Fishkeeper's Worst Nightmares?

[Disturbed.)]

Having the tank level is more of an aesthetic thing, trying to level a tank can make it more appealing to the eye but structurally worse if it doesn't stay true. It is technically correct that if it is out of level that slightly more pressure is exerted on one pane than the rest, however, twisting the seals is far more dangerous. Having it supported fully and true is very important. If the last tank hung over the sides the way this one does it definitely contributed to it pulling apart.

 

[goldface]

Yeah, I wouldn’t feel comfortable with part of the bottom overhanging either. From what little I know, the four corners should definitely be supported.

 

[Disturbed.)]

On glass you can get away with only supporting the full front and back, and on narrower tanks, only fully supporting the sides. You can't let them cantilever. Glass is really really strong stuff but you have to play to its strengths and can't ignore its weaknesses. I work in fiber optics a piece of glass only 9 microns wide is sending you this forum post now, that and every phone call txt web page you visit, pretty much everything in society now. The outer cladding is only 125 microns in diameter. Flex it even a little bit to much and it snaps but if you lose that piece it might stab clear through your finger or worse your eye if pressed the right way.
This tank came apart if I read it right, which meant the glass could handle the stress but the old silicone joints couldn't. The panes were stressed and their old joints gave in kind of like mine

 

[Blaze]

The other tank was on a different stand that covered the whole bottom of the aquarium, now the deal with the new 55 and what it's being held on. I was not prepared to have a tank bust apart on me nor was I planning on upgrading to a larger newer tank until summer came along, so I was not prepared to have a 55 gallon setup within 2 days without having a proper stand to hold it. The table it's on is solid hardwood and yes unfortunately it's hanging over nearly an inch on one side, nothing I can do about that it had to go on something level and stable and that all I had on hand.
I'm nearly completely broke now since I had to buy a 250 dollar fish tank so buying a stand that's an extra hundred dollars isn't possible right now it will happen but not for awhile this set us back big time.

But that's life, you just gotta pick up the pieces and get back up.

 

[GreekGills]

Great way of looking at it Life has it's strange ways of keeping us on our toes.

 

[Blaze]

On glass you can get away with only supporting the full front and back, and on narrower tanks, only fully supporting the sides. You can't let them cantilever. Glass is really really strong stuff but you have to play to its strengths and can't ignore its weaknesses. I work in fiber optics a piece of glass only 9 microns wide is sending you this forum post now, that and every phone call txt web page you visit, pretty much everything in society now. The outer cladding is only 125 microns in diameter. Flex it even a little bit to much and it snaps but if you lose that piece it might stab clear through your finger or worse your eye if pressed the right way.
This tank came apart if I read it right, which meant the glass could handle the stress but the old silicone joints couldn't. The panes were stressed and their old joints gave in kind of like mine

No doubt the glass is strong, seeing how the seal came fully undone on the right back corner and the left front corner came apart halfway the glass never once bowed out or anything, plus after I emptied it out I dropped it by accident and nothing happened no cracks nothing. So in my personal opinion that glass is stronger than people think

 

[fissh]

I personally won't use a glass tank over 40 gallons. An acrylic tank seems really cheap compared to whipping your house out, or your neighbores house that live below you. As mentioned level isn't as important than a flat surface, even though both are important. It sounds like bad prep on the seal job on you old tank. If you can't afford a new stand for your new tank get a 3/4" or 1" piece of plywood cut it 1/2" larger all the way around than the new tank, so it has a 1/2" lip and put it on the table under the tank. that should take any possible future problems away.

 

[86 ssinit]

Like above I’m into the acrylic now. As I said earlier I had a 200 crack on me. It sprong a leak about 8” in from the bottom corner and that leak quickly became a crack that traveled from the bottom to the top. About 6”from the top it broke right off and 200 gal exited my tank in around 5 seconds.

 

[Blaze]

Like above I’m into the acrylic now. As I said earlier I had a 200 crack on me. It sprong a leak about 8” in from the bottom corner and that leak quickly became a crack that traveled from the bottom to the top. About 6”from the top it broke right off and 200 gal exited my tank in around 5 seconds.

It's scary. My lfs doesn't hold acrylic tanks I'd have to order it and that's too costly.. granted I'd love to and rather have a acrylic aquarium but like I said they don't sell those around here and for my town it's kinda a specialty item

 

[Rythmyc]

Okay, so first I'll go into a cheap option to support the complete bottom of the tank, because it is completely needed.

You need to get a piece of plywood and a self leveling mat. Together, this will cost you about $30-$40.

Like had been stated. Glass is strong, however, silicone is NOT. You're twisting the tank right now, putting A LOT of pressure on those seals. Everyday you refuse to fully support the four corners, you're weakening the tank in the long run. Considering that's a new tank, it won't be busting seals anytime soon, but you are risking cracks. It can happen, and likely will if it isn't remedied soon. I would at least get the plywood and self leveling mat for now. Then use them on your stand when you get it.

 

[Disturbed.)]

If you can't afford a new stand for your new tank get a 3/4" or 1" piece of plywood cut it 1/2" larger all the way around than the new tank, so it has a 1/2" lip and put it on the table under the tank. that should take any possible future problems away.

Agree 100% it may set you back a little more right now but it may save that investment you just made. The stand is every bit as important as the tank and not something you can cut corners on if you can excuse the pun. Pretty it all up later get it safe for now.

 

[Deaddawg]

It would be nice if the corners had some sort of reinforcement like the tops and bottoms.

 

[Alaina Leigh]

Hello all,

How do you check the seams of your tank t make sure that all are in order?

I have a 55 gallon I got off of Craigslist and didn't ask about it's history. I'm concerned now. Can anyone walk me through how you can assess the integrity of the seams?

Thank you in advance.

 

[Asiyah]

I actually have a pretty new 75gal I purchased from Petsmart online during the past black friday...I have it set up barebottom with a FH and some plants. I have seen some disturbing bubbles in the seams and I'm hoping I won't have a horrible surprise like the one posted..Any ideas on if this is serious? Also I can't remember if these were here originally or if it was after being filled. I only noticed them after setting up with water...

 

[BBnL]

I'm concerned now, also, tho only dealing w 20 h and 20 l. Water level seems to drop so fast. Obviously evaporation as hard water residue on tank cover, but is it all evaporation? I check all around and feel/see no signs of water....but can evaporation on a covered tank be fast?

 

[Disturbed.)]

It would be nice if the corners had some sort of reinforcement like the tops and bottoms.

They do. The tops and bottoms are the reinforcement for the sides. Water pressure is higher at the bottom but its still only pushing out, so the top and bottom trim pieces are the corner reinforcement. Go ahead and cut the centerpiece on the trim of a cheap 55 fill it up and you'll see how much they keep the corners in check. I'm kidding only attempt that outside with no fish on a scratched up tank you don't care about.

 

[Deaddawg]

They do. The tops and bottoms are the reinforcement for the sides. Water pressure is higher at the bottom but its still only pushing out, so the top and bottom trim pieces are the corner reinforcement. Go ahead and cut the centerpiece on the trim of a cheap 55 fill it up and you'll see how much they keep the corners in check. I'm kidding only attempt that outside with no fish on a scratched up tank you don't care about.

Yes support at the top and bottom but no support in the middle of the tank on the edges.

 

[Disturbed.)]

The only way you will get that is with another full band around the aquarium in the center. You could add verticle corner pieces and silicone them but they will only reinforce the seal not the integrity of the tank. Once something affects the integrity every seal will fail in time

The thickness of your glass or acrylic is not determined by how big your tank is but by how tall it is. As I mentioned water pressure presses out into the lighter air pressure. More so at the bottom because of the higher water pressure than at the top. Most tanks are built with thin plastic trim/reinforcements because the glass is already tough enough to handle that stress. The bottom trim holds the bottom up so that it doesn't have to be perfectly supported. That pane hold all of the water pressure from above with ease because it can't go any lower. The side panes have to hold less pressure at the top than the bottom but again the pressure is out into the air in all directions not focused on the seams. Depending on the length of the tank horizontal reinforcements keep the glass from flexing out to far and pulling apart those seams, usually 2 feet. Since most tanks are 2' or less from back to front no reinforcing is needed on that plane.

 

[Blaze]

Ok I sent the new tank back and got a replacement after realizing that the new tank was faulty, the seams weren't placed correctly and the tank was not safe to me. So I sent it back and got a replacement one which looks to be built better, I also took everyone's advise and got plywood to place to new tank on therefore all four corners are flat and level

it's not fully setup how I want it right now, I'm waiting until summer when our LFS gets more aquatic plants.

 

[Goldiemom]

So should we purchase new tanks after a so many years? I always worry about this happening.

View attachment 418956 it's not fully setup how I want it right now, I'm waiting until summer when our LFS gets more aquatic plants.

Looks very nice. You can also order plants from Aquarium Plants Factory. They were suggested to me on the forum and I have been pleased with them.

 

[Blaze]

So should we purchase new tanks after a so many years? I always worry about this happening.

I'd say at least every 4 maybe 5yrs.
My theory is that water changes and the emptying and refilling of any tank will over time completely weaken the integrity of the tank and the seals making it more prone to stress fractures and detachment of the seals.
But it really does depend on how well the tank was made and what it's made from. Some tanks will last a lifetime if built properly and maintained others could collapse within 2yrs.

Best advice when buying new tank is always inspect every nook and cranny on that tank like you're Sherlock Holmes looking for his magnifying glass. Because if you don't look it over to make sure everything is in tip top shape you'll end up paying in the end

 

[86 ssinit]

I think tanks are good for at least 10 years. Water changes won’t stress them that much. I think most problems happen when they are drained and moved. The moving adds to the stress. My 200 was around 20yrs old. Got it from a friend who had it for at least 10 and I had it set up for around 7.

 

[BBnL]

Changing out a tank sounds like an almost insurmountable task....where do fish, plants , gravel all go in between??? Is a lone person even able ? Argh...didnt need any more issues to worry about. Just want my fish family healthy and well. Yes, in an intact tank.

Blaze..congrats on new tank. Good luck!

 

[Blaze]

I think tanks are good for at least 10 years. Water changes won’t stress them that much. I think most problems happen when they are drained and moved. The moving adds to the stress. My 200 was around 20yrs old. Got it from a friend who had it for at least 10 and I had it set up for around 7.

But one thing you never hear about on any fish forums, is how do people fill their Aquariums during water changes? Do some of you just dump the water quickly into the tank or do some of you pour the water into the tank slowly either with a hose or with a small jug?
Because how rapidly you pour water into an aquarium determines how much stress you're putting the aquarium through. Like if you dump a whole 5gal bucket of water quickly into the tank you're stressing the seals and integrity of the aquarium.

With that being said lots of factors come in to play when it comes to water changes and how quickly water is being added at once

 

[Blaze]

Changing out a tank sounds like an almost insurmountable task....where do fish, plants , gravel all go in between??? Is a lone person even able ? Argh...didnt need any more issues to worry about. Just want my fish family healthy and well. Yes, in an intact tank.

I'm confused what you're question is¿

 

[Siphon]

Ive had the same tank I had when I was 16 and I baught it used then. I'm 26 now haha no leaks

Ive picked it up full and moved it before too. I don't anymore haha

 

[Deaddawg]

Changing out a tank sounds like an almost insurmountable task....where do fish, plants , gravel all go in between??? Is a lone person even able ? Argh...didnt need any more issues to worry about. Just want my fish family healthy and well. Yes, in an intact tank.

Blaze..congrats on new tank. Good luck!

Buckets lots of buckets.

 

[Blaze]

Ive had the same tank I had when I was 16 and I baught it used then. I'm 26 now haha no leaks

Ive picked it up full and moved it before too. I don't anymore haha

It depends on how well it was built.
If it's built right it should last a lifetime.
I personally wouldn't feel safe using an aquarium that's older than 10 years though. Especially if it's larger than 20 gallons

 

[Siphon]

It started leaking at 2am lastnite I'm not kidding

 

[Blaze]

It started leaking at 2am lastnite I'm not kidding

Bro I'm telling you, you guys have to play that safe and just suck it up and get a new tank or just get rid of the whole setup completely because what just happened to you and myself Will definitely happen to anyone else who has either an old tank that they've had for yrs or something they got for free or at a garage sale.

I'm just thankful that what happened to me and you will help others who are unaware about degradation of the integrity of glass Aquariums and how a total failure of the seals will eventually happen.

Would I be able to suggest the MODS to create a thread or something about what I'm talking about on this? So folks around can be informed on Home Aquarium Life Expectancy.
I couldn't think of how to word what I was thinking lol.

 

[Siphon]

Yeah your right. I baught a 20 gallon 10 minuts ago

 

[Rythmyc]

Just to answer and hopefully clarify some questions and concerns that have been posted on this thread.

The little bubbles in the side seams are perfectly normal. You have nothing to worry about.

As far as integrity over time. It is recommended to reseal or replace your tank every 10-15 years. Smaller tanks will last longer. Resealing a tank isn't that large of a task, and pretty easy if you take your time. Just make sure you use the correct materials. There are plenty of videos online explaining how to do this.

 

[Fanatic]

Glass tanks require all four sides and corners to be fully supported on a flat surface.
If it's not that way, one or all the corners will eventually give out.

 

[Blaze]

Hey at the very least you've got a new Aquarium that you shouldn't have to worry about for quite some time, plus you get to setup the environment better than before

 

[fissh]

If your tank is near any electronics or you have young kids that throw things, acrylic is the way to go. I have 690 total gallons of glass tanks in my fish room (were a spill is more of a mishap, than a major problem) ALL of which bought new. And 770 total gallon of acrylic in the house, all of which I bought used. No leaks in any of them (so far). The main problem with glass is when it's moved and has to resettle in it's now spot. That's when most leaks and mishaps occur. Glass don't bend, and acrylic does! I had a LFS in the same location for 26 years, it had 220 glass tanks up and running the whole time with only 12 leakers in 26 years! If I would of moved them around, I would have had at least 25% to 30% leakers. As far as acrylic, I've seen 1 real leaker ever. I only use the name brands of tanks. My oldest tank is a 38 years old acrylic 100 gallon, that's in great shape . SOO you fishloreans figure it out.

 

[Blaze]

If your tank is near any electronics or you have young kids that throw things, acrylic is the way to go. I have 690 total gallons of glass tanks in my fish room (were a spill is more of a mishap, than a major problem) ALL of which bought new. And 770 total gallon of acrylic in the house, all of which I bought used. No leaks in any of them (so far). The main problem with glass is when it's moved and has to resettle in it's now spot. That's when most leaks and mishaps occur. Glass don't bend, and acrylic does! I had a LFS in the same location for 26 years, it had 220 glass tanks up and running the whole time with only 12 leakers in 26 years! If I would of moved them around, I would have had at least 25% to 30% leakers. As far as acrylic, I've seen 1 real leaker ever. I only use the name brands of tanks. My oldest tank is a 38 years old acrylic 100 gallon, that's in great shapeView attachment 420690 . SOO you fishloreans figure it out.

Like I had said before.
It depends on how well it was made and by whom AKA Brand Name.
Some can last a lifetime if properly made and maintained nothing more nothing less.

 

[Blaze]

This post is still relevant. I think some users who are new to this site should have a read

 

[Disturbed.)]

There is a lot of good info here for sure. I must add though that every tank I own now, other than my big display that was in cold storage for more than 10 years, was picked up used and most are flea market/craigslist with no history. When in doubt reseal and if the integrity is in any question cut apart and rebuild. If your not skilled at that you should start with tanks that really should just be tossed because the initial cost plus the re-seal or rebuild cost is close to getting a tank on a dollar a gallon sale. You come away with the experience and if you're even more adventurous you can use those tanks to learn how to drill as well. I'm cutting apart a known good, but I find iffy, 120 I got for a song. I'm going to rebuild it with my first external overflow. It's out in the shed sprayed down with WD-40 so when I finally find the time it will nearly pull apart by hand. I couldn't have fathomed doing such a thing to a usable tank 20 years ago.

 

[86 ssinit]

Fissh I’m new to acrylic what do you use to scrape the algae off? I have the magnetic scraper for acrylic but it’s useless. Also is there a way to remove scratches from the inside of the tank while full? Thanks.

 

[Imcrayfishareawesome]

The following is an EXACT QUOTE from what ought to be the worst book ever (the worst of the quotes, there is a chapter full of this nonsense).

"There used to be in the window of a jewelry store, in an Ohio town, an ordinary glass fish globe, in which lived and thrived a saucy little brook trout."
"It is a great mistake to suppose that it is necessary to change the water in the aquarium every few days. The tank should be so arranged as to seldom if ever require a change of water. This is not difficult to obtain."
"The author has a tank 25 inches long, 11 inches wide and 12 inches high-far too narrow and deep; but these defects have been, in a measure, overcome by filling it only 2/3 full of water, and allowing the green vegetation to grow undisturbed upon three sides of the aquarium; the retaining side is kept clean by rubbing off all vegetable matter once a week with a long-handled bottle-washer. But one of the inmates has died since last summer, and that was a bachelor stickleback, who probably received a nip from the pinchers of one of the craw-fish. two of these creatures have their den in the rockery that occupies the centere of the tank. A German carp, from the Washington breeding farm browses all daylong upon the mossy surface of the rocks, or roots around the bottom, taking great mouthfuls of sand an then puffing it out again like smoke. a striped dace spends most of his time lying flat upon his stomach. a big and a little "killie" dart aroundafter the boat-bugs, which the seldom catch. A diminative pond-bass assorts his authority over the larger fish in a most tyrannous manner. an eel lives under the sand in the bottom."

 

[JB92668]

wow

 

[Lakefish]

What book is that from?

 

[Imcrayfishareawesome]

The american boy's handy book centennial edition

 

[Frank the Fish guy]

The author was born in 1850 and wrote the book in 1882. Different times indeed.

At that time, folks would go to the river and catch stuff, and just put it into a glass container.

There was controversy at that time because some folks found that you must change the water every few days.

But sometimes, certain fish (like this brook trout) would survive in this environment with water changes only done rarely like the author describes. That is where goldfish came from too. The selection of fish that can survive in bowls!

He found that all of the extra plants helped. They provided the oxygen and cleaned the water. He was on to something actually, since we know how and why that works now.