Ammonia staying around .25 and 1.0

[Lexiomibjj]

Hey, everything else in my fish tank is fine, (0ppm nitrite and nitrate) (6.4 ph) but my ammonia is staying around .25 and 1.0. I test it daily, (no fish in tank) trying to see when I can add fish. How do I lower this other than a water change?

 

[Itiwhetu]

Have you live plants in your tank?

 

[Lexiomibjj]

Have you live plants in your tank?

No.

 

[Itiwhetu]

Live plants will be the answer to your problem

 

[Bwood22]

Hey, everything else in my fish tank is fine, (0ppm nitrite and nitrate) (6.4 ph) but my ammonia is staying around .25 and 1.0. I test it daily, (no fish in tank) trying to see when I can add fish. How do I lower this other than a water change?

Have you ever seen nitrite or nitrate in this tank?
Do you know where the ammonia came from?

It looks like this tank isnt cycled and you need to let the ammonia sit in the tank until a bacteria colony is established that will convert the ammonia to nitrite then to nitrate.

Yes, plants will make the ammonia go away but that doesn't necessarily make the tank ready for fish. You need to let this tank cycle properly.

 

[Itiwhetu]

Plants will always allow fish to be added to a tank. Live plants are the most important thing in an aquarium.

 

[Bwood22]

Plants will always allow fish to be added to a tank. Live plants are the most important thing in an aquarium.

This statement is false.

We went through this on a different thread the other day when you were asking why people add ammonia to their tanks.

I highly encourage you to read up on the nitrogen cycle and understand the fundamentals of biological filtration (the most important thing in an aquarium) before giving someone advice that could end up killing their fish.

Plants might allow you to get by with adding a few small fish to an uncycled tank but you don't know what kind of fish the OP is looking for or what size of tank we are dealing with.

A few plants and a few Oscars or Mbuna is a recipe for disaster, death and future posts in the disease section titled "Why are my fish dying?"

Please make sure that if you are going to offer advice that you gather all necessary information before offering a solution.

 

[Itiwhetu]

This statement is false.

We went through this on a different thread the other day when you were asking why people add ammonia to their tanks.

I highly encourage you to read up on the nitrogen cycle and understand the fundamentals of biological filtration (the most important thing in an aquarium) before giving someone advice that could end up killing their fish.

Plants might allow you to get by with adding a few small fish to an uncycled tank but you don't know what kind of fish the OP is looking for or what size of tank we are dealing with.

A few plants and a few Oscars or Mbuna is a recipe for disaster, death and future posts in the disease section titled "Why are my fish dying?"

Please make sure that if you are going to offer advice that you gather all necessary information before offering a solution.

Thank you for that. You obviously have the knowledge to solve your problem.

 

[Coradee]

Thank you for that. You obviously have the knowledge to solve your problem.

BWood22 is not the op & this bickering over plants is not helpful, plants are not the answer to every problem though in some circumstances may help.
If you’ve nothing further to contribute to help the Op Lexiombjj
then agree to disagree & move on.

 

[Itiwhetu]

How do you lower this ammonia level then? I always like to learn new things.

 

[bored411]

Hey, everything else in my fish tank is fine, (0ppm nitrite and nitrate) (6.4 ph) but my ammonia is staying around .25 and 1.0. I test it daily, (no fish in tank) trying to see when I can add fish. How do I lower this other than a water change?

As Bwood22 said, it sounds like your tank isn’t cycled. I’ve seen your previous posts too and you need to cycle this tank before you can add any fish and this doesn’t just happen overnight. It can happen anywhere from days to weeks to months. Every tank is different though media from an already cycled tank can speed that process up.

Are you dosing pure ammonia or using fish food as an ammonia source? Do that to get ammonia going. Then the ammonia will convert into nitrite. The nitrite will then convert into nitrate, which is what you want.

Once all ammonia and nitrite levels drop back down to 0, dose ammonia again and check if it’s at 0 the next day. Once ammonia drops to 0 overnight like that and you have some level of nitrates, the tank is considered cycled and safe to add fish without a high risk of them dying.

It’s this beneficial bacteria that you need to ensure the fish you add who then make waste (ammonia) are able to survive without that ammonia building up and becoming toxic.

This post has a run down of how to do fishless cycling with ammonia. And this post can help if you’re using bacteria starter (TSS or Seachem Stability or others) and fish food.

 

[Coradee]

So as not to derail this thread further Itiwhetus question & responses have been moved
Why do you add Ammonia? | Aquarium Water Forum | 528990

 

[Lexiomibjj]

As Bwood22 said, it sounds like your tank isn’t cycled. I’ve seen your previous posts too and you need to cycle this tank before you can add any fish and this doesn’t just happen overnight. It can happen anywhere from days to weeks to months. Every tank is different though media from an already cycled tank can speed that process up.

Are you dosing pure ammonia or using fish food as an ammonia source? Do that to get ammonia going. Then the ammonia will convert into nitrite. The nitrite will then convert into nitrate, which is what you want.

Once all ammonia and nitrite levels drop back down to 0, dose ammonia again and check if it’s at 0 the next day. Once ammonia drops to 0 overnight like that and you have some level of nitrates, the tank is considered cycled and safe to add fish without a high risk of them dying.

It’s this beneficial bacteria that you need to ensure the fish you add who then make waste (ammonia) are able to survive without that ammonia building up and becoming toxic.

This post has a run down of how to do fishless cycling with ammonia. And this post can help if you’re using bacteria starter (TSS or Seachem Stability or others) and fish food.

Tested my water today, and everything is 0, ph is 6.4!

 

[Bwood22]

Tested my water today, and everything is 0, ph is 6.4!

But where did that ammonia come from?

How long has this tank been set up?

 

[SparkyJones]

Tested my water today, and everything is 0, ph is 6.4!

Hi Lexiomibjj,

I'm concerned. You arrived yesterday, and you say "(0ppm nitrite and nitrate) (6.4 ph) but my ammonia is staying around .25 and 1.0."

Today you say "Tested my water today, and everything is 0, ph is 6.4!"

this is not possible in a tank without plants.1 ppm ammonia becomes 2.7ppm nitrites, or 3.6ppm nitrates.
it doesn't just disappear. the molecule gets larger and gains mass as it works its way to nitrogen.
Molecular weight of ammonia is 17, Nitrite is 46, Nitrate is 62.

Your tank is not cycled, if it was cycled, there would be nitrates as an end product from the ammonia conversion.

If you absolutely have to get fish, and just have to do a fish in cycle, I can tell you the safest way you could possibly do it, and still you might lose the fish if you don't keep up on it until it's cycled. I don't find a thread on here for a "how to" to link, I have a method that works for me, but fish in cycling is pretty frowned upon now a days, and not encouraged. Fishless cycling is the hobby preferred method now.

The safest and least stressful way to do it is a fishless cycle, but you have to wait for it to finish in order to keep a fish, but it's safe for the fish since it's not there, and if you forget or get busy, it's not going to kill anything.

People do exactly what you are doing, take a water sample to the petstore, they test it and say "yep, it's safe for the fish, all zeros let's get you loaded up!" and then you bring them home and they are all dying within the day, because the tank isn't cycled and they come on here asking for help.

Rather than help you out of trouble, I'd prefer to stop you from getting into the trouble in the first place.

Please slow down. if you don't have nitrates, you don't have a cycle.

 

[bored411]

Tested my water today, and everything is 0, ph is 6.4!

Everything being 0 isn't a cycled tank (there are a few exceptions but from what you've said about your tank, your situation isn't one of them). You need to figure out if you're going to do a fishless cycle or risk a fish and do a fish-in cycle. Figure out which of these you want to do and come back here so we can help you through it. As SparkyJones and Bwood22 are saying, the tank is still not cycled!

I'm trying to keep this simple for you. So, do you want to do a fishless cycle? Or do you want to risk another fish possibly dying and do a fish-in cycle? Answer that much and then we can go from there.

But where did that ammonia come from?

How long has this tank been set up?

From their previous posts, they had a fish die while not knowing about cycling the tank. This is the same 20-gallon tall tank that fish was in and it was 2 weeks old when the fish passed away. OP said it was a fish-in cycle but they weren't treating the water the way they should for a fish-in cycle. My guess is the ammonia was left over from when their fish passed but I'm not the OP so I couldn't tell you how much of this is true. It's just what I've seen from their other posts.

 

[Lexiomibjj]

But where did that ammonia come from?

How long has this tank been set up?

I honestly have no clue, I have two 20gals, this one has been cycling for 4 weeks (no fish), the other just one.
(The other twenty gal hasn’t been mentioned before because it’s shared with the rest of the family, and I haven’t had trouble with it)

Everything being 0 isn't a cycled tank (there are a few exceptions but from what you've said about your tank, your situation isn't one of them). You need to figure out if you're going to do a fishless cycle or risk a fish and do a fish-in cycle. Figure out which of these you want to do and come back here so we can help you through it. As SparkyJones and Bwood22 are saying, the tank is still not cycled!

I'm trying to keep this simple for you. So, do you want to do a fishless cycle? Or do you want to risk another fish possibly dying and do a fish-in cycle? Answer that much and then we can go from there.

From their previous posts, they had a fish die while not knowing about cycling the tank. This is the same 20-gallon tall tank that fish was in and it was 2 weeks old when the fish passed away. OP said it was a fish-in cycle but they weren't treating the water the way they should for a fish-in cycle. My guess is the ammonia was left over from when their fish passed but I'm not the OP so I couldn't tell you how much of this is true. It's just what I've seen from their other posts.

Fishless cycle

 

[bored411]

I honestly have no clue, I have two 20gals, this one has been cycling for 4 weeks (no fish), the other just one.

Fishless cycle

How have you been cycling it? If it's a fish-less cycle, then you need to be adding an ammonia source otherwise it's not cycling, it's just sitting.

Are you going to add pure ammonia? Or are you going to add fishfood with a bacteria starter?

 

[Lexiomibjj]

How have you been cycling it? If it's a fish-less cycle, then you need to be adding an ammonia source otherwise it's not cycling, it's just sitting.

Are you going to add pure ammonia? Or are you going to add fishfood with a bacteria starter?

Pure ammonia most likely

 

[bored411]

Pure ammonia most likely

Okay, you need to get some pure ammonia (In the U.S. you can pick up janitorial grade ammonia at Ace Hardware. There is also Dr. Tim's Ammonium Chloride you can order online. It should contain no perfumes, dyes or detergents.) and get an API Master test kit and turn up your temperature (mid to upper 80s).

Once you have those, you can follow these instructions but I can break that down for you if you'd like.

 

[Lexiomibjj]

Okay, you need to get some pure ammonia (In the U.S. you can pick up janitorial grade ammonia at Ace Hardware. There is also Dr. Tim's Ammonium Chloride you can order online. It should contain no perfumes, dyes or detergents.) and get an API Master test kit and turn up your temperature (mid to upper 80s).

Once you have those, you can follow these instructions but I can break that down for you if you'd like.

I actually already have the test kit. My lfs sucks with the testing.

 

[Dunk2]

Pure ammonia most likely

I think you’re misunderstanding the question?

You started this thread by saying the ammonia level in this tank was as high as 1.0 ppm. Is that because you were adding ammonia to the tank? If you weren’t, what was the source of the 1.0 ppm ammonia?

And why do you want to lower the ammonia level if you’re doing a fishless cycle?

Have you considered using some of the filter media from your other (already cycled?) tank to jump start the cycle in this tank?

Maybe most importantly, are you familiar with the nitrogen cycle?

 

[Lexiomibjj]

I think you’re misunderstanding the question?

You started this thread by saying the ammonia level in this tank was as high as 1.0 ppm. Is that because you were adding ammonia to the tank? If you weren’t, what was the source of the 1.0 ppm ammonia?

And why do you want to lower the ammonia level if you’re doing a fishless cycle?

Have you considered using some of the filter media from your other (already cycled?) tank to jump start the cycle in this tank?

Maybe most importantly, are you familiar with the nitrogen cycle?

No I haven’t used any ammonia already. I have no clue where it came from. Just feel like the tanks had a good time to cycle already. Yes.

 

[bored411]

I actually already have the test kit. My lfs sucks with the testing.

Get some pure ammonia then from online or a store and we can walk you through things with doing the proper fishless cycle using ammonia.

Until then, can you check your tap water parameters? You should find out if there's any ammonia, nitrite, or nitrate in your tap as well as what your ph is from your tap. That way you can get an idea of what fish might work for this tank as well as if there's anything already in your tap water that might give you readings as you're doing the cycle.

Also, would you mind testing one of your other tanks for us? If your other tanks are already cycled you could use media from those tanks to give this one a jumpstart (as Dunk2 has said).

 

[Dunk2]

No I haven’t used any ammonia already. I have no clue where it came from. Just feel like the tanks had a good time to cycle already. Yes.

Like others have already said, I’m not convinced your tank is cycled. Sorry.

 

[StarGirl]

How do you lower this ammonia level then? I always like to learn new things.

Plants AND water changes to lower it. Some people have fake plants so water changes are the only way.

No I haven’t used any ammonia already. I have no clue where it came from. Just feel like the tanks had a good time to cycle already. Yes.

A tank generally wont cycle with no ammonia source. Sorry but your tank has been sitting for 4 weeks for nothing. There are a lot of fish stores that will tell people to "cycle" the tank for a few days. This does nothing at all but waste electricity.

Do you have a picture of the tank? What substrate are you using?

 

[Lexiomibjj]

Plants AND water changes to lower it. Some people have fake plants so water changes are the only way.

A tank generally wont cycle with no ammonia source. Sorry but your tank has been sitting for 4 weeks for nothing. There are a lot of fish stores that will tell people to "cycle" the tank for a few days. This does nothing at all but waste electricity.

Do you have a picture of the tank? What substrate are you using?

I’m using gravel

 

[cjcummings]

OP lost a fish previously with a fish in cycle from this thread. If he has not changed out 100% of the water yet then his ammonia could have came from there. Hopefully he has better luck (or the patience) this time around to do it right.

 

[Itiwhetu]

This gets really complicated. All I ever do is plant my tank, when the plants start growing add a few fish at a time. You need to have your aquarium with 30-50% of the tanks volume in plants. This takes around ten days.
As a side note a tank is never cycled, it is always moving. So, the term cycled is false. The tank will always be cycling to some extent.

 

[Bwood22]

This gets really complicated. All I ever do is plant my tank, when the plants start growing add a few fish at a time. You need to have your aquarium with 30-50% of the tanks volume in plants. This takes around ten days.
As a side note a tank is never cycled, it is always moving. So, the term cycled is false. The tank will always be cycling to some extent.

This tank is cycled. It has no plants. It will never have plants.

 

[Itiwhetu]

This tank is cycled. It has no plants. It will never have plants.

I always had plants with my African Cichlids, I always have plants in all my tanks.

 

[Dunk2]

I always had plants with my African Cichlids, I always have plants in all my tanks.

Plants are awesome for a variety of reasons, but they’re not necessary to cycle a tank.

 

[Bwood22]

The point is that a tank can be fully cycled and it doesn't require plants. Plants are not the answer. A stable bacteria colony is a staple for a well established stable aquarium. Period.

 

[Dunk2]

One final point about plants. . .

For a brand new fish (and plant) keeper with a brand new (and uncycled) tank, I think we’re missing the fact that plants often melt and sometimes just die.

When and if that happens, the plants are going to serve as a source of ammonia rather than helping to absorb it.

 

[Lexiomibjj]

OP lost a fish previously with a fish in cycle from this thread. If he has not changed out 100% of the water yet then his ammonia could have came from there. Hopefully he has better luck (or the patience) this time around to do it right.

I changed out 100% of the water

I changed out 100% of the water

the ammonia went back up to .50, guess it’s still in cycle
thank you guys by the way

 

[Dunk2]

I changed out 100% of the water

the ammonia went back up to .50, guess it’s still in cycle
thank you guys by the way

If you’re not dosing ammonia to or ghost feeding your tank, something in your tank is producing it. Or your test is faulty. . . What are you using to test?

Can you post a picture of your tank and your ammonia test result?

Finally, have you tested your source water for ammonia? Sorry if you answered that at some point in this thread.

 

[Lexiomibjj]

If you’re not dosing ammonia to or ghost feeding your tank, something in your tank is producing it. Or your test is faulty. . . What are you using to test?

Can you post a picture of your tank and your ammonia test result?

Finally, have you tested your source water for ammonia? Sorry if you answered that at some point in this thread.

Api master test kit.
ammonia from source is .25 (tap)
I just decided to use the week cycled tank, as my sister wants to take care of the other, so here is the one the last fish passed in.
Test

 

[Dunk2]

Api master test kit.
ammonia from source is .25 (tap)
I just decided to use the week cycled tank, as my sister wants to take care of the other, so here is the one the last fish passed in.
Test

I assume that’s the test of your tank water. Now test your source water and post a picture of that test result.

 

[cjcummings]

attach a picture of the ammonia bottle. I want to see the lot number. I am only asking because your test booklet looks kinda beat up and aged.

 

[Itiwhetu]

Api master test kit.
ammonia from source is .25 (tap)
I just decided to use the week cycled tank, as my sister wants to take care of the other, so here is the one the last fish passed in.
Test
View attachment 865331

That looks like a zero reading to me.

 

[Lexiomibjj]

attach a picture of the ammonia bottle. I want to see the lot number. I am only asking because your test booklet looks kinda beat up and aged.

It looks beat up because I’ve had it for a while, it’s gotten water spilled on it, etc. it came looking brand new though.

That looks like a zero reading to me.

I couldn’t tell honestly.
Like if it were .50, .25, or 0

 

[Bwood22]

From a colorimeter

 

[Lexiomibjj]

From a colorimeter View attachment 865332

I think .25 for current water.
The attached image is tap

 

[Bwood22]

I think .25 for current water.
The attached image is tap

You definitely have a tad bit of ammonia in your tap...but that's ok.

Once your tank cycles it will eat that ammonia up pretty quickly after your water changes so don't sweat it.

I'd still reccomend getting some liquid ammonia so that you can control the amount in your tank. I wouldn't dose over 1.5-2ppm in 20 gallons.

It will take a few weeks to build up your bacteria to be able to cycle through 1-2ppm in 24 hours. But it will be worth the time invested.

 

[Lexiomibjj]

You definitely have a tad bit of ammonia in your tap...but that's ok.

Once your tank cycles it will eat that ammonia up pretty quickly after your water changes so don't sweat it.

I'd still reccomend getting some liquid ammonia so that you can control the amount in your tank. I wouldn't dose over 1.5-2ppm in 20 gallons.

It will take a few weeks to build up your bacteria to be able to cycle through 1-2ppm in 24 hours. But it will be worth the time invested.

Ok! Thank you so much

 

[Dunk2]

You definitely have a tad bit of ammonia in your tap...but that's ok.

Once your tank cycles it will eat that ammonia up pretty quickly after your water changes so don't sweat it.

I'd still reccomend getting some liquid ammonia so that you can control the amount in your tank. I wouldn't dose over 1.5-2ppm in 20 gallons.

It will take a few weeks to build up your bacteria to be able to cycle through 1-2ppm in 24 hours. But it will be worth the time invested.

Lexiomibjj This^^^ and some patience will get your tank cycled.

Just be careful that you use pure ammonia (no surfactants in the ingredients). Pure ammonia has been hard to find, so I’d suggest Dr. Tim’s ammonium chloride.
https://www.amazon.com/DrTims-Aquat...aps,89&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&smid=A3GMBSXF8XL5PX

 

[Bwood22]

Lexiomibjj This^^^ and some patience will get your tank cycled.

Just be careful that you use pure ammonia (no surfactants in the ingredients). Pure ammonia has been hard to find, so I’d suggest Dr. Tim’s ammonium chloride.
https://www.amazon.com/DrTims-Aquatics-Ammonium-Chloride-Treatment/dp/B08GWKZD6N/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=35GQR27GMKAY&keywords=dr.+tim's+ammonium+chloride&qid=1668141640&sprefix=Dr.+Tim's+amm,aps,89&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&smid=A3GMBSXF8XL5PX

Lexiomibjj

This is the ticket!

 

[Lexiomibjj]

Lexiomibjj

This is the ticket!

View attachment 865340View attachment 865341

Thanks! And for future reference, would a ph of 6.6 be ok for an angelfish?

Thanks! And for future reference, would a ph of 6.6 be ok for an angelfish?

Just tested! (Nitrates are 0)

 

[Dunk2]

Thanks! And for future reference, would a ph of 6.6 be ok for an angelfish?

Your pH is fine for Angelfish.

You didn’t ask this question, but. . . If you’re thinking about an Angelfish in the 20 gallon tank that’s been the subject of this thread, a 20 gallon is too small for an Angelfish.

Stocking your tank will also require some patience and research. Will the fish work with your tank size, are they temperature and temperament compatible, etc.?

Move slowly and research. . . It will take more time, but you’ll avoid problems and frustration later on.

 

[Bwood22]

Thanks! And for future reference, would a ph of 6.6 be ok for an angelfish?

Just tested! (Nitrates are 0)

Definitely too small for angels.

On another note....glad to see that nitrite!

Give it some time and it will start turning into nitrate.

You should still get some ammonium chloride though. It looks like your tank is cycling through the ammonia in your tap water.