Considering Getting A Dwarf Puffer

[Zai]

So I'm planning on getting a dwarf puffer (after doing as much research as physically possible), thoug it won't be for another 2 to 4 months at most. I'm going to spend time planting and decorating the tank and letting it cycle fully before even thinking about putting a fish in it. It's going to be a 10g and whatever fish I get will be the only one in there (Either a DP or a male Betta). However I want the thoughts and opinions of those who have kept them and know them.

Now I'm a fairly new aquarist, but I'm dedicated and know how to cycle a tank (took me a bit to learn but i've figured it out). I know this isn't a fish for beginners but am still willing to try if, after getting as much knowledge on them as I can, I decide to get one. I have some questions that i've thought up while reading, but also just want to hear YOUR experiences with them, what you've found helped with caring for them, etc. Also photos of your tanks so I have good examples of what would my a DP happiest as far as landscaping~

my questions so far are:

1. Do I have to feed it snails, or would it be happy on frozen blood worms, frozen/freeze dried brine shrimp, etc? I'll breed snails and shrimp for it if it turns out to be picky but just want to know if I HAVE to right off the bat
2. How much should I feed it? How many blood worms per meal and how often? (replace blood worms with shrimp/snails/etc)
3. Could I keep an otos in with it? On the care guide for it on fishlore it says many aquarists say you can keep a otos in with it and be fine. I'd be happier knowing there was some sort of clean up fish, but will of course keep up with water changes and spot cleaning
4. How often would I change the water and how much?
5. Best water temperature to keep it happy and healthy? (I read 77-79F but am confirming)
6. Best PH? I've seen 6 to 7.5 but also have seen 7 to 7.8
7. Whats the best sort of filter and waterflow? I'm planning on using a sponge filter, and want to know if the water should be still like with betta.
8. If it gets ich or something like that, would using salt be safe? Or should I stick with raising the temp and daily water changes? I've read they don't do well with medicines
9. What should I use to deworm when I get them? Would prazipro work?
10. Would liquid ferts harm them in any ways?
11. Is there any special equipment or otherwise you'd suggest for one?
12. Do they prefer hard or soft water?

That's all for now, I know I'll have more. Other than those questions, I'm welcome to all advice, suggestions, and photos of tank builds.

I have soft water (I don't have a test kit but i've done other testing, so while I know it's soft, I don't know the level)

 

[Puffer_Whisperer]

1. You should feed your puffer snails every once in a while for their beak (even though the DP beak grows slow) as well as to vary up their diet. You can feed them blood worms, but that shouldn't be their main food source. Change up their diet with a variety of frozen foods such as brine shrimp, krill, mussels, etc. Peas are also good to help with their digestion.

2. As for how much they can eat, feed them as much as they can eat within a five minute period.

3.Dwarf puffers can be kept with Ottos, but not in that size tank. Ottos typically are best when they have a school of 6 or more, and that would be too many for a ten gallon tank. Also, since it is a small tank, you have a higher chance of aggression from the dwarf puffer.

4. Any puffer is a messy eater and extremely sensitive to nitrates. Thus, depending on the specs of your tank (i.e. being planted, stocking, etc.). Water changes should be done weekly. If it is a planted tank with only one puffer, 25% weekly should be more than enough.

5. Your temperature is correct. They are very hardy temperature wise, so don't be too worried about that.

6. Not sure on the best PH, but 6.5 to 7.5 is typically safe.

7. The dp is a strong swimmer, so they can deal with high flows, so a simple HOB would be fine for the puffer. If you are keeping more than one puffer, a HOB would be recommended to keep up with the waste. If just one puffer, a sponge filter should be fine.

8. I wouldn't try salt. They do not do well in low level salt water. It would be best just to increase the temperature.

9. This link has a lot of information on deworming:


10. I've never had a problem using liquid ferts

11. Not too much equipment is needed for a DP. I would recommend a planted tank though.

12. Water hardness/softness is not typically a problem for DP.

Hope this helped

 

[Zai]

1. You should feed your puffer snails every once in a while for their beak (even though the DP beak grows slow) as well as to vary up their diet. You can feed them blood worms, but that shouldn't be their main food source. Change up their diet with a variety of frozen foods such as brine shrimp, krill, mussels, etc. Peas are also good to help with their digestion.

2. As for how much they can eat, feed them as much as they can eat within a five minute period.

3.Dwarf puffers can be kept with Ottos, but not in that size tank. Ottos typically are best when they have a school of 6 or more, and that would be too many for a ten gallon tank. Also, since it is a small tank, you have a higher chance of aggression from the dwarf puffer.

4. Any puffer is a messy eater and extremely sensitive to nitrates. Thus, depending on the specs of your tank (i.e. being planted, stocking, etc.). Water changes should be done weekly. If it is a planted tank with only one puffer, 25% weekly should be more than enough.

5. Your temperature is correct. They are very hardy temperature wise, so don't be too worried about that.

6. Not sure on the best PH, but 6.5 to 7.5 is typically safe.

7. The dp is a strong swimmer, so they can deal with high flows, so a simple HOB would be fine for the puffer. If you are keeping more than one puffer, a HOB would be recommended to keep up with the waste. If just one puffer, a sponge filter should be fine.

8. I wouldn't try salt. They do not do well in low level salt water. It would be best just to increase the temperature.

9. This link has a lot of information on deworming:


10. I've never had a problem using liquid ferts

11. Not too much equipment is needed for a DP. I would recommend a planted tank though.

12. Water hardness/softness is not typically a problem for DP.

Hope this helped

it was very helpful! he'd be the only one in the tank and I'm planning on a pretty heavily planted tank (like a jungle tank) bc I love them. I figured it'd give them plenty of hiding places as well. I'd definitely be full testing this tank every other day and only adding the little one once it had been fully cycled for at least 2-3 weeks.

okay so if I had some small snails in with my neons and cory catfish and they breed, I could feed him(or her) some of the snails once or twice a week ontop of a rotation of blood worms, brine shrimp, and krill.

1. You should feed your puffer snails every once in a while for their beak (even though the DP beak grows slow) as well as to vary up their diet. You can feed them blood worms, but that shouldn't be their main food source. Change up their diet with a variety of frozen foods such as brine shrimp, krill, mussels, etc. Peas are also good to help with their digestion.

2. As for how much they can eat, feed them as much as they can eat within a five minute period.

3.Dwarf puffers can be kept with Ottos, but not in that size tank. Ottos typically are best when they have a school of 6 or more, and that would be too many for a ten gallon tank. Also, since it is a small tank, you have a higher chance of aggression from the dwarf puffer.

4. Any puffer is a messy eater and extremely sensitive to nitrates. Thus, depending on the specs of your tank (i.e. being planted, stocking, etc.). Water changes should be done weekly. If it is a planted tank with only one puffer, 25% weekly should be more than enough.

5. Your temperature is correct. They are very hardy temperature wise, so don't be too worried about that.

6. Not sure on the best PH, but 6.5 to 7.5 is typically safe.

7. The dp is a strong swimmer, so they can deal with high flows, so a simple HOB would be fine for the puffer. If you are keeping more than one puffer, a HOB would be recommended to keep up with the waste. If just one puffer, a sponge filter should be fine.

8. I wouldn't try salt. They do not do well in low level salt water. It would be best just to increase the temperature.

9. This link has a lot of information on deworming:


10. I've never had a problem using liquid ferts

11. Not too much equipment is needed for a DP. I would recommend a planted tank though.

12. Water hardness/softness is not typically a problem for DP.

Hope this helped

that thread about deworming mentioned a medicine I can't seem to fnd anywhere online, dang it

 

[JLeeM]

KingD may have some good advice for you. I'm also going to be watching this thread. I've thought about doing a nano puffer tank myself soon.

 

[Zai]

KingD may have some good advice for you. I'm also going to be watching this thread. I've thought about doing a nano puffer tank myself soon.

I saw someone posting photos, fell in love, and now have about 350$ worth of stuff in my amazon cart to prep for a new baby in 2-3 monthsxD

 

[Puffer_Whisperer]

it was very helpful! he'd be the only one in the tank and I'm planning on a pretty heavily planted tank (like a jungle tank) bc I love them. I figured it'd give them plenty of hiding places as well. I'd definitely be full testing this tank every other day and only adding the little one once it had been fully cycled for at least 2-3 weeks.

okay so if I had some small snails in with my neons and cory catfish and they breed, I could feed him(or her) some of the snails once or twice a week ontop of a rotation of blood worms, brine shrimp, and krill.

Yes. For a dp you probably only need to feed it a snail bI weekly. It should be no bigger than their eye

 

[Zai]

I saw someone suggestiong metroplex. I can't quote it but heres what he wrote:

Sorry to get back to you so late. I actually apologize as well, it's been so long since I dewormed and thought I had something unique. I used Metronidazole, with the normal dosing directions, but had to purchase it online. I would imagine you can find it in some LFS. I was originally thinking of the dog dewormer I got to kill off the cursed planaria I had once...while I had my puffer.

I wanted to refresh myself on deworming so searched a little bit online. The Puffer Forum has 1 good article and actually has a post about those fizzy tabs. Since I'm not on my computer I can't copy and paste the links so Google "puffer dewormers" and look at the first 2 links. The dewormer article gives you a couple backup plans too. The main issue is whether they are eating or not. If they are eating you just soak the food in the medication and pray they eat it. If they are not eating you can dose the water, which you just use more this way. I've done both, seemed to work with a little patience. I remember seeing on someone's post that they got theirs from a local breeder (impressive). In that case, I probably wouldn't worry as much but may do a light dosage just to play it safe.

Yes. For a dp you probably only need to feed it a snail bI weekly. It should be no bigger than their eye

okay thank you!

 

[Puffer_Whisperer]

that thread about deworming mentioned a medicine I can't seem to fnd anywhere online, dang it

****. That's unfortunate. Prazipro should work...most dewormers should. The only dewormer I would stay away from is Levamisol. Some people swear by it, but it was discontinued for human use due to its unpredictability, so I do not trust it.

 

[Zai]

. That's unfortunate. Prazipro should work...most dewormers should. The only dewormer I would stay away from is Levamisol. Some people swear by it, but it was discontinued for human use due to its unpredictability, so I do not trust it.

Duly noted. I've seen metroplex mentioned as well, I have both in my cart for now.

 

[Puffer_Whisperer]

Duly noted. I've seen metroplex mentioned as well, I have both in my cart for now.

Yeah. That should also work. For the best effect, as mentioned above, soak their food in it. Peas will also help with the deworming process since they are a natural laxative.

 

[Zai]

Yeah. That should also work. For the best effect, as mentioned above, soak their food in it. Peas will also help with the deworming process since they are a natural laxative.

okay thank you, you've been amazing helpful!

 

[Fishcat]

If you decide to feed more snails (or you have a picky puffer), there are people who sell feeder snails on the buy/sell/trade/free forum here (I should know, I’m one of them!). You do not need to worry that your puffer will starve if you don’t keep a snail culture going.

 

[AJ34]

As someone who has owned Bettas and a puffer, the biggest challenge for me is the difference in feeding. My puffer is picky. Only eats snails mainly and just kinda picks at frozen foods “some” of the time. I have tried frozen bloodworms, brine, and mysis with garlic guard and still no real success. I set up a snail tank but no breeding as of yet. I have been ordering snails on Amazon because I have a hard time getting them at my pet stores. Feeding is the biggest challenge for me personally.

 

[Zai]

As someone who has owned Bettas and a puffer, the biggest challenge for me is the difference in feeding. My puffer is picky. Only eats snails mainly and just kinda picks at frozen foods “some” of the time. I have tried frozen bloodworms, brine, and mysis with garlic guard and still no real success. I set up a snail tank but no breeding as of yet. I have been ordering snails on Amazon because I have a hard time getting them at my pet stores. Feeding is the biggest challenge for me personally.

I plan on putting snails in my 20 gallon it has an algae problem, so maybe eill just buy a bunch of them online and pop them in there and hope they breed.
I'm fully prepared to have to keep a snail colony going if it's too picky to eat frozen. It definitely would be a change from my other fish that eat anything lol.
My neons even go after my sinking wafers for my cory catfish xD

 

[eustoma01]

From all the research I've done, it appears that Dwarf Puffers are the only puffer that is completely freshwater and does not need a diet of snails or mollusks for its teeth. There are people that feed it worms exclusively, but all the research I've done indicate that each fish can vary wildly from another in terms of diet and temperament. Some keep other small critters in their tanks and have their DP ignore it while others hunt down and kill every snail or shrimp in their tank... others only eat a certain thing... it is all a bit sad but I guess this is one fish where you just have to work with it to figure out what it likes.

 

[Rich Johnson]

I've had my dwarf puffer for a year now, and he's a VERY picky eater. He loves snails and live brine shrimp. But that's about it. I've tried every frozen food, and he won't go near them. After talking to other DP owners, I've concluded that they are very individualistic fish. What works for one may not work for another. My advice is to try everything, and see what YOUR puffer responds to.

But they are worth the effort. Mine is very curious, interactive, and attention-seeking.

 

[Zai]

I've had my dwarf puffer for a year now, and he's a VERY picky eater. He loves snails and live brine shrimp. But that's about it. I've tried every frozen food, and he won't go near them. After talking to other DP owners, I've concluded that they are very individualistic fish. What works for one may not work for another. My advice is to try everything, and see what YOUR puffer responds to.

But they are worth the effort. Mine is very curious, interactive, and attention-seeking.

I'm trying to get my MTS to multiply for food for them, I might also buy some ramshorns from online and breed them in my 3gal tank. Or honestly just buy like a 5 gallon bucket, another sponge filter, and let them breed in the bucket xD

 

[eustoma01]

I'm trying to get my MTS to multiply for food for them, I might also buy some ramshorns from online and breed them in my 3gal tank. Or honestly just buy like a 5 gallon bucket, another sponge filter, and let them breed in the bucket xD

He might have a hard time eating the MTS because they stay in the substrate most of the time

 

[Zai]

He might have a hard time eating the MTS because they stay in the substrate most of the time

Oh. Well I'll get a few to aerate the substrate in there and. Reed some ramshorns for him then. I only got the MTS bc I've seen a few who have puffers with a tank full of MTS that work out well. But better safe than sorry, ultimately

 

[Rich Johnson]

He might have a hard time eating the MTS because they stay in the substrate most of the time

MTS will come out of the substrate at night to look for food. I put about 25 of them in my puffer tank once. They immediately burrowed into the gravel. Each time I did a water change, I found a few empty shells. One-by-by they became midnight snacks. After 2-3 months, I didn't ever see any more.

 

[Jamelie]

Here's my 10 gal jungle... I have 3 puffers, 3 ottos, 6 amano shrimp and MTS.

 

[Rich Johnson]

Wow, Jamelie, I love your profile pic. Great shot.

 

[Zai]

Here's my 10 gal jungle... I have 3 puffers, 3 ottos, 6 amano shrimp and MTS.
View attachment 550104

i'm doing a hobbit/shire theme. i'm getting my plants within the next 2 weeks, and then the house and drift wood/cave next month. i;m so excitedlol.

 

[Jamelie]

Wow, Jamelie, I love your profile pic. Great shot.

Thanks took me few hours of non stop taking pictures of them