Not Following The Api Nitrate Directions

sixtyfour

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Ever notice that the directions for the API nitrate test involve a lot of shaking? Ever wonder what would happen if you ignored those directions? I gave it a shot. Seems like not doing all the shaking results in a test that tells you, you have 0 nitrates when that isn't true.

In this picture the tube on the right was prepared correctly. The tube on the left was shaken the same way you would the ammonia test.



I kind of wish I had a tank with higher nitrates to see how much of a difference that made. I suspect the poorly prepared samples will always read 0.
 

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Not knocking your experiment but a lot of people smack the nitrate bottles against the table which I believe the testing chemicals settle to the bottom so that may be why they want you to shake that specific bottle for so long...
 

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I always smack the bottles hard against the palm of my hand for a good 20-30 seconds. I've even heard of some people throwing the bottles against the wall...
 
Yes, the testing chemicals settle. At one point someone on here wrote to API inquiring about testing bottles that hadn't been used in a few years, but were not expired. The API rep wrote back saying to knock the bottle around and shake it very well before the first use because the chemicals settle.
 
I always smack the bottles hard against the palm of my hand for a good 20-30 seconds. I've even heard of some people throwing the bottles against the wall...
I just shake them. I don't smack, bang, slap or whack the bottle, I just shake it vigorously as the instructions say and you're right, it makes a huge difference, that "following the instructions" lol!
 
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  • #6
What I was wondering was if you don't follow the directions what result do you get? Would it read high, low, or something completely weird. My test suggests it will read low. It might even suggest if you don't agitate the second bottle, and the solution correctly, it will always read 0. This might explain why we see so many beginners saying my nitrates are 0, but my fish are dying.
 

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Ive had the same results. Tested Nitrates on friends tanks just to see, results were none/low so retested with LOTS of shaking and BANG, you have high nitrates.
 
I too get 0 nitrates when I don't shake the bottle.

What I've noticed these last 2 summers is that my API nitrate test bottles have been going bad. The first bottle essentially turns the water a dull orange color rather than yellow and it won't react with Bottle 2. Has this happened to anyone else? The bottle that went bad last year expired in 2020 and my current one has a 2023 expiration date....
 
I too get 0 nitrates when I don't shake the bottle.

What I've noticed these last 2 summers is that my API nitrate test bottles have been going bad. The first bottle essentially turns the water a dull orange color rather than yellow and it won't react with Bottle 2. Has this happened to anyone else? The bottle that went bad last year expired in 2020 and my current one has a 2023 expiration date....
I think it's like a lot of bottled liquids. If they're opened and left open for periods of time, are stored in places where temperatures fluctuate widely (top shelf in hot seasons, bottom shelf or floor in very cold seasons), accidentally cross contaminated with other solutions over time (wrong lid replaced on them, tip touched to water or other chemicals etc.) or left unmoved for months at a time, they will deteriorate sooner than the projected expiration date. I have multiple tanks and so don't really have a problem but I can see how it happens.
 
I just don't use mine. Its easier that way.
Eyeroll. david1978, are you one of those people that doesn't feed your fish so they won't poop too? LOL!
 

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I've struggled extensively with the nitrate bottle in my API such that I purchased an NTL kit instead. I have recently contacted API having had my tap water tested by my water board. I'd had seriously worrying results from both tap and tank. They said more or less the same - not mixed enough. I've swung it, banged it, bounced it on the counter frightening the bejesus out of my poor cat and boogied round the living room doing the Time Warp (thankfully no film footage survives) to mix the blessed thing with the same result. One major difference I've found is that the NTL bottle is opaque so you can see the sediment and judge if another rumba is needed.
 
Eyeroll. david1978, are you one of those people that doesn't feed your fish so they won't poop too? LOL!
You have to feed fish? But seriously once you get a system down what's the point of testing? I finally bought a kit 2 years ago because I was setting up an off the normal tank. But I went 20 years without one before that.
 
I know what you mean. It's what we seem to be doing now but it's frustrating when things seem to be complicated by testing reagents that are unnecessarily difficult to manage
 
I've struggled extensively with the nitrate bottle in my API such that I purchased an NTL kit instead. I have recently contacted API having had my tap water tested by my water board. I'd had seriously worrying results from both tap and tank. They said more or less the same - not mixed enough. I've swung it, banged it, bounced it on the counter frightening the bejesus out of my poor cat and boogied round the living room doing the Time Warp (thankfully no film footage survives) to mix the blessed thing with the same result. One major difference I've found is that the NTL bottle is opaque so you can see the sediment and judge if another rumba is needed.

API uses nitrate units.

Water company and FDA use nitrate-nitrogen. The legal limit for nitrate in drinking water is 44.3 nitrate or 10 nitrate-nitrogen.

I think NTL is one of the rare aquarium test kits that uses nitrate-nitrogen.

If API results are roughly 4 times NTL and under 44 then everything is as expected and your nitrate levels are legal.

Edit: UK limit is 50 ppm nitrate.
 
If the nitrate #2 is a suspension then getting the drops out quickly before it resettles may be important. If you shake it really well but let it settle it defeats the purpose.
 
I know you all are talking about fresh water, but saltwater keepers that use API tests (they aren't the very best for salt) are always warned to follow the nitrate directions to the letter, to the extent of setting a timer or using a watch to shake the bottles and the mixed test for exactly the amount of time listed. Thou shalt count to thirty. Thou shalt not stop at twenty-nine, neither shalt thou proceed to thirty-one!
 
I think it's like a lot of bottled liquids. If they're opened and left open for periods of time, are stored in places where temperatures fluctuate widely (top shelf in hot seasons, bottom shelf or floor in very cold seasons), accidentally cross contaminated with other solutions over time (wrong lid replaced on them, tip touched to water or other chemicals etc.) or left unmoved for months at a time, they will deteriorate sooner than the projected expiration date. I have multiple tanks and so don't really have a problem but I can see how it happens.
Yaa I think that is what happened. I try not to, but I always mix and match my nitrate caps and ammonia caps since I open them both at the same time.
 
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  • #19
Yaa I think that is what happened. I try not to, but I always mix and match my nitrate caps and ammonia caps since I open them both at the same time.
I put little drops of paint on the caps. I also label the tubes so I always use the same tube for the same test.
 
My labels alwa
I put little drops of paint on the caps. I also label the tubes so I always use the same tube for the same test.
My labels always come off. what do you use.
 
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  • #21
I have a brother P touch label maker and I get the labels that say they can be used outside.

 

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Ok I know that we are talking about NO3 but I am going to jump in here. When my API test vile turns from green to yellow overnight does this mean that the bio is converting ammonia?
 
Fi
I have a brother P touch label maker and I get the labels that say they can be used outside.
First off I am envious of your readings. Dealing with a new (3 week old 125g) and lots of Ammonia in the supply water, that's another thread. I P touch label maker with the white tape is the same one I use. One big difference, I am not using enough label to wrap around the vile. Dah, thanks I'll try that next time.
 
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  • #24
My system is pretty simple. I set everything up. Go to the pet store and get one Danio, a bottle of Tetra quick start, and two big handful of filth from their tank filters. Transport the filth quickly, and in water, stick that in the filter. Add the quick start, and the Danio. Test and do water changes till it's perfect. Usually it's good to go right then.
 
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My system is pretty simple. I set everything up. Go to the pet store and get one Danio, a bottle of Tetra quick start, and two big handful of filth from their tank filters. Transport the filth quickly, and in water, stick that in the filter. Add the quick start, and the Danio. Test and do water changes till it's perfect. Usually it's good to go right then.
Your system sounds like a good plan of action. I have the luxury of having multiple tanks which I can keep sponge filters and also run multiple canisters which I can use to "seed" the new tank with. The 125g is doing well I have planted and African cichlid tanks so I lucky with N03 40ppm or less.
 
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  • #26
I'm going to be seeding a 55 with a canister filter I've been running on that tank for two weeks. I'm debating if I want to do the sponge filter too. I put one in the established tank just in case.

I'm really lucky with my tap water. Columbus has almost perfect water. The pH is a bit higher than I would prefer. That's never caused me any real problems.
 
I n
I'm going to be seeding a 55 with a canister filter I've been running on that tank for two weeks. I'm debating if I want to do the sponge filter too. I put one in the established tank just in case.

I'm really lucky with my tap water. Columbus has almost perfect water. The pH is a bit higher than I would prefer. That's never caused me any real problems.
I run a 3 stage filter into my holding tank. KC tap water PH=10. N03=5.ppm. Am=1.5ppm. KH=4. GH=10 (higher after rains...and it's been raining a lot). My fish don't mind the hardness.
 
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  • #28
Yeah, that's nasty water. Ever check it for lead?
 
Yeah, that's nasty water. Ever check it for lead?
Not recently. The Aquasana 3 stage is suppose to take a lot of the usual "bad stuff" out. It hasn't been reported as a problem with municipal water but you have me thinking I might want to get a kit. My TDS pen reads 185ppm.
 
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  • #30
You would be surprised where you'll find lead. Even in new builds the solder joints are lead, and if the water sits there long enough. It has lead in it.
 

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My labels alwa

My labels always come off. what do you use.
Well, that colored paint/ sharpie idea sounds good. You could color code the the bottles ie 'blue is pH', yellow ammonia, red nitrites etc.
 
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  • #36
I'm forgetful and I was pulling out the directions all the time.
 

Random Great Topic!

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