Nitrate Issues

21Savage

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I am fairly new to the fish keeping hobby, about 3 months. I currently own a 10 gal tank with 1 red tail shark and 2 brilliant rasboras. Also it has 9 anacharis, 6 water wisteria, and 2 crypts. All of these plants are doing well. The reason I got a tank was to get KuhlI Loaches. But every time I go to my local fish store and they test my water they say that the nitrates are dangerously high and advise me not to buy any more fish at the moment. I have no idea why the nitrates would be high as I feed literally one flake of fish food per day, I change 25% of the water every other day (siphoning the substrate also). I told this to the store and they advised I buy API quick start, which I have used with no success. I use API stress coat plus as water conditioner. And my sink water has no nitrates. I am very confused and this is throwing me off of buying my 220 gallon that I have been thinking about since I got the 10. Thank you in advance for any feedback!
 

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Dont hesitate getting the 220 theyre much easier to keep because its a larger ecosystem and is less likely to have quick changes in parameters. As for nitrates the only thing I can think of is that since you are overstocked with that red tailed shark, the combined waste allows for high nitrates because of the waste.
 

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Welcome to the forum

Did they give you the exact nitrate reading? What about ammonia and nitrite? Also, are you vacuuming the substrate at least weekly? What about rinsing your media in removed tank water? Lots of detritus can build up in both places causing high nitrates if you don't clean them regularly.

I would also get your own test kit instead of relying on the store to test for you esp if they use test strips. API Master Test Kit is the one most recommended here.

I wouldn't hesitate going for a bigger tank regardless. An RTS and the rasboras need a 55 gallon minimum.
 
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  • #5
It is a small red tail so I don't know about being overstocked. I vacuum substrate every 3 days. I have never washed my media as I have no idea how to take my filter apart, I will look into it thank hou

And mike I am in contact with glasscages you think it's a good idea?
 
So they didn't give you the exact nitrate reading? Rather than going by what the store tells you (esp if they used test strips), I'd get your own test kit. If you never rinsed your media before, that could be a contributor.
 

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  • #7
No they did not give me an exact nitrate reading and I ordered a test kit coming soon! Do you think that it will be fine if I wash the media?
 
And mike I am in contact with glasscages you think it's a good idea?
Yeah go for it. Then you can move the rts and rasboras over to it. You could even turn your 10 gal into a shrimp tank and sell the baby shrimps for a profit. When you get the new tank id recommend that you consult the forum members about stocking so that you know for sure everything will be good. I did the same thing when I got my 45.
 
Yes, as long as you rinse it in removed tank water or in dechlorinated tap water. I rinse mine each week with no issues.
 
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  • #10
Thank you so much! I am a bit skeptical that my nitrates are high, do you think they could be taking me for a ride at my LFS to try to get some extra money out of me?
 
Yes, especially since API Quick Start does nothing to decrease nitrates. It's a bacteria supplement and not even a good one at that. If you haven't used it yet, I would return it and spend your money on the API master test kit.

Edit: Never mind, just re-read and saw you did use the QS. Don't know if you're able to return it now but I wouldn't bother using it anymore.
 

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  • #12
Thank you so much! This is such a great community and I'm glad I joined I will test my water as soon as my kit arrives and then take it to them and see if they are lying

Thank you mike and el
 
Make sure to read the directions of the kit carefully and follow them directly, ESPECIALLY the nitrate.
 
I am a beginner in fish keeping too so I can offer you any good advice yet but I would go with what everybody says here in the thread and also it would be a good idea if you could get one of your test kits so you could regularly conduct tests on your own.
 
Make sure to read the directions of the kit carefully and follow them directly, ESPECIALLY the nitrate.
Lol I hate doing the nitrate one
 
Lol I hate doing the nitrate one
I hate doin the test all together being a bit color blind. You can imagine the confusion on my face while tryna match the colors.
 
Shake the life out of nitrate bottles, especially #2. Gives me a work out! Also wait about 5 minutes for the final color.
 
A few people take a picture of the test and ask for our opinions, If you have a hard time reading the tests.
 

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A few people take a picture of the test and ask for our opinions, If you have a hard time reading the tests.
Did that a couple times. Or I just asked my gf to read it for me. But now my tank is cycled and I got a good feel for it, I don't have to test it anymore unless something crazy happens
 
I hate doin the test all together being a bit color blind. You can imagine the confusion on my face while tryna match the colors.
Yeah my dad is color blind too. He never did tests in his tanks but they were all very successful. This was in the 80's and 90's though. I don't think there were test kits then
 
For ammonia and nitrite, I figure if you're trying to discern the color between the top two lowest values (0 and .25 ppm), it should be ok, dose some Prime for insurance. Anything below that you may as well do a WC cuz you know it's not good for your fish.
 
Yeah my dad is color blind too. He never did tests in his tanks but they were all very successful. This was in the 80's and 90's though. I don't think there were test kits then

They did have test kits way back then in the olden days.
 
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  • #27
My test kit just came in, my nitrates tested at what looks like 30 ppm. I'll attach a picture. Should I be worried?

8dfc932562a40ab163474c3bcfdf3905.jpg

Also it looks like there was an oil spill on top of my tank...
 
Under 40ppm is not too bad. Keeping it under 20 is better. I would test your tap for nitrates to see if any of that is coming from your water source. What's the pH, ammonia and nitrite out of the tank?

The oily film on the surface is most likely from the fish food. If you have enough surface agitation from the filter output, it should break that up easily.
 
The oil could also be from reaching your hand in without removing all of the soap from washing your hands.
 
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  • #30
So it should be fine as it is right now? I will test my tap tonight and get bad to you. What do you mean by out of the tank? Are you talking about tap water? And thanks aquatic
 
Test all the parameters out of the tap as well as the tank since you only gave us your tank nitrates.
 

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  • #32
Tap
Nitrates- 0ppm

Tank
Ph- 7.6
Ammonia-0ppm
Nitrites- .3ppm
Nitrates- 30ppm

This truly baffles me as I do a 30% water change every other day. I just cleaned my filter with old tank water and it was disgusting btw.
 
ImageUploadedByFish Lore Aquarium Fish Forum1484712975.892812.jpg is this what you're talking about? Like I said, just one small Betta fish in my 5 gallon with overfiltration still builds up nitrates quickly.
 
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  • #34
Yes it seems to have disappeared though after I did the paper towel treatment
 
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  • #35
Tap
Nitrates- 0ppm

Tank
Ph- 7.6
Ammonia-0ppm
Nitrites- .3ppm
Nitrates- 30ppm

This truly baffles me as I do a 30% water change every other day. I just cleaned my filter with old tank water and it was disgusting btw.

Did you guys see this?
 
I am fairly new to the fish keeping hobby, about 3 months. I currently own a 10 gal tank with 1 red tail shark and 2 brilliant rasboras. Also it has 9 anacharis, 6 water wisteria, and 2 crypts. All of these plants are doing well. The reason I got a tank was to get KuhlI Loaches. But every time I go to my local fish store and they test my water they say that the nitrates are dangerously high and advise me not to buy any more fish at the moment. I have no idea why the nitrates would be high as I feed literally one flake of fish food per day, I change 25% of the water every other day (siphoning the substrate also). I told this to the store and they advised I buy API quick start, which I have used with no success. I use API stress coat plus as water conditioner. And my sink water has no nitrates. I am very confused and this is throwing me off of buying my 220 gallon that I have been thinking about since I got the 10. Thank you in advance for any feedback!
Going from a 10 to a 220 gallon is NOT a good idea. Start small. Work your way up. Learn how to test your own water. Maybe the amount of water changes your doing isn't letting the aquarium cycle properly.
 
  • Thread Starter
  • #38
Going from a 10 to a 220 gallon is NOT a good idea. Start small. Work your way up. Learn how to test your own water. Maybe the amount of water changes your doing isn't letting the aquarium cycle properly.

I know how to test my water, I let my aquarium cycle before I put my fish in... I do not appreciate the condescending tone
 
I think you are just fine making the jump to 220 gallons from the 10.
Just practice practice practice with this 10, become an expert on all the ins and outs and then upgrade!

I actually feel larger tanks are easier to maintain. Water quality is easier to maintain anyway. Although, I have never had a tank bigger than 75 gallons. I'm jealous! I'd love to go that huge!

And even if the frequent water changes are slowing down your cycle....So what? Because they are necessary since you have fish in there.

Good luck with everything. You are getting some great advice. Fishlore is a great community and you won't regret joining!!
 
Kind of hard to tell from the picture but I think your nitrates are even lower. Somewhere around 10ppm.

Can you post a picture of the nitrite vial? 0.3 is a weird result.

And I'm with bizaliz, larger tanks are easier to maintain. You have more volume to dilute the wastes and take a bit more effort to overstock! On the other hand, I would have said the same thing about big tanks being harder when I started out, too. Once you get the basics you just have to scale up your water changes
 
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  • #41
Okay! I will post the nitrites. Thank you and el for the great advice
 

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Yowzers! If your camera's colour capture is accurate your nitrites are way above 0.3! I would say it matches the 2.0ppm colour chip on the card, or possibly even the 5.0ppm.

Get those numbers down!
 
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  • #44
Yea it spiked just did a 50% water change. On a good note the nitrates are down which was my main goal
 
Yeah that looks like you're gonna need a larger water change at one time. Get it down all the way to 80% and see what it tests afterward. Nitrates are not the concern right now as it's less toxic than the other two.

I'd try to get that larger tank sooner than later.
 
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  • #46
Can't right now as I'm in DC! Left this morning for the inauguration
 
When I built my 55 gallon tank I was struggling for the first 4 months controlling Nitrates and Nitrites. Ammonia was always fine. The solution for me was dumping the original canister filter media - replaced the OEM biomedia with something more effective, replaced an entire tray of carbon with Seachem Matrix, and replaced the 2nd tray of carbon with Seachem Purigen. 3 days later...Yes only 3 days later the Nitrates and Nitrates dropped to safe levels (almost 0) and have remained there since.

I have never had any luck with Carbon despite changing it each month. Good by and good riddance.
 
I don't use carbon either but dumping your biomedia kind of defeats the purpose of cycling.
 
I don't use carbon either but dumping your biomedia kind of defeats the purpose of cycling.

Small price to have paid since the tank wasn't cycling with the OEM cheap garbage anyhow. I used Seachem Stability to help accelerate growth.

Today everything is perfect and the lessoned learned was media quality does matter, I found out the hard way.
 

Random Great Topic!

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