Fx4 Upgrade And Question
Advertisement
If you used good quality foam it should last for years. It's just a matter of when it starts to fall apart. Biohome should last virtually forever if the foam does its job.
You can extend the cleaning cycle significantly by using a foam pre-filter on the intake. This blocks much of the heaviest muck right at the start and in a place that's easy to clean.
The time between filter cleanings is going to depend a lot on whether you use a pre-filter, the stocking level of your tank, how much algae and such is in the water, etc. I would start checking monthly after maybe two months. Don't clean it until you're sure it needs it. That way you have a baseline for starting to check next time after you do clean it. So, check it monthly but don't clean it until you decide you need to.
You can extend the cleaning cycle significantly by using a foam pre-filter on the intake. This blocks much of the heaviest muck right at the start and in a place that's easy to clean.
The time between filter cleanings is going to depend a lot on whether you use a pre-filter, the stocking level of your tank, how much algae and such is in the water, etc. I would start checking monthly after maybe two months. Don't clean it until you're sure it needs it. That way you have a baseline for starting to check next time after you do clean it. So, check it monthly but don't clean it until you decide you need to.
Advertisement
- Messages
- 11,424
My setup is exactly the same as in the video and I check mine every 3 months and looking at it it could go longer all my sponges get rinsed in Aquarium water and only change the white wool each time the course and medium sponges will last a few years, looking at mine I'd probably start changing after 18 months and go through them all quietly on each clean, so in effect I'm changing one tray each time I open then the ones in the red long holder will.be the ones I'll start with
- Messages
- 11,424
- Messages
- 11,424
Advertisement
- Messages
- 12,262
I use coarse. The med just clogged up to quickly. I also clean it at every water change. Amazing how quick it clogs up.
- Messages
- 5,165
Jack199 , let us know how it looks the first time you open it up.
I installed a sponge pre-filter on the intake of my FX4 I bought 2 months ago.
I didnt use the intake strainer and installed one of these instead (LINK), an ATI Hydro Max III.
It uses a coarse foam sponge. I have removed it twice and shook/swished off all the collected muck and debris from it. It appears not to hamper the flow at all through the filter.
ATI's are modular, so if you want to slip on one of their larger diameter sponges, you can.
They make good sponge filters driven by air stones also.
I installed a sponge pre-filter on the intake of my FX4 I bought 2 months ago.
I didnt use the intake strainer and installed one of these instead (LINK), an ATI Hydro Max III.
It uses a coarse foam sponge. I have removed it twice and shook/swished off all the collected muck and debris from it. It appears not to hamper the flow at all through the filter.
ATI's are modular, so if you want to slip on one of their larger diameter sponges, you can.
They make good sponge filters driven by air stones also.
- Messages
- 11,424
Advertisement
- Messages
- 5,165
richie.p , I will post a pic later today of how it attaches to the FX4's intake pipe. If I recall correctly, the adapter fitting included was a hair to large, so I wrapped a few layers of plumber's teflon tape around it the pipe, so the fit was snug.
Here is a pic I already had, of the pre-filter assembly with included adapter pieces.....
I will post pic of it attached to intake tube later today.
Here is a pic I already had, of the pre-filter assembly with included adapter pieces.....
I will post pic of it attached to intake tube later today.
- Messages
- 5,165
here are some pics of the pre-filter on the FX4.
It has been on there for about 2 months now. I need to give it a quick clean though. Easiest way I found, was to turn off the filter and slip a gallon sized Zip-Loc bag around it, then remove from the intake tube. The bag catches all the muck so it doesn't disperse back into the tank.
Also, here is a pic of how I utilized the void spaces at the bottom of the canister body....
It has been on there for about 2 months now. I need to give it a quick clean though. Easiest way I found, was to turn off the filter and slip a gallon sized Zip-Loc bag around it, then remove from the intake tube. The bag catches all the muck so it doesn't disperse back into the tank.
Also, here is a pic of how I utilized the void spaces at the bottom of the canister body....
- Messages
- 11,424
- Messages
- 12,262
Thanks guys for this info. I’ve ordered the sponge recommended. Now I have installed some course sponge inside the intake housing. What I’ve noticed is if I remove this sponge while the filter is running the filter pulls much more water after its removed. So the sponge does reduce the intake of the filter.
As to putting media on the bottom of the filter I’m against that. If you look at the bottom you’ll notice that space is angled up so the water is being directed upward. That angling is there on purpose for a reason. Putting stuff in there is going to also reduce performance. Remember the pond guru is allways looking to reduce nitrates (he must have some really bad nitrates in his stuff) and looking to sell his product.
As to putting media on the bottom of the filter I’m against that. If you look at the bottom you’ll notice that space is angled up so the water is being directed upward. That angling is there on purpose for a reason. Putting stuff in there is going to also reduce performance. Remember the pond guru is allways looking to reduce nitrates (he must have some really bad nitrates in his stuff) and looking to sell his product.
- Messages
- 11,424
I disagree with your last comments like anyone in business they advertise but pondguru takes it one step further and tells you exactly how much Biohome you need for a full cycle and by that taking out Ammonia, Nitrites&Nitraits any filter not doing a full cycle which we see here often when people say their Nitraits are sky high is not doing its job and putting Nitraits back in the tank, its not the case as you say we have high Nitraits in our stuff, Nitraits are always talked about in his videos as it's the last stage, so I've just done a test for you, two tanks exactly the same RO water temp 23c tds 135 and 137 so nothing. One filter as recommended Biohome ultimate for the volume of water to give me a full cycle the other as sponge and fluval standard media this tank is the last I'll be changing over as all will have Biohome in them, both filters have been running for 7months, the first bottle showing zero when lifted to the chart, its ok for some fish to have high Nitraits but its deadly to my shrimp
Results just done and they speak for themselves, this is not a gimmick for someone to make money which as been suggested in other posts, its fact, I've got nothing to gain what so ever posting this just the fact I'm getting a full cycle which is most important
Attachments
- Messages
- 5,165
86 ssinit , interesting observation. I will have to take another look at it the next time it gets cleaned.
From what I had recalled, the space in the outer ring area had a flat bottom and looped around to the bottom of the pic where the left side has the area that exits to the external side drain.
The right side just stopped at the wall for the pump assembly, though I could be remembering wrong.
If your were advising about the center area, the floor there forms a depression that leads into the impeller assembly housing for the pump.
I put the media down there just to try it out. I can never leave well enough alone, as the saying goes.....
When you tested the sponge on the intake, are you putting inside of the slotted intake guard? Yes I would think that would lead to a decrease in flow.
Next time I clean just the pre-filter I had installed, I will take a look at thw discharge flow both with and with out it. It is due for a quick swish and rinse anyways.
From what I had recalled, the space in the outer ring area had a flat bottom and looped around to the bottom of the pic where the left side has the area that exits to the external side drain.
The right side just stopped at the wall for the pump assembly, though I could be remembering wrong.
If your were advising about the center area, the floor there forms a depression that leads into the impeller assembly housing for the pump.
I put the media down there just to try it out. I can never leave well enough alone, as the saying goes.....
When you tested the sponge on the intake, are you putting inside of the slotted intake guard? Yes I would think that would lead to a decrease in flow.
Next time I clean just the pre-filter I had installed, I will take a look at thw discharge flow both with and with out it. It is due for a quick swish and rinse anyways.
- Messages
- 12,262
Sorry Richie wasn’t trying to upset you I’m not saying bio-home doesn’t work. I’m saying that area in the fx4 doesn’t need anything put in it. It was manufactured to push the water upward. By putting stuff in there (not saying bio-home) you are slowing the flow. And come on the pond guru is selling his product. I have bio-home in both of my large tanks. 4lbs in my fx6 I think he says I should have 6lbs. I also use matrix. I use both of these products because they have lots of surface area to grow beneficial bacteria. Denitrifying bacteria is just a bonus. I change my water weekly so I really don’t check nitrates.
I’m guessing your not doing water changes. 7 months is a long time not to clean a filter. Is the 10 ppm of nitrate causing noticeable differences between tanks? I’m guessing you don’t have many shrimp in either of those tanks. My tank has over a hundred shrimp in it. They are messy so I change the water weekly. I don’t feed them much they eat whatever is growing on the plants. Just checked my nitrates and I’m at 5ppm.
Islandvic no not the center area I don’t think that matters. Mine is the fx6 and those outside areas are ramped. Yes I am putting it inside the cage. Why does it make a difference? Still pulling water through it. It’s lot of water being pulled through there. I could easily see fish getting stuck to that cage. I ordered your sponge but am interested in what happens when you remove yours. I predict I big increase in flow.
I’m guessing your not doing water changes. 7 months is a long time not to clean a filter. Is the 10 ppm of nitrate causing noticeable differences between tanks? I’m guessing you don’t have many shrimp in either of those tanks. My tank has over a hundred shrimp in it. They are messy so I change the water weekly. I don’t feed them much they eat whatever is growing on the plants. Just checked my nitrates and I’m at 5ppm.
Islandvic no not the center area I don’t think that matters. Mine is the fx6 and those outside areas are ramped. Yes I am putting it inside the cage. Why does it make a difference? Still pulling water through it. It’s lot of water being pulled through there. I could easily see fish getting stuck to that cage. I ordered your sponge but am interested in what happens when you remove yours. I predict I big increase in flow.
I’m only a beginner here so sorry if I’m trying to keep it basic, are you saying filling the base of the fx4 with ceramic rings is a bad idea ? I’m cycling my tank and initially it was very clear now it’s going a misty white, it did seem to be after I added live plants but could this be the cause ?
TIA
Attachments
You do realize the plants are most likely eating that nitrate right?
I don’t believe the hype that matrix or Biohome media will decrease nitrates, I’ve always been told water changes and or plants are the only way to decrease nitrates, in high tech tanks we actually dose nitrates. Is there any actual scientific study that says these media’s actually reduce nitrates?and how much exactly?
Advertisement
- Messages
- 12,262
No the misty white is normal when starting a new tank. It will go away in a few days. No I’m not saying it’s a bad idea I’m just saying it’s not needed. These filters have huge areas for media and I don’t think you need to add more.
Yes plants do eat nitrates but not as much as you think. Yes there are studies and it does work. Richies study is proof that it does work. Denitrifying bacteria live in the dark oxygen free areas of the filter. Bio-home and matrix add more of this type of areas. The center of sponges inside a canister will also hold this bacteria.
Yes plants do eat nitrates but not as much as you think. Yes there are studies and it does work. Richies study is proof that it does work. Denitrifying bacteria live in the dark oxygen free areas of the filter. Bio-home and matrix add more of this type of areas. The center of sponges inside a canister will also hold this bacteria.
- Messages
- 11,424
My water is changed weekly on every tank my filters are striped every 3 months not 7 I use booster filters on all my fluval except fx4 & 6, the space in the bottom of the 4&6 is designed to hold any small particles like sand, I always find sand in that part and dosnt get sucked through the outer sponges leaving the impeller at the final stage with clean water, I agree putting media in the bottom ma restrict some flow but it will also help hold bigger particles, it's the same as putting a sponge at the start of the intake, also if you think about it we can reduce the flow with the valves on top of the canister, so when you break it all down it dosnt make much difference which way you set it up glow wise,
I sit speak to Richard and asked him about the media in the bottom and his words were he didn't think it made and difference to a point where it's not worth bothering with, the two tank in the pic both have 30 shrimp in they have bee running 7 months but I do check more frequently as it's a pull out basket, I realise now that's where you thought I only checked every 7 months, the fx are 3 months or if there's a reduction in flow check earlier, when I do a water change I leave the filters running until it goes below outlet to see the flow, please you don't have to apologise to me we are all here to give advise and opinions I value everyone's friendship here even if we disagree
- Messages
- 11,424
HI john youd think after all these years I'd know most of them but I don't that's my downfall. The only one I can say in the right hand tank mid water left hand side is subwassertang shrimp love it. Its a single cell so don't have roots, the carpet moss I don't know. I'm not the best when it comes to plant names sorry
- Messages
- 11,424
What exactly is your point? Are you suggesting we should ignore everything the Pond Guru says because he has a financial interest in the product he sells? Should we also ignore the advice he gives that Matrix and Subtrat Pro and the Fluval media are good media that can support denitrifying bacteria? Should we also ignore the advice of almost every other person who posts informative fish keeping videos on YouTube because they have sponsors or a financial interest in us buying the products they talk about?
Yes, Richard has a financial interest in Biohome. He prominently mentions that in almost every video. He says competing products are also good. He gives solid, well-explained, evidence-backed advice about filtration. I'm not sure what more could be expected.
- Messages
- 1,545
Hi,
Welcome to the hobby.
The amount you need to clean the filter depends completely on the stocking and how heavily planted the tank is. I personally clean the canister filter on my 75G every 4 to 8 weeks. The more fish and more plants you have, the dirtier the filter will get. My advice would be to start by cleaning them every month. If the filter media isn't that dirty, you can go longer. If it's nasty, do it more frequently.
Cleaning them is relatively easy. Just siphon tank water into a couple buckets and squeeze the media out in the buckets until there's no more clumps or easily visible gunk. One thing that is important when you clean canister filters is to turn the filter on with the outtake pump launching water into a bucket and not your tank. A bunch of gunk and particles gets into the outtake hose and will launch into your tank, so you should let the water run for 15 seconds before running the filter again. You could disconnect the hoses and clean them, but I've never done that and its been over a year.
Lastly, never replace the filter media. I'm running the same filter media on HOB filters I've had to replace multiple times because they wore out. Throwing away your filter media means throwing away your cycle.
Welcome to the hobby.
The amount you need to clean the filter depends completely on the stocking and how heavily planted the tank is. I personally clean the canister filter on my 75G every 4 to 8 weeks. The more fish and more plants you have, the dirtier the filter will get. My advice would be to start by cleaning them every month. If the filter media isn't that dirty, you can go longer. If it's nasty, do it more frequently.
Cleaning them is relatively easy. Just siphon tank water into a couple buckets and squeeze the media out in the buckets until there's no more clumps or easily visible gunk. One thing that is important when you clean canister filters is to turn the filter on with the outtake pump launching water into a bucket and not your tank. A bunch of gunk and particles gets into the outtake hose and will launch into your tank, so you should let the water run for 15 seconds before running the filter again. You could disconnect the hoses and clean them, but I've never done that and its been over a year.
Lastly, never replace the filter media. I'm running the same filter media on HOB filters I've had to replace multiple times because they wore out. Throwing away your filter media means throwing away your cycle.
- Messages
- 1,545
- Messages
- 12,262
I know you never outright called him a fraud. "Fraud" would be further than even I'd be willing to go as far as my interpretation of your implication. More like his information regarding Biohome should be discounted if not outright ignored because he sells the stuff.
Given the way in which you introduced this fact to the conversation, it's obvious the intention was more than just reminding everyone of his connection to the product, as if adding, "He was a baseball player," to a mention of Babe Ruth.
My point here is that if you think he's giving biased information, then the information he gives about competing products would necessarily also be biased, most likely in the opposite direction. But this latter makes no sense since he clearly says that certain competing products are quite good. He's been very complimentary of Substrat Pro and Fluval Biomax. If he was being misleading about his product for the purpose of increasing sales, why would he also talk up some of the competition? The logical course would be to talk the others down. To me this sounds like an honest person who's being forthright about all the products.
- Messages
- 12,262
- Messages
- 12,262
Random Great Topic!
Today's Deals
Advertisement
Advertisement