salt solution to have ready to go in case an emergency arises!

That is precisely what I do for my tanks. My KH is really low out of the tap, but my pH is good, so I have a lot of crushed coral, and then some driftwood. Between the two, my pH holds sold at the same number it is coming out of the tap, which for me, is 7.8

Thanks for the nudge. Boiling driftwood as we speak. Added cuttlebone in the HOB (because it was more easily obtainable than the crushed coral). Hopefully I can break even on the pH and increase the stability by increasing the buffering capacity (wish me luck).