Why do my Betta spawns keep dying? Please help

[glogozzo]

I've been breeding bettas for a few months now, I've tried 4 spawns in total.

I've noticed in all my spawns after a week and a half almost half of the babies start to die. They either are on the bottom of their tank and look almost bloated and grey in colour with eyes popping out (I'm uploading a picture of some of the dead babies that I picked out with an eyedropper so you can get an idea of what I mean). This has happened with my first ever spawn which completely wiped them all out (I lost every single baby) and killed my second spawn but I managed to save 3 that are thriving and growing very well. Now I have my third spawn that is only 1 week and a half old and so many fry have just suddenly started dying. I checked pH and its 7.1 and I do proper water changes every single day using an airline tube with 1-2 drops per second. I use prime water conditioner and add only one drop (it is not a big container that they are in and they're still way too young to switch to a 10 gal tank). Almost every time I check the tank they're in there are multiple dead at the bottom of the tank that I use an eyedropper to suck out so they don't rot the water. If there's anyone who has advice about this and can help me save more of my fry please let me know because I don't want another entire spawn to die off like my first two (and if you're wondering about my fourth spawn the stud ate all the fry the day they hatched... clearly wasn't a good dad)

 

[BigManAquatics]

What have you been feeding them? Small enough they can get their mouths on it? And is there any kind of oxygenation going on?

 

[glogozzo]

I'm feeding them vinegar eels and micro worms. What do you mean by oxygenation? Like an air tube?

What have you been feeding them? Small enough they can get their mouths on it? And is there any kind of oxygenation going on?

I'm feeding them vinegar eels and micro worms. What do you mean by oxygenation? Like an air tube? Sorry I'm rewriting this I forgot to press reply (I'm new here and still getting the hang of things)

 

[Ghostly]

I suggest some source of oxygen.
some of my fry died last year because of lack of it

 

[BigManAquatics]

I'm feeding them vinegar eels and micro worms. What do you mean by oxygenation? Like an air tube?

I'm feeding them vinegar eels and micro worms. What do you mean by oxygenation? Like an air tube? Sorry I'm rewriting this I forgot to press reply (I'm new here and still getting the hang of things)

Yeah, like an airstone or something. Something to move the surface water around at least a bit.

 

[glogozzo]

Yeah, like an airstone or something. Something to move the surface water around at least a bit.

I do have an airstone but the bubbles seem quite aggressive in my opinion even when the air pump is on the lowest setting. should that concern me or should I just put it in?

I suggest some source of oxygen.
some of my fry died last year because of lack of it

I have an airstone I can add to the tank but the bubbles seem quite aggressive even when the air pump is on the lowest setting, which is why I never put it in. Should I put it in regardless of the amount of bubbles that come out of it? Or can I just put the airline tube straight into the water with no airstone or sponge filter?

 

[BigManAquatics]

I do have an airstone but the bubbles seem quite aggressive in my opinion even when the air pump is on the lowest setting. should that concern me or should I just put it in?

I have an airstone I can add to the tank but the bubbles seem quite aggressive even when the air pump is on the lowest setting, which is why I never put it in. Should I put it in regardless of the amount of bubbles that come out of it? Or can I just put the airline tube straight into the water with no airstone or sponge filter?

I would get an air valve for the airline of you already don't so you can adjust the airflow even more.

 

[glogozzo]

I would get an air valve for the airline of you already don't so you can adjust the airflow even more.

Will do, I'll order some tonight and pick them up tomorrow. For the time being do you recommend I just put the air tube in partway so it creates some air flow?

 

[BigManAquatics]

Will do, I'll order some tonight and pick them up tomorrow. For the time being do you recommend I just put the air tube in partway so it creates some air flow?

Something. I think it should help them. I have lost fry and other fish to such things in the past.

 

[glogozzo]

Something. I think it should help them. I have lost fry and other fish to such things in the past.

I added the airtube and found even more dead than there usually is. I don't know if that helped or made it worse, I even used an air valve to control the flow of water

 

[glogozzo]

I've attempted 3 spawns now, each having over hundreds of babies. 2 of my spawns completely got killed out of the blue and I don't know why, and my other spawn only has 2 babies left that actually seem to be doing well. I had air line tubing in the third spawn which seemed to keep a bunch alive for awhile then they all died out of no where. pH and ammonia levels were good, but my last spawn that completely died seemed to have all died after a water change. I used prime dechlorinator so I don't know why this happened. I'm going to attempt a spawn again but please give me more advice because I continue to keep failing and I don't know what Im doing wrong. I feed the babies vinegar eels and micro worm then BBS when they're big enough. PLEASE HELP

Side note: when the fry are dead they either look like they are bloated and their eyes are popping out and they are grey in colour or they look like their eyes disappeared and their body is decaying (which I don't understand because I check every 20 mins and clean out any dead babies immediately)

 

[Coradee]

Threads have been merged, members can advise you best if they have all the information in one place.

 

[Flyfisha]

A breeder in my club recommended using the same tank of water for water changes.A 55 gallon is filled only once.

The fry containers float on top of the 55 gallon that has no. fish but a heater keeping the temperature stable of not only the change water but also the floating containers. Small water changes are just a case of pouring water out and in with a jug.


If it’s not a water parameter problem you are perhaps over feeding. I have no experience with betta fry but I have over feed apistogramma by accident.

 

[glogozzo]

A breeder in my club recommended using the same tank of water for water changes.A 55 gallon is filled only once.

The fry containers float on top of the 55 gallon that has no. fish but a heater keeping the temperature stable of not only the change water but also the floating containers. Small water changes are just a case of pouring water out and in with a jug.


If it’s not a water parameter problem you are perhaps over feeding. I have no experience with betta fry but I have over feed apistogramma by accident.

So basically you are saying that I put a breeding tank within my 20 gallon tank, like a jar floating at the top of the tank?

 

[Luckyscale2003]

I feel like it could be something infecting them. Do they show signs of acting weird before they die ie lopsided swimming, fuzz, laying on bottom for long periods of time? If they are gasping for air uptop that's a sign of low oxygen and or ammonia spike. ou may be overcrowding the tanks aswell as you mentioned hundreds if I where you next spawn divide them up into small tanks so a ammonia spike doesn't happen. PNWBettas spawns hers a lot maybe she can help

 

[Flyfisha]

Yes float the fry containers on top of their warm change water. The parameters and temperature will always be the same.

No need to worry about an ammonia spike if you are changing out water every time you walk past the tank. Changing a small amount of water 5 or 6 times each day. Of course this only works if you are able to be around the tank all day long. Are you feeding 4 small meals?


My money is on over feeding if it’s not an ammonia spike from food waste.

 

[glogozzo]

Yes float the fry containers on top of their warm change water. The parameters and temperature will always be the same.

No need to worry about an ammonia spike if you are changing out water every time you walk past the tank. Changing a small amount of water 5 or 6 times each day. Of course this only works if you are able to be around the tank all day long. Are you feeding 4 small meals?


My money is on over feeding if it’s not an ammonia spike from food waste.

I use an eyedropper to feed them food. never really thought I would be over feeding them and yes I do feed them 4 small meals. I've noticed in my BBS hatchery that most of the eggs don't hatch and they get sucked up into the eyedropper and they fry often won't eat the eggs. Could that be a problem and how could I fix it. I also have a fry net box, could I put them in there?

I feel like it could be something infecting them. Do they show signs of acting weird before they die ie lopsided swimming, fuzz, laying on bottom for long periods of time? If they are gasping for air uptop that's a sign of low oxygen and or ammonia spike. ou may be overcrowding the tanks aswell as you mentioned hundreds if I where you next spawn divide them up into small tanks so a ammonia spike doesn't happen. PNWBettas spawns hers a lot maybe she can help

No signs of fuzz, however I find the weaker ones are at the bottom of the tank and can't swim well but like I said those are the ones that just seem to not have developed properly in the embryo.

 

[Luckyscale2003]

I use an eyedropper to feed them food. never really thought I would be over feeding them and yes I do feed them 4 small meals. I've noticed in my BBS hatchery that most of the eggs don't hatch and they get sucked up into the eyedropper and they fry often won't eat the eggs. Could that be a problem and how could I fix it. I also have a fry net box, could I put them in there?

No signs of fuzz, however I find the weaker ones are at the bottom of the tank and can't swim well but like I said those are the ones that just seem to not have developed properly in the embryo.

yes the eggs are the problem they stick toeverything and they make a lot of ammonia really fast
how long are you leaving the eggs in the hatchery because even though the package says wait 24 hours its best to wait 48 hours in my opinion but the eggs will make you have a ammonia spike

 

[glogozzo]

yes the eggs are the problem they stick toeverything and they make a lot of ammonia really fast
how long are you leaving the eggs in the hatchery because even though the package says wait 24 hours its best to wait 48 hours in my opinion but the eggs will make you have a ammonia spike

I wait until 48 hours to harvest it says 90% are supposed to hatch but its more like 40% actually hatch. I did notice they started to die when I started feeding BBS. It's my fault I should've been better at cleaning the unhatched eggs out I was being stupid

 

[Flyfisha]

I have 3 tanks of apistogramma fry on the go at the moment. The little sods will eat baby brine until they pop.
Result, floating on the surface with big bellies , as was written earlier.

It is said an unhatched brine shrimp egg ( cyst ) will kill by blocking the stomach.

Further to your last post.
I use 2 litre coke bottles . After 36 hours a lot of egg shell is on the sides and bottom of the plastic bottle. I slowly pour it into another bottle. This leaves most shell behind. Waiting ten minutes and some more has floated to the surface. Most of the live bb is on the bottom after ten minutes without air.

 

[glogozzo]

I have 3 tanks of apistogramma fry on the go at the moment. The little sods will eat baby brine until they pop.
Result, floating on the surface with big bellies , as was written earlier.

It is said an unhatched brine shrimp egg ( cyst ) will kill by blocking the stomach.

Further to your last post.
I use 2 litre coke bottles . After 36 hours a lot of egg shell is on the sides and bottom of the plastic bottle. I slowly pour it into another bottle. This leaves most shell behind. Waiting ten minutes and some more has floated to the surface. Most of the live bb is on the bottom after ten minutes without air.

I tried that once but almost all of my BBS died after I took them out of my sprite bottle. Can I still feed them when they're dead or will that spike ammonia in the tank?

 

[Flyfisha]

I doubt a young fry would eat a baby brine that did not wriggle? Anything dead and still fresh could go in an adults tank . They eat froze bb that does not wriggle.

 

[Luckyscale2003]

I wait until 48 hours to harvest it says 90% are supposed to hatch but its more like 40% actually hatch. I did notice they started to die when I started feeding BBS. It's my fault I should've been better at cleaning the unhatched eggs out I was being stupid

also the eggs cannot be digested so it could also be impaction in the babies I use a small measuring spoon to scoop out eggs on top

 

[glogozzo]

also the eggs cannot be digested so it could also be impaction in the babies I use a small measuring spoon to scoop out eggs on top

Ok thanks I will try that

 

[Demeter]

I've never had issues with betta fry dying in mass. If I were to guess I'd think either your water quality is poor and/or you may have a case of velvet going on. It is worth trying to add a bit of salt to spawning/growout tanks so you can prevent any possible velvet issues.

Another problem could be starvation in the early stages after being free swimming, the bigger micro worms and even the vinegar eels can be too large for the fry. I've taken to using paramecium for first foods, works great for bettas, rasboras and rainbows. Plus they won't die and foul the water like micro worms will.

Other than that I'd say you should use a 10gal for the spawning tank so there is more water volume to work with. I use a planted and cycled 10gal with a sponge filter for my betta spawning tank.

 

[PNWBettas]

What is your water change schedule like when they are young. My guess would be water quality as well. Some people don’t change the water for the first month since that are so sensitive. I do once or twice but I’m extremely careful with how I do it. I don’t do more then 10% at a time. My replacement water is aged and dechlorinated, I make sure it’s within 1 degree of the tank, and I replace it with a drip acclimation system to prevent shock.

when you feed there should be no left over food on the bottom of the tank after about 30 ish min. If there is you might be over feeding. If I accidentally do, I remove it with a turkey baster or airline tubing.

my last question would be, have you tested your water in your spawn tank? If so what are the parameters

 

[Cherryshrimp420]

Green water is probably the best way to feed them right after birth... Once they get bigger you can feed microworms or vinegar eels

 

[glogozzo]

What is your water change schedule like when they are young. My guess would be water quality as well. Some people don’t change the water for the first month since that are so sensitive. I do once or twice but I’m extremely careful with how I do it. I don’t do more then 10% at a time. My replacement water is aged and dechlorinated, I make sure it’s within 1 degree of the tank, and I replace it with a drip acclimation system to prevent shock.

when you feed there should be no left over food on the bottom of the tank after about 30 ish min. If there is you might be over feeding. If I accidentally do, I remove it with a turkey baster or airline tubing.

my last question would be, have you tested your water in your spawn tank? If so what are the parameters

I do a little water change every day through a drip line. And when you say your water is aged, for how long and is it straight from the tap or is it from a matured water tank? Secondly, do you recommend I don't change the water for a month or how often should I do it because I read that it is very important to keep the water clean which is why I have been doing small water changes everyday. Since my spawn died I haven't tested parameters for a week, but the last parameters were the pH was 7 and ammonia was 0ppm-0.25ppm.

Also would like to say I'm a huge fan of you tiktok account and I really appreciate getting some help from someone with so much experience. Would love to buy one of your babies in the future if you ship to Canada. Thanks so much for the help I really really really appreciate it.

Green water is probably the best way to feed them right after birth... Once they get bigger you can feed microworms or vinegar eels

what is green water?

 

[PNWBettas]

I do a little water change every day through a drip line. And when you say your water is aged, for how long and is it straight from the tap or is it from a matured water tank? Secondly, do you recommend I don't change the water for a month or how often should I do it because I read that it is very important to keep the water clean which is why I have been doing small water changes everyday. Since my spawn died I haven't tested parameters for a week, but the last parameters were the pH was 7 and ammonia was 0ppm-0.25ppm.

Also would like to say I'm a huge fan of you tiktok account and I really appreciate getting some help from someone with so much experience. Would love to buy one of your babies in the future if you ship to Canada. Thanks so much for the help I really really really appreciate it.

what is green water?

I let it sit out for 24 hr then re-heat it before I add it back into my fry tank. I still add some dechlorinator for any heavy metals. Recently I’ve actually been keeping my replacement water in a 32 gal reservoir that stays heated all the time and has a UV sterilizer, but that’s only been like the last week or so.

The fry may be sensitive to the 0.25 ppm of ammonia. If you do spawn again I would use lots of tannins. Not only do they help with breeding and growing out fry, but they lower the pH. A lower ph means most of that ammonia becomes ammonium, which won’t harm your fish like ammonia does.

I probably wouldn’t do water changes so often as well. I mostly clean up the bottom of the tank for the first week, and by week 2 I start doing very small water change, maybe 1-2 a week. Then increase from there.

 

[The_fishy]

I wait until 48 hours to harvest it says 90% are supposed to hatch but its more like 40% actually hatch. I did notice they started to die when I started feeding BBS. It's my fault I should've been better at cleaning the unhatched eggs out I was being stupid

I usually turn off the bubbler in the hatchery, wait a little for the eggs to float to the top, then go for the bbs.

 

[Flyfisha]

I think it would be important to ascertain / clarify the size of the fry tank and it’s volume. Both on day one and as water is added.
When floating a container with day old I am referring to less than 2 litres/1/2 gallon. Clearly this needs fresh water more often than a glass tank.
Starting a glass tank with just a few inches of water and slowly adding to it is another option. One would need a heated fish room.

I have found hang on front breeding boxes of some use for small numbers of fry. This gives a small floor to clean but a large volume of water. It has the advantage of a cycled filter running in the water without the fry having any access.

Each tank volume needs to be treated differently. What works for a 20 gallon with a 3 inches of water is different to a floating tray of 200ml and fry.