I use baking soda, and several other minerals to raise my
kH at water changes. I actually use them to increase my GH, kH,
pH,
calcium content,
magnesium and
potassium.
An unfortunate side effect of baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) is the change in specific gravity/
salinity. I don't actually use it as an ingredient in most of my tanks but it does go into my Tanganyika buffer recipe.
Not all of the sacrificial buffers like crushed coral, limestone, shells, bones etc will dissolve once you get over certain levels of pH, they all have a target pH where they will stop dissolving. Crushed coral is ok to 7.4-7.8, but not much above that. When you're aiming for 8.9-9.2 (Tanganyika) you have to get creative.
In my soft water tanks, I stay at or under 7.4, the water I start out with is extremely soft so I buffer it to stop it from crashing. I can dial the exact pH after dilution while I mix stock solution giving those tanks the flexibility to simulate seasonal rain changes and stimulate breeding, I can also deplete the tanks to get them way down into tetra breeding numbers, then bring the hardness back on to keep the inverts happy.
My advice to anyone about "baking soda" is to really really dive deep. With a handful of chemicals/minerals and research you can mimic the water from any system you want. If you grab the easy version of "X tablespoons baking soda into X gallons should do it" you're on a crash course to tank crash.
As far as how long it will last per dose; what in your tank is using up your carbonate buffers? Lots of waste conversion, lots of plant growth, lots of fish growth, and many other factors change that outcome. Every tank and water source is different. Sodium bicarbonate shouldn't off gas so in a control tank without growth etc, it shouldn't fall unless it precipitates.