Cory Laying On Side And Then Swimming Normally With Others

Discussion in 'Freshwater Fish Disease' started by DuhLilOtterDatCud, Jul 16, 2017.

  1. DuhLilOtterDatCud

    DuhLilOtterDatCudNew MemberMember

    Tonight I noticed that my albino Cory was laying on his side. I've had him with 5 others for about 2 months now and never had any issues other than a bit of flashing (I have another thread about it but I didn't get notifications, sorry Dave).

    He's in a 26g high with round gravel and some neons, I noticed a few of the neons "scraping" their sides on my plant leaves.

    Apparently this would indicate a form of parasite but I'm not sure.. would like some help. The Cory doesn't have a bloated belly or anything physical. As I wrote earlier, he has nothing different about him except those 2 minutes of laying on a leaf...

    As of writing this I just noticed another Cory doing a slight twitch on the gravel.

    Any help is greatly appreciated
    Thank you
  2. Caitlin86

    Caitlin86Well Known MemberMember

    Can we get pictures? Parameters?
  3. OP

    DuhLilOtterDatCudNew MemberMember

    Parameters are:
    Nitrate: 5ppm

    I'll see what I can do for picture, currently the light is off so ill try in a few hours


    This is the Cory, haven't seen him redo the playing dead act, however I saw one of the others flash a bit so I'll try and get a video up.


    Last edited by a moderator: Jul 17, 2017
  4. vin

    vinWell Known MemberMember

    I'm putting my money on the nitrite and not a parasite. That's most likely the reason for the rubbing and flashing. The nitrite irritates the gills. Are you familiar with the nitrogen cycle? You want to get that nitrite down to zero as it's toxic to fish and can cause them to stress out. If left too long or to build up it can kill them. If you you haven't already done it, dose your tank with Prime and perform a water change. I'd do about 50%. Then do smaller water changes daily (25%-30%) until the nitrates build up (<20 ppm is the goal) and the nitrites fall to zero. Once you achieve 0 Ammonia, 0 Nitrite and <20 Nitrate your tank is fully cycled. Out of curiosity, what is your pH reading?
  5. OP

    DuhLilOtterDatCudNew MemberMember

    Thanks for the reply,

    I didn't add a space between the reading.. my bad. Nitrite is .25 not 25. I did my water change 2 days ago with prime, I'll redo water changes to get that down some more tho. My ph is 7.6.

  6. LandosWell Known MemberMember

    Your tank is not cycled
  7. OP

    DuhLilOtterDatCudNew MemberMember

    Thank you but I just did a water change and its back down to 0. I don't believe Nitrite poisoning is the problem.
  8. DiscusluvWell Known MemberMember

    I agree, most likely nitrite poisoning. Even at .25, nitrite can be deadly to fish, it is actually much more toxic at lower levels such as this than ammonia. The best cure is water changes and, if you can, at least 2 @ 75% today and re-test tomorrow. If still present, follow the same schedule. The other thing that is important is to add salt. Being that these are Cory's, you wouldn't want to do the recommended dose of three teaspoons per gallon because of their sensitivity to salt, but I would do 1 teaspoon per gallon to counteract the damage that nitrite toxicity does to the oxygen carrying cells in the blood-stream. This is why the fish die , most of the time, from nitrite- they suffocate to death because their blood-stream cannot carry oxygen to the vital organs of body. Act fast.
  9. BetrayerWell Known MemberMember

    I agree that the nitrite is the most likely cause of the flashing. When did you set up your tank? It's good that you are getting a nitrAte reading because that means you are getting close to cycled. In a cycled tank, your ammonia and nitrIte readings should always be at 0. Even low levels can be harmful to fish. If the fish have been in your tank while you have been cycling, they are likely stressed and this can weaken their ability to fend off other health issues--ich, parasites, etc.

    I would recommend frequent water changes until your tank finishes cycling.

    Edit to say: It can all be a little overwhelming when you are just getting started. You are well on your way to being cycled. Good luck!
  10. DiscusluvWell Known MemberMember

    Retest in a couple of hours, watch for a bounce back to prior levels- hopefully not. I would still add the salt.
  11. OP

    DuhLilOtterDatCudNew MemberMember

    Ok will do, thanks for te help. Is the salt normal table salt or do I need something specific?
  12. DiscusluvWell Known MemberMember

    table salt fine
  13. OP

    DuhLilOtterDatCudNew MemberMember

    The tank has been running for about a month and a half, this is the first time in weeks I've had nitrites so I'm not sure what happened, I added some shrimp yesterday, anyway thank you for the help :)
  14. BetrayerWell Known MemberMember

    Make sure that it is only salt. Some table salt has iodine or other additives. You can use plain table salt or you can purchase "aquarium salt" at almost any pet store that sells fish.
  15. OP

    DuhLilOtterDatCudNew MemberMember

    Ok I'll check my table salt, if it's not good I'll go buy some aquarium salt today. Thank you
  16. BetrayerWell Known MemberMember

    You're welcome! Did you cycle the tank before adding fish? It can be a long process, especially if you don't have any seeded filter media to help it along. Anyway, you definitely seem to be on the right track. Hope all your fish feel better soon!
  17. LandosWell Known MemberMember

    A cycled tank should always have 0 ammonia and 0 nitrite.
  18. OP

    DuhLilOtterDatCudNew MemberMember

    26 teaspoons of salt seems like a lot, I'll trust your judgment as you've been doing this a lot longer than me, just surprises me
  19. BetrayerWell Known MemberMember

    It does kind of seem like a lot to me too. I've never used it in my tank with my cories because I've been too worried about their sensitivity to it (and I suppose I haven't really had the need). @Discusluv is a member that I trust though. Let's wait for her to come back and confirm :)
  20. DiscusluvWell Known MemberMember

    Not using iodized salt and salt with caking agents is really a long held and very un-examined myth.
    To even suggest that it should be examined for its validity meets strong resistance. My mind was changed from the following article; and I quote:

    Using iodised salt.
    The iodine in the salt is in the iodised salt of iodine (this usage of salt is in the chemistry format, i.e chemical symbol for Iodine is "I" and iodine, sodium iodide is the sodium salt of iodine and is written "NaI"). The long and short of it is that any of the iodine salts used in making iodized table salt are inert and cannot react in water. Not using iodised salt is just another fishkeeping myth.

    "Using salt with anti-caking agents
    The most common anti caking agent used in salt is YPS (Yellow Prussiate of Soda or more correctly sodium ferrocyanide). The theory is that this will break down and release cyanide and poison the fish. The conditions required to break down sodium ferrocyanide are extremely unlikely to be found in an aquarium, let alone a discus tank. It requires massive amounts of energy, it is possible for the sun at midday at or near to the equator to maybe break sodium ferrocyanide down, but last time I looked very few of us have the sun as a tank light. If we were to put sodium ferrocyanide into a strong acid then it would break down and produce cyanide gas (HCN). So, how many discus or fish have we got living in a strong acid? And finally, given that the maximum permitted amount of sodium ferrocyanide in the EU is 20mg/kg that is 0.00002% and will no doubt be a similar tiny amount in the USA you would need an awful lot of salt to have any effect! Yet another fishkeeping myth.

    The moral of the story
    Use any salt you want to, the cheapest you can find, I have been using whatever salt I can get hold of for all my fishkeeping life and have yet to poison myself or the fish with cyanide!"


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