Less water changes in indoor pond possible?

aquamist666

Active Member
Member
Messages
131
I’m building an indoor pond for large South American cichlids. The pond will be around 70 gallons. I plan to use the largest hang on back filter that Marineland has. How often do I have to do water changes at the minimum and how much of the water needs to be replaced? Can I just add ammonia remover/neutralizer media in the filter to extend the time of water changes?
 

Advertisement
I’m building an indoor pond for large South American cichlids. The pond will be around 70 gallons. I plan to use the largest hang on back filter that Marineland has. How often do I have to do water changes at the minimum and how much of the water needs to be replaced? Can I just add ammonia remover/neutralizer media in the filter to extend the time of water changes?
Personally I don’t think there’s a substitute for regular water changes because everything that enters a closed system remains in it unless it is physically removed and substances that are consumed run out if not replenished.

Ammonia is so far from being the main thing to worry about, it would barely make my list. So long as there is a functional cycle and the filter is cleaned often enough that it functions properly, there shouldn’t be any ammonia or nitrite, which is a greater concern than ammonia in most cases.

It is Nitrates that need to be removed one way or another and minerals like calcium & magnesium need to be replenished at the very least.
 

Advertisement
  • Thread Starter
  • #3
Personally I don’t think there’s a substitute for regular water changes because everything that enters a closed system remains in it unless it is physically removed and substances that are consumed run out if not replenished.

Ammonia is so far from being the main thing to worry about, it would barely make my list. So long as there is a functional cycle and the filter is cleaned often enough that it functions properly, there shouldn’t be any ammonia or nitrite, which is a greater concern than ammonia in most cases.

It is Nitrates that need to be removed one way or another and minerals like calcium & magnesium need to be replenished at the very least.
I have the python hose that connects to my bathroom faucet. Do I need to vacuum the sand? Can I just replace only the water without vacuuming the sand?
 
Depending on your definition of large South American Cichlids, 70 gallons might be insufficient.
 
The Convicts are fine in a 70 gal.
If the other listed Cichlids are Juveniles, they might be okay short term, but will eventually outgrow the tank.

Convicts are very proficient breeders. It might be a good idea not to keep a mated pair.
 

Advertisement
While convict cichlids remain rather small, they are quite scrappy. I had an albino (pink) convict that had to be kept in solitary confinement as it would attack anything else in the same tank. In a large tank with other inhabitants that are larger, they might do OK.

Tilapia are farmed to be used as a food fish. They can get anywhere from 5-10 pounds in weight and 6-10 inches in length. You might be able to keep one or two in your 70 gallon pond if they are the only fish present. They are better suited for a very large pond.
 
Butterkoferi grow big too and are said to be vicious.
 
Tilapia aren’t South American either not that it matters, given the size they get to.
 
  • Thread Starter
  • #10
If I have two 275 gph Marineland filters with Fluval ammonia remover media, can I just do one 40% water change a month? My indoor pond is about 70 gallons and I plan to keep cichlids in it.
 
The amount of monthly water changes is up to you.
After many decades of fishkeeping experience. Employing much more than adequate filtration, I always change between 30% - 50% of the water of each tank weekly.

Maintaining the big waste producing Cichlids you plan to keep, I recommend you follow a similar weekly water change schedule.
 
Tetra, which is the world's largest manufacture of aquarium products, recommends doing a 30% water change every 30 days.

The frequency required really depends upon the stocking density, the presence of live plants, etc. I have a very heavily planted tank that only gets infrequent water changes as I am getting too old to lug jugs of water from my RO system in the basement up to the main floor. If you can use tap water, it is a lot easier. My tap water is terrible for fish, so I have to mix RO water and Seachem Equilibrium.

Trying to keep live plants in an aquarium with cichlids can be a challenge. Many love to uproot plants. Thus, do not count on plants purifying your water. That leaves water changes as a required part of your maintenance program..
 
Of course, a lot depends on the bio load of one's tank.
My tanks are jammed full of fish. The 120 gal tank alone has approximately 60 fish, mostly Barbs and Loaches.

If I were to go with the Tetra company's recommendation of making only a 30% monthly water change, things would likely become stinky and toxic pretty quick.
I change out 100+% of the water monthly, cleaning the filters two or three times a year.

The Tetra company wants to sell products and increase the customer base. Instructing potential newbies that 100% of their tank water needs to be changed monthly sounds rather intimidating, as compared to changing a modest 30% monthly. Lol.
 

Advertisement




Back
Top Bottom