I was planning on getting either or anyway but wanted to know if it's a sign they'll have something to graze on when I'm not feeding as I mostly have diatom algae in the tank which idk if they will eat either.No, and please don't get any animals for that purpose.
If you feel disturbed by it, just remove it with a paper towel. Even your bare hand will suffice.
Oh this can be answered quickly. If the tank is running less than 6 months, it's not ready for Otos. And plecos are not exclusively aufwuchs eaters.I was planning on getting either or anyway but wanted to know if it's a sign they'll have something to graze on when I'm not feeding as I mostly have diatom algae in the tank which idk if they will eat either.
Unless this is a breeding tank this is overkill. Shooting sparrows with a cannon if you will.Hydra.
Kill it.
Many use Fenbendazole commonly found in dog dewormers.
Ask if you want links and directions to safely kill them.
Regardless of if there is any danger to small fry, the hydra will likely not just die off without help.Unless this is a breeding tank this is overkill. Shooting sparrows with a cannon.
What do they do apart from looking bad?Hydra.
Kill it.
Many use Fenbendazole commonly found in dog dewormers.
Ask if you want links and directions to safely kill them.
They eat fish fry and shrimplets, but that's only relevant if you breed fish or inverts and aim for high yields from a breeding project.What do they do apart from looking bad?
They are miniature fresh water anemones that try to eat everything they touch by stinging it first.What do they do apart from looking bad?
I don't have a dewormer. Which would you recommend?I have never seen a fish eat hydra.
When you dose your normal deworming routine it will kill most of them in 40 minutes.
It's not even always necessary. I'd only use one when getting wild caught fish or if feeding wild caught live food regularly.I don't have a dewormer. Which would you recommend?
I don't have a dewormer. Which would you recommend?

Does this harm anything else? Beneficial bacteria, snails, blackworms living in substrate?View attachment 868317
You will only need 1 gram, one pouch from smallest pack most box/pet stores sell.
You mix 1 gram with 200ml water to make the 'solution'.
The you dose 20ml of the mixed solution per 10 g of tank.
You should see it work quick and be able to change water and hopefully be done with them in 3 days without a second treatment if caught early enough.
I feed my home cultured blackworms and bbs that's it. Still necessary?It's not even always necessary. I'd only use one when getting wild caught fish or if feeding live food regularly.
Snails and blackworms probably, the microfauna in the filter media stays unphased.Does this harm anything else? Beneficial bacteria, snails, blackworms living in substrate?
Not at all.I feed my home cultured blackworms and bbs that's it. Still necessary?
Doesn't look like what I got if I'm honest. Could just be very small hydra though and therefore it looks different
It doesnt look like Hydra to me either. Look up the Vorticella MacZ mentioned.Doesn't look like what I got if I'm honest. Could just be very small hydra though and therefore it looks different
Yeah, fits the bill.Those ones would be Zoothamnium, very similar to Vorticella. Both are ciliates.
Thought one or the other. Always mix them up.Those ones would be Zoothamnium, very similar to Vorticella. Both are ciliates.
Are these harmful? If so what do I do to get rid of them?Those ones would be Zoothamnium, very similar to Vorticella. Both are ciliates.
No not harmful. Clean the tank a little more than normal and it should go away.Are these harmful? If so what do I do to get rid of them?
Yeah, it's made more difficult by the fact that many pictures of Vorticella online are just misidentified Zoothamnium. The latter is actually far more commonly seen posted on forums.Always mix them up.
It can, but for these guys it really isn't needed. They'll usually pop up when there is a ready supply of bacteria and algae to filter from the water. So they don't usually last too long, water changes over time tend to cause them to vanish on their own.So a quick search suggests same Fenbendazole will clean them up for you Noam ?
They looked like single stalks to me not trees. Thats why I thought Vort.Yeah, it's made more difficult by the fact that many pictures of Vorticella online are just misidentified Zoothamnium. The latter is actually far more commonly seen posted on forums.
Just remember that if there are multiple zooids branching from a single stem, like a tree, then it's Zoothamnium. Or Carchesium. But many species between the two can look very similar, so easiest just to say Zoothamnium. Pic
Each vorticella zooid only has a single stalk. Colonies aren't actually connected. So you'll usually just see a bunch of dots that cover a wider area. Pic
It can, but for these guys it really isn't needed. They'll usually pop up when there is a ready supply of bacteria and algae to filter from the water. So they don't usually last too long, water changes over time tend to cause them to vanish on their own.
Turns out I do have hydra in my tank. They started spreading among the leaves of my plants but none are on the glass. I stopped feeding live food for now and I ordered some no planaria as I heard that is good for hydra as well. How have you treated for hydra?They are miniature fresh water anemones that try to eat everything they touch by stinging it first.
They will multiply quickly if conditions are right and there is no real ' safe and effective' way to mechanically remove them.
Some pests whether large or small just need removing IMO
They multiply by fission, meaning when you clean your glass and scrape them into pieces each piece will become a new one.

I will take most of my snails out just in case.No planeria will work on hydra. I would read if it will harm snails though.
If you do don't put them in for awhile. Just in caseI will take most of my snails out just in case.
Can I just put activated carbon in my filter after the treatment is done?No planaria will kill snails. Keep them out until you’re confident you’ve done over 100% water changes .. as in 4x 50%.