Cory advice

Valliry7

New Member
Member
Messages
23
I woke up Friday to one of my peppered corydoras in the process of laying eggs. I didn't do anything differently at all to get her to lay them. I do water changes on Saturday, so it wasn't that either. I was/am very excited! I have very little idea what to do after they hatch. I did collect 7 eggs and put them in a make shift breeder box (water bottle with holes, clipped on the inside of my tank). There are at least 15 other eggs I can see in various locations in the tank (glass, leaves filter tubing). Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
 

Advertisement
Most times they will just lay them randomly ( my albinos don’t) . If they are fertilized they will turn an orangish color.
my 3 year old corries still have never laid any eggs no matter what I do! So I cannot give advice on how to raise fry.
but MissNoodle can.
 

Advertisement
Most times they will just lay them randomly ( my albinos don’t) . If they are fertilized they will turn an orangish color.
my 3 year old corries still have never laid any eggs no matter what I do! So I cannot give advice on how to raise fry.
but MissNoodle can.
Not cory fry, mine have never laid eggs even. Next year ill be looking to breeding my weitzmanI but not yet lol

Coradee or DoubleDutch breed cories and may be able to offer advice.
coralbandit may know too, but unsure if they still breed cories now, but lots of fry experience at least.
 
I would get the other eggs if you want them .I am pretty sure most cories will eat the eggs when they find them .
I never had any luck with my Orange Lasers for like 4 years so I gave them to the one guy I know that does know how to breed cories ..
DarkOne .
Pretty sure they just wiggle a couple days and then free swim and you feed .
They accept BBS or vinegar eels/microworms while young eventually being weaned to what ever you want to feed .
Welcome ,congrats and enjoy
 
some corys will definitely eat eggs, and not all the eggs may be fertilized! some people say corys will eat their fry, but they most likely won't hunt them out to eat them, but they won't NOT eat them if that makes sense if any of the eggs get hazy or start growing stuff take them out right away! the fungus can easily spread from nonfertilized eggs to healthy fertilized ones
 

Advertisement
I stumbled on a winning formula completely by accident, been hatching and raising peppered corys for about a year and a half now.

I hatch them in a container with an airstone (plus small betta heater if the ambient temp will be too low.) I now have a permanent planted 1 gallon container that has a few cherry shrimp all the time, but when I started it was just a bowl or small Sterilite container.

Once hatched, I'd put some Java moss from a mature tank in with them (place to hide, plus infusoria) and once able to swim well enough to be able to make it to the top of a 10 gallon tank, I'd dump them into my planted shrimp tank.

Usually wouldn't see them again for a month to six weeks, the tank is very heavily planted. Eventually they'd start showing themselves, and when they were big enough not to get into the sump in my larger grow-out tank, I'd move them to there.

I never fed them anything special; the mature planted tank (plus pellets for the shrimp) provided enough food for the 10-15 eggs/fry that I saved out of each spawning.

Now with the permanent 1-gallon container, I give them longer in there before they go to the 10 gallon shrimp tank. Still don't have to feed them anything special in there; I put a little pinch of Fancy Guppy or a single small Aqueon shrimp pellet in (daily or every other day), 3-4 days after hatching when they've absorbed the yolk sac. The shrimp clean up anything the fry don't eat. Usually get 100% survival rate, every now and then one doesn't thrive once moved into the shrimp tank.

Having a mature planted tank isn't the normal way people raise cory fry, nor is it something that someone might readily have on hand to house fry. I just stumbled into it because my shrimp tank was the safest place I could think of to put them, that first time (sponge filter, no predators.) It has worked out quite well for me overall.
 
I would get the other eggs if you want them .I am pretty sure most cories will eat the eggs when they find them .
I never had any luck with my Orange Lasers for like 4 years so I gave them to the one guy I know that does know how to breed cories ..
DarkOne .
Pretty sure they just wiggle a couple days and then free swim and you feed .
They accept BBS or vinegar eels/microworms while young eventually being weaned to what ever you want to feed .
Welcome ,congrats and enjoy

I haven't breed many but I'm getting good at SterbaI breeding. The OLCs bred twice but the 2nd time was only 2-3 eggs. I haven't really tried since there were 2 breeding boxes hanging off the tank and I didn't want to shock the fry in those boxes with cooler water. The EBA fry were moved to another tank so I just have 13 SterbaI fry in the breeder box now. I wasn't planning on breeding them again just yet but they're like rabbits even when the conditions aren't right.

If the cories don't get the eggs, other fish in the tank will within 24 hrs. Most cory eggs will hatch in 3-6 days. They'll have a yolk sac (looks clear usually) and some say not to feed for the first 3 days but I feed mine microworms after 24hrs. The worms will live 12-24hrs so they have a food source on demand all the time.

Community breeding works if you have an empty planted tank but you'll still get losses. Make sure you have a place to grow them out if you hatch the eggs. C. Aeneus and C. Paleatus (peppered) usually breed like rabbits so if you don't collect all the eggs now, they'll start breeding again in a few weeks.
 
  • Thread Starter
  • #9
Thank you all for the advice! I collected the eggs that I could - seems I have fish that have a taste for eggs - and ended up with 9 that seemed viable. Purchased one of those plastic in tank 3 in 1 breeder boxes and put the eggs in there. The HikarI First Bites were only $3, so I got that just in case I end up with fry. **fingers are crossed**
 
Advertisement



Advertisement








Advertisement




Back
Top Bottom