Fish-in Cycle - Update / Please advise!

[matthewjensen3033]

Hello everyone,

I have a 10 gallon tank with a heater, filter, and various decor/silk plants (not real). I have had my betta in the tank for ~2 weeks (yes, I made the mistake of doing a fish-in cycle before doing my research!).

Since I introduced the fish ~2 weeks ago, my readings haven't changed much. They are as follows:

Ammonia: 0.25
Nitrite: 0
Nitrate: 0

I conditioned my tank with Prime when I set it up to ensure the safety of my betta and then have monitored the parameters twice/day (before and after work) to make sure my baby is safe. I have never seen anything more than the 0.25 ammonia mentioned above.

I made the mistake of adding the TSS+ in full after setting up the tank and using the Prime (from what I've read, you should wait 24 hours before adding the TSS if you used Prime). So, to be safe, I waited 48 hours and then added a full bottle of the TSS+ again. Nothing has really changed, and my numbers remain the same.

My betta seems very happy and active, and I've had no concerns. I feed him daily using pellets (and I feed him one by one to ensure he's eating them all). I haven't done a water change since I put in the TSS+ because that was the recommendation.

Any suggestions? Could my bioload be 'too low?' I would think at .25 ammonia, the bacteria wouldn't take long to convert that. I also realized my filter (Aqueon Quietflow 10) had an 'ammonia reducing pad' as the last stage of filtration before the water re-entered the tank. I removed that pad and rigged the filter a bit to add a piece of foam at the beginning (for mechanical) and ceramic bio rings following that (for biological) and then my carbon filter it came with last. I realize now that carbon filters aren't the best as they need to be replaced every 4 weeks (and I've read mixed reviews about keeping it in the tank for too long after expiring), but I also don't want to ruin my cycle by removing it now...so I'm planning to 'cut out' the activated carbon once it expires but keeping the pouch/filter floss there to prevent the loss of all of my BB.

Sorry for the long-winded post but I'm at a loss. Again, my betta seems very happy, but I am constantly worried about her!

 

[Fishfur]

Hello everyone,

I have a 10 gallon tank with a heater, filter, and various decor/silk plants (not real). I have had my betta in the tank for ~2 weeks (yes, I made the mistake of doing a fish-in cycle before doing my research!).

Since I introduced the fish ~2 weeks ago, my readings haven't changed much. They are as follows:

Ammonia: 0.25
Nitrite: 0
Nitrate: 0

I conditioned my tank with Prime when I set it up to ensure the safety of my betta and then have monitored the parameters twice/day (before and after work) to make sure my baby is safe. I have never seen anything more than the 0.25 ammonia mentioned above.

I made the mistake of adding the TSS+ in full after setting up the tank and using the Prime (from what I've read, you should wait 24 hours before adding the TSS if you used Prime). So, to be safe, I waited 48 hours and then added a full bottle of the TSS+ again. Nothing has really changed, and my numbers remain the same.

My betta seems very happy and active, and I've had no concerns. I feed him daily using pellets (and I feed him one by one to ensure he's eating them all). I haven't done a water change since I put in the TSS+ because that was the recommendation.

Any suggestions? Could my bioload be 'too low?' I would think at .25 ammonia, the bacteria wouldn't take long to convert that. I also realized my filter (Aqueon Quietflow 10) had an 'ammonia reducing pad' as the last stage of filtration before the water re-entered the tank. I removed that pad and rigged the filter a bit to add a piece of foam at the beginning (for mechanical) and ceramic bio rings following that (for biological) and then my carbon filter it came with last. I realize now that carbon filters aren't the best as they need to be replaced every 4 weeks (and I've read mixed reviews about keeping it in the tank for too long after expiring), but I also don't want to ruin my cycle by removing it now...so I'm planning to 'cut out' the activated carbon once it expires but keeping the pouch/filter floss there to prevent the loss of all of my BB.

Sorry for the long-winded post but I'm at a loss. Again, my betta seems very happy, but I am constantly worried about her!

The Prime really doesn’t detox ammonia but even if it did, there’s no reason I know of that it should have any effect on a cycle.

That it’s just one small fish won’t make it ‘too low a bioload’ either.

Have you done any water changes since you started?

Could you please post water temperature, pH, and KH & GH?

pH & KH can have quite an effect on cycling and it’s always good to know GH as well.

 

[matthewjensen3033]

The Prime really doesn’t detox ammonia but even if it did, there’s no reason I know of that it should have any effect on a cycle.

That it’s just one small fish won’t make it ‘too low a bioload’ either.

Have you done any water changes since you started?

Could you please post water temperature, pH, and KH & GH?

pH & KH can have quite an effect on cycling and it’s always good to know GH as well.

I have not done any water changes since I added the Tetra Safe Start+.

Water Temperature: ~78
PH: ~7.4

KH and GH: Not sure, the API test kit doesn't cover that. I could get some strips tomorrow that look at that, but I know strips aren't super accurate!

 

[Fishfur]

I have not done any water changes since I added the Tetra Safe Start+.

Water Temperature: ~78
PH: ~7.4

KH and GH: Not sure, the API test kit doesn't cover that. I could get some strips tomorrow that look at that, but I know strips aren't super accurate!

Strips get a bad rap but they’re not useless. For GH & KH they’d be good enough. I used Tetra 6 in 1 strips for ages and they gave results comparable to APIs liquid tests, only much faster. For regular testing they were more expensive to use but if properly handled, stored & correctly read, they were quite good. Can’t vouch for other strips, but the Tetra brand was quite decent ‘til the price just got too high.

 

[matthewjensen3033]

Strips get a bad rap but they’re not useless. For GH & KH they’d be good enough. I used Tetra 6 in 1 strips for ages and they gave results comparable to APIs liquid tests, only much faster. For regular testing they were more expensive to use but if properly handled, stored & correctly read, they were quite good. Can’t vouch for other strips, but the Tetra brand was quite decent ‘til the price just got too high.

Okay, I'll test the KH and GH tomorrow and post it here. Any other suggestions in the meantime?

 

[Azedenkae]

I would think at .25 ammonia, the bacteria wouldn't take long to convert that.

You are absolutely correct on this.

Turns out, it is very common for there to be a false positive 0.25ppm ammonia reading despite it effectively be zero. Multiple hypotheses have been proposed, regardless does not matter. If you are persistently reading 0.25ppm, then it is evidence that it is a false positive reading as there's no reason why it'd be stuck at that level.

If there was not enough nitrifiers to handle all the ammonia produced, then you'd expect ammonia to increase. If there was enough nitrifiers to handle the ammonia produced daily, but yet to finish off the remaining 0.25ppm, then you'd expect over the course of a few days for there to be enough.

For a fish-in cycle, all that matters is that ammonia and nitrite remains at <=0.25ppm (yes sometimes there is a false positive nitrite reading too) for a period of time. Then it can be considered cycled for the current bioload.

 

[Fishfur]

It’s common for a total ammonia test to show a persistent low reading but I disagree that these are false readings There are a few reasons a false ammonia reading might happen. I don’t think that you’re likely to get false nitrite readings unless the test is defective.

I think it’s more important to understand that ammonia in water exists always in a very well understood ratio of two forms, NH3 and NH4.

NH3 is toxic, free, un-ionized whereas NH4 is nontoxic, ionized ammonium.

NH3 won’t harm fish until its level reaches .6ppm and NH4 is harmless.

So at .25ppm there’s no problem for fish, even if it was all NH3, which it cannot be.

The lower pH is, the less NH3 and the lower temperature is, the less NH3.

There is a nifty calculator, sadly not here on FL, but on a marine site that will tell you precisely how much NH3 vs NH4 there is if you enter the pH & temp of the water plus the result of any total ammonia test. Just enter zero where it asks for salinity.

Free Ammonia Calculator

 

[RayClem]

Since your fish is already in the tank, you are committed to a fish-in cycle. Although it is not ideal to start that way, thousands of fishkeepers have done it that way in the past. Fishless cycles are a relatively new invention.

Do not add any ammonia or ammonium chloride to the tank as that could be detrimental to the betta.

Make sure you do not overfeed your betta. You want to provide no more than what he can eat in 5-10 minutes and no more than twice a day. Underfeeding is preferable to overfeeding.

Continue to monitor ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate reading for several weeks until the ammonia and nitrite levels remain at zero and the nitrate levels start to climb. If you see the ammonia levels exceed 0.5 ppm, do a partial water change. If they stay below 0.5 ppm as they are currently, hold off on the water change as the beneficial bacteria will need the ammonia to grow. Then once you see nitrate levels exceed 20 ppm, establish a water change routine, perhaps 50% per week.

Remember that bettas spend the first few months of their existence in small glass jars, so your 10 gallon tank is a big improvement.

 

[matthewjensen3033]

It’s common for a total ammonia test to show a persistent low reading but I disagree that these are false readings There are a few reasons a false ammonia reading might happen. I don’t think that you’re likely to get false nitrite readings unless the test is defective.

I think it’s more important to understand that ammonia in water exists always in a very well understood ratio of two forms, NH3 and NH4.

NH3 is toxic, free, un-ionized whereas NH4 is nontoxic, ionized ammonium.

NH3 won’t harm fish until its level reaches .6ppm and NH4 is harmless.

So at .25ppm there’s no problem for fish, even if it was all NH3, which it cannot be.

The lower pH is, the less NH3 and the lower temperature is, the less NH3.

There is a nifty calculator, sadly not here on FL, but on a marine site that will tell you precisely how much NH3 vs NH4 there is if you enter the pH & temp of the water plus the result of any total ammonia test. Just enter zero where it asks for salinity.

Free Ammonia Calculator

Thank you!

In this situation, based on the calculator I am in the safe range.

I forgot to mention...my local aquarium store provided me some seeded sand from an established tank (this local store is very reputable), so I added that to my tank just this morning (just a handful). Maybe this will help?

So, given this information, I'll keep doing what I'm doing. However, what if my Nitrates continue to remain at 0? Eventually I have to see nitrates, yeah? That's what's confusing me. Ammonia is staying low, nitrites are always at 0, but my nitrates remain at 0. I know it's only 1 betta, and I am careful to only feed him 1 at a time so pellets don't sit at the bottom...but I imagine he's pooping LOL.

Since your fish is already in the tank, you are committed to a fish-in cycle. Although it is not ideal to start that way, thousands of fishkeepers have done it that way in the past. Fishless cycles are a relatively new invention.

Do not add any ammonia or ammonium chloride to the tank as that could be detrimental to the betta.

Make sure you do not overfeed your betta. You want to provide no more than what he can eat in 5-10 minutes and no more than twice a day. Underfeeding is preferable to overfeeding.

Continue to monitor ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate reading for several weeks until the ammonia and nitrite levels remain at zero and the nitrate levels start to climb. If you see the ammonia levels exceed 0.5 ppm, do a partial water change. If they stay below 0.5 ppm as they are currently, hold off on the water change as the beneficial bacteria will need the ammonia to grow. Then once you see nitrate levels exceed 20 ppm, establish a water change routine, perhaps 50% per week.

Remember that bettas spend the first few months of their existence in small glass jars, so your 10 gallon tank is a big improvement.

Thank you! My reply below applies here as well:

So, given this information, I'll keep doing what I'm doing. However, what if my Nitrates continue to remain at 0? Eventually I have to see nitrates, yeah? That's what's confusing me. Ammonia is staying low, nitrites are always at 0, but my nitrates remain at 0. I know it's only 1 betta, and I am careful to only feed him 1 at a time so pellets don't sit at the bottom...but I imagine he's pooping LOL.
OKAY brief update:

I tested my waters again today and the readings are...

~.25-.5 ammonia, 0 nitrite, 0 nitrate

HOWEVER, I decided to test filtered water (from my brita filter) and tap water from my sink...both looked almost identical to the fish water!

Please take a look at the photos. First is the ammonia for my filtered water (left tube) and tap water (2nd tube). The second photo has the parameters of my fish water for ammonia/nitrite/nitrate.

What does this mean then? I'm still concerned that there are literally 0 nitrates though...just confused!

You are absolutely correct on this.

Turns out, it is very common for there to be a false positive 0.25ppm ammonia reading despite it effectively be zero. Multiple hypotheses have been proposed, regardless does not matter. If you are persistently reading 0.25ppm, then it is evidence that it is a false positive reading as there's no reason why it'd be stuck at that level.

If there was not enough nitrifiers to handle all the ammonia produced, then you'd expect ammonia to increase. If there was enough nitrifiers to handle the ammonia produced daily, but yet to finish off the remaining 0.25ppm, then you'd expect over the course of a few days for there to be enough.

For a fish-in cycle, all that matters is that ammonia and nitrite remains at <=0.25ppm (yes sometimes there is a false positive nitrite reading too) for a period of time. Then it can be considered cycled for the current bioload.

Thank you! I responded below. Any suggestions moving forward?

 

[Fishfur]

Thank you!

In this situation, based on the calculator I am in the safe range.

I forgot to mention...my local aquarium store provided me some seeded sand from an established tank (this local store is very reputable), so I added that to my tank just this morning (just a handful). Maybe this will help?

So, given this information, I'll keep doing what I'm doing. However, what if my Nitrates continue to remain at 0? Eventually I have to see nitrates, yeah? That's what's confusing me. Ammonia is staying low, nitrites are always at 0, but my nitrates remain at 0. I know it's only 1 betta, and I am careful to only feed him 1 at a time so pellets don't sit at the bottom...but I imagine he's pooping LOL.

Thank you! My reply below applies here as well:

So, given this information, I'll keep doing what I'm doing. However, what if my Nitrates continue to remain at 0? Eventually I have to see nitrates, yeah? That's what's confusing me. Ammonia is staying low, nitrites are always at 0, but my nitrates remain at 0. I know it's only 1 betta, and I am careful to only feed him 1 at a time so pellets don't sit at the bottom...but I imagine he's pooping LOL.
OKAY brief update:

I tested my waters again today and the readings are...

~.25-.5 ammonia, 0 nitrite, 0 nitrate

HOWEVER, I decided to test filtered water (from my brita filter) and tap water from my sink...both looked almost identical to the fish water!

Please take a look at the photos. First is the ammonia for my filtered water (left tube) and tap water (2nd tube). The second photo has the parameters of my fish water for ammonia/nitrite/nitrate.

What does this mean then? I'm still concerned that there are literally 0 nitrates though...just confused!

Thank you! I responded below. Any suggestions moving forward?

I see nitrate if the vial on the far right with the chart is a nitrate test as it appears to be. Low but not nonexistent, looks like 5ppm to me. Zero nitrates would be yellow.

Ammonia looks to be .5ppm and it really should be zero but the fish is in no danger from it at that level.

 

[matthewjensen3033]

I see nitrate if the vial on the far right with the chart is a nitrate test as it appears to be. Low but not nonexistent, looks like 5ppm to me. Zero nitrates would be yellow.

Ammonia looks to be .5ppm and it really should be zero but the fish is in no danger from it at that level.

Okay, good to know!

Any suggestions to get the ammonia to 0 and nitrates up? Just keep waiting? Does it matter that my tap and filtered water appear to be the same green as my fish tank water?

 

[RayClem]

The ammonia level will never be zero, but it should normally be undetectable using the typical test kits once the nitrogen cycle is completed. The tank has not been set up long enough for the nitrogen cycle to complete, so this is not a concern.

Adding substrate from an established tank will provide suitable bacteria to help development of colonies of beneficial bacteria to support the nitrogen cycle.

One thing I would suggest is testing the ammonia content of your tap water straight from the tap, without any filtration. Many communities today are using chloramine to disinfect tap water. Chloramine is typically created by adding 1 ppm ammonia to 3 ppm chlorine. It is a very stable molecule that his ideal for water disinfection, but not so ideal for aquariums.

Typical sodium thiosulfate based water conditioners will break the chloramine bond releasing chlorine and ammonia. The thiosulfate will then react with the chlorine to reduce it to chloride ion which is non-toxic. However, the ammonia is left behind in the water. This is not an issue after the tank is fully cycled as bacteria will convert the ammonia to nitrite and then to nitrate. However, in the early days of the cycle, there might not be sufficient bacteria to do this. That is why I recommended not doing water changes unless the ammonia exceeds 0.5 ppm.

 

[mattgirl]

With just one little fish in a 10 gallon tank it may be quite a while before you start seeing nitrates. Personally I wouldn't be concerned about not seeing them. Eventually they will show up.

The most important readings are ammonia and/or nitrites.You want to see both of them as close to zero as possible. As long as they are your fish won't be in any danger.

 

[Fishfur]

With just one little fish in a 10 gallon tank it may be quite a while before you start seeing nitrates. Personally I wouldn't be concerned about not seeing them. Eventually they will show up.

The most important readings are ammonia and/or nitrites.You want to see both of them as close to zero as possible. As long as they are your fish won't be in any danger.

According to the test vial picture posted, there are nitrates, about 5ppm.

Okay, good to know!

Any suggestions to get the ammonia to 0 and nitrates up? Just keep waiting? Does it matter that my tap and filtered water appear to be the same green as my fish tank water?

As RayClem said, if there’s ammonia in the tap water you may not see zero ammonia until this cycle is fully mature, if your tap water contains chloramine. It’s a lot more persistent in water than chlorine is but the cycle converts it just as does the constant output from fish.

A little patience should see it go to zero.

 

[matthewjensen3033]

Thank you everyone!!

Based on my pictures, my tap water definitely has ammonia, but even my filtered water (Brita) had ammonia (same shade of green).

Last question, in this case should I not do any water changes unless my ammonia goes any higher? Given my PH of 7.4 and temp of 78, I appear to be in the green range based on the ammonia calculator.

Thank you, everyone!

 

[Fishfur]

Thank you everyone!!

Based on my pictures, my tap water definitely has ammonia, but even my filtered water (Brita) had ammonia (same shade of green).

Last question, in this case should I not do any water changes unless my ammonia goes any higher? Given my PH of 7.4 and temp of 78, I appear to be in the green range based on the ammonia calculator.

Thank you, everyone!

What’s the green range? Just curious, I don’t recall seeing that on the calculator.

I would carry on doing weekly water changes because they are not done only to reduce toxins but also to bring in fresh minerals & buffers so they should be done regularly whenever there is a fish in the tank.

Ammonia isn’t likely to be an issue with one betta but there’s no good reason to stop doing water changes just because all the test parameters look acceptable.

 

[matthewjensen3033]

I use this chart:

Your Guide to Ammonia Toxicity - Aquarium Advice - Aquarium Forum Community

I’ll do a water change tomorrow. Thank you, everyone!

 

[Fishfur]

I use this chart:

Your Guide to Ammonia Toxicity - Aquarium Advice - Aquarium Forum Community

I’ll do a water change tomorrow. Thank you, everyone!

Thanks for the link.

 

[RayClem]

Since your tap water contains ammonia (chloramine), I would suggest that you NOT do a 50% water change. You would be better off doing a 10-20% water change so your fish does not get exposed to so much ammonia from the tap water. I understand that this is contrary to the advice of many fishkeepers, but chloramine has had a major impact on aquarium maintenance.

 

[matthewjensen3033]

Since your tap water contains ammonia (chloramine), I would suggest that you NOT do a 50% water change. You would be better off doing a 10-20% water change so your fish does not get exposed to so much ammonia from the tap water. I understand that this is contrary to the advice of many fishkeepers, but chloramine has had a major impact on aquarium maintenance.

Thank you so much! I did about a 25% water change yesterday. Tried to not pick up too much of my gravel/sand at the bottom given the sand came from an established tank. Hoping I see results in the near future!

 

[matthewjensen3033]

Tested my parameters today, they remain the same: ~.25 ammonia (after water change, hard to tell but looks between .25 and .5), 0 nitrites, 0 nitrates. Pearl (she's a white betta) continues to be a happy camper. I continue to feed her daily.

Since I feed her 1 pellet at a time, it is rare that a pellet sinks to the bottom. Could this be why my ammonia is always relatively low (.25-.5), aside from the fact that it's just 1 fish? Could this impact how long it takes to cycle because ammonia is minimal?

I'll continue to check parameters daily, hoping the cycle kicks in eventually.

Thanks everyone!

 

[matthewjensen3033]

Hi everyone,

Tested water again, and this was the first time I saw a clear nitrate reading!

Looks like 0.25 ammonia still (although in the photo it looks more like 0.5), 0 nitrite, and 5 nitrate. I'm hoping this is a good sign. Is it normal to have nitrates but still have ammonia?

Just confirming, at this point I don't need to do a water change, correct? I've attached a photo of the tubes here.

 

[RayClem]

If your tap water contains chloramine (typically 1 ppm ammonia, 3 ppm chlorine) and you do a 25% water change, you will be adding 0.25 ppm to your tank. Wait until the ammonia drops below 0.25% before the next water change. Nitrite is zero so that is good. Nitrates appear to be below 20 ppm, so that is not an issue at this time. If the nitrates start getting above 20 ppm, then consider doing a water change, but no more than 25% due to the chloramine in the tap water.

 

[matthewjensen3033]

Thank you! Would you say we are getting close to being cycled? I could also buy bottled water and use that in the future.

 

[RayClem]

Thank you! Would you say we are getting close to being cycled? I could also buy bottled water and use that in the future.

You are close to being cycled. d

Yes, you can use bottled water; but bottled water can mean many different things. Some bottled water is tap water that has been filtered and ozonated. Some is spring water. Some is tap water that has been purified using reverse osmosis. The RO water does not contain the minerals that your plants and animals need for survival, so if you go that route, you will need to add supplemental minerals.

My tap water is terrible. It is super hard, alkaline, and has chloramine. I have my own RO system to purify water for drinking, cooking and aquarium use. For the aquariums, I add Seachem Equilibrium to provide minerals to maintain GH (general hardness). However, to top off water lost to evaporation, I just use RO water. If you use RO water, you might also need to pH buffer to maintain pH and KH (alkalinity).

 

[matthewjensen3033]

You are close to being cycled. d

Yes, you can use bottled water; but bottled water can mean many different things. Some bottled water is tap water that has been filtered and ozonated. Some is spring water. Some is tap water that has been purified using reverse osmosis. The RO water does not contain the minerals that your plants and animals need for survival, so if you go that route, you will need to add supplemental minerals.

My tap water is terrible. It is super hard, alkaline, and has chloramine. I have my own RO system to purify water for drinking, cooking and aquarium use. For the aquariums, I add Seachem Equilibrium to provide minerals to maintain GH (general hardness). However, to top off water lost to evaporation, I just use RO water. If you use RO water, you might also need to pH buffer to maintain pH and KH (alkalinity).

Thank you!!

I tested again today and it seemed like the ammonia went slightly up and the nitrates seemed to be a lighter shade of orange…ugh! And I worry about my Betta so much.

on another note, my wife noticed what looked like a ‘bump’ on his side (half way down his body), although his other side seemed to have the same bump (albeit maybe smaller). Hoping it’s nothing and I’m just over-worrying lol. Just in case I didn’t feed her today!

 

[fishywoo]

Thank you!!

I tested again today and it seemed like the ammonia went slightly up and the nitrates seemed to be a lighter shade of orange…ugh! And I worry about my Betta so much.

on another note, my wife noticed what looked like a ‘bump’ on his side (half way down his body), although his other side seemed to have the same bump (albeit maybe smaller). Hoping it’s nothing and I’m just over-worrying lol. Just in case I didn’t feed her today!

If the bump is still there can you get a photo of it?

 

[matthewjensen3033]

I hope these are clear enough. Her left side seems to be more prominent than her right. She doesn’t seem bothered, she’s her happy self. Tank is still cycling but the free ammonia appears to be in the safe range still.

 

[fishywoo]

I hope these are clear enough. Her left side seems to be more prominent than her right. She doesn’t seem bothered, she’s her happy self. Tank is still cycling but the free ammonia appears to be in the safe range still.

I'm not too sure what that is, but I do see it. I can only guess, but would rather see what others say.

That color is stunning! She's very beautiful!
(⁠ ⁠◜⁠‿⁠◝⁠ ⁠)⁠♡

 

[matthewjensen3033]

I'm not too sure what that is, but I do see it. I can only guess, but would rather see what others say.

That color is stunning! She's very beautiful!
(⁠ ⁠◜⁠‿⁠◝⁠ ⁠)⁠♡

Thank you! Her name is Pearl. She’s so social and is acting 100% normal. I’m hoping it’s just the shape of her body…it’s weird that it’s on both sides but appears larger on one side! She’s also nearly translucent so I can see everything lol

 

[matthewjensen3033]

Hello everyone,

It has officially been nearly a month since I got my baby girl, Pearl. She’s in a 10 gallon tank by herself with silk plants, caves, heater set at 78, and a solid filter! She is a social butterfly!

I’ve been doing a fish-in cycle using Prime. I had been using stability but switched to TSS+ 1.5 weeks in after having to switch out my wacky filter (long story, but it was cheap and making a horrible sound). I did transfer some of the ceramic beads to salvage whatever BB I could. I put the whole bottle of TSS+ directly into the filter, and I just finished the 2 weeks. I’ve attached a photo of current readings:

ammonia: 0.5 (looks like more in the photo, but when I hold it against the white areas next to the chart and under the light, it closely matches .5)
Nitrite: 0 (never seen any)
Nitrate: 5

I’ve only done 1 25% water change a few days ago due to a scare with Pearl (she had swim bladder disease but recovered after a 2-day fast), but otherwise I’ve followed the TSS instructions to a T.

Any suggestions?
If it helps, my tap water does contain ammonia but no nitrates (when I did the water change, I used bottled spring water with Prime).

Forgot to add, for extra peace of mind I put a Seachem alert badge in there. It’s always been in the ‘safe’ range!

Also, PH is around 7.4.

 

[FishDin]

How much ammonia is in the tap water? Don't add any more fish yet (if that is your plan).

 

[matthewjensen3033]

How much ammonia is in the tap water? Don't add any more fish yet (if that is your plan).

I would say about .5 is in the tap water, so about the the same as the tank!

I have no plans of adding more fish .

 

[FishDin]

Of course it's always good not to add ammonia to the tank, but people with ammonia in their tap water do use it. The goal is to build your biological filter to the point that it can consume the ammonia that is added. Live plants will also use ammonia. Plants can include floating plants and terrestrial plants that are rooted in the tank water. A common one is pothos, but there are others. Of course, traditional aquatic plants are good too. Plants with access to air will generally use more nutrients as they have more CO2 available to them.

Once the tank is cycled so that there is no ammonia or nitrite I think you will be good to use your tap if you want. If the ammonia is zero before the water change and you do a 50% water change, the tank will end up with .25ppm afterward, which you biofilter should easily process. Also, at your temp and pH, most of that ammonia would be in a nontoxic form.

 

[SparkyJones]

I'm just going to say a couple things. The ammonia in your tap water is from chloramine water treatment. it's chlorine and ammonium bonded in order to give the chlorine longevity, when you use dechlorinator it strips the chlorine out and leave the ammonium. this should not be an issue for the fish since the ammonium ions are too large to pass into the fish (this goes back to the earlier discussion on pH and Temp and ammoina/ammonium levels).

in theory though, your .05 ammonia, is your zero, you are going to keep doing water changes. there's always going to be some trace ammonia present on a "total ammonia test" which is what we use in the hobby, from the tap water. you really only have to be concerned with "free ammonia" the ammonia that is as ammonia. if it's in any other form it's nowhere near as dangerous.

next, the nitrites. Because you used Stability and TSS+, it's very likely you never see nitrites. some people don't see the nitrites without it because all of the time is spent on the ammonia breakers reproduction, while the nitrite breaker reproduction builds quicker and in parallel to the ammonia beakers ESPECIALLY when you are doing fish in cycle. Theres always ammonia trickling, and there are going to be all forms of bacteria in and on the fish.
theres going to be your bacteria colony working on ammonia immediately and throughout while anmmonia and nitrites are all staying low because you didn't overstock. You just may never see nitrates.

So here we are 30 days in, you've got a touch of ammonia that can be from the tapwater, you've got no nitrites visible, and you've got 5 nitrates.

I think you are cycled for the one fish you have. keep an eye on the ammonia to see if it rises anymore and keep an eye on the nitrates, you are looking for the ammonia to stay the same and the nitrates to go up to 10ppm, even 20ppm, if that's happening it's cycled.

Now if you find that to be the case don't run out and buy a bunch of fish, you are cycled for what you have in there, not for what you want to keep, if you do increase stocking be mindful of that fact and just get one more fish of similar size or smaller, this will keep the chance of overloading ti and causing a spike to a minimum. after a week or two you can double again if you want to, but keep in mind it's just a 10 gallon aquarium and it can't house a ton of fish or large fish, and you'll be ok.

yeah, I think it's likely cycled being that it's been a month and you used a booster, fish in cycling generally takes 3-4 weeks because the fish brings a starter group of bacteria for everything needed on it and in it.

fishless cycling takes longer, you have to start with pure ammonia, and then build ammonia breakers before youcan build nitrite breakers before you see nitrates, there's usually a "pile" from the ammonia dosing, and this is where you "see" the ammonia, and the nitrites in significant amounts, also why it takes longer, because fish in cyclings step 1 comes with all forms of bacteria, food and poop, while fishless cyclings step 1 is ammonia and only ammonia.

fish in's step one starts it all at the same time, while fishless has it going in phases with decay bacteria being the last step instead of the first step and happening at the same time, fishless doesn't get you much decay bacteria until after it's cycled and the fish are introduced.

 

[matthewjensen3033]

Thank you all, you’ve been wonderful. Ammonia is down to .25, nitrites at 0, nitrates a solid 5. Not planning to add any more fish .

 

[Azedenkae]

Thank you all, you’ve been wonderful. Ammonia is down to .25, nitrites at 0, nitrates a solid 5. Not planning to add any more fish .

How's it goin'? Ammonia zero yet or still 0.25ppm?

 

[matthewjensen3033]

How's it goin'? Ammonia zero yet or still 0.25ppm?

Finally at 0!!!! What’s funny is I have glass and plastic API tubes (from 2 separate kits), and I swear the ammonia readings look different depending on the tube I use. I decided to use bottled spring water (since my tap water has ammonia so I can’t use that as my 0 reading) and tank water in plastic tubes, and they both were identical yellow-ish, so I feel more comfortable now!

Finally at 0!!!! What’s funny is I have glass and plastic API tubes (from 2 separate kits), and I swear the ammonia readings look different depending on the tube I use. I decided to use bottled spring water (since my tap water has ammonia so I can’t use that as my 0 reading) and tank water in plastic tubes, and they both were identical yellow-ish, so I feel more comfortable now!

And nitrates at 10 or so . Going to wait and do a water change on Sunday!

Finally at 0!!!! What’s funny is I have glass and plastic API tubes (from 2 separate kits), and I swear the ammonia readings look different depending on the tube I use. I decided to use bottled spring water (since my tap water has ammonia so I can’t use that as my 0 reading) and tank water in plastic tubes, and they both were identical yellow-ish, so I feel more comfortable now!

And nitrates at 10 or so . Going to wait and do a water change on Sunday!

Sorry, shameless plug, but please see my post in the fish health forum for any guidance, just posted