Getting desperate! constantly cloudy water

Hi Dechi

I meant to ask, regarding the copper..

(the only reason I noticed it was when it came up on the test strip) but if those strips aren't entirely accurate, should I do a different test to recheck before even thinking of adding Cuprisorb if it is present?

I don't want to tinker and go back the way again just when I'm getting somewhere
Don’t add anything if you’re not sure copper is present. You’re trying to bring stability to your tank. If you have reason to believe there is copper in your tap water, you could try to fix it first (using only water from the tap) and if your test comes back negative after fixing it, then it means you do have copper in the tank and it’s coming from your tap water.

It could also be coming from your equipment so you need to inspect it for any part containing copper that might be leaching into the water. If that’s the case, remove it and it’s taken care of. Your WC will do the rest.

Have you tested again after your 80% WC ? What doest the test say ?

Inverts are very sensitive to copper so if you have some and they are doing fine, I wouldn’t worry about it. We need to be careful too with test results coming from strips.

If you can’t find any definite answer, I would just be mindful of it and observe, but I wouldn’t do anything to the tank for now.
 

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  • #52
Don’t add anything if you’re not sure copper is present. You’re trying to bring stability to your tank. If you have reason to believe there is copper in your tap water, you could try to fix it first (using only water from the tap) and if your test comes back negative after fixing it, then it means you do have copper in the tank and it’s coming from your tap water.

It could also be coming from your equipment so you need to inspect it for any part containing copper that might be leaching into the water. If that’s the case, remove it and it’s taken care of. Your WC will do the rest.

Have you tested again after your 80% WC ? What doest the test say ?

Inverts are very sensitive to copper so if you have some and they are doing fine, I wouldn’t worry about it. We need to be careful too with test results coming from strips.

If you can’t find any definite answer, I would just be mindful of it and observe, but I wouldn’t do anything to the tank for now.
Brill thanks

Yeah the last thing I want or need to do is mess things up again. I did a test after the change today and it did show up on the strip but I'm not too concerned as my zebra nerites are all fine and moving around the tank as they always have done

Scottish water isn't known to contain copper so it's a puzzle. The only piece of equipment apart from my filter and heater is a bubble bar so I might remove that for a while and see what the test says on the next water change

Don’t add anything if you’re not sure copper is present. You’re trying to bring stability to your tank. If you have reason to believe there is copper in your tap water, you could try to fix it first (using only water from the tap) and if your test comes back negative after fixing it, then it means you do have copper in the tank and it’s coming from your tap water.

It could also be coming from your equipment so you need to inspect it for any part containing copper that might be leaching into the water. If that’s the case, remove it and it’s taken care of. Your WC will do the rest.

Have you tested again after your 80% WC ? What doest the test say ?

Inverts are very sensitive to copper so if you have some and they are doing fine, I wouldn’t worry about it. We need to be careful too with test results coming from strips.

If you can’t find any definite answer, I would just be mindful of it and observe, but I wouldn’t do anything to the tank for now.
I'll also test my tap water on its own, could be my pipes but again they're all doing fine for now
 

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I'll also test my tap water on its own, could be my pipes but again they're all doing fine for now
If you want to do that, get a « 0 » sample (like source water or ro water) and see if the test still shows copper. And compare the two. If the « 0 » sample shows anything other than 0, then you know your test strip is garbage.
 
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  • #54
If you want to do that, get a « 0 » sample (like source water or ro water) and see if the test still shows copper. And compare the two. If the « 0 » sample shows anything other than 0, then you know your test strip is garbage.
Haha yeah it's starting to look that way

I may as well invest in the API master test kit, I can't see that it tests for copper but nerites are ok and I'll do the above. I can always pick up a separate test kit for heavy metals - so bloody many to choose from but one step at a time.. slow and steady eh lol
 
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  • #55
Y
If you want to do that, get a « 0 » sample (like source water or ro water) and see if the test still shows copper. And compare the two. If the « 0 » sample shows anything other than 0, then you know your test strip is garbage.
Yeah these strip tests are rubbish!

On the left is from tank water and the right is just tap water alone - absolutely zero difference! I've ordered the API one, should be here later today with Amazon
 

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Y

Yeah these strip tests are rubbish!

On the left is from tank water and the right is just tap water alone - absolutely zero difference! I've ordered the API one, should be here later today with Amazon
It’s possible both test the same but getting the API master test kit is the right decision. It will last you for years, as long as it’s not expired.

As for heavy metals, you really don’t need to buy any tests unless there is a specific issue with your tank. It’s not needed for routine testing.

How is the water clarity today ? Can you make a video of your tank with lights on ?
 

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It’s possible both test the same but getting the API master test kit is the right decision. It will last you for years, as long as it’s not expired.

As for heavy metals, you really don’t need to buy any tests unless there is a specific issue with your tank. It’s not needed for routine testing.

How is the water clarity today ? Can you make a video of your tank with lights on ?
It's looking amazing! I'll add some pics but I don't know if it will upload the video

Got the light on 100% I'm pretty chuffed with it so far

Yyeah not sure why but the video won't load you get a pretty decent view from these pics.. Have turned the light off again for today and will follow your advice to introduce slowly and have gone for pellets instead of messy flakes

Sapphire (my gorgeous mustard gas Betta!) Absolutely loves the flakes the Tetras eat but he'll get used to the change! Pellets as well for the Corys and the single little shrimp that remains from 5 I got way back at the start of setting up on the 30l is still going strong as are my zebra snails

I'm still wary something may go wrong but you guys are absolutely the best so I have no doubt you'll be able to help if it does - stars!!
 

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Too many videos but wasn't sure if any would upload
Best is to upload on YouTube and copy the link here.

What are those white rings ? Are you training your fish ?
 
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  • #60
Best is to upload on YouTube and copy the link here.

What are those white rings ? Are you training your fish ?
Haha, oh I wish! No Sapphire loves dashing through them when it's time for a feed! He comes to the glass, follows my finger then waits at the top corner under his feeding ring (a very new addition), smart little fish knew what this was for straight away! That and his mirror I drop in for about 5-10 minutes a day he flares like mad chasing the 'intruder'!

I'll try the YouTube thing, never done that before
 

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  • #62

Well, that’s training so well done !
Haha! I honestly had no idea I was kinda training him!
He loves brushing past the tip of my finger is in the water, usually when I'm dropping his mirror in, it's just his top fin, occasionally he'll drift up so his side also gets a slight tickle too - must be enjoy that cos he doesn't dart away either!


My wall behind the tank makes it look bland, I'll need to get the black background on soon to really make things pop
 
My wall behind the tank makes it look bland, I'll need to get the black background on soon to really make things pop
It’s going to look even nicer with a background. You’ve done a good job !
 
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  • #64
It’s going to look even nicer with a background. You’ve done a good job !
Thanks, I really couldn't have done it without all the help your suggestion to do the 80% change was what really helped move things along much faster, brilliant piece of advice and I think my little fish family are loving it as well!
 
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  • #65
Here we go! I'll be relying on this kitting future!
Also, Copper reading before WAS a piece of cack thank god!
The only one slightly off is high range ph but I am SO pleased with everything else, it's perfect!!
Oh, and we already knew the PH and Carbonate showed slight issues but it's not too far off. Got a crushed coral bag in there so it should start to sort itself out soon
 

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  • #67
Still going strong and ZERO clouding

Cannot that you all enough guys, you are absolute LEGENDS and I'm so sorry pleased I found this forum!

Ps im now considering getting the 30l from the attic and set-up another with something different, definitely keeping it simple if I do decide to do that! Haha

Love

Ang


 

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  • #68
Hi again guys
I'm hoping this is 'normal ' and it's just settling?

It stayed clear for just that week then this started again, I should just leave it for how long before doing anything?

Thanks

Angela
 

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Hi again Angela,
My first concern is that foam on the surface of the water, usually caused by an excessive amount of organic matter broken down in the water column. Overfeeding, dead fish, decaying plants etc.
Looks like another bacterial or algae bloom. If its white its bacterial if its green its algae, its hard for me to tell as my eyesight is not what it used to be and im also colour blind.
Algae bloom = decrease light intensity or length of time its on.
Bacterial bloom = not enough beneficial bacteria in the filter to handle the amount of waste in the tank.
Did you overclean the filter again? Other causes are putting your hands in that had antibacterial cream, bleach etc things that kill bacteria basically.
Are all your api tests sitting normal?
 
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  • #70
Hi again Angela,
My first concern is that foam on the surface of the water, usually caused by an excessive amount of organic matter broken down in the water column. Overfeeding, dead fish, decaying plants etc.
Looks like another bacterial or algae bloom. If its white its bacterial if its green its algae, its hard for me to tell as my eyesight is not what it used to be and im also colour blind.
Algae bloom = decrease light intensity or length of time its on.
Bacterial bloom = not enough beneficial bacteria in the filter to handle the amount of waste in the tank.
Did you overclean the filter again? Other causes are putting your hands in that had antibacterial cream, bleach etc things that kill bacteria basically.
Are all your api tests sitting normal?


Hi, I think it might be feeding, I have some for the betta, different one for the corys and another for the tetras - again shop advice!
If I try feeding Sapphire (Betta) husband pellets he refuses them and just wants the tetras food
As thr corys are bottom feeders are they also OK with the food the tetras get?

I also 'had' 8 nerites.. 4 zebra and 4 brown.. I say had as I can only find 4 so god knows where the rest are hiding?!

I've included a video, the foam isn't foam, it's breaking bubbles on the surface and I also have those fecking hitchhiker snails but I know they're harmless, just annoying but the more there are suggests too much food?

I don't want to touch the water, you guys said not to do too much, it's just ugly again

Hi again Angela,
My first concern is that foam on the surface of the water, usually caused by an excessive amount of organic matter broken down in the water column. Overfeeding, dead fish, decaying plants etc.
Looks like another bacterial or algae bloom. If its white its bacterial if its green its algae, its hard for me to tell as my eyesight is not what it used to be and im also colour blind.
Algae bloom = decrease light intensity or length of time its on.
Bacterial bloom = not enough beneficial bacteria in the filter to handle the amount of waste in the tank.
Did you overclean the filter again? Other causes are putting your hands in that had antibacterial cream, bleach etc things that kill bacteria basically.
Are all your api tests sitting normal?

Here's my API tests, 5 mins ago
Still working on increasing the PH and the ammonia appears to be a little higher at 0.25 so a water change needed?
Happy with the Nitrite and Nitrate both perfect

Oh, didn't overclean the filter it got a swoosh in tank water and straight back in

My hands are always clean of anything I don't do cleans or lotions and I don't touch the bleach-that's the husband's favourite stuff
 

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Sapphire will be fine on tetras food as will the Cory's.
Always feed less than you think they need, if someone goes without food they will be sure to be first in line for food at the next feeding time lol.
I wonder if your ph has dropped again and made some of the beneficial bacteria go dormant.
I myself have had an unexpected bacterial bloom and put it down to red root floating plants that I added and didnt do well and broke into a trillion bits but i tested my water and ph was low.
Being in Scotland myself (although up in Aberdeen) we have soft water.
Its usually fine for the aquarium but just lately seems to be softer than usual.
To save messing with baking soda etc which is just a faff in my opinion I put crushed coral in my filters to keep the hardness up, it stops ph dropping over time and adds hardness to the water.
The nerites need a constant supply of algae and biofilm as they are picky with other foods, so because there's not enough algae for all those 8 snails they may just sleeping somewhere. They might pass away due to starvation. I read somewhere 1 nerite per 10 gallon tank in order to ensure enough algae and biofilm.
I think crushed coral is the way to go to solve water hardness and ph.
If your beneficial bacteria has gone dormant it will show up as ammonia on your test kit as its not being processed by the bacteria.
 

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  • #72
Sapphire will be fine on tetras food as will the Cory's.
Always feed less than you think they need, if someone goes without food they will be sure to be first in line for food at the next feeding time lol.
I wonder if your ph has dropped again and made some of the beneficial bacteria go dormant.
I myself have had an unexpected bacterial bloom and put it down to red root floating plants that I added and didnt do well and broke into a trillion bits but i tested my water and ph was low.
Being in Scotland myself (although up in Aberdeen) we have soft water.
Its usually fine for the aquarium but just lately seems to be softer than usual.
To save messing with baking soda etc which is just a faff in my opinion I put crushed coral in my filters to keep the hardness up, it stops ph dropping over time and adds hardness to the water.
The nerites need a constant supply of algae and biofilm as they are picky with other foods, so because there's not enough algae for all those 8 snails they may just sleeping somewhere. They might pass away due to starvation. I read somewhere 1 nerite per 10 gallon tank in order to ensure enough algae and biofilm.
I think crushed coral is the way to go to solve water hardness and ph.
If your beneficial bacteria has gone dormant it will show up as ammonia on your test kit as its not being processed by the bacteria.
Hi

I have a bag of crushed coral sitting right underneath the filter but didn't put any into the filter sponge with the media but considering this.. I really hope the snails haven't died off although the ones on top of the At-At I placed there as a test as I'd found them on their backs on the sand not searching for food as thry normally would
What do I do to get the beneficial bacteria working for me again?
 
What I see appears to be a free floating algae bloom. What is your light intensity and duration? What does your tap water test out at for Phosphates?

My suggestion earlier was the AA Green Killing Machine (9w). Please consider it.


 
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  • #74
What I see appears to be a free floating algae bloom. What is your light intensity and duration? What does your tap water test out at for Phosphates?

My suggestion earlier was the AA Green Killing Machine (9w). Please consider it.


Yeah I think one of those would be ideal.. I've used the lights on the setting to mimic a normal environment so starts off kind of orange goes up to full daylight before going to blue and switches off at 11pm - that might need to stay off for a while if this is feeding the free floating algae - after everything and after looking at that video of the machine, that's the colour my water has, have added a pic with the light off
Will need to wait till end of the month for payday though
 

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You have under 6 ph by the looks of it. Its that low it isn't even showing up on the ph scale.
A much much quicker result will be to put the coral in the filter as you can imagine the flow wearing away at the coral as it rushes by it.
 
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  • #76
You have under 6 ph by the looks of it. Its that low it isn't even showing up on the ph scale.
A much much quicker result will be to put the coral in the filter as you can imagine the flow wearing away at the coral as it rushes by it.
Thanks, I'll do that

I'll take the filter out today, give it a swish and add some of the coral to it without doing anything else hopefully the ph will lift - it's been in a couple of weeks and it did lift a bit but it's dropped off again
 
It does look green (even to me) in that latest picture right enough.
The algae will feed the snails eventually when it lands on stuff but not while its floating free in the water.
A big sudden algae bloom would suggest too bright light or on too long.
I sorted algae with only having light on 6 hrs. I still have algae up close to the light on plants.

Don't swish it plz lol
 
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  • #78
It does look green (even to me) in that latest picture right enough.
The algae will feed the snails eventually when it lands on stuff but not while its floating free in the water.
A big sudden algae bloom would suggest too bright light or on too long.
I sorted algae with only having light on 6 hrs. I still have algae up close to the light on plants.

Don't swish it plz lol
Haha ok I won't swish anything that doesn't need it, coral into the filter and back in
 
I've used the lights on the setting to mimic a normal environment so starts off kind of orange goes up to full daylight before going to blue and switches off at 11pm
No this is not normal. How long are your lights on ? They should be on about 6 hours per day, with low intensity ramp up and ramp down included in this 6 hours. This is a new aquarium. You can increase slowly later on, like 10% per week.

Also, you seem to be feeding way too much. Bettas need 2-3 pellets per day, cories and snails don’t need to be fed because they will get what’s on the bottom. A few tetras need very little food and try to avoid flakes because it soils the water a lot. At least until your water has been stable for a few months.

So turn the lights down in intensity and duration and feed a lot less. Do a daily WC if you can while you’re sorting this out. A UV light will work but it’s not going to teach you how to run your tank.
 
From what i understand the coral will raise hardness to a certain level and it'll stay there it won't keep raising it too high so no need to worry about it, just leave it in there.

As for the algae its a too much nutrients in the water along with too much light.
 
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  • #81
No this is not normal. How long are your lights on ? They should be on about 6 hours per day, with low intensity ramp up and ramp down included in this 6 hours. This is a new aquarium. You can increase slowly later on, like 10% per week.

Also, you seem to be feeding way too much. Bettas need 2-3 pellets per day, cories and snails don’t need to be fed because they will get what’s on the bottom. A few tetras need very little food and try to avoid flakes because it soils the water a lot. At least until your water has been stable for a few months.

So turn the lights down in intensity and duration and feed a lot less. Do a daily WC if you can while you’re sorting this out. A UV light will work but it’s not going to teach you how to run your tank.
The lights a 12hr setting mimicking natural environment but I can move away from that setting and control the intensity and time myself so I'll do that
Yes, I definitely need to feed less, I always feel sorry for them somehow thinking they'll starve but as we're off on holiday next month they'll need to get used to someone coming in every 2-3 days so may as well start now
One feed in the morning and very minimal
Thanks again

I'm currently searching Ebay or Vinted to see if I can get a green killing machine cheaper in the meantime

No this is not normal. How long are your lights on ? They should be on about 6 hours per day, with low intensity ramp up and ramp down included in this 6 hours. This is a new aquarium. You can increase slowly later on, like 10% per week.

Also, you seem to be feeding way too much. Bettas need 2-3 pellets per day, cories and snails don’t need to be fed because they will get what’s on the bottom. A few tetras need very little food and try to avoid flakes because it soils the water a lot. At least until your water has been stable for a few months.

So turn the lights down in intensity and duration and feed a lot less. Do a daily WC if you can while you’re sorting this out. A UV light will work but it’s not going to teach you how to run your tank.
 

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Worst thing you can do is let someone else feed your fish lol.
Make sure you show them exactly how much to give and show them less than that.
You have ammonia so as dechi says water changes daily till filter bacteria gets back up to par.
 
I agree regarding others feeding fish. You might best pre measure your food feeding and place into little plastic containers clearly marked.
Cutting back some on light duration and or intensity would be helpful as well.

And while you’re getting your parameters all set, do test for phosphates and nitrates in your tap water.

Crushed coral with a killing machine should do the trick. Be sure to continue monitoring though.
 
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  • #84
I agree regarding others feeding fish. You might best pre measure your food feeding and place into little plastic containers clearly marked.
Cutting back some on light duration and or intensity would be helpful as well.

And while you’re getting your parameters all set, do test for phosphates and nitrates in your tap water.

Crushed coral with a killing machine should do the trick. Be sure to continue monitoring though.
It's a tricky one I agree, was going to pick up an auto feeder but there's nowhere I could place it as it's a glass lid so I'll need to measure out the pellets and I can use my spare daily medication dose so there's no mistakes

Picked up a mini green killing machine on Ebay, I have 70l tank so it should work perfectly-I hope!!!
 
When I go out of town I leave a 1/4 tsp measuring spoon by the fish food with instructions to feed either a heaping 1/4 tsp for my 75 gallon community tank and a scant 1/4 tsp for my 38 gallon. I remind the neighbor who comes in to feed that the fish have very tiny mouths and stomachs so they don't need much food and won't starve.
 
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  • #86
When I go out of town I leave a 1/4 tsp measuring spoon by the fish food with instructions to feed either a heaping 1/4 tsp for my 75 gallon community tank and a scant 1/4 tsp for my 38 gallon. I remind the neighbor who comes in to feed that the fish have very tiny mouths and stomachs so they don't need much food and won't starve.
That's a great measuring tip, thanks!
I'm looking forward to the green killing machine coming in the next few days, my snails are definitely feeling the pinch as the algae isn't what it was
 
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  • #87
Hi folks
Little update and the advice about the Green Killing Machine was spot on

Can't wait to see the total progress if this is just a few days!


Angela

And at least when I do my water changes I can make sure those hitchhikers are more controlled as I can see them on my hardscape and on the sand to get them more under control
As well as feeding less, that's been changed to once a day which will help - no more decaying stuff to feed them and I really hope my nerites start to improve too!

Getting there compared to how it was on Monday!
 

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Glad it’s working for you ! Your water is very still at the surface. Increasing water agitation would be good for your fish and in general. Just aim a small powerhead at the surface.
 
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  • #89
Glad it’s working for you ! Your water is very still at the surface. Increasing water agitation would be good for your fish and in general. Just aim a small powerhead at the surface.
Thanks I'll turn the bar at the top towards the surface more. Must have been when I last cleaned the filtered realigned it too horizontal

Those Corydoras are nuts, females dropping tons of eggs as the males are encouraging them but been told they'll eat them if only fed very sparingly and just once a day. Is that true as I do not need the stress of a nursery tank! Hahaha
 
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  • #90
Hope this is towards the end of all my troubles!

Water change during the green machine doing its work and as far as I can see and even if it does appear the machine will do it's job!

Added a few more plants, fake this time but purely for a bit of colour and the small coral like ornaments

The fish seem happy so I am too ☺️
 

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  • #91
So here it is, the end result and exactly what I was looking for, thanks everyone for all the advice!

Added a video and a few pics as well

 

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