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Do you float the bag before adding the fish?I cut the bag open, pour the fish into the net, and plop it in the tank.
Do you float the bag before adding the fish?I cut the bag open, pour the fish into the net, and plop it in the tank.
When a bag is sealed and the oxygen slowly depletes the carbon dioxide builds and lowers pH.Oxygen doesn't really affect pH.
When a bag is sealed and the oxygen slowly depletes the carbon dioxide builds and lowers pH.
Funny, I just ran across this video a couple days ago and it made me rethink my slow water additions method:
If I feel there is a large difference in temp, but normally no.Do you float the bag before adding the fish?
To be fair, that video is five years old and he exclusively interviewed people who had been professionals in the industry for years already at that time! I personally was surprised because the newer, trendier suggestion is drip acclimating, from what I usually see.It's trendy. It's on Youtube. Is it correct? I have my doubts.
To be fair, that video is five years old and he exclusively interviewed people who had been professionals in the industry for years already at that time! I personally was surprised because the newer, trendier suggestion is drip acclimating, from what I usually see.
You actually have that backwards. I didn't even know what drip acclimating meant when I started fishkeeping again back in late 2015. Maybe you think it's new because it's starting to make a comeback, because it simply works.Drop or plop is the newer, trendier, "woke" method.
Some people get too fancy and technical about it, and do a very slow drip acclimation that lasts 2 hrs or more, which seems counterintuitive to me. Wouldn't you want your fish out of the dirty water as quickly as reasonably possible and not stressed out in a tiny space? When I hear about someone doing this, they seemingly lose half their fish (especially shrimp) within hrs or the next day, then ask if they didn't drip long enough. Either I have confirmation bias, or I'm really seeing a pattern. I'm definitely biased to the plop and drop method.I've never lost a fish with the plop and drop method, but...
If the ammonia is high in the shipping bag, will it really hurt the fish to sit in the bag for another hour? Is the ammonia going to become more toxic?
Will the drip acclimation dilute the ammonia fast enough if they are sitting in the bag they shipped in?
(Under no circumstances do I add lfs water to my tank. I don't want anything they may have floating in their water!
You actually have that backwards. I didn't even know what drip acclimating meant when I started fishkeeping again back in late 2015. Maybe you think it's new because it's starting to make a comeback, because it simply works.
If the ammonia is high in the shipping bag, will it really hurt the fish to sit in the bag for another hour? Is the ammonia going to become more toxic?
Will the drip acclimation dilute the ammonia fast enough if they are sitting in the bag they shipped in?
(Under no circumstances do I add lfs water to my tank. I don't want anything they may have floating in their water!
So are you saying drip acclimation is best? (Sounds like it)When I got my first fish as an adult around 2000, drip acclimating was the only method. I thought it might be unnecessary and killed my first fish (an Oscar so not a delicate species). I drip acclimated fish after that and never lost one.
It's only in recent years that I've noticed people proselytizing for drop or plop.
The argument is that CO2 has lowered the pH to the point where ammonia isn't toxic and opening the bag results in a rapid increase in pH.
Trying to avoid adding outside water to your tank isn't a guarantee since bacteria and other pathogens live on and inside fish.
CO2 can lower pH which decreases the toxicity of ammonia but is itself toxic to fish so you have to choose the lesser of two evils. In the studies on fish transport, they decided that CO2 was more dangerous and added pH buffers to prevent pH from declining. As mentioned before, one study actually used NaOH to absorb CO2 so there would be no protective effect the entire time...and fish survival increased.
If the shipper adds pH buffer, ammonia binder, or clinoptilotite or uses a breather bag there will be no benefit to plop or drop.
The drop or plop method also assumes that pH will increase rapidly but to this day no one has shown this. I doubt CO2 diffuses out of the water instantly. Air-water CO2 equilibrium is complicated and CO2 levels in the ocean lag years or decades behind atmospheric CO2 levels so this is not an assumption I would make.
I don't have a CO2 meter ($2,700) but I have several dissolved oxygen probes. Recently, I've been supersaturating one tank with oxygen and I'm surprised how long it lasts. In 24 hours it will go from ~330% to ~220%. Of course, oxygen and CO2 are different gases but the coefficient of diffusion of CO2 in water is 1.89 x 10-5 cm2/s while oxygen's is 2.42 x 10-5 cm2/s--not vastly different. But we'll just assume CO2 diffuses instantly while oxygen takes days...
Ammonia does not instantly harm fish at these levels. When ammonia levels in the water are higher than that in the blood, ammonia can no longer diffuse across the gills or is too energetically costly to pump out as ammonium and blood ammonia levels begin to rise. This takes time and probably much longer than any drip acclimation.
A combination of floating bag and drip method for me. I just empty 3/4 of the bag water from the fish shop in the drain then then float it and then add water every 5 minutes from the aquarium for around half an hour then tip all the water over a net then release the fish in the tankWondering how you acclimate new fish arrivals....
Cup/Bucket Method - put bag contents in a clean bucket, add water at periodic intervals to get fish acclimated.
Drip Method - Use a drip loop to slowly drip acclimate the fish over a period of time while in a bucket.
Floating Bag Method - what a lot of chain stores tell you to do.... float the bag in the top of the tank for awhile until the temperature is the same, hopefully slowly adding tank water to the bag too over the acclimation time period..
Other Methods - what exactly do you do to acclimate new arrivals? How is it better or how does it differ from the other listed methods?
If interested, here is the Fishlore article on acclimating: Acclimating Fish to Your Aquarium
Thanks!
Mike
Well heres the thing i voted for floating bag method, but it all depends on the fish im getting, if it is a strong fish that is not very sensitive i will just float it, but if it is a sensitive fish that needs a little more TLC, i will drip acclimate it just to be sure it is ok.Wondering how you acclimate new fish arrivals....
Cup/Bucket Method - put bag contents in a clean bucket, add water at periodic intervals to get fish acclimated.
Drip Method - Use a drip loop to slowly drip acclimate the fish over a period of time while in a bucket.
Floating Bag Method - what a lot of chain stores tell you to do.... float the bag in the top of the tank for awhile until the temperature is the same, hopefully slowly adding tank water to the bag too over the acclimation time period..
Other Methods - what exactly do you do to acclimate new arrivals? How is it better or how does it differ from the other listed methods?
If interested, here is the Fishlore article on acclimating: Acclimating Fish to Your Aquarium
Thanks!
Mike
I do the same thing, minus adding the store water. Ick isn't a big deal to me, but I dont want snails, etc that the store does have.I let the bag float for say 15 minutes, then add 1 cup of tank water, let bag float like 10-15 minutes then bingo, fish(s) and water all go into tank. I have been doing this for over 40 years and never lost a fish.
Quarantine tank??? Please I rather have that set up for just another tank.
Yes I know, what happens if a fish get ick? Sick?
Maybe I am just born lucky, ( although I never hit Lotto ) because I have never had to deal with ick.
I do have a 7 year old Angel fish now that I was told he has stomach Cancer.
But hes still hanging out with all his friends in the 125.