Questions about how aquariums work

Honem

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Hi, all! I have so many questions that I don't even know how to start. (Warning, this is a very long post with a lot of questions). I've been in this hobby for a year and a half now, yet I still fail to understand one of the most important aspects of it.

When I first started, I saw many people saying that water changes were absolutely necessary and that you should never go for more than two weeks without one, saying the water chemistry would start to collapse and parameters would become unstable (Ammonia, nitrates, and algae would start to rise).

But in the past months of having my tanks, I cannot fathom for the life of me how they get it to do that. Not once have I ever seen algae or even nitrates in my tank, never ammonia, and parameters never change unless I purposefully put something in the tank.

I used to do 15% water changes once a week in the very beginning over a year ago, but now that's gone down to just once every two months on average. I would frequently test parameters, thinking I would wake up one day and see a huge ammonia spike, or I would see that my ph has gone up to 9.0 or something. But my ammonia hasn't gone past 0.25 in over a year, and I have never seen a trace of nitrates at all. But the thing that has really got me confused is that I've had things die in my tank before and I didn't take them out, yet I checked for ammonia and it's still 0. What?? Fish, shrimp, snails, I've never taken them out of the tank when they die, yet no changes in parameters (I dosed Prime at the time, but that doesn't get rid of the actual ammonia?). I read on so many forums and websites that ammonia would spike, the water would start smelling bad, all this stuff. But it never happens with me? I would blame it on the cycle, but I still haven't seen any nitrates/nitrites.

And the algae. I heard that no water changes cause the chemistry to decline and algae could form. Even when my tank was at its absolute lowest, I have never seen a trace of algae. It was at one point I was actually trying to purposefully get it in there by making an unbalance of nutrients, and it still didn't work. I don't know how people get it in there on accident.

And the nitrates. Where are the nitrates?? I obsessed over that for the longest time because I thought my cycle wasn't complete, or that I had somehow reversed it or never even actually started it.



Kind of my main reason for this is so I could ask why we even need water changes. I mean, I've gone so long without one, but still there are others can't.

Another thing I had been wondering about is what makes aquariums different from
enclosed ecosystems.


Enclosed ecosystems that I have seen people make from rivers and lakes are sealed shut, and never get their water changed and never have all these filters and equipment, yet I've seen people document theirs that have lasted years with many living organisms. If that's the case for that, then what makes our aquariums so different? Why do some people's aquariums crash when they don't change the water every few days? Why is mine perfectly fine, going on 3 months without a change (no dosing or top offs). The only thing I have going- in all of them- is a small sponge filter for aeration.

Why did my 5 gallon, which had been going for 5 months without a water change, no dosing of anything, live so long before I got rid of it? The parameters never changed, many snails died in it (from low calcium) but no ammonia, but no nitrates either. There were so many other organisms living in it too. The fish in it were also perfectly fine, vibrant, ate readily, no diseases, no fighting.

Please note that when I'm saying all this, I am not trying to doubt or downplay the information I've recieved or words of others. I am not trying to brag or anything thing else with ill intent, I am just genuinely curious and want to know the meaning behind my observations. I can't stand not knowing how and why things work they do, and comparing my experiences to all of the information I have required this past year is driving me up the walls. Any thoughts or input would be appreciated! :)
 

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You are right that water changes are often over-promoted. I have a grow out tank for my convict that I added A LOT of dither fish too, way more than there ‘should’ be for a 10 gal. However, since it was cycled properly, it has no water parameter issues at all.

I do want to say though, that the fully closed ecosystems tend to include very small critters that allow for a relatively east balance to be established.

Quick question though, do you have plants in your tank?
 
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  • #4
Are you doing the nitrate test correctly? It is tricky. :)
Yes. I know they're not faulty or anything because I remember it testing <20 when I tried a cycle in a little 1 gallon. I shook the vials and bottles for 2 minutes each step.
You are right that water changes are often over-promoted. I have a grow out tank for my convict that I added A LOT of dither fish too, way more than there ‘should’ be for a 10 gal. However, since it was cycled properly, it has no water parameter issues at all.

I do want to say though, that the fully closed ecosystems tend to include very small critters that allow for a relatively east balance to be established.

Quick question though, do you have plants in your tank?
Yes, I do. However, there have been times where I have had more floating plants/roots than actual plants. People have said that floating plants take away Nitrates, but even in my tanks without them I've never had any nitrates.
 
You…didn’t take out the dead fish? That sounds like a bad idea.

I would say what’s happening here is that you really don’t have a cycle going. If you see any ammonia at all, that means (correct me if I’m wrong) that your cycle is not there.
If you literally have rotting fish in your tank, I don’t really see how you could have 0 ammonia AND 0 nitrates with few plants, unless you’re reading the results wrong, or have a faulty test kit, or doing something wrong.

It’s also important to note that water changes are also for the removal of solid wastes, which are simply unpleasant and unsightly, even if not bad for the parameters.

Algae forms when there is an excess of light AND nutrients- if you want algae in your tank, you need full spectrum light, and plenty of it.

The difference between aquariums and sealed ecosystems is the size of the inhabitants. It would have to be an awfully big container to have a fish and never feed it or take out its waste.

And yes, fish can still look vibrant and happy with no cycle. It’s not good for them, but it’s possible.

I hope this helps you! Thanks for the honest question :)
 

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Some people do stumble across ‘the perfect’ set up , some research the heck out of it to achieve it. How deep is your substrate ?

water changes and quality arent just about ammonia or nitrate though , micro nutrients and trace elements that we don’t see or test for are also important.

I agree maybe you personally don’t need to do the 50% weekly, if understocked, but for others it’s good practise and what works for one isn’t for the masses necessarily.

Every city and country have different water qualities too which can help massively to set you off on the right foot .

I cannot explain the snail death not making a stink though !!!!
 
In a no water change tank the fish in it gradually acclimate to the parameters of the water. There are things building up in the tank other than ammonia, nitrites and nitrates that we don't normally test for. A TDS meter should prove this to be true.

We run into problem when we try to introduce new fish to no or very few water change tanks. We also run into problems when something happens and we are forced to do a big water change. The parameters of water in the tank and the tap water are now vastly different. The minerals in the water you originally filled the tank with are depleted over time. A water change in that case could very well affect the fish in the tank.

Like you I don't normally remove a dead fish. Mainly because most of the time I never see them. I just do a head count and discover one missing. If we have a strong cycle it will prevent a spike of ammonia. It might be different if the fish that dies is a really big fish like an Oscar or a full grown goldfish but if it is a little one the other inhabitants in the tank will eat the dead one.

Stocking also plays a role in the nitrate level. If there are some live plants in a sparsely stocked tank the plants will remove any nitrates being produced. I am wondering how you get by with no top offs. The only way I can see that happening is if the tank is a closed system. If it is a closed system with no outside oxygen getting in there it is possible to have gone the last step in the cycle and you have grown the bacteria that removes nitrates as well.

Each tank is different so one size does not fit all tanks. We can even have 2 tanks sit side by side and think they are both the same but they can be vastly different.

I shook the vials and bottles for 2 minutes each step
Which test are you using that requires shaking for 2 minutes? For the API liquid the number 2 bottle of the nitrate test calls for shaking for 30 seconds and the tube for a full minute after adding drops from each of the 2 bottles. To be perfectly honest though. I wouldn't be overly concerned about seeing no nitrates. As long as you are seeing no ammonia or nitrites it doesn't matter if you see no nitrates. Most of us do though.
 
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  • #9
What kind of water test kit do you have.
I use the API Master test kit
Some people do stumble across ‘the perfect’ set up , some research the heck out of it to achieve it. How deep is your substrate ?
My substrate is 1-3 inches deep in all tanks.
Stocking also plays a role in the nitrate level. If there are some live plants in a sparsely stocked tank the plants will remove any nitrates being produced. I am wondering how you get by with no top offs. The only way I can see that happening is if the tank is a closed system. If it is a closed system with no outside oxygen getting in there it is possible to have gone the last step in the cycle and you have grown the bacteria that removes nitrates as well.

Each tank is different so one size does not fit all tanks. We can even have 2 tanks sit side by side and think they are both the same but they can be vastly different.


Which test are you using that requires shaking for 2 minutes? For the API liquid the number 2 bottle of the nitrate test calls for shaking for 30 seconds and the tube for a full minute after adding drops from each of the 2 bottles. To be perfectly honest though. I wouldn't be overly concerned about seeing no nitrates. As long as you are seeing no ammonia or nitrites it doesn't matter if you see no nitrates. Most of us do though.
My tank is nearly closed with a sliver of opening for the cord of the heater and the air tube to get in. I use the API test kit, its just that I had someone once tell me to shake them for a while because the solutions are really concentrated :)
 
My tank is nearly closed with a sliver of opening for the cord of the heater and the air tube to get in. I use the API test kit, its just that I had someone once tell me to shake them for a while because the solutions are really concentrated :)
It is a good idea to shake all the bottles before each use but a quick shake is all that is needed for everything but the nitrate bottle #2. It needs to be shaken really well to get an accurate reading.
 
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