Another "No Water Change" Fish Tank

Hello again FL...

Here's an 18 gallon plastic container tank with roughly 50 Fancy Guppies. The plant is an Aglaonema house plant that I immersed in the tank a while back. This tank has never needed a water change and there's a very small bacteria colony that works at night to keep the water clean, while the plant rests. I feed the fish a little a couple of times a day. The fish do their business in the water, it dissolves and the plant removes the waste. Of course, the plant receives nutrients all day, so it gets much larger than a normal house plant that is watered and fertilized just once a week. There's no trace of ammonia or nitrite in the tank water and the nitrates don't register on a testing strip.

Old

 

Are you able to pick the plants up to see the guppies or is the root system from the plants going into a substrate at the bottom or is it bare? Just curiousity questions.

 

It's really cool that your tank supports everything so well, I wish I didn't have to do water changes!!

 

Are you able to pick the plants up to see the guppies or is the root system from the plants going into a substrate at the bottom or is it bare? Just curiousity questions.

Hello kal...

Whoa! Just posted this. You're quick! I can see the fish if I move the leaves out of the way and look into the container. The bottom is bare. There's no substrate at all. The plant's resting on its root ball. I did place a large air stone on the bottom of the container. The bubbles agitate the surface and the plant roots take in the oxygen that's mixed into the tank water. I feed the fish a balanced diet and they provide the minerals the plant needs. This plant is considerably larger than the same variety I've seen in some offices.

Old

 

Hello again FL...

Here's an 18 gallon plastic container tank with roughly 50 Fancy Guppies. The plant is an Aglaonema house plant that I immersed in the tank a while back. This tank has never needed a water change and there's a very small bacteria colony that works at night to keep the water clean, while the plant rests. I feed the fish a little a couple of times a day. The fish do their business in the water, it dissolves and the plant removes the waste. Of course, the plant receives nutrients all day, so it gets much larger than a normal house plant that is watered and fertilized just once a week. There's no trace of ammonia or nitrite in the tank water and the nitrates don't register on a testing strip.

Old

Wow

 

Love it but I would have to transfer all of it to a clear tote so I could see the fish

 

You do not need to do water changes if you balance your tank with enough plants to keep the nitrates down(asuming its cycled)

 

You do not need to do water changes if you balance your tank with enough plants to keep the nitrates down(asuming its cycled)

Hello ker...

This is true to a point. If you use this type of house plant, you could do away with water changes. It grows very large with a root system large enough to use all the nitrogen the fish produce. I don't know of any aquatic plants that would grow large enough to filter out all the nitrogen in a really large fish tank. The Aglaonema does.

Old

 

This is actually I question I was going to ask at some point. Do we over do water changes if nitrate levels are stable. Many people insist that water changes are required not just to control nitrate but refresh minerals in the tank. I guess from peer pressure I do water changes once a week or so and measure nitrate once every 4 or 5 weeks now but I keep thinking I do more harm than good to do water changes. All of my tanks are planted but they have standard shop substrate. The tank that does the best (as always) is the guppy tank. It has very low algae and solid plant growth without co2. The tank with co2 swings back and forth with hair algae (I think when I trimmed all the vals and threw out most of the hornworth I triggered some imbalance that needs to be re-established - in case you ask this was to allow light to reach the bottom and after the cutting the sword plants on the bottom took off).
-
But if I suddenly stop or reduce water changes how can I tell if things are going to fall apart before they fall apart (this is sort of the fear - now that I have a routine will a sudden change upset the balance).
-
I noted above the guppy tank seems to have the best balance with regards to plant growth and algae but it is also the most over populated because well - guppies are guppies...

 

So cool, I think self sustaining, natural ecosystems make some of the coolest tanks

 

This is actually I question I was going to ask at some point. Do we over do water changes if nitrate levels are stable. Many people insist that water changes are required not just to control nitrate but refresh minerals in the tank. I guess from peer pressure I do water changes once a week or so and measure nitrate once every 4 or 5 weeks now but I keep thinking I do more harm than good to do water changes. All of my tanks are planted but they have standard shop substrate. The tank that does the best (as always) is the guppy tank. It has very low algae and solid plant growth without co2. The tank with co2 swings back and forth with hair algae (I think when I trimmed all the vals and through out most of the hornworth I triggered some imbalance that needs to be re-established - in case you ask this was to allow light to reach the bottom and after the cutting the sword plants on the bottom took off).
-
But if I suddenly stop or reduce water changes how can I tell if things are going to fall apart before they fall apart (this is sort of the fear - now that I have a routine will a sudden change upset the balance).
-
I noted above the guppy tank seems to have the best balance with regards to plant growth and algae but it is also the most over populated because well - guppies are guppies...

IMHO and my about 3 years in this hobby and being on this forum is most folks that do weekly WC's rarely if ever make threads about ill fish etc...weather they are over under or perfectly stocked ( which seems to be rare ) With that bein said I have always done my usual 50-75% WC's weekly cause I do believe it does add the things we don't test for back into the water. As an example in an established tank right after a WC how much more active and alive looking are your fish? Yes they may get a little stressed from the siphon and hands in the tank and things being moved around but say an hour or 2 later everyone seems extremely happy in my tanks anyways. Aside from my 29 with my Tiger barbs, I think I could feed them frozen bloodworms "while" doin a WC and they could care less ... Just my thoughts and .02 for what its worth.

 

IMHO and my about 3 years in this hobby and being on this forum is most folks that do weekly WC's rarely if ever make threads about ill fish etc...weather they are over under or perfectly stocked ( which seems to be rare ) With that bein said I have always done my usual 50-75% WC's weekly cause I do believe it does add the things we don't test for back into the water. As an example in an established tank right after a WC how much more active and alive looking are your fish? Yes they may get a little stressed from the siphon and hands in the tank and things being moved around but say an hour or 2 later everyone seems extremely happy in my tanks anyways. Aside from my 29 with my Tiger barbs, I think I could feed them frozen bloodworms "while" doin a WC and they could care less ... Just my thoughts and .02 for what its worth.

My fish used to die frequently until I stopped the frequent water changes and figured out how to manage an ecosystem. My tap sucks so now bacteria and plants do the work- keep parameters stable and mortality has stopped.

 

So two conflicting views and mattgirl agree with both ! Hum. So I guess this means no one knows for sure ? Or perhaps do what works best for you ?

 

This is actually I question I was going to ask at some point. Do we over do water changes if nitrate levels are stable. Many people insist that water changes are required not just to control nitrate but refresh minerals in the tank. I guess from peer pressure I do water changes once a week or so and measure nitrate once every 4 or 5 weeks now but I keep thinking I do more harm than good to do water changes. All of my tanks are planted but they have standard shop substrate. The tank that does the best (as always) is the guppy tank. It has very low algae and solid plant growth without co2. The tank with co2 swings back and forth with hair algae (I think when I trimmed all the vals and through out most of the hornworth I triggered some imbalance that needs to be re-established - in case you ask this was to allow light to reach the bottom and after the cutting the sword plants on the bottom took off).
-
But if I suddenly stop or reduce water changes how can I tell if things are going to fall apart before they fall apart (this is sort of the fear - now that I have a routine will a sudden change upset the balance).
-
I noted above the guppy tank seems to have the best balance with regards to plant growth and algae but it is also the most over populated because well - guppies are guppies...

Hello jake...

I've never heard of fish having a problem with too much clean water. It's always the other way around. They suffer from water that's not clean enough. As soon as water comes out of the tap, the minerals are starting to change due to contact with oxygen in the air. The longer the same, old water stays in the tank and in contact with oxygen, the more the minerals change. This affects the water chemistry and changes in the water affect the fishes' health. So, by removing and replacing most of the water weekly, your fish always have healthy mineral levels and as we know water changes remove dissolved fish waste.

Old

 

With no water changes how do you address the buildup of trace minerals that come from just doing top-offs?

 

Hello ker...

This is true to a point. If you use this type of house plant, you could do away with water changes. It grows very large with a root system large enough to use all the nitrogen the fish produce. I don't know of any aquatic plants that would grow large enough to filter out all the nitrogen in a really large fish tank. The Aglaonema does.

Old

I have a small heavily planted modestly stocked tank that never accumulates nitrates, so I dose them in with fertilizer. So I'm sure you can...but I've never let it run more than a couple weeks without changing the water.

 

So two conflicting views and mattgirl agree with both ! Hum. So I guess this means no one knows for sure ? Or perhaps do what works best for you ?

I think it depends on your tap water quality ( mine is full of ammonia at fish killing levels) and preferred method. Most people who are loudly vocal on here prefer frequent water changes. and it depends if your tank is designed to act as a natural water treatment system that an handle nitrates (like op’s) or not. There are lots of methods that work. Open (modern with lots of water changes) and mostly-closed systems (old style infrequent wc with eco- balance involving denitrifying bacteria plants or both) are possible. Closed system depletion’s can be dealt with by ferts and fish food but do accumulate dissolved solids after a while (my 25g goes for 1.5 yrs w/o water change and 0 fish mortality) and eventually they do need a water change but tank starts looking bad before it’s a real problem for most fish if you have eco balance. You know how on here people always say how in the old days fish lasted longer? They blame fish stocks but I think it’s because people had more stable mostly closed systems with denitrifying bacteria back then even if not intentional. Plus the discovery of chloramines for tap which work best with lots of added ammonia.

 

You do not need to do water changes if you balance your tank with enough plants to keep the nitrates down(asuming its cycled)

Just because you can doesn't mean you should. Now I'd be interested to see the science behind it, and with a plant removing nitrates you can certainly delay water changes....but I have a hard time believing that the water parameters are staying balanced...and by that I mean trace nutrient depletion as well as accumulation of other dissolved solids.

 

Just because you can doesn't mean you should. Now I'd be interested to see the science behind it, and with a plant removing nitrates you can certainly delay water changes....but I have a hard time believing that the water parameters are staying balanced...and by that I mean trace nutrient depletion as well as accumulation of other dissolved solids.

Just because you like your method doesn’t mean other methods can’t work. Marine tanks are also mostly closed systems. If you want to know the science Read about biogeochemistry and denitrification and the natural nitrate levels in ponds and lakes- 0! How? Nature! Fish food and Top offs can keep minerals going.. Large tanks eventually need a reduction of solids but plants can remove a lot. Chinese evergreen work great.

 

Just because you like your method doesn’t mean other methods can’t work. Marine tanks are also mostly closed systems. If you want to know the science Read about biogeochemistry and denitrification and the natural nitrate levels in ponds and lakes- 0! How? Nature! Fish food and Top offs can keep minerals going.. Large tanks eventually need a reduction of solids but plants can remove a lot. Chinese evergreen work great.

Just to play devil's advocate: ponds and lakes have constant water changes through moving water/rainwater etc. It isn't 100% a closed system

 

Good info Oldsalt!

 

So two conflicting views and mattgirl agree with both ! Hum. So I guess this means no one knows for sure ? Or perhaps do what works best for you ?

You have to read the fine print. rainbowsprinkles has problem water so has to work around that. kallililly1973 's water is fine so there is that. I agree with doing what works best in each situation. One size doesn't fit all when it comes to our individual source water.

BTW: I didn't agree with the no water change Post. I liked it.

The one thing I will always recommend above all else though is Water changes are the one most important thing one can do for their fish. oldsalt777 is showing us how a tank filtered with a massive plant can thrive without water changes but normally his advice is changing out half the water in a tank each week.

 

Back in the 90's when I had a tank that went 4 years without a water change. Everything seemed fine until one day I cleaned the filter and disaster struck. Mind you back then I didn't do water changes simply because I didn't know better - I didn't measure chemistry or anything. I think the tank was around 70 gallons (it was a home made thing that I purchased used) - I don't remember the complete stocking but I had a pair of angels and some cardinals as well as a lovely whiptail catfish and a pair of very bold clown loaches (the ones I have now have grown 3x faster in 6 months but they spend all day hiding so they are no fun - I have 5). Now I 'know' better and measure chemistry and do water changes weekly but i'm not sure the fishes are any healthier. I have no clue if the water I used back in the 90's was any good but it was boulder, co so my guess is that it was fairly pure.

 

Back in the 90's when I had a tank that went 4 years without a water change. Everything seemed fine until one day I cleaned the filter and disaster struck.

I think this is one of the main problems with going the no water change route. All goes along really well until one thing changes and then the whole house of cards come tumbling down. I truly do believe one is teetering on the edge of disaster when no water changes are done.

I got serious about fish back in the very early 80's. So about 40 years ago. I had kept various fish before that but never got serious about it. This was before we had information at our fingertips. I had a leaflet that gave me the basics. It stressed above all else the importance of fresh clean water. I have stuck with that piece of advice through all these years. The only thing I tested for was my PH level and ammonia. I only did that until I no longer got an ammonia reading. Even way back then I understood what had to happen to keep fish healthy in our glass homes for them. I didn't know back then that it had a name (nitrogen cycle). I just knew it had to grow enough bacteria to keep the ammonia from building up.

I think I can owe the fact that I've never had an outbreak of any of the many diseases we see here so often to the fact that I do big water changes every week.

 

You are making an argument to support your perspective but it is based off of false data. Back then I didn't know about 'bacteria' or 'nitrate'. A filter was a filter because it filtered (remove junk). So one day when it was really dirty I cleaned it - really cleaned it - till it was spotless like new. That's why there was a diaster. It wasn't that things were on edge it was because of lack of knowledge about bacteria and nitrate cycle. I have no clue if things were well balanced or not because water chemistry was never measured. Nitrate might have been 5ppm or 500ppm. All I knew is that the fishes never died and the filter was really dirty and needed to be cleaned.

I think this is one of the main problems with going the no water change route. All goes along really well until one thing changes and then the whole house of cards come tumbling down. I truly do believe one is teetering on the edge of disaster when no water changes are done.

 

You are making an argument to support your perspective but it is based off of false data. Back then I didn't know about 'bacteria' or 'nitrate'. A filter was a filter because it filtered (remove junk). So one day when it was really dirty I cleaned it - really cleaned it - till it was spotless like new. That's why there was a diaster. It wasn't that things were on edge it was because of lack of knowledge about bacteria and nitrate cycle. I have no clue if things were well balanced or not because water chemistry was never measured. Nitrate might have been 5ppm or 500ppm. All I knew is that the fishes never died and the filter was really dirty and needed to be cleaned.

Fair enough. Way back when, I actually took my filter cartridges to the kitchen sink and cleaned them with hot water straight from the tap. Thankfully doing so never crashed my cycle. I have to think it is because bacteria grows on every surface in our tanks and quickly recolonizes the media.

It is impossible to know for sure why your system crashed. Just cleaning the filter shouldn't have caused it.

 

Just to play devil's advocate: ponds and lakes have constant water changes through moving water/rainwater etc. It isn't 100% a closed system

Hello cm...

To keep fish healthy, a system must provide a constant source of nitrogen free water and oxygen. The oxygen is provided by the air stone. The water must contain the minerals the fish need for good health. By immersing the roots of a large plant that can live in water, the root system takes in all forms of dissolved nitrogen from the dissolving fish waste material, so there's never a toxic build up. The fish, given a varied diet produce the minerals the plant needs in the fish waste material. The system is identical to a river environment.

Old

 

Hello cm...

To keep fish healthy, a system must provide a constant source of nitrogen free water and oxygen. The oxygen is provided by the air stone. The water must contain the minerals the fish need for good health. By immersing the roots of a large plant that can live in water, the root system takes in all forms of dissolved nitrogen from the dissolving fish waste material, so there's never a toxic build up. The fish, given a varied diet produce the minerals the plant needs in the fish waste material. The system is identical to a river environment.

Old

I understand all that, but don't think I agree with the last sentence. I was addressing the pond and lake comparison. These systems have continual water "changes." I am not sure there is a completely closed system on earth.

As far as your situation:
I am pretty much a complete beginner. I started doing research on keeping aquariums around half a year ago and have just started my first tank; so my comments are definitely not fact.

I have a dirted, heavily planted, no filter tank that currently has zero readings of ammonia, nitrites and nitrates. My initial plan was to do zero water changes as I had a good handle on the biological and chemical processes. Like you, I thought zero water changes could be done. Water changes are in place to balance the aquarium and make sure that the nitrates don't get to a deadly level.
Now plants and beneficial bacteria can use the No2 No3. The thought being that you must maintain growing plants. Growing plants will take in the No3 at higher levels, plants that remain stagnate will take in NO3 at lower levels.
So obviously you have protein entering the tank something has to give right? You need an output of that closed system as everyone agrees on, otherwise you will have a buildup of nitrates which is deadly. The output is actually plants instead of the water; with the removal of some plant growth to keep them growing. (Your case is a little different as you have a sole out of water plant, but same thoughts come into play.) As long as your plant keeps growing you will theoretically be fine. However, if this plant of yours dies or stalls its growth, then the nitrate absorption will be effected, which might cause issues.

This made sense to me: Add protein via fish food, the plants and bacteria will soak up the nitrites and nitrates and you won't have any harmful compounds in your tank.

However, what I have come to believe through extensive research and testimonials from other far more experienced aquarium keepers is that I overlooked one aspect. The build-up of trace minerals. If you keep topping off the aquarium rather than exchanging the water through water changes, then the elements that don't get used by the fish/plants/bacteria will build up. A significant buildup of any trace elements will cause issues in the tank. These might not come into play for many years. So a tank might look as though it is thriving for many years until it doesn't anymore. By the time the trace elements build-up to a significant level you can't really do a significant water change as that will probably shock the fish. (via the extreme water difference) Not to mention that it would be impossible to detect.

Just my thoughts and research; and not intended as anything above that such as scientific proof.

 

With no water changes how do you address the buildup of trace minerals that come from just doing top-offs?

Hello cm...

Well, you fill the tank to the top in the beginning. But, the water in the tank will evaporate. The best means of replenishing the water is to do top offs using distilled water. The cost isn't much more than 90 cents a gallon. By using distilled water, there are no minerals going into the tank. So, there's never a build up to affect the water chemistry.

Old

 

Hello cm...

Well, you fill the tank to the top in the beginning. But, the water in the tank will evaporate. The best means of replenishing the water is to do top offs using distilled water. The cost isn't much more than 90 cents a gallon. By using distilled water, there are no minerals going into the tank. So, there's never a build up to affect the water chemistry.

Old

Ah, I didn't see that you were using distilled water to replace the effects of evaporation. So if I may redirect my question:

Since you are replenishing with water that contains zero (or virtually zero) minerals, how do you ensure that the plants and inhabitants of the tank receives the minerals and micronutrients necessary for their health? As stated previously fish and plants need minerals and microminerals to thrive and use a wide variety of them. (Iron, Copper, Chromium, Iodine, Manganese, Zinc, Selenium, Calcium, Sodium, Chloride, Potassium, Chloride, Sulfur, Phosphorus, Boron, Molybdenum etc.)
Are you supposing that the diet provides all that is necessary for the fish?

 

Just to play devil's advocate: ponds and lakes have constant water changes through moving water/rainwater etc. It isn't 100% a closed system

Not water changes like an aquarium that gets weekly or biweekly 50% water changes.. Low water change aquaria aren't truly closed systems either- water top ups, food addition, ferts etc. plant removal.

I understand all that, but don't think I agree with the last sentence. I was addressing the pond and lake comparison. These systems have continual water "changes." I am not sure there is a completely closed system on earth.

As far as your situation:
I am pretty much a complete beginner. I started doing research on keeping aquariums around half a year ago and have just started my first tank; so my comments are definitely not fact.

I have a dirted, heavily planted, no filter tank that currently has zero readings of ammonia, nitrites and nitrates. My initial plan was to do zero water changes as I had a good handle on the biological and chemical processes. Like you, I thought zero water changes could be done. Water changes are in place to balance the aquarium and make sure that the nitrates don't get to a deadly level.
Now plants and beneficial bacteria can use the No2 No3. The thought being that you must maintain growing plants. Growing plants will take in the No3 at higher levels, plants that remain stagnate will take in NO3 at lower levels.
So obviously you have protein entering the tank something has to give right? You need an output of that closed system as everyone agrees on, otherwise you will have a buildup of nitrates which is deadly. The output is actually plants instead of the water; with the removal of some plant growth to keep them growing. (Your case is a little different as you have a sole out of water plant, but same thoughts come into play.) As long as your plant keeps growing you will theoretically be fine. However, if this plant of yours dies or stalls its growth, then the nitrate absorption will be effected, which might cause issues.

This made sense to me: Add protein via fish food, the plants and bacteria will soak up the nitrites and nitrates and you won't have any harmful compounds in your tank.

However, what I have come to believe through extensive research and testimonials from other far more experienced aquarium keepers is that I overlooked one aspect. The build-up of trace minerals. If you keep topping off the aquarium rather than exchanging the water through water changes, then the elements that don't get used by the fish/plants/bacteria will build up. A significant buildup of any trace elements will cause issues in the tank. These might not come into play for many years. So a tank might look as though it is thriving for many years until it doesn't anymore. By the time the trace elements build-up to a significant level you can't really do a significant water change as that will probably shock the fish. (via the extreme water difference) Not to mention that it would be impossible to detect.

Just my thoughts and research; and not intended as anything above that such as scientific proof.

I agree with this. eventually, things will accumulate. and depending on the organisms present, what you feed them, how big the tank is, your substrate, and your water supply, it could be weeks or it could be years. but you can tell because the tank looks like before its a real problem.

 

Ah, I didn't see that you were using distilled water to replace the effects of evaporation. So if I may redirect my question:

Since you are replenishing with water that contains zero (or virtually zero) minerals, how do you ensure that the plants and inhabitants of the tank receives the minerals and micronutrients necessary for their health? As stated previously fish and plants need minerals and microminerals to thrive and use a wide variety of them. (Iron, Copper, Chromium, Iodine, Manganese, Zinc, Selenium, Calcium, Sodium, Chloride, Potassium, Chloride, Sulfur, Phosphorus, Boron, Molybdenum etc.)
Are you supposing that the diet provides all that is necessary for the fish?

Good question. If you study the ingredients on some of the higher end fish foods, from flakes to freeze dried and frozen, you can give the fish the minerals they need. The plants are going to need a similar list of those nutrients. The fish will provide those through their dissolving waste material.

Old

 

It's really cool that your tank supports everything so well, I wish I didn't have to do water changes!!

I think that everybody here wishes that they didn't have to do pwcs.

 

How do you keep your TDS lower? Plants don't remove all the dissolved solids and other things building up, so how do you control those? I'm guessing you don't worry about fish hormones...

Btw, that houseplant is impressive!

 

I don't want to take this interesting discussion to semantics but it was initially said:

If you want to know the science Read about biogeochemistry and denitrification and the natural nitrate levels in ponds and lakes- 0! How?

I merely wanted to point out that there is natural water changes that happen in these systems through rain, water movement, ground absorption, run off etc.

Not water changes like an aquarium that gets weekly or biweekly 50% water changes.. Low water change aquaria aren't truly closed systems either- water top ups, food addition, ferts etc. plant removal.

Obviously water changes are different than that which occurs in nature; but that is the best way we have (cheapest?) to replicate the water changes that actual do happen in nature. We actually are just trying to replicate natural processes with our limited resources. If you are arguing that it is different due to the regularity (50% every week etc.), then I would like to mention that this is just a human creation for ease of completion.

 

How do you keep your TDS lower? Plants don't remove all the dissolved solids and other things building up, so how do you control those? I'm guessing you don't worry about fish hormones...

HI angel...

My understanding of TDS is everything organic that's produced by water, plants and fish. There are no commercial chemicals put into the water. So, there are no medications, chlorine, chloramine, water conditioners or anything else. Everything that dissolves in the water is totally organic. The roots of the plant maintain safe mineral and bicarbonate levels. As long as the fish are fed a varied diet, they'll give the plant all it needs to be healthy and growing. The plant keeps the nitrogen out of the water, so the fish stay healthy.

Old

 

I think that everybody here wishes that they didn't have to do pwcs.

I actually enjoy providing my fish with fresh water, they are just so happy after a good water change and they've often spawned right after our even before I get the water filled again.

HI angel...

My understanding of TDS is everything organic that's produced by water, plants and fish. There are no commercial chemicals put into the water. So, there are no medications, chlorine, chloramine, water conditioners or anything else. Everything that dissolves in the water is totally organic. The roots of the plant maintain safe the mineral, bicarbonate levels. As long as the fish are fed a varied diet, they'll give the plant all it needs to be healthy and growing. The plant keeps the nitrogen out of the water, so the fish stay healthy.

Old

Thanks Old. I don't know exactly what organic matter would build up that the plant doesn't use, but the plant would only use whatever it needs to grow. Or should I say grow as fast as it receives light and certain fundamental minerals and such. But how do you match the amount of nutrients in the fish food to accommodate the plant. Or what about the stuff the plant doesn't intake as much? Wouldn't that continue to build up?

Also, i'm thinking about KH depletion. Do you add baking soda or something to buffer KH and GH? What do you mean the plant roots maintain bi-carbonate? Do you mean use up and not provide?

 

I actually enjoy providing my fish with fresh water, they are just so happy after a good water change and they've often spawned right after our even before I get the water filled again.

I enjoy sticking my hand in the water but not filling it up. It stresses my fish out. Like a lot.
Before you even filler it up all of the way! wow. that is very unusual.

 

I enjoy sticking my hand in the water but not filling it up. It stresses my fish out. Like a lot.
Before you even filler it up all od the way! wow. that is very unusual.

My fish are so used to water changes, they don't bat an eye anymore. Not sure how unusual that is actually.....

Seriously it's happened many times with my cichlids and even my lemon tetras! Even in a smaller breeder tank.

Maybe you could try breaking the dump in of new water with your other hand? Personally my fish like to play in the bubbles of the influx of new water. I keep thinking the bubbles rising must feel good on the skin

 

I actually enjoy providing my fish with fresh water, they are just so happy after a good water change and they've often spawned right after our even before I get the water filled again.

So do I. I never dread doing water changes. I am sure if my fish could talk they would thank me for doing it for them The fish in my main tank are very used to me messin' with their tank. I know I have to be very careful when doing them because my fish swim all around the siphon. Occasionally one gets a bit to close and I have to stop and let the little one out. I actually had a cory lay eggs on the siphon tube during one water change