Plz help me Severe fin rot getting worse!

GingerV513

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Sorry for the long post-
My poor betta has severed fin rot. I noticed this about two month ago (a month after getting him) and I started with a full tank clean out, the parameters all along were perfect, tank cycled ect. I think he injured it on driftwood and it started from there.
After it only got worse I put him in a 1.5gal quarantine tank and treated him with aquarium salt for 10 days and he seemed a bit better. It was hard to tell but it wasn’t getting worse. I then put him back in his clean tank with all sharp decor removed.
A few days later I noticed small holes in his fins and the next day his fin was completely ripped down to where the hole was and he had visible fungus. At this point I was panicking and moved him to quarantine again and treated him with a combination of api fungus cure for the full treatment per instructions And bettfix (I know people say this is dangerous but I’m desperate). After these treatments were done he is still getting worse.
The day they were complete I did 90% water change with stress coat added (July 19). That day he became super lethargic. Sitting at the bottom of the tank and not eating. Rarely coming up for air and not reacting much. Starting the 20th I began using Maracyn 2 per instructions and he is still lethargic, not eating, and his tail looks worse.
He has an air stone in the tank, no filter (his tail is too sensitive), 1.5 quarantine take. I was doing water changes unless the medicine says not to, which it does, so I add a little prime daily. He doesn’t produce much waste anyway.
Does anyone have advice or can help me at all? Words of encouragement? I love him so much!!
 

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I would put a low flow filter in there. Clean water is really key for the healing process. Since you've already tried different medications I'd try to go to more hollistic approaches, now this is a really severe case so I'm not sure how quickly it'll start healing.

I'd do daily or every other day 50% water changes, the clean water will encourage fin regrowth. I'd add more IAL, I like to break them up a bit into 3-4 pieces, this really helps the tannins to release in the water faster. I'd do this a couple weeks, he needs a break from the meds. If after a couple weeks he still looks like he needs meds I'd do a good bacterial medication, I prefer maracyn 2 or Furan 2. He'll need a couple week break tho to be ready for that.

Try feeding him some frozen foods, getting his strength up is really going to be key to his recovery.
 

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You need some heavily tinted Tannin Tea extract to see improvement but its also very concerning he doesnt have a filter.. you have no cycle if you have no filter.
 
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  • #4
You need some heavily tinted Tannin Tea extract to see improvement but its also very concerning he doesnt have a filter.. you have no cycle if you have no filter.
That’s just in his quarantine tank with no filter his usual tank has one
 
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  • #5
You need some heavily tinted Tannin Tea extract to see improvement but its also very concerning he doesnt have a filter.. you have no cycle if you have no filter.
How many leaves/water would you suggest for the tea?
 
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  • #6
I would put a low flow filter in there. Clean water is really key for the healing process. Since you've already tried different medications I'd try to go to more hollistic approaches, now this is a really severe case so I'm not sure how quickly it'll start healing.

I'd do daily or every other day 50% water changes, the clean water will encourage fin regrowth. I'd add more IAL, I like to break them up a bit into 3-4 pieces, this really helps the tannins to release in the water faster. I'd do this a couple weeks, he needs a break from the meds. If after a couple weeks he still looks like he needs meds I'd do a good bacterial medication, I prefer maracyn 2 or Furan 2. He'll need a couple week break tho to be ready for that.

Try feeding him some frozen foods, getting his strength up is really going to be key to his recovery.
It sucks because he literally won’t touch freeze dried or frozen blood worms and likes frozen brine shrimp ok but prefers his pellets over both
 

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It sucks because he literally won’t touch freeze dried or frozen blood worms and likes frozen brine shrimp ok but prefers his pellets over both

What kind of pellet is it? If its a really high quality pellet that's fine keep feeding that. The frozen food usually just is better because its not full of fillers.
 
When you state that you put him into quarantine, what is his normal tank and is he alone in that one?
As e_watson09 mentioned, a filter would be good, sponge filters come to mind.
Clean water, some stress guard, IAL and very tasty food.
 
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  • #9
What kind of pellet is it? If its a really high quality pellet that's fine keep feeding that. The frozen food usually just is better because its not full of fillers.
Omega one.
 
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  • #10
When you state that you put him into quarantine, what is his normal tank and is he alone in that one?
As e_watson09 mentioned, a filter would be good, sponge filters come to mind.
Clean water, some stress guard, IAL and very tasty food.
His normal tank is heavily planted 5 gallon, heated to 78, alone but with bladder snails and 2 nerites. I’m still treating with Maracyn 2 for 2 more days. Do you think I should do water changes before I add the daily treatment although it doesn’t recommend it? I’ll look in to getting a sponge filter.
 
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  • #11
His normal tank is heavily planted 5 gallon, heated to 78, alone but with bladder snails and 2 nerites. I’m still treating with Maracyn 2 for 2 more days. Do you think I should do water changes before I add the daily treatment although it doesn’t recommend it? I’ll look in to getting a sponge filter.
I’m only seeing sponge filters for up to 5 gallon which seems a little much for my 1.5 gallon?
 

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If all that’s in his tank are some snails I would move him back to the 5 gal. Then move the snails into the 1.5 temporary when doing meds that arnt snail safe. My issue with treating fin rot in small tanks is you are normally working against yourself. Fin rot is due to poor water quality which will be hard to deal with in such a small tank.

Do you have a water test kit? Do you know the Parameters within his normal tank? Ideally it’s cycled, in which case that would be a better place for him to recover and get treatments.
 
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  • #13
If all that’s in his tank are some snails I would move him back to the 5 gal. Then move the snails into the 1.5 temporary when doing meds that arnt snail safe. My issue with treating fin rot in small tanks is you are normally working against yourself. Fin rot is due to poor water quality which will be hard to deal with in such a small tank.

Do you have a water test kit? Do you know the Parameters within his normal tank? Ideally it’s cycled, in which case that would be a better place for him to recover and get treatments.
The only problem is I guess Maracyn 2 kills beneficial bacteria. When I finish the treatment on Saturday, I’ll put him back in the 5 gallon I guess
 
Sponge filters really run based on air, so you can reduce the flow as needed of a 5g sponge filter just fine in a 1.5g tank. The issue tho will be that the new filter isn't cycled either which again is working against you.

I'd stop medications and put him back in his cycled tank. Treat with IAL and water changes a while and see how it goes. It wouldn't hurt to get a sponge filter and add it to the tank that way if you need the quarantine tank again you have a precycled filter to add.

Fin rot really gets worst with poor water conditions. So having him in an uncycled nano tank really isn't doing you any favors in treating him, its creating the perfect storm and keeping things worst honestly.
 
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  • #17
Sponge filters really run based on air, so you can reduce the flow as needed of a 5g sponge filter just fine in a 1.5g tank. The issue tho will be that the new filter isn't cycled either which again is working against you.

I'd stop medications and put him back in his cycled tank. Treat with IAL and water changes a while and see how it goes. It wouldn't hurt to get a sponge filter and add it to the tank that way if you need the quarantine tank again you have a precycled filter to add.

Fin rot really gets worst with poor water conditions. So having him in an uncycled nano tank really isn't doing you any favors in treating him, its creating the perfect storm and keeping things worst honestly.
I just moved soon before his case got serious and I just tested all my tap water and the qt tank I just did a 90% water change in and the water out of my pur water filter and it’s all at .5.........
 
My tap water also has ammonia. It’s no an issue if you use prime to dechlorinate and have a cycled tank. The ammonia will be “eaten up” by the time it’s no longer detoxified by prime
 
Unfortunately I think you exasperated the issue by doing so many things. Especially putting him into an unfiltered 1.5 gallon tank. I dont say that to make you feel bad. Im saying it as a word of caution for the future if you ever face this again.

Fin rot is typically very easily resolved with no medication and just daily water changes. You caused added stress by using salt and medication and moving him to a smaller uncycled and unfiltered tank.

And I mean no criticism at all!!!! You clearly care for your fish very much and wanted to do whatever you could to make him better. But unfortunately you went down the wrong path in my opinion. So in the future, fin rot can be easily avoided with good water care. And it can be resolved with pristine water.

As for your ammonia in your tap...thats quite common unfortunately. I also have .5ppm ammonia in my tap. And I do 50% daily water changes on my angelfish grow out tanks with no issues. An established cycled filter full of beneficial bacteria can eat up that ammonia in less than 24 hours. And i use seachem prime as my dechlorinator which detoxifies that ammonia during that 24 hours.

I also recommend he be put back into the heated and filtered and oxygenated 5g. There is zero reason to move him to a smaller hospital tank if he was the only fish in the tank.

Good luck with him! I wish you the best!
 
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  • #20
My tap water also has ammonia. It’s no an issue if you use prime to dechlorinate and have a cycled tank. The ammonia will be “eaten up” by the time it’s no longer detoxified by prime
Ok thanks.
 
Sponge filters really run based on air, so you can reduce the flow as needed of a 5g sponge filter just fine in a 1.5g tank. The issue tho will be that the new filter isn't cycled either which again is working against you.

I'd stop medications and put him back in his cycled tank. Treat with IAL and water changes a while and see how it goes. It wouldn't hurt to get a sponge filter and add it to the tank that way if you need the quarantine tank again you have a precycled filter to add.

Fin rot really gets worst with poor water conditions. So having him in an uncycled nano tank really isn't doing you any favors in treating him, its creating the perfect storm and keeping things worst honestly.
And most likely add some stress to it as well. I think the 5gl would be the safe haven for him.
 

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His normal tank is heavily planted 5 gallon, heated to 78, alone but with bladder snails and 2 nerites. I’m still treating with Maracyn 2 for 2 more days. Do you think I should do water changes before I add the daily treatment although it doesn’t recommend it? I’ll look in to getting a sponge filter.
I may have missed this in all the postings, but what kind of filtration system do you have on your 5gl tank? I am just saying as the internal filter that came with my 5gl tank really stressed my Betta big time. I did not realize it for some time, until the fins started tearing. I moved to a sponge filter, kind of antiquated and low tech. But the minimal flow rate is very much appreciated by the Betta. They are easily hidden specifically in a heavily planted tank.
 
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  • #23
I may have missed this in all the postings, but what kind of filtration system do you have on your 5gl tank? I am just saying as the internal filter that came with my 5gl tank really stressed my Betta big time. I did not realize it for some time, until the fins started tearing. I moved to a sponge filter, kind of antiquated and low tech. But the minimal flow rate is very much appreciated by the Betta. They are easily hidden specifically in a heavily planted tank.
I had the internal one in my fish tank which he loved and would sleep against, which definitely did not help the problem so I ended up getting a hang on back which doesn’t add any extreme current at all.
 
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  • #24
Unfortunately I think you exasperated the issue by doing so many things. Especially putting him into an unfiltered 1.5 gallon tank. I dont say that to make you feel bad. Im saying it as a word of caution for the future if you ever face this again.

Fin rot is typically very easily resolved with no medication and just daily water changes. You caused added stress by using salt and medication and moving him to a smaller uncycled and unfiltered tank.

And I mean no criticism at all!!!! You clearly care for your fish very much and wanted to do whatever you could to make him better. But unfortunately you went down the wrong path in my opinion. So in the future, fin rot can be easily avoided with good water care. And it can be resolved with pristine water.

As for your ammonia in your tap...thats quite common unfortunately. I also have .5ppm ammonia in my tap. And I do 50% daily water changes on my angelfish grow out tanks with no issues. An established cycled filter full of beneficial bacteria can eat up that ammonia in less than 24 hours. And i use seachem prime as my dechlorinator which detoxifies that ammonia during that 24 hours.

I also recommend he be put back into the heated and filtered and oxygenated 5g. There is zero reason to move him to a smaller hospital tank if he was the only fish in the tank.

Good luck with him! I wish you the best!
I did the salt then daily water changes for two weeks and then it fell apart completely. Now I’m confused because all the treatments say to finish them completely. I think he’d be happier in the bigger tank though. Maybe I’ll add some extra almond leaves....
 
I had the internal one in my fish tank which he loved and would sleep against, which definitely did not help the problem so I ended up getting a hang on back which doesn’t add any extreme current at all.

Did you have a sponge covering the intake of the filter?
 
How many leaves/water would you suggest for the tea?

I take about 2 IAL, seed pods , alder cones and Rooibos tea, boil on high for 5mins and let sit to cool. Make sure you condition the tea before adding. You need the water tinted very brown for any affects.

All he needs is heavy Tannin, daily clean water and no stress! I would quit with the medication and move him back to the 5gal. It wont be helpful trying to treat fin rot, thats caused by poor water quailty, by just letting him sit in all his waste thats building up from having no cycled filter.
20200704_025929.jpg
 
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  • #27
I take about 2 IAL, seed pods , alder cones and Rooibos tea, boil on high for 5mins and let sit to cool. Make sure you condition the tea before adding. You need the water tinted very brown for any affects.

All he needs is not heavy Tannin, daily clean water and no stress! I would quit with the medication and move him back to the 5gal. It wont be helpful trying to treat fin rot, thats caused by poor water quailty, by just letting him sit in all his waste thats building up from having no cycled filter.
View attachment 716716
All I have is IALs right now, would that work? I boiled some and have the brown water I can add
 
All I have is IALs right now, would that work? I boiled some and have the brown water I can add

It may for you, but not in my experience. You will need all the Tannin you can get leeched from botanicals. I would get more if you could. If not then you need to use all your leaves and boil them till they are mush, so they fully break down and leech the tannin. I suggest ordering from TanninAquatics asap.
 
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