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I'm want a canister filter for my 36 gallon tank but I'm unsure if it's better than a HOB filter. Opinion?
Opinion on Canister filters
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My opinion. . . For a 36 gallon tank, I’d go with a HOB filter or a couple sponge filters.
A few years ago I switched out a Marineland canister for 2 AquaClear 110 HOBs on my 75 gallon. The HOBs provide better filtration and are much easier to clean than the canister IMO.
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I'm with others on this one. Canister filters have always been better in my experience--especially if you get a good brand. I really like Fluval, Eheim, and Oase filters.
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I had one a long time ago and disliked servicing it. Also, it wasn't always quiet. Looking at the mechanics I believe they are more likely to leak than other options too. They do seem to be a good option on really large tanks though. Really it just depends on the tank and the preference of the person setting it up and working with it.
I am in the group of canister filter lovers.
Additionally I have an inline heater, even less clutter in the tank.
Is it hard to clean? The first couple of times it was cumbersome to take it apart. Now it is routine.
I had a 306 Fluval on my 55gl, depending on the fish you may get away with a 207 on your size tank. It depends on the fish you plan to have.
Additionally I have an inline heater, even less clutter in the tank.
Is it hard to clean? The first couple of times it was cumbersome to take it apart. Now it is routine.
I had a 306 Fluval on my 55gl, depending on the fish you may get away with a 207 on your size tank. It depends on the fish you plan to have.
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Nope! Nothing good about canisters. They leak they’re
hard to clean and people tend to put off cleaning and then have problems. By filling them with media you greatly slow down the flow. Oh and they leak it’s pretty much unavoidable.
An hob for anything under 90g. A sump or wet/dry for anything bigger. On my 36 I’m using a tidal 55. Works great flow is steady and it holds lots of media.
hard to clean and people tend to put off cleaning and then have problems. By filling them with media you greatly slow down the flow. Oh and they leak it’s pretty much unavoidable.An hob for anything under 90g. A sump or wet/dry for anything bigger. On my 36 I’m using a tidal 55. Works great flow is steady and it holds lots of media.
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They leak after how long? Mine have never leaked in over 2 years and they are "cheap" Chinese ones (Boyu / JAD). Perhaps they will leak eventually....There is room for plenty of material without having to overfill them, the flow is very good. The only slight issue for me is undoing the clasps to open them, they are very stiff I have to get my husband or son to do it.
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Originally started my "Wet Pet" journey using HOBs. As time went on I was curious about canister filters. After some research and opinions I found this a very debated subject. Pros and cons for each type. Especially the cost, of course more $'s for the canisters. I decided to buy one, I went with an Eheim.
As mentioned it is a bit more involved as far as initial placement/setup of the hoses and the first few times maintenance was a bit of a learning experience. Now I have them on all my tanks 20g and larger, along with sponge filters, just a personal choice. I still have HOBs and use them primarily as water polishers.
Good Luck!
As mentioned it is a bit more involved as far as initial placement/setup of the hoses and the first few times maintenance was a bit of a learning experience. Now I have them on all my tanks 20g and larger, along with sponge filters, just a personal choice. I still have HOBs and use them primarily as water polishers.
Good Luck!
I’ve had my canisters since 05, they will leak if you never service them, one of the main reasons I love them is you only have to open them a few times a year and it takes approximately 15 minutes to clean.
They hold more media than any hob can and filter the water better, most hobs have water bypass.
that being said I use hobs up to 20g
Canisters are better in my bigger tanks.
They hold more media than any hob can and filter the water better, most hobs have water bypass.
that being said I use hobs up to 20g
Canisters are better in my bigger tanks.
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I’ve used many canisters over the years. Most say they are better because less maintenance. That there is one of there problems. If your only cleaning it a few times a year don’t you think muck is building up in it and your flow is decreasing? Most never check. I’ve used the cheap Chinese ones and yes they’ve leaked the smaller ones at the hose connection and the larger ones at the gasket in the middle of the canister. Lost a lot of water because of power outages. It only leaked at a power outage. I now have an fx6 running for 2 years. The flow has dramatically slowed. I’ve removed most of the center media and it ran better but after 2 months the flow had reduced again. I cleaned it and it’s wasn’t that dirty. Just the center sponge at the top was dirty. This is a canister that fluval advertises to use on up to 400g tanks. A flow rate of 700+gph. Yet many are using 2 on 125s. If you set up a sump and buy a motor that moves 1000gph it’s going to move 1000gph. Seems like a better set up. For hobs I always buy bigger and have yet to have a problem. I clean them every other week.
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I won’t go back to HOB’s. Switched to canisters 25+ years ago. Quieter, out of sight, can place tank closer to wall and can get better circulation and filtration with endless outlet placement and media options. Also, can have tight fitting lids to minimise evaporation and escapes. Never yet had one leak.
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Actually I am sure a sump setup would ideally be better for my biggest tank (around 220 gallons), but as I already had two canister filters (and we didn't fancy drilling the tank) I am using those with no problems so far, I still have a good flow. I did clean them fairly recently (not both at the same time), but the tank has only been running about 6 months so time will tell. These canisters were working on other tanks before. Actually for my two smaller tanks I no longer use canisters (because I took them for the big tank), but if someone gave me more canisters I would use them! For those tanks I have top filters, they fit along the top back of the tank so don't take up any space behind the tank. They hold quite a lot of material. They need cleaning more frequently than the canisters but I use a sponge pre-filter on the intake which helps. My 152 gallon tank has one canister and one top filter occupying half of the back operated by a separate pump. I have had zero problems with the canisters so far, we have had several power outages too!
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The Primary reason I wante A canister was for better filtration, is there any side affect of filter a 36 with two filters(made for 35 gallon tanks)? I know you cant really overfilter a tank but I dont want to over oxygenate or cause an excessive amount of surface movment.
Do you reccomend any specific brand? I dont particulary want to spend lots of money on a canister filter but I know name brands like fluval can get pricey.
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Until fairly recently I’ve used mainly Fluval and Eheim canisters. I started with Eheim Classics and still have one of them. There were not many alternatives on the market back then. They are still available. A bit cheaper than Fluval but with basic functionality. I haven’t tried any of the really cheap Chinese ones that are available now. There is a mid priced brand available here in Australia called Aqua One which I tried recently. So far so good.
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I'm with the HOB camp. I have 1 canister filter that Ive tried to set up multiple times and every time, it ends up leaking. It's sitting in my basement now because I can't stomach throwing it away because they're so expensive.
But my Marinelands have never let me down. They're cheap, reliable, and none of mine have ever been loud like many claim after initial setup and lubrication establishment with tank biofilm.
All I hear is the water trickle sound, which I love! People pay a lot of money for waterfall decorations that make that sound. A tank with no trickle to me is a silent threat because it reminds me of the leaky canister that emptied a bunch of water on my hardwood floors.
But my Marinelands have never let me down. They're cheap, reliable, and none of mine have ever been loud like many claim after initial setup and lubrication establishment with tank biofilm.
All I hear is the water trickle sound, which I love! People pay a lot of money for waterfall decorations that make that sound. A tank with no trickle to me is a silent threat because it reminds me of the leaky canister that emptied a bunch of water on my hardwood floors.
For a 40 i started with a hob but the flow created problems so i moved to an eheim 2217 and the it worked a lot better with the spray bar.
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For the 120 i use a couple of canister filters - an old 2217 and an fx6.
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for the 400's i'm setting up next year I'll go with sump - hopefully easier to clean than the annoying canister filters and pumps will push a more sustained flow.
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For any new tank less than 100 gallons these days I go with corner matten filters (large sponges). The negative is that they take up space in the tank and are a bit annoying to clean; the positive is that they only have to be cleaned once or twice a year and are durable/cheap with a more predictable flow.
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Not sure there is any correct answer here.
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In terms of ease to clean the hob is the easiest. Haven't messed with a sump so the verdict is still out.
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For the 120 i use a couple of canister filters - an old 2217 and an fx6.
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for the 400's i'm setting up next year I'll go with sump - hopefully easier to clean than the annoying canister filters and pumps will push a more sustained flow.
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For any new tank less than 100 gallons these days I go with corner matten filters (large sponges). The negative is that they take up space in the tank and are a bit annoying to clean; the positive is that they only have to be cleaned once or twice a year and are durable/cheap with a more predictable flow.
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Not sure there is any correct answer here.
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In terms of ease to clean the hob is the easiest. Haven't messed with a sump so the verdict is still out.
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Canister filter defiantly over HOB, HOB is ok on smaller tanks like 10 20 gal etc. but you can't beat canister filters IMO. Some people think canisters are harder to clean, and that might be true but i think they're the best filters for tanks as you can put any kind of media in them to suit what you want.They last a long time also from what I've known. I still have a Fluval 303 that's still running on my 65-gallon tank now for over 23 years now and still pretty much working as the day i got it.Never had any issues with it.also like how you can control the flow on them also and they don't make much noise.
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So interesting reading all these vastly varied opinions! I've used both, and as I'm sure you've gathered - there isn't a proper consensus as to which is better. I've had good and bad experiences with each.
Canister filters:
- Usually able to turn over more water than HOB, better suited for larger tanks
- Out of sight, out of mind
- Quieter than HOB
- A lot of space for filter media, can 100% customize which media you want to use
- On the flip side, excess media can slow down your flow
- I wouldn't say easier to clean, I find them more time consuming than HOB filters personally (definitely going to need pipe cleaning tools to get in those connecting tubes)
- Learning curve when it comes to maintenance and settup
- Longevity if you buy a well manufactured canister
- Can be fairly expensive
HOB Filters:
- A lot in the market, some are cheaply made and it can be hard to sus out which will suit your needs best
- Readily available in stores and online, usually affordable
- On that note, if it breaks down it's not too big of a loss if it's a cheap filter
- Very visible, which can be a turnoff
- Not bulky, not very heavy, can be easily moved or lifted
- Pretty easy to clean and set up
- Customization of filter media, but less space compared with canisters
- Water volume can play a part in the strength of your flow, water evaporation will slow down your filter so your GPH turnover can vary between top ups
- You don't need bells and whistles to filter a tank efficiently, HOBs will get the job done even if they aren't particularly 'advanced' compared to other methods of filtration
Canister filters:
- Usually able to turn over more water than HOB, better suited for larger tanks
- Out of sight, out of mind
- Quieter than HOB
- A lot of space for filter media, can 100% customize which media you want to use
- On the flip side, excess media can slow down your flow
- I wouldn't say easier to clean, I find them more time consuming than HOB filters personally (definitely going to need pipe cleaning tools to get in those connecting tubes)
- Learning curve when it comes to maintenance and settup
- Longevity if you buy a well manufactured canister
- Can be fairly expensive
HOB Filters:
- A lot in the market, some are cheaply made and it can be hard to sus out which will suit your needs best
- Readily available in stores and online, usually affordable
- On that note, if it breaks down it's not too big of a loss if it's a cheap filter
- Very visible, which can be a turnoff
- Not bulky, not very heavy, can be easily moved or lifted
- Pretty easy to clean and set up
- Customization of filter media, but less space compared with canisters
- Water volume can play a part in the strength of your flow, water evaporation will slow down your filter so your GPH turnover can vary between top ups
- You don't need bells and whistles to filter a tank efficiently, HOBs will get the job done even if they aren't particularly 'advanced' compared to other methods of filtration
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You know, I'm honestly surprised at the number of people who've had issues with leaking. I'm sorry that's been an issue for so many of you, thankfully it's never happened to me (fingers crossed it never does haha).
You make a valid point - if your HOB starts leaking it won't be as big of a problem compared with canisters. Thanks for the addition
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My main problem is with HOBS is Ive had the motor starts going bad after a while and its hard to find replacment motors,without fixing the issue the filter makes really loud grinding noises which are A)Annoying and B) I find stress my fish out.Woudnt a Canister run into a similar issue eventually?
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I've had box filters with carbon and floss, I've had undergravel filters, I've had HOB filters I've had HOB fluidized moving bed filter, and I have been most happy with a wet/dry out of those.
I've never done canister filters. It seems overcomplicated, like the fluidized moving bed filter was and you can't see if it needs to be cleaned unless you shut down and open them up.
I have a 72 gallon aquarium on a stand with a wet dry filter for the last 20 years. I've changed the pump once since then and the 4 ft flourescent light once since then.
I have the back mounted overflow with a U tube and pre-filter sponge I cut the sponge below the lip of the box so even if I forgot and it gets blocked and backs up it overflows the sponge and down into the wet/dry and not onto the floor. I punched a mall hole as a siphon breaker in the return tube to the tank so if the Power goes out it doesn't back siphon into the wet/dry, I've never had a leak or flood from it. Change the prefilter sponge once a year, clean the prefilter sponge 2x a week, change the filter floss in the wet/dry 1x a month. Easiest filter I've ever had as far as filters go and I'm never going to change it to something else.
For smaller tanks I use sponge filters and as far as that goes, also the easiest. Maybe not asthetically pleasing as far as appearance, but simple, easy and never backflows, floods or fails. Worst case, buy an airpump every 5-10 years.
In my personal opinion I'd put a wet dry on anything 55g and over for it's simplicity of maintenence and reliability and ease of replacing a broken water pump. I have no experience with a sump, but that, that might be where I would go from here if I decided to try something else besides the wet/dry.
I absolutely wouldn't take a step back to more complicated filters.
I've never done canister filters. It seems overcomplicated, like the fluidized moving bed filter was and you can't see if it needs to be cleaned unless you shut down and open them up.
I have a 72 gallon aquarium on a stand with a wet dry filter for the last 20 years. I've changed the pump once since then and the 4 ft flourescent light once since then.
I have the back mounted overflow with a U tube and pre-filter sponge I cut the sponge below the lip of the box so even if I forgot and it gets blocked and backs up it overflows the sponge and down into the wet/dry and not onto the floor. I punched a mall hole as a siphon breaker in the return tube to the tank so if the Power goes out it doesn't back siphon into the wet/dry, I've never had a leak or flood from it. Change the prefilter sponge once a year, clean the prefilter sponge 2x a week, change the filter floss in the wet/dry 1x a month. Easiest filter I've ever had as far as filters go and I'm never going to change it to something else.
For smaller tanks I use sponge filters and as far as that goes, also the easiest. Maybe not asthetically pleasing as far as appearance, but simple, easy and never backflows, floods or fails. Worst case, buy an airpump every 5-10 years.
In my personal opinion I'd put a wet dry on anything 55g and over for it's simplicity of maintenence and reliability and ease of replacing a broken water pump. I have no experience with a sump, but that, that might be where I would go from here if I decided to try something else besides the wet/dry.
I absolutely wouldn't take a step back to more complicated filters.
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Well sumps and wet/drys run like canisters. The cleaning is rinsing sponges at water changes. In the overflow is a course sponge than when the water enters the sump there is a sock (sumps) or a medium sponge(wet/dry). These too need to be cleaned. Than the water goes through you media. This may get rinsed twice a year. Takes time!! Than the water is pumped back into the tank. Now the pump sits in the last section of the filter. So it’s not pulling and pushing water like a canister it’s just pushing clean water back to the tank. Less strain on the motor. Also these motors can be bought dc so they are fully adjustable. Most have a feed button that will shut off the motor for 10min while feeding. Now the dc motor starts up slowly and takes about a min to get to full speed while your standard AC motor comes right on at full speed. This can be a problem if a hose is lose.
Look into dc motors for your wet/drys. I hope you replaced your fluorescent light to led. Both of these are much cheaper to run and longer lasting. Fluorescent bulbs burn for a long time but in a planted tank the par decreases by half in about 6months.
Also when setting up your overflow it is adjustable so that in case of a power outage the water stops flow before your wet/dry fills. So no need to add the siphon hole.
I'm using custom aquarium setup with their sump for the large tanks - for a smaller tank i will use a 29 with sponges - the two 400 I have a hole drilled at the end of the sump for drip water changes. I'll be using led - not sure which model yet - considering a couple - hydra32 or ai prime; wrgb2 pro; I think i've ruled ghl out as being too expensive and not sure i want to use flood lights or led strips (cheaper options but not as configurable).
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The reason I think the sumps will be easier to clean than the canister is you can work on it in segments. With the canister I have to drag it out and take it to the tub to wash the sponges. Well with the fx6 I have to drain it a bit to open and then remove the media - but have a pail next to it (i leave the fx6 in place); with the sump i won't have to remove all the media at once - just compartments - after all the sump is like 8 feet long. Anyway debated a bit between the customer aqarium sump or using a pair of 55. DC motors are my plan mostly for noise reduction.
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I've had the same problem with HOBs in the past, it's very annoying when it occurs and I ended up throwing out the entire filter. Replacement parts for canisters are typically more available than they are for HOBs. I haven't had to look for replacement motors before, but as far as I can tell, pretty much every part of a canister can be readily purchased for replacement.
The most common cause of motor issues in either filter is clogging - if you keep on top of your filter maintenance you hopefully won't have problems with your motor. If the issue is a result of a faulty motor and unrelated to maintenance, the problem will likely occur within the first few years of use - usually within the bounds of a warranty. If not, as I've said, replacement parts are easy to find.
In the past cleaning usually solve the noise problem with hobs. At least with auqaclear little bit of debris can get into the propeller shaft causing the noise. With the canister filter - the fx 6 is loudish but mostly tolerable and that is just the way it is - the eheim 2217 is fairly quite unless air gets trapped at the top.
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I have a 150 sized wetdry on a 72g, it's same size as a 20 gallon tank. so I'd need it to go about 1/3rd of the tank of water before it over flows from there, but it's never been even close to it. I'm just a fan of redundancy covering my bases so that if one thing fails to do what it's supposed to, something else might do what it's supposed to. i've got a small U loop of the hose from the overflow over the wetdry pump section so if that hose leaks somewhere on the majority of it, it runs down the hose and into the wetdry and back into the tank., same principle for plugged in aquarium wires, leave a U loop of the wire below the outlet, so that the water drips off the bottom of the loop and doesn't follow the cord to the outlet.
Maybe overkill, but I've never had the tank flood me.
I don't keep live plants, the light isn't important right now and good enough to keep my rocks healthy. LOL
Also, I've never rinsed my biomedia in the wet/dry, well once when I shut the tank down for about 5 years. Same blue and white biotubes I've had for 20 years and this colony has been running for about 7 years on the tank.
I use a small pore sponge on the prefilter box (I didn't like the larger holed coarse sponge for how much stuff it let through into the wetdry) , and a fine mat polisher in the wet/dry for fine particulate above the biomedia, I don't have particulates going to the biomedia or resting on the bottom of the wet/dry, but the mat will get nasty quick if I let the prefilter sponge in the overflow box get blocked up and the water overflows over it down into the wetdry. and then I'd have particulates reaching my pump and settling in the wet/dry. It's a trade off. small pore prefilter that needs to be cleaned well 2-3x a week that takes maybe 5 minutes, to keep it from being blocked up, or spending more time on cleaning a funky messy wet/dry.
my wet/dry is just for biofiltration and I keep as much of the junk out of there as I can, But it saves me having to do anything more than replace the wet dry mat with another 12"x12" mat once in a while which is a 30 second job. pull it directly into a trash bag, put in new 12"x12" piece of mat, good to go.
The heavy stuff stays in the tank with this style set up and has to be taken out with a gravel vac though, But I do water changes anyways. it's a trade off. I spend my big cleaning time on the tank itself, no time really on the wet/dry, and minimal time on the overflow pre-filter sponge here or there during the week in less than 5 minute shots.
Everyone is different though, everyone has their way of doing things that they like and that works for them.
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I never had a problem with a canister leaking thankfully, although i did have have my cat a while back knock it over from the stand it was on while i was out and came back to a tank being drained on the floor what a mess that was. you could also keep it in a big bucket to keep it more secure just in case.
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I'm running all three on different tank setups. I run two mechanical filters minimum on each tank in case one fails and I'm away.
Love the canisters for the set it and forget it (for a while)
The sumps fantastic, easy maintenance, just swap socks.
The HOBs, two AC 100s, give great water movement and are fairly easy to clean and maintain.
If you buy a standard brand like fluval or eheim, parts are readily available on Amazon.
For additional bio, I add sponges as well but might not work for a show tank, I tens to focus on breeding so water quality over esthetics usually wins.
I think it comes down to size of the tank and how many times an hour you want to turn over the water, each type will do the job as long as they're sized appropriately for the tank volume.
As to the FX series impellers, I had the same issue with noise, initially a cleaning helped but ultimately I bought a maintenance kit and replaced the seal and impeller and got the "like new" flow back.
Love the canisters for the set it and forget it (for a while)
The sumps fantastic, easy maintenance, just swap socks.
The HOBs, two AC 100s, give great water movement and are fairly easy to clean and maintain.
If you buy a standard brand like fluval or eheim, parts are readily available on Amazon.
For additional bio, I add sponges as well but might not work for a show tank, I tens to focus on breeding so water quality over esthetics usually wins.
I think it comes down to size of the tank and how many times an hour you want to turn over the water, each type will do the job as long as they're sized appropriately for the tank volume.
As to the FX series impellers, I had the same issue with noise, initially a cleaning helped but ultimately I bought a maintenance kit and replaced the seal and impeller and got the "like new" flow back.
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I have the FX6, It was around the three year mark when I did the maintenance kit, I have sand substrate so it can be tough on impellers.How old was your unit when you purchased the maintenance kit? Can you link this kit? If it is once every 20 years great; but if you have to replace it once every 6 months seems that would get pricey
https://www.amazon.com/Fluval-Servi...nt&qid=1658413583&sprefix=fx6+,aps,156&sr=8-4
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