100% water change

It's been 4. That's how long I've had these lil fishes. Is it dangerous to not change?
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The carbon will eventually become "unactivated" and release the chemicals it had absorbed after a while, so its best to replace it once a month.
 

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The carbon will eventually become "unactivated" and release the chemicals it had absorbed after a while, so its best to replace it once a month.
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Oh shoot... lol. Thanks
 

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It's been 4. That's how long I've had these lil fishes. Is it dangerous to not change?
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No it isn't dangerous. What are you using for filter media? If it is just one of those cartridges. Don't throw away the whole thing. Just empty the carbon out and replace it with new carbon. I have a couple of good videos I like to share for figuring out filter media if you want to watch them. It may also help with your water issues. Let me know if you want the links.
 
No it isn't dangerous. What are you using for filter media? If it is just one of those cartridges. Don't throw away the whole thing. Just empty the carbon out and replace it with new carbon. I have a couple of good videos I like to share for figuring out filter media if you want to watch them. It may also help with your water issues. Let me know if you want the links.
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Yes definitely, can I have the links please? Thank you!
 

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I have a 2.5 gallon heated and filtered tank with a female Veiltail Betta (I've had her for nearly 2 months) and a black racer nerite snail (I've had him 3 days, lol). We'll be leaving next week for vacation and I'll have someone come to feed the Betta, but the tank will have to go without water changes and gravel vacuumed for 8-9 days. I've only had the snail for a few days as I said, but I've already noticed they produce a ton of waste. Just today he filled up the log decoration with a pile of little pellets of poop! In my small uncycled tank (I typically do a 50% water change every 2 days) I don't want the ammonia to get dangerously high during the time we are away. Should it be safe to do an 100% water change before we leave? I will treat it with Prime and make the water the same temperature and thoroughly vacuum the gravel, but I won't wipe down or rinse anything so the snail has bio film to eat. Any tips on keeping the tank safe for my Betta and snail while we're away are greatly appreciated.
 
After running for 2 months with the betta I'm surprised that your tank isn't cycled! What are your parameters?
 
Honestly I would return the snail and get another one when you get back. Or put the snail in another container. I wouldn't leave a 2.5 gallon without water changes for that long even with just a betta, much less with a snail.
 
I'll have to test my water, I haven't in a while. I have no other container for the snail unfortunately.
 
I'll have to test my water, I haven't in awhile. I have no other container for the snail unfortunately.
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The snail will survive in a large container eg. a large jar. The person who comes round to feed the betta can feed the snail sparingly- it (edit i.e. the snail) will survive an atom bomb let alone a 8-9 days without a water change
 

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How long are you going to be gone for? I would only have the person come sparingly... the less food the betta eats the less waste there is... can you show the person how to do a wc?
 
The snail is way hardier than the fish. It will be fine in a container. If you leave the snail in with the betta, you're going to have massive ammonia issues when you get back.
 
I get water changes are a pain, and it's hard to trust someone with it, but if they are already coming to feed the betta you must have some faith in them... carrying out water changes while you are away will give your fish the best chance of survival... (don't mean to harp on it, but really it's a good solution....)
 
Yikes, is it really that dangerous leaving Azzie and Zeus for that long? I did my prevous Betta (who actually was sick) for 8-9 days for that time and he was ok, but I sadly think I underfed him so he didn't have much waste. I'll have the sitter feed a pellet every other day, I usually feed more and I usually feed frozen foods but it's better than nothing. Going back to my original question, before I leave would it be safe to do a full water change?
 
9 days without food isn’t a big deal. Yes, you can do a water change before leaving.
 
What kind of container? Also I can't get my hands on another heater or filter or another tank.
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bruh no need for another tank for your snail, literally just leave him in a large glass with tank water, with some sand or pebbles and a piece of spinach and he'll be fine for a week or so.

Make sure to put enough water so that it doesn't evaporate and dry your snail to death.
 
Nirate snails are tough. When I changed filters I had one sneak into the old one. He survived two days in the bottom of a dry bucket; put him back in the tank and he didn't miss a beat. (I felt horrible that I missed him hitching a ride, but your snail should be fine for 9 days with better conditions than a dry bucket).
 

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I would just not feed at all, if them being in the same tank is your only option. If you can't do water changes, don't do food (sorry, but ammonia will kill them a lot faster than "starving" which they won't in 8-9 days... it's not ideal, but..)
 
What kind of container? Also I can't get my hands on another heater or filter or another tank.
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Put it in a Tupperware with holes poked in the lid. The snail doesn't need a heater, filter or a tank. Yes, it is that dangerous to have the snail pooping in the tank with the fish without water changes for 9 days. I wouldn't be surprised for you to come back to a tank with ammonia issues with just the betta in it. I believe you said yourself the tank isn't cycled and you've noticed the snail poops a lot sooo.....there's your answer.
 
I guess I'll get a tupperware for Zeus then, I feel bad taking him out after he only just got to experience a nice heated and filtered tank, but I guess it'll be betteer for everyone. I do have TetraPleco Algae Wafers, I could put one in for Zeus for the week.
 
I would have the pet sitter put in a tiny piece halfway through your trip. If you put it in before you leave and the snail doesn't eat it all it will cause lots of ammonia. If the snail does eat it all and poops a lot because of it, it will cause lots of ammonia.
 
I have a 7 quart container I had from when I gave my previous betta aquarium salt baths for his fin problems. I cleaned it with warm water and Prime and I cleaned some gravel for the bottom and put a bridge decoration in there. I'll fill it up and put Zeus in the night before we leave. The latch thingies don't really lock but go over lid, so I'll have to figure that out. I'll fill the container with warm water so it'll be warm for Zeus for a while.
 
I have a 55 and 75 gallon tank, the water in my 75 seems impossible to balance the pH and Ammonia out. I currently have a Tiger Oscar in there, maybe 5 inches, still small. I just added another one, much smaller, within 15 minutes of being in the tank, the smaller Oscar was at the bottom of the tank leaning sideways and hardly swimming at all. I put him in the smaller tank with the healthy water and he immediately was swimming around and looking much more lively. I've tried almost everything to fix my pH/Ammonia problem in my large tank. The larger Oscar seems to be the only thing that has adapted and can survive in that tank. Would it be alright to put the large Oscar in a much smaller tank for a short period and do 100% water change? Id keep the filter as is with all the bacteria and what not, would just change all of the water. Just trying to figure out how to accomplish healthy water for my large tank, and all the chemicals, filters and rocks/remedies I have tried have not worked.
 
What are the parameters? If the tank isn't cycled you only need to change enough water to keep Ammonia/nitrites down. Are you using prime? 100% water change isn't going to fix the problem..
 
I have a 55 and 75 gallon tank, the water in my 75 seems impossible to balance the pH and Ammonia out. I currently have a Tiger Oscar in there, maybe 5 inches, still small. I just added another one, much smaller, within 15 minutes of being in the tank, the smaller Oscar was at the bottom of the tank leaning sideways and hardly swimming at all. I put him in the smaller tank with the healthy water and he immediately was swimming around and looking much more lively. I've tried almost everything to fix my pH/Ammonia problem in my large tank. The larger Oscar seems to be the only thing that has adapted and can survive in that tank. Would it be alright to put the large Oscar in a much smaller tank for a short period and do 100% water change? Id keep the filter as is with all the bacteria and what not, would just change all of the water. Just trying to figure out how to accomplish healthy water for my large tank, and all the chemicals, filters and rocks/remedies I have tried have not worked.
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I'm not familiar with oscars' preferred parameters, but if you are using 'pH up' or 'pH down', you will have little sucess; you will have better luck with peat moss, IAL and driftwood to lower pH, and crushed coral or boiled seashells to increase pH.

What is your ammonia at, specifically? It is better and less stressful to just do 50% Changes every day, espescially at times when your fish is growing.
 
Also, it's hard to cycle tank with low pH, and cycling can actually cause pH drop. You may need to artificially raise pH just to get through the cycle.
 

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I'm going to skip a book's worth of questions.
Read this READ FIRST: Freshwater Beginner Important Topics
Stop playing with your PH.
100% water change will be okay as long as you use a dechlorinator and acclimate your fish BACK to the 75 (you'll need to acclimate to the 55 to move the big fish).
It is possible you killed any cycle you had by messing with the pH, if you had one to begin with.
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Thanks for the link! I'm not trying to play with my pH, just frustrating, I've put a LOT of money into this hobby and I have lost a lot of fish, ive bought everything that the aquarium place has recommended, pH booster, zeolite rocks, done water changes, different chemicals, specific filters, bigger filters, and for the life of me my pH does not want to cooperate. So if you were in my shoes, you would do 100% water change, use the dechlorinator and acclimate the small fish back into the larger tank?

Sorry guys, new to the forum, the tank has been set up for about 3 months now. Theres a white fungusy growth on my driftwood, the pH is low and the ammonia is normal at the moment. Ive ordered a bright LED light to help with the photosynthesis process which ive been told helps with making the pH higher, I also added Instant Ocean Sea Buffer yesterday with is supposed to bring up the pH and balance the alkalinity
 
What is your current ph? What is the ph out of the tap? What is your current ammonia reading? How long has the 75 gal been set up?
 
I'm going to skip a book's worth of questions.
Read this READ FIRST: Freshwater Beginner Important Topics
Stop playing with your PH.
100% water change will be okay as long as you use a and your fish BACK to the 75 (you'll need to acclimate to the 55 to move the big fish).
It is possible you killed any cycle you had by messing with the pH, if you had one to begin with.

Thanks for the link! I'm not trying to play with my pH, just frustrating, I've put a LOT of money into this hobby and I have lost a lot of fish, ive bought everything that the aquarium place has recommended, pH booster, zeolite rocks, done water changes, different chemicals, specific filters, bigger filters, and for the life of me my pH does not want to cooperate. So if you were in my shoes, you would do 100% water change, use the dechlorinator and acclimate the small fish back into the larger tank?
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The others are covering all of the good questions. Also, you are freshwater right? Listen to the others. If it were me and I knew what I was doing, I would do the 100% to clear the tank of all the chemical you messed it up with, and start from scratch.
Always acclimate your fish for ph, temp, you name it, espescially since the ph is not stable to them yet.
 
doing a 100% water change is never a great idea. Especially if your plan is to add the oscar RIGHT back into the larger tank...I get you would still have the seeded media, but the water parameters are going to be totally different, and you may shock the oscar with the TOO CLEAN water.

If you wanted to do a large water change I'd do maybe 75% just to 're-do' everything...but I wouldn't attempt to completely clean it out...unless you have been using a multitude of PH 'stabalizers'...

When using PH stabalizers, you have to be careful. Some are designed to be used 'in a pinch' (but rarely ever work) and others are to be used as directed. If you deviate from the instructions and skip a day of scheduled use, than your PH is likely to fluctuate in the opposite direction that you're attempting to correct for. and Don't get me started on mixing different PH products (i.e. using a PH stabilizer of two types, by two brands) at the same time -always a no-no. I typically stick to natural remedies for PH (like peat, drift wood, and/or tufa/calcified rock) rather than adding pre-made supplements, because that way, you're less likely to have swings or quick fluctuations and PH increase or decrease can be monitored over time.

So, What is your current PH? I have an oscar, my PH is around 8.0...they can live happily in a range from 6.0-8.0. They're from south america, so typically they 'prefer' softer water (around 6.0-7.4). BUT, again, they do fine in a range...So depending on what your PH is, and if it's staying the same (i.e. not swinging up and down-which is not good) than I wouldn't worry much about it. As long as it's stable, that's what matters. So, if it is fluctuation and that is your problem. depending on whether its swinging too high or too low, I've heard of adding crushed coral as a substrate for water that is too soft/acidic (-6.0). There was a thread the other day that I commented on, and another, really experienced member had a lot to say about PH fluctuations. Wanna say his user had the word 'Navy' in it. Anyway, I hope he can pop in and elaborate on what I'm trying to convey. You can balance out the ph by additives that are rich in tannic acids (to make soft water) or calcium components (to make hard water).

High ammonia is cause for concern though, If there is high ammonia in your tank and it's 'cycled'. Than either 1. there isn't enough BB to oxidize the ammonia (meaning you've either depleted your cycle somehow, or there was never enough BB to begin with) and you should do a water change. The water change will immediately help with ammonia. BUT, if you're not seeing an improvement in ammonia concentrations with just 25%, than there is way too much ammonia in the tank, and I would say it's not completely cycled yet...Or the cycle has been depleted somehow.

Edit: BUT, if you do a water change for ammonia, you're further depleting the BB living in the gravel bed....I buy Fluval bio or marineland bio-spira and always have a bottle of that laying around to throw into the tank after a water change. Its basically bottled BB. Some people used it to jump-start their cycle. I use it as a fail safe when doing water changes. To ensure I didn't take out too much BB in a water change to cause a spike. Something like that should help with the ammonia. Adding BB should help naturally deplete (oxidize) the ammonia rather than doing a water change to take it out.
 
Out of curiosity, why are you so concerned with your pH in the first place?? For most aquarium bred species, a stable pH is more important than a specific pH. Most species can adapt to a wide range of pH as long as it isn't fluctuating. So why you are caught up on your pH I do not know. Is it the fish store? Are they testing your water for you and telling you you have a pH issue?

What is your ammonia level in the big tank? How did you acclimate the new Oscar to that tank?

without knowing your ammonia, nitrites and nitrates, I can't really give an opinion on what size water change to do. But stop messing with your pH!!
 
Welcome to Fishlore. Glad you are here. Sounds like you are having a rough start & that is super frustrating (as I lot of us know from personal experience). Lesson #1 - your fish store sales people are Not reliable sources of information for many things.
Reading your post I get the sense maybe your pH is dropping & you are trying to correct it? As someone who had a pH crash which endangered my fish - I understand. If that is your problem, the good news is that the answers may be simpler than you think. Can you please provide us with the actual numbers for pH & ammonia & anything else you have (nitrites, nitrates, gH, kH, etc).
 
Lol, Heeyyy, I'm an LFS sales person. We're not all bad.

Aside from the chain stores who hire almost anyone. Some LFS are good in terms of educating employees and hiring individuals with experience owning aquatics. Though, I will admit we most certainly know far from everything. I'd recommend using places like Fishlore and other aquatics info sites (not forums) as your main source for reliable information, and then ask the aquatics retailer. We're not all dumb (or money hungry), but even I'll admit, I come here for advice and knowledge most the time.
 
I think it's worth specifically looking into your source water hardness (gH, as noted by Mom2some above). If you have low gH, or "alkalinity", your pH will be prone to shifts or swings. Fixing that, if it's the problem, is easier than messing with pH directly, and it will help to stabilize your tank.
 
Oscars can live pretty much in any pH conditions. But you do need pristine water conditions, stable pH is the best pH.. Oscars aren’t discus, they’re hardy but they’re also moody and sulk. Keep your pH stable and your ammonia and nitrite at 0 and your oscar will be happy
 

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Welcome to FishLore! I'm sorry to hear you are so frustrated, but don't worry, you've come to the right place.

The first thing I want to mention is that at a pH below 7.0, ammonia starts turning into ammonium and by the time your pH gets all the way down to 6.0 all ammonia in the tank has turned into ammonium. The good news is that ammonium is far less toxic to fish (some claim it is non-toxic). The bad news is that ammonium is a terrible food source for the ammonia converting bacteria and it can become very difficult, if not down right impossible to cycle a tank with a low pH.

But the thing you need to be careful about is that if you have ammonium in your tank and you start raising the pH, that not so toxic ammonium starts turning into highly toxic ammonia. And by the time your pH get to 7.0, pretty much all ammonium will have turned into toxic ammonia.

So what you'll want to do to get that tank cycled is SLOWLY get your pH level up to 7.0 or more so the ammonium starts turning into ammonia and then the ammonia converting bacteria can start to develop.

But the problem is that now your pH is getting higher and your ammonium is turning into ammonia, and now your fish is being exposed to toxic ammonia. So you will need to use SeaChem Prime (a water conditioner). A standard dose of Prime will detox up to 1ppm of ammonia and/or nitrite for 24 hours.

So test your water daily. If ammonia+nitrite are 1ppm or less just add enough Prime to the tank to treat the entire volume of the tank. If ammonia+nitrite are equal or greater than 1ppm, do a 50% water change using enough Prime to treat the entire tank volume. You'll need to keep this up until the tank cycles.

Generally a low pH is due to having a low KH. The safest way to raise your KH (and therefore your pH is by adding some crushed coral to the tank. You can put some in a media bag and stuff it in your filter if there is room. If not you can just put the media bag directly into the tank, or if you don't like the look of that you can just sprinkle it in with your substrate.

The amount you need is trial and error, but I would start with 1/2 cup, wait 24 hours and test. If KH and pH are both still too low add another 1/4 cup...repeat as necessary.

Best of luck!
 
I’m getting my water tested today so I will update my betta tank water perimeters later.

I think I should do a 100% water change. There seems to be some type on an oil at the surface of my betta fish tank and I did about a 55% water change 2 days ago, but the oil is still there. Someone mentioned it could be surface algae, but it doesn’t look like it at all. It’s also affecting my betta. Before the 55% water change it looked like he was flashing, now he seems a little lethargic. To me it looks like if he’s sad, and that make me sad

Anyway one thing that I think it could be is that I started using aquarium salt 3 weeks ago. I stopped using it though because it was causing my plants to die. I think that when I stopped using the salt it messed up the PH.
So what should I do?
 
Three weeks is far to long with salt. I would buy your own water test kit so you can keep a close eye on your parameters. I have a feeling you are going to have elevated ammonia/nitrites. What is your WC schedule?
 
Three weeks is far to long with salt. I would buy your own water test kit so you can keep a close eye on your parameters. I have a feeling you are going to have elevated ammonia/nitrites. What is your WC schedule?
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I have a 2.5 gallon tank currently, so I do probably about 45% water changes every week. I also only added a little less than a table spoon of aquarium salt when I did a water change. The first time I used it was 3 weeks ago, then I added the same amount 2 weeks ago during a water change, but I didn’t put any in last week.
 
I wouldn't use the salt and if possible upgrade to at least a 5 gallon. The surface oil could be from overfeeding or lack of surface agitation. Take a piece of a dry paper towel and just lightly skI'm the surface and that should remove it. Also as TWiG87 suggested get your own API liquid test kit to test ammonia,nitrites,nitrates and PH especially for situations like this when something doesn't seem right. I wouldn't do a 100% WC the amount your doing seems fine weekly. Also be sure to add declorinator when adding any new water to your tanks.
 
Well there’s no reason for a 100% water change. If you take all the water out the surface slime will just settle to the bottom and be back. Take a little cup and skI'm it off the top.
 
I wouldn't use the salt and if possible upgrade to at least a 5 gallon. The surface oil could be from overfeeding or lack of surface agitation. Take a piece of a dry paper towel and just lightly skI'm the surface and that should remove it. Also as TWiG87 suggested get your own API liquid test kit to test ammonia,nitrites,nitrates and PH especially for situations like this when something doesn't seem right. I wouldn't do a 100% WC the amount your doing seems fine weekly. Also be sure to add declorinator when adding any new water to your tanks.
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I stopped using the salt and this tank is temporary. I’m getting a 10 gallon soon. It’s definitely not from over feeding, but it could potentially be from the lack of surface agitation though. I’m going to try what you mentioned with the paper towel though. I also always add dechlorinator when doing a WC and let the water sit for about 24 hours.

Well there’s no reason for a 100% water change. If you take all the water out the surface slime will just settle to the bottom and be back. Take a little cup and skI'm it off the top.
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If I would do a 100% WC then I would probably wash the gravel as well. It doesn’t seem like a good idea obviously, but I just didn’t know what to do. I also tried taking it out with a cup, but it came back.
 
One other issue with 100% water changes is the possibility of shocking the fish with different water temps / parameters. Can be very stressful for the fish. That's why we acclimate our fish and not just dump them into the tank when we get them.
 
One other issue with 100% water changes is the possibility of shocking the fish with different water temps / parameters. Can be very stressful for the fish. That's why we acclimate our fish and not just dump them into the tank when we get them.
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I agree that a 100% water change would be too aggressive. I always try to avoid doing more than a 50% water change in a day.

I don't agree on the acclimation statement. I used to drip acclimate, but seeing so many prominent fishkeepers using drop and plop, that's what I use now, and it's worked great.

 

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