Drift wood can bring PH up a bit. Other than that I'm not 100% sure. There are chemicals for PH but to be honest I haven't heard good things about those.
I have a thermometer in my tank, the temp is 80 but I also have a heater I can put in there to bring it up a little bit if I need to. What sponge filter do you recommend? I'll buy a test kit and some IALOne of the best things you can do to fix fin rot is keep pristine water conditions for your betta.
So here's how you do that when you aren't super familiar with the nitrogen cycle:
1. Do 25-50% water changes every day. When you do the water change make sure you suck up any detritus (crud) on the bottom of the tank. Make sure the water you add in after the water change is treated with a dechlorinator before it goes in the tank. Also make sure it is the same temp as the tank water.
2. Get a sponge filter in there. The sponge is where your BB (beneficial bacteria) will grow. Don't clean this out very often. The BB are good. You want them. Rinse the filter maybe once a month at most. And rinse it only in the dirty tank water from a water change. Never straight water from the tap. It has chlorine and will kill all your BB.
3. Get a proper test kit like the API kit. Its not hard to use, it has instructions. Start a log where you test your water daily or every other day.
4. What is your water temp? Your betta is a tropical fish. They heal faster in warmer waters. I recommend 82-86 for a healing betta. A tank heater may be useful to you to achieve this but make sure you also have a thermometer to check and make sure the temp is where you want it.
5. Get yourself some IAL. That's Indian Almond Leaf. They sell it on Ebay or Amazon. Not expensive Stick a leaf in his tank and let it float. It will eventually sink and it will stain the water a light yellowy-brown tea like color. This is what you want. The tannins in these leaves help encourage natural healing for bettas. You can leave a leaf in their tank for a month. Letting it break down in the tank is fine. Your betta will like it. They often build bubble nests under the floating IAL leaves.
There used to be black on the edge of his fins. I read that white on the edge of the fins means his fins are growing back??Looking at your pics it doesn't really look like fin rot. With fin rot the edges are usually red and irritated these look almost cut like hes biting his tail.
It can! It is certainly something to watch. It can be a sign that the fin tissue is growing back.There used to be black on the edge of his fins. I read that white on the edge of the fins means his fins are growing back??
You do realize Melafix and Bettafix are basically the same thing right? One just has less concentrated Melaleuca in it. All you have to do is use a 1/5 of Melafix and boom you have Bettafix. Everyone thinks you have to buy Bettafix to treat Bettas, meanwhile its just a marketing scam.Do not treat a betta with Melafix EVER.
Extremely dangerous for their labyrinth organ. Aquarium salt is also not recommended because betta's are extremely sensitive to it.
The best to treat finrot is clean water. What are your tank's parameters? Temperature? Dimensions?
If you really need to medicate, use Paraguard or Methylene Blue dips.
Do not treat a betta with Melafix EVER.
Extremely dangerous for their labyrinth organ. Aquarium salt is also not recommended because betta's are extremely sensitive to it.
The best to treat finrot is clean water. What are your tank's parameters? Temperature? Dimensions?
If you really need to medicate, use Paraguard or Methylene Blue dips.
No you are absolutely wrong on this topic. They both have the EXACT SAME INGREDIENTS! It's Tea Tree Oil, one has 1.0% Melaleuca (Melafix) and the other has 0.2% Melaleuca in it (Bettafix) other than that has the SAME EXACT INGREDIENTS. It's a marketing scam. All someone has to do is dilute the Melafix with 5 drops of water and they are good to go. It is not "harmful" or "dangerous" to Betta fish. If you don't believe me then LOOK IT UP!Both Melafix AND bettafix are extremely controversial medication because the oil can cover the labyrinth organ, making it impossible for the betta to breath correctly.
I only said Melafix because it is what you mentioned. If you would've said bettafix my answer would have been the same.
Lol they are NOT dangerous... As long as you use the recommended dose for the fish they are perfectly 100% safe to use. This isn't my first rodeo, I've helped hundreds of people with their Betta fish recommending they use Melafix for finrot and every single one of them have had nothing but great results. The only thing I tell them to do different is change their water after 1 day of Melafix treatment...... I'm sorry if you got confused but I am aware that it is the same ingredients . That is why I'm saying that both are dangerous...
Please read above so I don't have to explain it again.Both Melafix bien and bettafix are known to be potentially dangerous for Bettas because the oil will cover their labyrinth.
You're alone in your argument, good luck when the cavalry shows up..Please read above so I don't have to explain it again.
Do not treat a betta with Melafix EVER.
Extremely dangerous for their labyrinth organ. Aquarium salt is also not recommended because betta's are extremely sensitive to it.
The best to treat finrot is clean water. What are your tank's parameters? Temperature? Dimensions?
If you really need to medicate, use Paraguard or Methylene Blue dips.
I would put him back in his tank and change 50% of the water everyday... pristine water is by far the best medicine! As for your pH, don't mess with it it's actually not a problem at all. You can have a pH from 6 to 8 and your fish will be safe, what can be dangerous is variation in the pH. Stability is the key, so just keep it at 6.8 it's not a problem at all. 72 is very cold for a betta.... so yes it is probably stressing him. Do you plan on upgrading for the 20 gallon soon? It's a very good idea.Ph 6.8
Ammonia 0 ppm
Nitrite 0 ppm
Nitrate 0 ppm
I will raise the Ph a bit for him right after I'm done writing this. His tank is 2.5 gallons. I know it's a bit small but I'm setting up a 20 gallon long for him soon. His temperature hasn't been the greatest which could be a reason for him to get sick. I don't have a good heater for him because the smallest one I have right now is for 5 gallons and it goes way above 80 degrees if I just leave it on for an hour. His temps are usually 72 degrees which sucks. I think that could've stressed him out and led to his fin to rot. Do you think I should continue with the saltwater treatment or put him back in his tank and do a water change everyday for a week or so?
I would put him back in his tank and change 50% of the water everyday... pristine water is by far the best medicine! As for your pH, don't mess with it it's actually not a problem at all. You can have a pH from 6 to 8 and your fish will be safe, what can be dangerous is variation in the pH. Stability is the key, so just keep it at 6.8 it's not a problem at all. 72 is very cold for a betta.... so yes it is probably stressing him. Do you plan on upgrading for the 20 gallon soon? It's a very good idea.
Is your tank cycled? Because the 0 nitrate reading leads me to think it is not. So you know about the nitrogen cycle?
If the water temperature gets higher than 82 remove stop the heater! As for your nitrates, when and how bug was your last water change? If it was very recent, maybe you just don't have a lot which is good. But if it is really 0, it could mean your cycle has crashed. Normally nitrates should be less than 40 to be safe!Yes, my tank is cycled. I've had it running for around a year. And I do know about the nitrogen cycle. All I know is that when I tested the nitrates 20 minutes ago, the reading from my API Freshwater Master Test Kit was very yellow which matched with 0 ppm.
I'll go ahead and put him back in his tank. I'll add the heater and just keep a close watch on it. Is the 0 nitrate something to be super worried about? I thought it was ideal to get it as close to 0 ppm as you could. I have a rough estimate of setting up the 20 gallon in a few weeks or so. I still need a couple of things for it.
If the water temperature gets higher than 82 remove stop the heater! As for your nitrates, when and how bug was your last water change? If it was very recent, maybe you just don't have a lot which is good. But if it is really 0, it could mean your cycle has crashed. Normally nitrates should be less than 40 to be safe!
that explain the 0 reading. No need to worry then!I did a 75% water change just a few hours ago. Normally I just do a 25% water change once a week but due to the bettas illness, I decided I should do a big chunk of cleaning.
that explain the 0 reading. No need to worry then!
I recently got rid of the small amount of live plants that I had in there. I think the nitrates at 0 ppm was caused because of the 75% water change that I did earlier.Do you have live plants? That can also zero out your nitrates.
My Beta loves his amazon sword. He made a sleeping bag out of two leaves and zipped it up with a bubble nest. And the plant keeps the nitrates down.
Oh goodness, lots of emotions. I had tail rot start up about 2 months ago with my betta. I used apI fin and tail rot. I warmed it up to 79, and I put in a katappa leaf, all within a week, and the rot stopped. I used the apI fin and tail rot exactly as directed. He also has a bubbler, but I turned off filtration and a uv sterilizer because he was struggling to swim and that was adding a small current to his tank. He had also stopped using his hammock and stayed at the bottom. I lowered his water depth to about 4 or 5 inches once his medication was done so it wouldn't be so hard for him swim up to get air. With less water in his tank, I ended up doing small water changes daily, which I am still doing while he heals.That's really cute!! I'm going to be setting up a 20 gallon long with a lot of different plants! I think we are getting a bit off topic though and I'm sure there's a moderator lurking somewhere waiting to bite us in the butt. Best wishes for you and your betta!
Oh goodness, lots of emotions. I had tail rot start up about 2 months ago with my betta. I used apI fin and tail rot. I warmed it up to 79, and I put in a katappa leaf, all within a week, and the rot stopped. I used the apI fin and tail rot exactly as directed. He also has a bubbler, but I turned off filtration and a uv sterilizer because he was struggling to swim and that was adding a small current to his tank. He had also stopped using his hammock and stayed at the bottom. I lowered his water depth to about 4 or 5 inches once his medication was done so it wouldn't be so hard for him swim up to get air. With less water in his tank, I ended up doing small water changes daily, which I am still doing while he heals.That's really cute!! I'm going to be setting up a 20 gallon long with a lot of different plants! I think we are getting a bit off topic though and I'm sure there's a moderator lurking somewhere waiting to bite us in the butt. Best wishes for you and your betta!
Betta's don't need a lot of oxygen in the water, or at least not as much as other fish. If your filter has at least a decent flow I'm sure there's enough oxygen... maybe he just likes it under the filterThank you so much for the info! I will update you in a week on how he's doing . One last thing, he spends a considerable amount of time at the bottom of his tank, under the filter where the water is being taken in. I don't know if it's because there's more oxygen there or what. I still have his air pump in there but he still camps under his filter. I don't want to increase the bubbles because he can't swim well enough against the current. Any advice?
Betta's don't need a lot of oxygen in the water, or at least not as much as other fish. If your filter has at least a decent flow I'm sure there's enough oxygen... maybe he just likes it under the filter
Which filter exactly do you have?
No I still can't see it... but if it's worst than the first picture you posted I would try medication. Id go with a simple Methylene blue dip for 15 minutes then put him back in his tank. Then do a dip every two-three days.
It’s not fin rot, if your water is clean like you say. He could be tailbiting, which my boy used to do, so I treat him with aquarium salt to keep it from being infected, but he never stopped biting. He had a ripped tail for his whole life but never got infected tanks to keeping the water clean and the aquarium salt (a small pinch every few cleanings). I hope this helps!HI everyone! I'm new here, and came to ask a question about my male betta fish, Sunny.
I have a 5 gallon tank, filtered, with live plants, gravel substrate, 2 moss balls, and almond leaves. I'm using the PRIME as a conditioner, and the API liquid test kit. My water perimeters are:
Ammonia: 0 ppm
Nitrite: 0 ppm
Nitrate: 5 ppm
pH: 7.0
About a month ago I noticed Sunny's tail getting holes and tears. I assumed it was because of the decor in the tank, and had them removed. The tears/fin loss continued to worsen for a while, before it stopped progressing any further (didn't get better, but also didn't get worse).
But last week I noticed his lower fin/tail is starting to get new tears too, when it didn't have any before! The fins don't look clamped, but because of the large amount of loss, they look very small, and I feel so sad for him!
I am doing 15% water changes every other day now to make sure his water stays as clean as possible, but the tears keep getting worse! I don't know if this is rot or just him getting his fins snagged on things? The plants maybe? We do have floating plants with exposed roots, which he likes to swim through, but they don't seem like they could be that damaging? I have already removed these floating plants just in case, but I am still noticing more new tears!!
He's also been hanging around and resting on top of the corner filter. I hope someone here can help and advise me on what to do to for Sunny. I miss seeing him so beautiful and fanned. I feel like I am at my wits end, and am so so worried
Thanks in advance!! (The pictures I attached shows the floating plants before having removed them)
I think the most likely culprit is the filter
Oh there's really nothing in their that can hurt him unless the filter somehow sucks him in. Hmmmmm

