1st time betta Fish owner

2.5 gallons is pretty minimum for a betta. A 2.5 octagon is pushing it, and if you can get your hands on a 2.5/5/5/10 gallon AGA tank from Petsmart you'd be in better shape. However, the tank that you have will work.

Snails, yes. Some bettas will tolerate shrimp, however a lot of them (including mine) will either eat them or torture the shrimp to death. So beware.

I recommend live plants. Much healthier for the tank, they're usually prettier, and plastic plants can cut betta's fins.

Definitely a filter. Get a HoB filter if you can find one small enough to fit your tank (I recommend the Azoo Palm filter, however it might be too wide for an octagon.) If you can't find anything else, a sponge filter will work.

Air stones aren't needed, especially for bettas, seeing as they breathe from the air.

You're going to also need a heater, as betta's are tropical fish. They actually prefer temps higher than 76 (I've actually seen some people happily keep them in 84F!!!).
 

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Minimum size tank for a betts is 2G, so your 2.5 tank will be large enough. Betts will be much happier in a larger tank, I keep mine in a 5G.

You can absolutely keep shrimp with Bettas, same with snails. I have Amano shrimp and Nerite snails with my betta.

Any plants should have smooth edges. Plastic plans won't do, silk plants are better since they won't tear the Bettas fins.

A sponge filter will work best with a betta due to the low flow. The XY-2822 sponge filter will work great. If you get a different filter make sure the flow isn't too strong. Bettas go to the top of tank to breathe.
 
Yes, the minimum tank size for a Betta is 2-2.5( depending on your Betta's size )

Ghost Shrimp and Nerite Snails are great tank mates.
You need to change the water more often though if you do decide to add any of the two.

Live plant and fake plant are fine. I have both in my Betta tanks.

You can put a filter in your tank but, since it's such a small tank you might be fine just doing frequent weather changes. It really is just up to you.

Airarater is optional...

Good luck! You will really enjoy a Betta!
 
Yes, the minimum tank size for a Betta is 2-2.5( depending on your Betta's size )

Ghost Shrimp and Nerite Snails are great tank mates.
You need to change the water more often though if you do decide to add any of the two.

Live plant and fake plant are fine. I have both in my Betta tanks.

You can put a filter in your tank but, since it's such a small tank you might be fine just doing frequent weather changes. It really is just up to you.

Airarater is optional...

Good luck! You will really enjoy a Betta!
Filter's really aren't optional in betta tanks. Betta's need a stable, cycled environment. Frequent water changes can work in a pinch, but its less than ideal.
 
Actually, I have ( and many other experienced Betta owners I know and talk with) have kept stable water levels in small 2-2.5 gallon tanks. From how Eliscofield12 was talking I could tell she knew what she's doing. Only experienced betta keepers have the knowledge of how to keep the water levels in a healthy range. Also, we're talking about a very small 2.5 gallon tank, which ( if you're experienced) is totally okay, if you know what you're doing.
 

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Actually, I have ( and many other experienced Betta owners I know and talk with) have kept stable water levels in small 2-2.5 gallon tanks. From how Eliscofield12 was talking I could tell she knew what she's doing. Only experienced betta keepers have the knowledge of how to keep the water levels in a healthy range. Also, we're talking about a very small 2.5 gallon tank, which ( if you're experienced) is totally okay, if you know what you're doing.
I'm not sure what you're saying here. I don't think any of us are disagreeing with anything you said, so if you could use the "Reply" feature in the future, it could help us all get a better meaning out of what you're saying
 
I'm not sure what you're saying here. I don't think any of us are disagreeing with anything you said, so if you could use the "Reply" feature in the future, it could help us all get a better meaning out of what you're saying

You should read it because it's to you.

You should read it because it's to you.

No offense
 
Actually, I have ( and many other experienced Betta owners I know and talk with) have kept stable water levels in small 2-2.5 gallon tanks. From how Eliscofield12 was talking I could tell she knew what she's doing. Only experienced betta keepers have the knowledge of how to keep the water levels in a healthy range. Also, we're talking about a very small 2.5 gallon tank, which ( if you're experienced) is totally okay, if you know what you're doing.
Okay then.

Keeping any fish in a small aquarium without a filter is a setup for disaster (I'm speaking from experience). With no filter, there can be no Nitrogen Cycle. Unless this tank is going to be filled to the BRIM with plants, even with frequent water changes, Ammonia will still be present. This is not good for any fish. It doesn't matter if you and many other "experienced betta keepers" have kept them in unfiltered tanks. It's simply cruel. No more cruel than keeping them in tiny cups, but if OP is willing to buy a filter for his fish, we should recommend that he buy a filter, as well as a heater. 2.5 gallon tanks are not ideal, they are the minimum. I keep my boy in a 2.5 and I wish I had a 5/10. Your comment on "only experienced betta keepers have the knowledge..." is completely incorrect and honestly kind of snarky (at least that's how I read it). The knowledge on how to properly care for a betta is freely available on this forum, as well as all over the internet. Most of these sources recommend a filtered, heated tank, and if you follow these guidelines, there should be no confusion as to how to keep a healthy tank. A 2.5 gallon tank will work for anyone, as long as they do it correctly. It's a simple set up, and speaking from experience, isn't all that much work.

Getting back to OP... You have a few opinions now, so I'm sure you've got a lot of thinking to do lol. I'd recommend either one of the dual sponge filters for your tank, or the Azoo Palm Filter. A 25W Hydor heater would also be an amazing addition, although I recommend slowly turning up the dial on the heater slowly until you reach the desired temp, as cranking it up too quickly could fry your tank!
 
Thank you (everyone) for the information!!! Y'all have been very helpful, and I will be looking at the suggestions y'all gave. I only ask two more things.

1. When suggesting equipment please use the exact model/models you use or prefer.

2. I am not on here to ruffle anyone's feathers and I am sure no one else is either but please try not to take offense if it does offend you, refrain from retaliation please.

Thanks again and please keep the responses coming
 

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Okay then.

Keeping any fish in a small aquarium without a filter is a setup for disaster (I'm speaking from experience). With no filter, there can be no Nitrogen Cycle. Unless this tank is going to be filled to the BRIM with plants, even with frequent water changes, Ammonia will still be present. This is not good for any fish. It doesn't matter if you and many other "experienced betta keepers" have kept them in unfiltered tanks. It's simply cruel. No more cruel than keeping them in tiny cups, but if OP is willing to buy a filter for his fish, we should recommend that he buy a filter, as well as a heater. 2.5 gallon tanks are not ideal, they are the minimum. I keep my boy in a 2.5 and I wish I had a 5/10. Your comment on "only experienced betta keepers have the knowledge..." is completely incorrect and honestly kind of snarky (at least that's how I read it). The knowledge on how to properly care for a betta is freely available on this forum, as well as all over the internet. Most of these sources recommend a filtered, heated tank, and if you follow these guidelines, there should be no confusion as to how to keep a healthy tank. A 2.5 gallon tank will work for anyone, as long as they do it correctly. It's a simple set up, and speaking from experience, isn't all that much work.

Getting back to OP... You have a few opinions now, so I'm sure you've got a lot of thinking to do lol. I'd recommend either one of the dual sponge filters for your tank, or the Azoo Palm Filter. A 25W Hydor heater would also be an amazing addition, although I recommend slowly turning up the dial on the heater slowly until you reach the desired temp, as cranking it up too quickly could fry your tank!

I suggest you upgrade your tank then.
 
I agree with those that a filter is a must. Without a filter, ammonia will grow very quickly and it's very hard for you to maintain those healthy levels.
 
A filter adds a level of safety. Come on are we really going to continue arguing about this? The nitrogen cycle is the SAME whether you're keeping a goldfish, guppy or betta.

Experienced or not you can't change the nitrogen cycle. It's the same no matter what, filters help a lot with the nitrogen cycle.

EDIT: And I'm SURE there are other experienced betta owners that will recommend a filter as well.
 
I'd just like to point out that if OP is willing to have shrimps or snails, put them before the betta, so he'll probably think they are only part of the tank and won't attack them
 
I personally would go a little bigger as a 2.5 gallon can be hard to keep stable, my 3.5 gallon is rather difficult, so imo the bigger the better, also as stated earlier the betta does need a filter either a regular filter with sponge in the outlet or a sponge filter.
 
I am thinking about getting Zacro USB MinI Fish Tank, 2.1 Gallon Aquarium Kit-Desktop MinI Fish Globe with Pen Holder, Alarm Clock and LED Light(Black) look it up on amazon. Sorry don't know how to post a link.

Just figured it out.
 
I would really suggest something at least 2.5 gallons for your betta instead as 2.5 gallons is the recommended minimum tank size. If you are able, 5-10 gallons would be best in my opinion
 
My biggest regret with getting my betta - not setting up a 10 gallon from the start. The larger the tank, the easier to maintain. I am cycling a 10 gallon now, to move my betta in, from his 5 gallon. I was pretty ignorant when I first got him and just assumed that Bettas prefer smaller tanks, but he swims so much, all over the place, all the time (casually, not stressed), and then lounges on his plants.

One thing to keep in mind is that with hexagon tanks, many show their reflection a lot and can also stress a betta a lot as well.

Definitely agree with others above - filter and heater for sure! I love my little guy! They have so much personality!!

I just saw the link to the tank you are thinking about. I would probably go with bigger, for sure. Once you put a filter and heater in, that will take away even more space for them to swim.
 
Yes, please get a 2.5 at the least If you have a plakat or a female, a 5 would be better, and a 10 would be a betta paradise.

Also, filters are necessary in every single tank - if you get a filter for an oscar, you get a filter for a betta - and I'm saying this as an experienced Betta owner.
 
Yes this is temporary as I am getting a 10 gallon and will begin cycling in about 1 and a half weeks. I would love it if y'all could share some pics of yalls betta tanks! I want some inspiration. Also any tips would be great. One more thing, can y'all tell me if there are any tank mates I can put in with the little guy?
 

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Yes this is temporary as I am getting a 10 gallon and will begin cycling in about 1 and a half weeks. I would love it if y'all could share some pics of yalls betta tanks! I want some inspiration. Also any tips would be great. One more thing, can y'all tell me if there are any tank mates I can put in with the little guy?
That's awesome! Bettas can live with snails and/or a small colony of ghost shrimp, although some bettas will try to eat the shrimp and bug the snails. It's best to watch your betta's interaction with the new tank mates very closely for the first week, to make sure there is no nipping or excessive chasing. I would suggest Omega One Betta Buffet Pellets, frozen brine shrimp, and frozen bloodworms! I also suggest soaking the pellets in water for 10 minutes before giving them to the betta in order to avoid the betta getting bloated. PVC pipe also work great as a little hideout that won't snag betta fins. If you do get PVC, just look over the piece first to make sure there are no bits of pointy plastic. I love using sand as a substrate because it's easy to keep clean and has a natural look.
This is my tank. It is pretty barren right now, but I'm about to turn it into a planted tank.
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I'm a first time betta owner, I've had Iggy since February. He's in a 10 gallon tank with filter and heater, gets weekly water changes, gravel on tank bottom, eats pellets and dried bugs with one weekly "fast" day.

Few days ago I noticed he had what looked like one lifted scale on his head and slight tear in right pectoral fin. Assumed he bumped into something but next day he has a few white (not fuzzy) patches on his head and today what looks like a tiny lint ball hanging off a ventral fin.

Otherwise he is active and begging for food all the time.
His tank temp is between 80-82 degrees, and he has no tank mates. I haven't changed anything about his care lately other than about two weeks ago it was ten days between water changes instead of a week because I was camping. I do vacuum the gravel every time and take out all his plants and scrub them down (no soap of course, just physically remove any algae)

Please help! I love him so much
 
It says my s are too big and I'm in class but I'll try and figure it out as soon as I get home

Think I figured it out
 

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I don't actually own a test kit myself (the one thing I don't have) but my boyfriend tested with his kit a few weeks ago. I don't have any numbers but he said it was good, and that nothing should have changed since then, except obviously something has... I'm planning to change his carbon out tonight and do another water change
 
I don't actually own a test kit myself (the one thing I don't have) but my boyfriend tested with his kit a few weeks ago. I don't have any numbers but he said it was good, and that nothing should have changed since then, except obviously something has... I'm planning to change his carbon out tonight and do another water change
that would be a good start. I'm not too expierienced with fish illnesses since ive never had sick fish other then ich or popeye but it could possibly be a bacterial. not too sure though hopefully someone with more experience will see this
 
Sounds like you have a nice setup for a betta. Congratulations on the ten gallon tank.
 
To me, it looks like some sort of bacterial infection or ich, but I'm certainly no expert in Betta fish diseases and I can't see the pictures all too well. My best suggestion for you is to get a test kit, test the water to make sure everything is good, do a few extra water changes this week, and raise the temperature of the water by a few degrees (gradually, of course).
Have you been able to see what his poop is like at all?
 
First of all, thank you to everyone who has replied so far!

I don't think I've ever seen him poop so I wouldn't know if it was different.

As for temp, his tank is currently 80-82 degrees... how high should I go and for how long..?
 

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It doesn't look like ich. Can you get a picture focusing on the area itself? Does it look flaky?
 
I'm walking home from class now (going to stop by the pet store for a test kit). The first "spot" I'll call it was tiny, above his eye, and looked like a raised scale. Then the patches on the right side of his head developed. There doesn't seem to be much texture to them, it's kind of just discolouration.

Like I said he is still very active so it's hard to get the camera to focus but I'll see if I can get something closer as soon as I get home!

So the lady at the pet store was able to give me some advice based on the full quality photos (which were too large to post here). She recommended BettaFix for bacterial infections so I've bought that (I also got Test strips and did one, everything is normal with the water chemistry). I'm going to give this stuff a shot, but thank you so much to everyone who helped with suggestions and narrowing it down (and also thank you for not making me feel like a horrible fish parent!)

Hopefully this works but if not I'll be sure to come back to this lovely community
 
So the lady at the pet store was able to give me some advice based on the full quality photos (which were too large to post here). She recommended BettaFix for bacterial infections so I've bought that (I also got Test strips and did one, everything is normal with the water chemistry). I'm going to give this stuff a shot, but thank you so much to everyone who helped with suggestions and narrowing it down (and also thank you for not making me feel like a horrible fish parent!)

Hopefully this works but if not I'll be sure to come back to this lovely community
ive tried bettafix on an old betta but it didnt really do anything so I'm not 100% sure it will work but can't hurt to try
 
Be careful with BettaFix, too much can be very harmful and kill your fish. There's a really detailed sticky in the forum discussing it. It might help, I don't have tons of experience with it, but from what I understand it's an irritant that promotes healing. Just use it as directed and don't put any more in.
 
Yeah I've seen mixed reviews online, some people say it's amazing some people say it's worse than useless. Seems pretty split down the middle though. I gave it to him tonight after a 50% water change, but I was careful with the measurement and actually gave him a slightly lower dosage. And I may wait a day before dosing him again just to see how he reacts. What ever it is it's clearly in the early stages so I'd rather be cautious than risk over dosing him.
 
The spots are quite large and quite gathered, so I really doubt that it's ich. Assuming this started from a wound like it appears, then my knee-jerk reaction is that it's probably a bacterial infection though your description of its appearance suggest that it's possible (but less likely) that it could be some early-stage fungus. In general, if you suspect a bacterial infection and you truly can't ID it, then erithromycin or tetracycline are not bad go-to medications to try. Note that you won't generally find products named according to their medications on the shelf of your local big-box pet store, you'll need to read the medicine labels to find them.

The Bettafix you're using is simply a slightly less concentrated version of Melafix (they have the same single active ingredient, but Melafix is just more concentrated). It's been a long time since I've bothered with Melafix, but it's been my experience that it can help a little with minor bacterial infections and it can help stimulate wound healing to a certain extent. However, it's only good for light problems. For something more serious, you'll need a true medication. In other words, either the Bettafix will help within the first 3-4 days if it's going to work at all, but if you see no improvement in that time then do a big water change and run some activated carbon in your filter to help get it out of the water so you can try some bigger guns. But don't forget to take the carbon back out before you try the next medicine, or it will suck up your meds before they have time to help your betta! It sounds like you might be running carbon now. If you are, it's probably absorbing the Bettafix from your water, so you'll need to remove the carbon and re-dose the tank (if you only dosed a short while ago, you might be able to do a half-dose to "reapply" instead of a full dose if you're worried about overdosing, I'm uncertain how fast carbon pulls medication from the water since I usually only use it at the end of a treatment regimen so I just leave it in there for a week or two) to determine whether the Bettafix is having an effect.

That said, before you try any additional medications it would be best if you could take some close-up photos so we can get a more specific disease ID. Much like humans, it can be seriously harmful to fish's health to keep dosing them with unnecessary medications, so for now, before you go look for more medicines, I would suggest you take some close-up photos of the affected areas so you can post them here as well as do some research of your own on common fish diseases to see if any of those pictures and descriptions match with what you're seeing. And, of course, throughout this period of disease you should ensure that your water quality is high, with ammonia and nitrite at 0 and nitrate at 40 or less, preferably under 20. Sometimes maintaining good water quality can really slow or rarely even completely reverse a disease's progression if you catch it early, especially if water quality was a contributing factor to starting the problem. I'd strongly advise you test the water again since things can change in a few weeks even with a lone betta in a 10gal (which is a great size, well done on your first betta!), and water quality issues are often the number 1 reason for illnesses cropping up. If you can, please report the numbers you find here so we have a better picture of what's going on.
 
Hey everyone, just a quick update before I have to run to class. After a somewhat sleepless night (on my part; I may have spent some of it in the chair by his tank like a nervous new parent) it seems like the scary white "patches" on Iggy's face are already receding. The carbon is out of his filter, and I gave him another 50% water change this morning before a second (still lowish) dose of the bettafix.

I'm hoping maybe he was just a little immunocompromised after his initial 'injury' to his head and pectoral fin. So my current plan is to continue with the bettafix until it's gone (I have maybe one or two more doses) along with water changes and then focus on that fin. There might be a little bit of damage on his tail as well so I have an anti-fungal on hand in case it turns out to be fin rot, but I'm hoping it won't come to that.

I've ordered some aquarium salt which a lot of online resources say is good for fin healing as long as you're careful about the amount so you don't burn your fish. It should arrive Tuesday.
 
I'm glad to hear that he seems to be healing! For the future, though, do note that fin rot is bacterial in nature, not fungal.

As for his fin, it's probably just a tear unless you're seeing odd whiteness or discoloration along the edge of the tear site. I'd be a bit more worried about those patches that showed up, though luckily they've gone away now. I once had a male veiltail betta who somehow managed to tear his fins almost monthly in a tank with nothing but live plants and completely smooth river rocks, and he always healed up just fine. I'm sure your Iggy's fins will also heal soon.
 
HI guys, I’m getting really worried about my silver female bettalately. I got her a little over a year ago, she has a 2 gallon tank with a heater, and I clean her tank once a week and put in the appropriate amount of conditioner and aquarium salt. The day I brought her home she was pure white, and then a couple days after being in her new tank she became silver with black accents on her fins. She’s fairly active, and is receptive to food, but lately I’ve noticed her eyes are bulging a little bit, and she has weird dark patches all over her body. I love her so much and I’m so worried I’m doing something wrong, but I can’t figure out if she has an illness or what it is. Please help me.
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these four s are: the day I brought her home, about six months ago, and now today, where her eyes are bulging and she has dark patches on her head and back. Any advice or help is appreciated, thank you so much.
 

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The dark patches are lost scales. This looks like columnaris to me: notice the characteristic 'saddle' of light discolouration on her back (just anterior the dorsal fin). Columnaris is also known as 'saddleback disease' for this reason. What are your water parameters? Is she still feeding? Does she have other tankmates?
 
Looks perfectly healthy to me. Could be columnarris though.

The color change is normal though.

On the other hand 2 gallons is too small for a betta. You need a 5 gallon tank, filtered and heated. and cycled.
 
Thank you so much for your input. She has the tank to herself, and the water temperature is usually between 26-27 degrees Celsius, which is 80 Fahrenheit I believe. Is there any way to cure Columnaris? Don’t you know if she can die from it or if it is causing her pain?
 
Also to clarify: you add salt in her tank ever since? Does she have a filter?
 
She doesn’t currently have a filter, which is why I do more frequent water changes. I’ve been wanting to get her a bigger tank with a filter in it.
As for the salt, I add a tiny bit to every water change as I heard it helps prevent fin rot and helps with anxiety.
 
She doesn’t currently have a filter, which is why I do more frequent water changes. I’ve been wanting to get her a bigger tank with a filter in it.
As for the salt, I add a tiny bit to every water change as I heard it helps prevent fin rot and helps with anxiety.
I also noticed you indicated in your profile that you do not know of the nitrogen cycle, I suggest you read up on it for a better understanding of fish waste and how nature takes care of it in small systems such as aquariums. Water is everything to a fish: it breathes water, is in constant contact with water, pees and poos in water. For now I'm taking back my earlier assessment of columnaris. Columnaris can only thrive in well-aerated and well-circulated water. Yours is likely another sort facultative aerobic bacteria causing the ulcerations and exophthalmia (swollen eyes). Also normally salt is used to treat something. It shouldn't be used all the time for freshwater fish. They are freshwater fish for a reason. It can help with fin rot if you have fin rot, not as a preventative measure. For that you need to keep the water clean. And without a filter, and in a small tank of 2 gallons, that's very difficult to achieve (note: not impossible, but you have to really know what you're doing). For starters I would suggest doing a water change every other day. Do you have access to antibiotics?
 
Thank you again so much for your help. I’m so new when it comes to caring for fish and there’s just so much info out there. I will do my homework about the cycle, and start doing more frequent water changes for her, along with stopping the salt. I’m not sure where I’d get antibiotics, but I do know there are some specialty aquarium shops near my apartment that I could go check at. Is there a specific type of antibiotic you think she’d need?
 
Thank you again so much for your help. I’m so new when it comes to caring for fish and there’s just so much info out there. I will do my homework about the cycle, and start doing more frequent water changes for her, along with stopping the salt. I’m not sure where I’d get antibiotics, but I do know there are some specialty aquarium shops near my apartment that I could go check at. Is there a specific type of antibiotic you think she’d need?
Yes there is indeed. I daresay keeping fish takes much more reading and research than say, keeping a dog. This is largely because there's so many small things that can go wrong with the water.
With regards to treatment, I would urge you to consider looking for a bigger tank for your betta. 5 gallons minimum, as previously suggested. Filtration doesn't have to be fancy: a simple sponge filter powered by an air pump will serve this purpose very nicely. Now there are so many possible causes of pop-eye, but the ulcerations lead me to believe it's a bacterial infection. I would start with broad spectrum to cover for most possible causes. If you can, look for API furan-2, and seachem kanaplex, then use them together as per manufacturer's instructions. While treating, you should also do methylene blue baths, double dose, at 30mins twice a day.
 

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