Cory Laying On Side And Then Swimming Normally With Others

[DuhLilOtterDatCud]

Tonight I noticed that my albino Cory was laying on his side. I've had him with 5 others for about 2 months now and never had any issues other than a bit of flashing (I have another thread about it but I didn't get notifications, sorry Dave).

He's in a 26g high with round gravel and some neons, I noticed a few of the neons "scraping" their sides on my plant leaves.

Apparently this would indicate a form of parasite but I'm not sure.. would like some help. The Cory doesn't have a bloated belly or anything physical. As I wrote earlier, he has nothing different about him except those 2 minutes of laying on a leaf...

As of writing this I just noticed another Cory doing a slight twitch on the gravel.

Any help is greatly appreciated
Thank you

 

[Caitlin86]

Can we get pictures? Parameters?

 

[DuhLilOtterDatCud]

Parameters are:
Ammonia:0ppm
Nitrite:.25ppm
Nitrate: 5ppm

I'll see what I can do for picture, currently the light is off so ill try in a few hours



This is the Cory, haven't seen him redo the playing dead act, however I saw one of the others flash a bit so I'll try and get a video up.

This is the Cory, haven't seen him redo the playing dead act, however I saw one of the others flash a bit so I'll try and get a video up.

 

[vin]

I'm putting my money on the nitrite and not a parasite. That's most likely the reason for the rubbing and flashing. The nitrite irritates the gills. Are you familiar with the nitrogen cycle? You want to get that nitrite down to zero as it's toxic to fish and can cause them to stress out. If left too long or to build up it can kill them. If you you haven't already done it, dose your tank with Prime and perform a water change. I'd do about 50%. Then do smaller water changes daily (25%-30%) until the nitrates build up (<20 ppm is the goal) and the nitrites fall to zero. Once you achieve 0 Ammonia, 0 Nitrite and <20 Nitrate your tank is fully cycled. Out of curiosity, what is your pH reading?

 

[DuhLilOtterDatCud]

I'm putting my money on the nitrite and not a parasite. That's most likely the reason for the rubbing and flashing. The nitrite irritates the gills. Are you familiar with the nitrogen cycle? You want to get that nitrite down to zero as it's toxic to fish and can cause them to stress out. If left too long or to build up it can kill them. If you you haven't already done it, dose your tank with Prime and perform a water change. I'd do about 50%. Then do smaller water changes daily (25%-30%) until the nitrates build up (<20 ppm is the goal) and the nitrites fall to zero. Once you achieve 0 Ammonia, 0 Nitrite and <20 Nitrate your tank is fully cycled. Out of curiosity, what is your pH reading?

Thanks for the reply,

I didn't add a space between the reading.. my bad. Nitrite is .25 not 25. I did my water change 2 days ago with prime, I'll redo water changes to get that down some more tho. My ph is 7.6.

 

[Landos]

Your tank is not cycled

 

[DuhLilOtterDatCud]

Your tank is not cycled

Thank you but I just did a water change and its back down to 0. I don't believe Nitrite poisoning is the problem.

 

[Discusluv]

I agree, most likely nitrite poisoning. Even at .25, nitrite can be deadly to fish, it is actually much more toxic at lower levels such as this than ammonia. The best cure is water changes and, if you can, at least 2 @ 75% today and re-test tomorrow. If still present, follow the same schedule. The other thing that is important is to add salt. Being that these are Cory's, you wouldn't want to do the recommended dose of three teaspoons per gallon because of their sensitivity to salt, but I would do 1 teaspoon per gallon to counteract the damage that nitrite toxicity does to the oxygen carrying cells in the blood-stream. This is why the fish die , most of the time, from nitrite- they suffocate to death because their blood-stream cannot carry oxygen to the vital organs of body. Act fast.

 

[Betrayer]

I agree that the nitrite is the most likely cause of the flashing. When did you set up your tank? It's good that you are getting a nitrAte reading because that means you are getting close to cycled. In a cycled tank, your ammonia and nitrIte readings should always be at 0. Even low levels can be harmful to fish. If the fish have been in your tank while you have been cycling, they are likely stressed and this can weaken their ability to fend off other health issues--ich, parasites, etc.

I would recommend frequent water changes until your tank finishes cycling.

Edit to say: It can all be a little overwhelming when you are just getting started. You are well on your way to being cycled. Good luck!

 

[Discusluv]

Thank you but I just did a water change and its back down to 0. I don't believe Nitrite poisoning is the problem.

Retest in a couple of hours, watch for a bounce back to prior levels- hopefully not. I would still add the salt.

 

[DuhLilOtterDatCud]

Retest in a couple of hours, watch for a bounce back to prior levels- hopefully not. I would still add the salt.

Ok will do, thanks for te help. Is the salt normal table salt or do I need something specific?

 

[Discusluv]

Ok will do, thanks for te help. Is the salt normal table salt or do I need something specific?

table salt fine

 

[DuhLilOtterDatCud]

I agree that the nitrite is the most likely cause of the flashing. When did you set up your tank? It's good that you are getting a nitrAte reading because that means you are getting close to cycled. In a cycled tank, your ammonia and nitrIte readings should always be at 0. Even low levels can be harmful to fish. If the fish have been in your tank while you have been cycling, they are likely stressed and this can weaken their ability to fend off other health issues--ich, parasites, etc.

I would recommend frequent water changes until your tank finishes cycling.

Edit to say: It can all be a little overwhelming when you are just getting started. You are well on your way to being cycled. Good luck!

The tank has been running for about a month and a half, this is the first time in weeks I've had nitrites so I'm not sure what happened, I added some shrimp yesterday, anyway thank you for the help

 

[Betrayer]

table salt fine

Make sure that it is only salt. Some table salt has iodine or other additives. You can use plain table salt or you can purchase "aquarium salt" at almost any pet store that sells fish.

 

[DuhLilOtterDatCud]

Make sure that it is only salt. Some table salt has iodine or other additives. You can use plain table salt or you can purchase "aquarium salt" at almost any pet store that sells fish.

Ok I'll check my table salt, if it's not good I'll go buy some aquarium salt today. Thank you

 

[Betrayer]

The tank has been running for about a month and a half, this is the first time in weeks I've had nitrites so I'm not sure what happened, I added some shrimp yesterday, anyway thank you for the help

You're welcome! Did you cycle the tank before adding fish? It can be a long process, especially if you don't have any seeded filter media to help it along. Anyway, you definitely seem to be on the right track. Hope all your fish feel better soon!

 

[Landos]

Thank you but I just did a water change and its back down to 0. I don't believe Nitrite poisoning is the problem.

A cycled tank should always have 0 ammonia and 0 nitrite.

 

[DuhLilOtterDatCud]

26 teaspoons of salt seems like a lot, I'll trust your judgment as you've been doing this a lot longer than me, just surprises me

 

[Betrayer]

26 teaspoons of salt seems like a lot, I'll trust your judgment as you've been doing this a lot longer than me, just surprises me

It does kind of seem like a lot to me too. I've never used it in my tank with my cories because I've been too worried about their sensitivity to it (and I suppose I haven't really had the need). Discusluv is a member that I trust though. Let's wait for her to come back and confirm

 

[Discusluv]

Not using iodized salt and salt with caking agents is really a long held and very un-examined myth.
To even suggest that it should be examined for its validity meets strong resistance. My mind was changed from the following article; and I quote:

Using iodised salt.
The iodine in the salt is in the iodised salt of iodine (this usage of salt is in the chemistry format, i.e chemical symbol for Iodine is "I" and iodine, sodium iodide is the sodium salt of iodine and is written "NaI"). The long and short of it is that any of the iodine salts used in making iodized table salt are inert and cannot react in water. Not using iodised salt is just another fishkeeping myth.

"Using salt with anti-caking agents
The most common antI caking agent used in salt is YPS (Yellow Prussiate of Soda or more correctly sodium ferrocyanide). The theory is that this will break down and release cyanide and poison the fish. The conditions required to break down sodium ferrocyanide are extremely unlikely to be found in an aquarium, let alone a discus tank. It requires massive amounts of energy, it is possible for the sun at midday at or near to the equator to maybe break sodium ferrocyanide down, but last time I looked very few of us have the sun as a tank light. If we were to put sodium ferrocyanide into a strong acid then it would break down and produce cyanide gas (HCN). So, how many discus or fish have we got living in a strong acid? And finally, given that the maximum permitted amount of sodium ferrocyanide in the EU is 20mg/kg that is 0.00002% and will no doubt be a similar tiny amount in the USA you would need an awful lot of salt to have any effect! Yet another fishkeeping myth.

The moral of the story
Use any salt you want to, the cheapest you can find, I have been using whatever salt I can get hold of for all my fishkeeping life and have yet to poison myself or the fish with cyanide!"

Via:
Salt - A basic FAQ

It does kind of seem like a lot to me too. I've never used it in my tank with my cories because I've been too worried about their sensitivity to it (and I suppose I haven't really had the need). Discusluv is a member that I trust though. Let's wait for her to come back and confirm

For the Cory cats I would not use this much salt- they are more sensitive to sodium chloride than other fish. Use it at half dosage of that recommended.

26 teaspoons of salt seems like a lot, I'll trust your judgment as you've been doing this a lot longer than me, just surprises me

Half that dosage.

 

[DuhLilOtterDatCud]

Half that dosage.

So 13 teaspoons won't hurt fish or plants? I'll do a water change and add that as soon as I'm done.

Thank you again

 

[Discusluv]

So 13 teaspoons won't hurt fish or plants? I'll do a water change and add that as soon as I'm done.

Thank you again

It will most likely kill your plants at that level. I would advise just adding a 1/4 dosage in this case, 6 teaspoons to your tank. Do you have an air-stone? If not, it would be beneficial to add one.

 

[Over It]

Just a couple of things.
Not saying your tank is cycled, but if you usually have 0 Ammonia, 0 Nitrites and 5 or More Nitrates your tank is cycled.
A tank can be "cycled", but have elevated readings when there are not enough water changes being done, too many fish in too small of a tank or adding too many fish at once. You still have the Bio-Filter, but it's not large enough to keep up with amount of fish you have.

I would not aI'm for 20 Nitrates unless your tank is heavily planted. My tanks all sit at 5 -10 and they are all cycled and have perfect water parameters. You want to aI'm for 20 or less with less being better.

If you can find it I would suggest Stress Guard. I normally don't like adding chemicals, but I think Stress Guard is a great product. I've used it with my Cory Cats when introducing them to my tanks and they have never had any negative side effects and neither have any of my other fish.

 

[DuhLilOtterDatCud]

It will most likely kill your plants at that level. I would advise just adding a 1/4 dosage in this case, 6 teaspoons to your tank. Do you have an air-stone? If not, it would be beneficial to add one.

Ok, I don't have an air stone, my filter does create a lot of bubbles so I thought that would be enough. I'm gonna do a trip to the pet store later, I'll get myself one of those if necessary. Will it help them breath?

 

[Discusluv]

Ok, I don't have an air stone, my filter does create a lot of bubbles so I thought that would be enough. I'm gonna do a trip to the pet store later, I'll get myself one of those if necessary. Will it help them breath?

Yes. It is good to have an air-pump and air-stone for times when fish are sick. good thing to have on hand.

 

[DuhLilOtterDatCud]

Just a couple of things.
Not saying your tank is cycled, but if you usually have 0 Ammonia, 0 Nitrites and 5 or More Nitrates your tank is cycled.
A tank can be "cycled", but have elevated readings when there are not enough water changes being done, too many fish in too small of a tank or adding too many fish at once. You still have the Bio-Filter, but it's not large enough to keep up with amount of fish you have.

I would not aI'm for 20 Nitrates unless your tank is heavily planted. My tanks all sit at 5 -10 and they are all cycled and have perfect water parameters. You want to aI'm for 20 or less with less being better.

If you can find it I would suggest Stress Guard. I normally don't like adding chemicals, but I think Stress Guard is a great product. I've used it with my Cory Cats when introducing them to my tanks and they have never had any negative side effects and neither have any of my other fish.

Interesting, didn't know it could come up even once cycled. I thought J was stocked at a reasonable level (6 cories and 8 neons in a 26g).

I won't be adding fish for at least another month, but I'll get it when and if I do.

Thank you for the response

 

[Discusluv]

Interesting, didn't know it could come up even once cycled. I thought J was stocked at a reasonable level (6 cories and 8 neons in a 26g).

I won't be adding fish for at least another month, but I'll get it when and if I do.

Thank you for the response

New tank syndrome, a newly established cycle can be very erratic and one can see rises in ammonia and nitrite that would not normally effect an established system. Over-feeding or too high of a bio-load for the bb is often a culprit here.

 

[Over It]

If you can find it now you can use Stress Guard instead of salt. I use it with my live plants as well and it hasn't hurt them. It'll help heal your fish from the Nitrite.

You aren't over stocked, but it does sound like you need to up water changes and make sure none of your plants are rotting. That can cause issues as well.
Extra water changes never hurt, even just 1 or 2 more 25% PWC's a week can be very helpful.
Sometimes even the smallest things can disrupt your cycle and usually extra water changes will get you back on track quickly.

 

[DuhLilOtterDatCud]

If you can find it now you can use Stress Guard instead of salt. I use it with my live plants as well and it hasn't hurt them. It'll help heal your fish from the Nitrite.

You aren't over stocked, but it does sound like you need to up water changes and make sure none of your plants are rotting. That can cause issues as well.
Extra water changes never hurt, even just 1 or 2 more 25% PWC's a week can be very helpful.
Sometimes even the smallest things can disrupt your cycle and usually extra water changes will get you back on track quickly.

I'll do that then, up water changes and get stress guard as well as an airstone. I think I'm over feeding, gonna try and cut back on that. I typically do a 25% water change every week. I'll try feeding less and giving stress guard see if that works, thank you

 

[Discusluv]

If you can find it now you can use Stress Guard instead of salt. I use it with my live plants as well and it hasn't hurt them. It'll help heal your fish from the Nitrite.

You aren't over stocked, but it does sound like you need to up water changes and make sure none of your plants are rotting. That can cause issues as well.
Extra water changes never hurt, even just 1 or 2 more 25% PWC's a week can be very helpful.
Sometimes even the smallest things can disrupt your cycle and usually extra water changes will get you back on track quickly.

How will stress guard, a useless product promoted to help with the mucus production of fish, help with the nitrite poisoning symptoms that his fish are experiencing? Nitrite poisoning is due to a buildup of methemoglobin in the blood, which compromises the ability of the blood cells to carry oxygen to the fish' body. Salt, however, will directly counteract this effect.

I'll do that then, up water changes and get stress guard as well as an airstone. I think I'm over feeding, gonna try and cut back on that. I typically do a 25% water change every week. I'll try feeding less and giving stress guard see if that works, thank you

No, don't use stress guard- it is useless for any application.

If you can find it now you can use Stress Guard instead of salt. I use it with my live plants as well and it hasn't hurt them. It'll help heal your fish from the Nitrite.

You aren't over stocked, but it does sound like you need to up water changes and make sure none of your plants are rotting. That can cause issues as well.
Extra water changes never hurt, even just 1 or 2 more 25% PWC's a week can be very helpful.
Sometimes even the smallest things can disrupt your cycle and usually extra water changes will get you back on track quickly.

Here is a little information on salt and its applications that you might find helpful.

 

[Over It]

I could swear when I first decided to get Stress Guard I read that one of the ingredients was salt. Now I can't find it. I don't think it's useless, but since I can't find that info if OP wants to use salt at a low dose that should be fine.

 

[DoubleDutch]

Only thing I am missing one important symptom of nitritepoisoning which is red or at least reddish gills. I agree it looks like irritation by "something in the water" but I doubt nitrite is the problem.

 

[Over It]

I've been using Aquarium Salt for many yrs. I don't know why you don't like me, but you've made it very clear.
If I can find the info I read stating one of the ingredients in Stress Guard is salt then I will post it.
At least I don't have a problem admitting when I might have made a mistake. Either way my suggestion would not have hurt OP's fish in any shape or form.

Using higher concentrations of salt with Cory's however can have disastrous results.

 

[Discusluv]

I would disagree, the browning on the gills is not always apparent when nitrite poisoning is experienced by fish. From the symptoms described, I would say that it points to this issue as problem. of course, I cannot be certain, no one can be, but the addition of salt would be what I would do if I was experiencing this issue with my own fish.
This is why I would disagree; and I quote:

"Nitrites are actively transported across the gills and readily oxidize hemoglobin to form methemoglobin. Methemoglobinemia results in hypoxia severe enough to cause sudden death but often the fish will live until they exert themselves. The term "brown blood disease" comes from the appearance of the blood that has high levels of methemoglobin (which is brown). Often, gross lesions are lacking, therefore; the brown appearance of the blood can be a diagnostic tool. Another diagnostic method involves measuring nitrite levels in the water. This may be unrewarding if mortality is high enough to decrease fish density and subsequent nitrite levels. Nitrite levels should not exceed 0.10 mg/1 in channel catfish or 0.50 mg/1 in salmonids. The LC50 for the majority of freshwater fish ranges from 0.60 to 200 mg/1. Saltwater fish have a much higher tolerance for nitrites."
Via: Nitrite Toxicosis In Freshwater Fish or Brown Blood Disease

I don't know why you don't like me

Oh, geez, I like you very much Tempset... nothing personal...

At least I don't have a problem admitting when I might have made a mistake

Did I make a mistake here? Please, give your input on this error, happy to hear what it is.

 

[bopsalot]

LC50 for nitrites in freshwater fish ranges from 0.6 to 200 mg/l? Which essentially is ppm? Thank you for that information! I have been wondering exactly how toxic nitrites potentially were. If there are fish species where half will die at 0.6ppm, that is quite toxic indeed.

 

[Discusluv]

LC50 for nitrites in freshwater fish ranges from 0.6 to 200 mg/l? Which essentially is ppm? Thank you for that information! I have been wondering exactly how toxic nitrites potentially were. If there are fish species where half will die at 0.6ppm, that is quite toxic indeed.

Yes, the toxicity level threshold is actually lower in tropical fish than for the same levels of ammonia.

 

[Over It]

OP, if I understand correctly you did a PWC 2 days ago and dosed with Prime correct?
Supposedly Prime will detoxify Nitrite and Ammonia up to 1ppm for 48 hrs. I usually play it safe and assume it's 24 hrs, but if it is 48 hrs then the Nitrites might have not affected your fish as much as some might think.
I would still continue with larger, more frequent water changes and testing, you can use salt if you want or not, I'm not going to debate that.
There are many things that cause fish to "flash", it might be good to look at any other causes so you aren't missing something that needs treatment.
Have any of your other fish shown any symptoms of anything, any unusual behavior?

I just went and looked at your other post. It appears this has been going on for awhile now and not just the last couple of days. Have you considered Gill Flukes?

 

[FreshWaters]

I have 2 species of c cats in my 40 gallon community and noticed this other than that they're healthy so I don't mind it. All my fish in my 3 tanks scrape the tank for food by kicking it off leaves and the ground,other than that they're healthy so.... I don't mind. If your fish do it all the time and you notice weakness with obvious signs I wouldn't stress it because in my exp when fish die they take about 3 days on average from illness not treated and you have a day to watch if they get any worse or not, if they do you got the 2nd day to act and that's after checking parameters and doing a water change. If you don't WC your fish with illness could die that night due to the water so you need to keep track of these things. I've learned that in order to enjoy fishkeeping and watching my beautiful healthy fish wasn't just about putting fish in a tank and being OK with it,it actually good speculation as it is an ongoing day to day project that may change within a few hours. Once you get a hang of maintaining a balanced aquarium you'll be smooth sailing in no time. Also I make sure to have algae wafers for my c cats since they share the leftovers with my chain loaches and the leftover food may run out especially since I have snails and added shrimp so they may be forced to try and kick up algae or whatever they can like scavenging. PS my c cats are nuts and all over the place and do funny stuff all the time...I wonder if its just random behavior. Keep an eye on it. Good luck.

Nvm I see people have figured you do need to keep up your WC due to your tank being not cycled yet

Also try using a small dry plant with a pump and use the roots as a natural nitrates ammonia eater which I've had good success with and addition to one of my early tank setups I was cycling with fish and may I say many fish which stayed alive and didn't show signs of stress as well. There are also filters designed for this or like I did I put a little good clean soil in a small plant container about the size of a Twinkie and put a single rootmass with a nice little plant above and I clipped it to the side of my tank to hold steady above the water level since its a dry plant and I ran a water line up to feed it a constant flow of my tank water from the pump on my tank floor bringing the lowest dirtiest water straight up not mixing with the water above since its in a tube until it reaches the plant pot and trickles down the holes on the bottom a drops out giving good filtration, PS I'm no expert but your tank and filter may need to cycle with a few weeks but plants are ready day one if healthy to eat that poison and unlike your filter which only converts a high level of poison to a medium then a low that your fish can tolerate,the plants probably eat all the poisons all 3 stages. Small water pump maybe 5 or 10$ water line$3-5 for plenty

 

[DuhLilOtterDatCud]

Wow you gave me a lot to read! I did do a WC with prime 2 days ago and another one today. I picked up the recommended things (not gonna list, got it all). I also added 6 teaspoons of salt. I'm not too sure how to do this whole dry plant in filter.. which plants do well etc..

 

[Denise Hulsbosch]

26 teaspoons of salt seems like a lot, I'll trust your judgment as you've been doing this a lot longer than me, just surprises me

I thought that salt was deadly for certain catfish

 

[DuhLilOtterDatCud]

I thought that salt was deadly for certain catfish

Yes, in later text we reduced the dose to 6 teaspoons! They are doing fine now, haven't noticed any new flashing at all and my nitrites are staying at zero, everything is resolved.

 

[Discusluv]

Yes, in later text we reduced the dose to 6 teaspoons! They are doing fine now, haven't noticed any new flashing at all and my nitrites are staying at zero, everything is resolved.

Great! So happy they are doing better!

 

[DuhLilOtterDatCud]

Great! So happy they are doing better!

Yes I am very happy myself! I am so grateful to all of you! Thank you once again all!

 

[Jared2904]

Hi, I just wanted to start saying I am a beginner and love this website. Everyone is super friendly and helpful thank you to everyone! My question is I have a 55 gallon tank with only 1 BN lemon drop long fin plecostumus and 4 Cory catfish 2 speckled and 2 panda. The 2 pandas I added about 2 weeks ago from my 10 gallon to give them a bigger home I love them. They have been doing great in the new tank But recently they have been hiding and laying on their sides only the 2 pandas though. I thought one was dead sadly when I went to scoop him out he swam off but payed back on his side. Now they just hide but are still alive I want to add 2-4 more Cory cats so they can all school together and more fish but just slowly adding. Does anyone know what is wrong with them??? Should I add more could they just be alone and shy in this much bigger tank?

 

[CHIMERA]

Definitely stress. Your cories will perk up with companions and feel much more safe with bigger numbers. Corydoras should always be in groups of at least 6 of their own species. Also are they pale? Usually when they are laying on their sides and too weak to upright themselves and pale, its an indicator of oxygen deprivation or nitrite poisoning.
Can you test your water and tell us your results?

 

[Jared2904]

Also my water parameters are good and do not fluctuate. No ammonia and I do 2 25% water changes a week.

Definitely stress. Your cories will perk up with companions and feel much more safe with bigger numbers. Corydoras should always be in groups of at least 6 of their own species. Also are they pale? Usually when they are laying on their sides and too weak to upright themselves and pale, its an indicator of oxygen deprivation or nitrite poisoning.
Can you test your water and tell us your results?

Of course! Thank you for the reply. I will test the water and post results. The water is definitely oxygenated from the filter it hits the water hard and breaks up the surface

Definitely stress. Your cories will perk up with companions and feel much more safe with bigger numbers. Corydoras should always be in groups of at least 6 of their own species. Also are they pale? Usually when they are laying on their sides and too weak to upright themselves and pale, its an indicator of oxygen deprivation or nitrite poisoning.
Can you test your water and tell us your results?

Ammonia- 0
Nitrate- 20
Nitrite- 0
Hardness- 75 soft
Alkalinity- 80
PH- 7.6
The Ph stays at this with the water around here
I also have one slate rock and piece of driftwood in the tank and lots of hiding places but they love to hide under the slate rock

 

[CHIMERA]

How long have the Corydoras have been residents in your tank? They are either having trouble adjusting, recovering from shock, or ailed with swim bladder issues. What is your acclimating process?

Ammonia- 0
Nitrate- 20
Nitrite- 0
Hardness- 75 soft
Alkalinity- 80
PH- 7.6
The Ph stays at this with the water around here
I also have one slate rock and piece of driftwood in the tank and lots of hiding places but they love to hide under the slate rock

 

[Jared2904]

They were in my 10 gallon just fine for 3 months. Then I moved them to the 55 gallon 2 weeks ago they acted fine but now are doing this. I don't know if the change in water conditions is just now hitting them? I️ normally float the bag for 30 minutes them add them. But these I scooped from the 10 tank and added them the water temp was the same. Was I still supposed to acclimate them?

How long have the Corydoras have been residents in your tank? They are either having trouble adjusting, recovering from shock, or ailed with swim bladder issues. What is your acclimating process?

They were in my 10 gallon just fine for 3 months. Then I moved them to the 55 gallon 2 weeks ago they acted fine but now are doing this. I don't know if the change in water conditions is just now hitting them? I️ normally float for 30 minutes them add them. But these I scooped from the 10 tank and added them the water temp was the same. Was I still supposed to them?

How long have the Corydoras have been residents in your tank? They are either having trouble adjusting, recovering from shock, or ailed with swim bladder issues. What is your acclimating process?

They were in my 10 gallon just fine for 3 months. Then I moved them to the 55 gallon 2 weeks ago they acted fine but now are doing this. I don't know if the change in water conditions is just now hitting them? I️ normally float for 30 minutes them add them. But these I scooped from the 10 tank and added them the water temp was the same. Was I still supposed to them?

Sorry I don’t know what that reposted so many time

 

[CHIMERA]

That's okay. Everybody does it.
Anyways, yes. You are supposed to acclimate then to an extent, but not seriously as drip acclimation. Honestly I would have done the same because the corydoras I have bred are adapted to different ph and hardness levels.
I think its stress for now.
When are you adding their new family?
They’ll be very scared like this for a while. Corydoras are extremely timid and do very well in HEAVILY planted tanks.

Sorry I don’t know what that reposted so many time

 

[Jared2904]

That's okay. Everybody does it.
Anyways, yes. You are supposed to acclimate then to an extent, but not seriously as drip acclimation. Honestly I would have done the same because the corydoras I have bred are adapted to different ph and hardness levels.
I think its stress for now.
When are you adding their new family?
They’ll be very scared like this for a while. Corydoras are extremely timid and do very well in HEAVILY planted tanks.

I have no live plants but lots of silk plants and hiding places. I plan to do a water change now and go get 2 more Cory cats to add tonight do you think this will help? Also they seem to not be eating. And thank you for all of your help I appreciate it so much!!!!