20 Gallon Tank Nitrite still high after multiple 50% wc

[Countrypimp1981]

HI I am cycling my 20 gallon Nitrite level giving me a hard time. After multiple 50% wc nitrite test still bright purple. Any suggestions? I don't have access to prime or aquarium salt at the moment.

 

[TheeLadyG]

Have you tested your tap water for a baseline?

 

[Roger121]

if u are cycling ur aquarium is normal u have a nitrite spike, that is the idea, first an ammonia spike then nitrite spike and at last a nitrate spike, when the nitrate is high and the ammonia and nitrite become to 0, the cycle has done.

 

[Countrypimp1981]

I know this. But trying to get nitrite below 1 as to not harm fish.

Yes I have tested tap water and don't get any nitrite. I do get some ammonia though.

 

[Fljoe]

How long have you been cycling? I assume by your aquarium details it is a cycle with fish. When you do a 50% water change, it should cut your nitrite in half. It is possible that the beneficial bacteria is forming and is converting your ammonia to nitrite as it should before it converts it again to nitrates. I would do a 75% water change since you have fish. You may have to to it daily until your BB converts the nitrite to nitrates.

 

[Countrypimp1981]

How long have you been cycling? I assume by your aquarium details it is a cycle with fish. When you do a 50% water change, it should cut your nitrite in half. It is possible that the beneficial bacteria is forming and is converting your ammonia to nitrite as it should before it converts it again to nitrates. I would do a 75% water change since you have fish. You may have to to it daily until your BB converts the nitrite to nitrates.

About 3 weeks

 

[Fljoe]

About 3 weeks

Keep doing water changes with your water conditioner. Test daily. Basically until your cycled, you are the beneficial bacteria! Lol
You will need to convert the harmful toxins yourself until your BB is established.
I set up a 55 gallon 2 months ago. I test everyday and do water changes as needed. I haven’t lost any fish.

 

[coralbandit]

The % changed is the % the nutrient will be reduced ..
So if you have 1ppm nitrite doing a 50% water change should yield .5ppm
Likely if you did multiple 50% to get to 1ppm then your level was around 3- 4 ppm..

 

[Fljoe]

The % changed is the % the nutrient will be reduced ..
So if you have 1ppm nitrite doing a 50% water change should yield .5ppm
Likely if you did multiple 50% to get to 1ppm then your level was around 3- 4 ppm..

According to the OP’s aquarium details he is at 5 nitrite. Hey OP when you said multiple 50% water changes, what do you mean multiple in a day? Or over several days?

 

[RyanLee]

Its likely that your nitrite was off the charts to begin with. Just keep changing water, it will go down.

 

[Countrypimp1981]

According to the OP’s aquarium details he is at 5 nitrite. Hey OP when you said multiple 50% water changes, what do you mean multiple in a day? Or over several days?

Both, multiple a day for a few days in a row

 

[Fljoe]

Both, multiple a day for a few days in a row

You have me stumped. It should be going down with each back to back WC. Your doing the nitrite test with the 5 drops, and waiting 5 minutes for color to develop ?

 

[Countrypimp1981]

You have me stumped. It should be going down with each back to back WC. Your doing the nitrite test with the 5 drops, and waiting 5 minutes for color to develop ?

Yes is it possible that the initial spike was so high the water changes ain't enough to bring level down enough to notice much on test?

Should I do back to back to back 50% wc same day until I get it down?

 

[Fljoe]

Should I do back to back to back 50% wc same day until I get it down?

Definitely. If your getting true results on the test, you want to keep at the water changes. Keep the fish in a healthy environment. Do a 75% change and see what you test at.

 

[coralbandit]

You can test with 1/2 the drops to get 1/2 the level if it is too high and then multiply..
It is wide open to mathing your test ..% of drops to get % of true reading ...Saves drops .
I prefer 75% water changes when they are needed..
Not to choose sides but 50% out means 50% left in ..
Once you are through cycling little of this will matter and you can do routine water changes ..

 

[Countrypimp1981]

Well I did my 3rd 50% water change and one of my Danios died. The nitrite was lighter shade of purple hard to tell what level was. Gained a little bit of ammonia because of the tap water. Tested and had .5 when I had .25 before. Ph rises with every water change as well. I think the ph swing might have been what killed him, who knows. Done with water changes for at least tonight

 

[Fljoe]

Well I did my 3rd 50% water change and one of my Danios died. The nitrite was lighter shade of purple hard to tell what level was. Gained a little bit of ammonia because of the tap water. Tested and had .5 when I had .25 before. Ph rises with every water change as well. I think the ph swing might have been what killed him, who knows. Done with water changes for at least tonight

You really need to get prime. It sounds like your tap water might be jacked up. Doing a WC shouldn’t be killing fish.

 

[RyanLee]

yeah, prime will help your fish survive the nitrites and ammonia for 24hrs. Its a very good product to have and use. Easy to get on Amazon if you can't get it local. FYI If you age your tap water in a separate tank with an air stone for 24hours before using it, it will reduce the PH change your fish experience during a large water change. That method may be more trouble than its worth to you.

When cycling i've had to do some major water changing to get out of the off the chart nitrite your seeing. It just takes a lot more water changes than you would think sometimes. At the end of this you will have a cycled tank and as morbid as it sounds danios are cheap.

 

[MoshJosh]

As far as not harming fish I think you can dose prime. Even if it detoxifies the nitrite may still read high (does for ammonia. . . or so I’m told)

 

[Jerome O'Neil]

Both, multiple a day for a few days in a row

Are you changing with untreated tap water?

 

[Countrypimp1981]

Are you changing with untreated tap water?

Definitely not I use aquasafe plus as dechlorinator

I moved my remaining fish 1 Danio and 1 dwarf gourami into a small tank with fresh dechlorinated water because the Danio wasn't looking so good. Was thinking nitrite poisoning. Loss of color, tan gills ECT. Didn't want them to die. Will be visiting a pet smart to pick up some prime this afternoon and doing as many water changes as I need to to get the level down before I put fish back in main tank.

 

[Sorg67]

My nitrites spiked off the charts. I estimated something in excess of 30 to 40 ppm. My cycle was fishless so not big deal, but I did a couple water changes cause it made me nervous I was going to crash my cycle.

I estimated the nitrites by mixing 20% water from the cycling tank with 80% water from another tank with zero nitrites. That was after a 50% water change and it still tested above 2 ppm. Call it 3 or 4 times 5 for 80% dilution is 15 to 20, times two for after 50% water change is 30 to 40. That is how I got my estimate of a 30 to 40 peak.

50% WC => 20 ppm, another => 10 ppm, another => 5 ppm still maxing out. Especially if you are adding nitrates between water changes.

In another thread somebody told me that 1 ppm ammonia converts to 3.67 ppm nitrites so nitrites can get really high fast.

 

[Momgoose56]

My nitrites spiked off the charts. I estimated something in excess of 30 to 40 ppm. My cycle was fishless so not big deal, but I did a couple water changes cause it made me nervous I was going to crash my cycle.

I estimated the nitrites by mixing 20% water from the cycling tank with 80% water from another tank with zero nitrites. That was after a 50% water change and it still tested above 2 ppm. Call it 3 or 4 times 5 for 80% dilution is 15 to 20, times two for after 50% water change is 30 to 40. That is how I got my estimate of a 30 to 40 peak.

50% WC => 20 ppm, another => 10 ppm, another => 5 ppm still maxing out. Especially if you are adding nitrates between water changes.

In another thread somebody told me that 1 ppm ammonia converts to 3.67 ppm nitrites so nitrites can get really high fast.

1 ppm ammonia produces ~2.7 ppm nitrites
1ppm ammonia, after nitrite oxidation produces ~3.6 ppm nitrates

 

[Sorg67]

1 ppm ammonia produces ~2.7 ppm nitrites
1ppm ammonia, after nitrite oxidation produces ~3.6 ppm nitrates

Thanks for correction.

Seems like it is hard to clear the nitrites as long as you are adding ammonia. Can't get ahead.

 

[Countrypimp1981]

1ppm ammonia in my tap water

Tested and ammonia going down, got .25 but nitrite still off the chart. Going to do consecutive water changes to get level down and then dose with prime before I put my fish back in main tank. Right now I have them in a little betta tank with a heater and airstone. I just put some fresh dechlorinated water in there to get them out of the nitrite because my danio was looking like nitrite poisoning. I suppose I have another question I am unsure of. Is nitrite poisoning reversible? Can fish recover if conditions improve?

 

[Momgoose56]

My nitrites spiked off the charts. I estimated something in excess of 30 to 40 ppm. My cycle was fishless so not big deal, but I did a couple water changes cause it made me nervous I was going to crash my cycle.

I estimated the nitrites by mixing 20% water from the cycling tank with 80% water from another tank with zero nitrites. That was after a 50% water change and it still tested above 2 ppm. Call it 3 or 4 times 5 for 80% dilution is 15 to 20, times two for after 50% water change is 30 to 40. That is how I got my estimate of a 30 to 40 peak.

50% WC => 20 ppm, another => 10 ppm, another => 5 ppm still maxing out. Especially if you are adding nitrates between water changes.

In another thread somebody told me that 1 ppm ammonia converts to 3.67 ppm nitrites so nitrites can get really high fast.

What test kit are you using? The API Master kit only measures nitrites to 5ppm. Do you mean your nitrates are testing 30-40 ppm? "Off the charts" for nitrates is literally >160. Anything under 30 for nitrates is pretty harmless to almost all tropical fish.

 

[Countrypimp1981]

What test kit are you using? The API Master kit only measures nitrites to 5ppm. Do you mean your nitrates are testing 30-40 ppm? "Off the charts" for nitrates is literally >160. Anything under 30 for nitrates is pretty harmless to almost all tropical fish.

I am using apI test kit and am talking about bright purple nitrite...

I am using apI test kit and am talking about bright purple nitrite...

Sorry, I see you were replying to a different commenter

 

[Sorg67]

What test kit are you using? The API Master kit only measures nitrites to 5ppm. Do you mean your nitrates are testing 30-40 ppm? "Off the charts" for nitrates is literally >160. Anything under 30 for nitrates is pretty harmless to almost all tropical fish.

I estimated the nitrite concentration by diluting the sample with water from an aquarium with zero nitrites. 20% of water to be tested, 80% from 0% nitrite water.

That came out at about 3 or 4 times 5 to adjust for dilution is 15 to 20 and it was after a 50% water change so I estimate that my pre-water change concentration was 30 to 40.

Using API Master test kit.

 

[AngryRainbow]

Unfortunately since you have ammonia in your tap, you're adding ammonia which your cycle seems to have no problem converting but gets stuck at nitrites. Water changes are going to be a never ending circle until the nitrites start getting converted. Since a 50% change adds .5ppm, that's approximately 1.35ppm nitrites added. Doing a 50% change will cut that to .675, but you just added .5ppm of ammonia so an actual increase in nitrites will be seen once the ammonia is converted. Are your nitrates going up at all or does everything get stuck at nitrites?

I have read some sites stating that aquarium salt can be used to negate the effects that nitrites have. You may want to look into that option

Or if you have any other options for water. Such as bottled or from your lfs you may want to switch to that till you get through your cycle

 

[Countrypimp1981]

Unfortunately since you have ammonia in your tap, you're adding ammonia which your cycle seems to have no problem converting but gets stuck at nitrites. Water changes are going to be a never ending circle until the nitrites start getting converted. Since a 50% change adds .5ppm, that's approximately 1.35ppm nitrites added. Doing a 50% change will cut that to .675, but you just added .5ppm of ammonia so an actual increase in nitrites will be seen once the ammonia is converted. Are your nitrates going up at all or does everything get stuck at nitrites?

I have read some sites stating that aquarium salt can be used to negate the effects that nitrites have. You may want to look into that option

Or if you have any other options for water. Such as bottled or from your lfs you may want to switch to that till you get through your cycle

My nitrate has always been around 5 so I am assuming that is from the tap maybe?

 

[AngryRainbow]

My nitrate has always been around 5 so I am assuming that is from the tap maybe?

I would test your tap to be sure. How long have you been stuck on this nitrite spike?

 

[Countrypimp1981]

Several days, 4 or 5 maybe

I would test your tap to be sure. How long have you been stuck on this nitrite spike?

Just tested tap water, not yellow or orange, somewhere in between 0 and 5, less than tank. Tank has been consistently 5 for awhile.

 

[Momgoose56]

Several days, 4 or 5 maybe

Keep doing big water changes-do 90% - to 100% with dechlorinated tap water. Not another tank water. The ammonia in your tap is minuscule. A 90% water change with water that has no nitrites will bring the level down by ~90% . With nitrites that high, 50% water changes aren't going to do as much as fast as just replacing all the water at once...

 

[Countrypimp1981]

Another quick question, is prime supposed to smell like a fart, or did I get a bad bottle?

 

[Momgoose56]

Another quick question, is prime supposed to smell like a fart, or did I get a bad bottle?

Yes, if the farts you are referencing smell like rotten eggs lol!! I think it is made with Sulfur Dioxide(?) hence the aroma!
CORRECTION: Wrong Sulfur, it's made with Sodium Thiosulfate

 

[Countrypimp1981]

Yes, if the farts you are referencing smell like rotten eggs lol!! I think it is made with Sulfur Dioxide(?) hence the aroma!
CORRECTION: Wrong Sulfur, it's made with Sodium Thiosulfate

That's good, was wondering if it has gone bad or something lol. Sure is ripe!

So I was able to get nitrite down to somewhere between .25 and .5 doing multiple water changes and then added a cap full of prime just for good measure. I put fish back in tank. Wish me luck!

 

[Fljoe]

Keep doing big water changes-do 90% - to 100% with dechlorinated tap water. Not another tank water. The ammonia in your tap is minuscule. A 90% water change with water that has no nitrites will bring the level down by ~90% . With nitrites that high, 50% water changes aren't going to do as much as fast as just replacing all the water at once...

This is kind of a Reply to all involved including the OP!
I wasn’t on line yesterday and just got caught up.
If the OP has ammonia in his tap water, and that could be contributing to the high nitrite Level. Question is can’t he double the dose of prime with each WC since it’s safe to do so? Correct me if I’m wrong, but will the double dose of prime neutralize the ammonia in the tap water?

 

[Countrypimp1981]

This is kind of a Reply to all involved including the OP!
I wasn’t on line yesterday and just got caught up.
If the OP has ammonia in his tap water, and that could be contributing to the high nitrite Level. Question is can’t he double the dose of prime with each WC since it’s safe to do so? Correct me if I’m wrong, but will the double dose of prime neutralize the ammonia in the tap water?

Ammonia goes down fairly quick but nitrite not going down as of yet.

 

[Fljoe]

Ammonia goes down fairly quick but nitrite not going down as of yet.

The reason for my question was because if your tap water has ammonia, the tank could be crashing because of the ammonia in the tank besides the fishies bio load. Since prime with neutralize ammonia I just figured this may be a resolution. I’m going to step back and let the more experienced members help you. I will keep reading though. I’m hoping your able to get it figured out! Good luck.

 

[Countrypimp1981]

Cycle does good with ammonia now, just hoping the nitrite will catch up soon so I can be done with this cycle and get some more fish

 

[Countrypimp1981]

I still have high nitrite been 3 weeks now! I added an aquaclear 50 to go with my whisper 20 hoping that the biomax would help it along. I installed it a couple days ago. I have been doing 50% water changes every day. I have not done any since I added my aquaclear 2 days ago though. Thought maybe that could have been delaying things. I have been dosing with prime everyday. Wishing this will be over soon. I have 1 zebra danio and 1 dwarf gourami. Both doing well since I started adding prime. But getting impatient because I want to get more Danios so the one I have isn't lonely or stressed...

 

[Fljoe]

I still have high nitrite been 3 weeks now! I added an aquaclear 50 to go with my whisper 20 hoping that the biomax would help it along. I installed it a couple days ago. I have been doing 50% water changes every day. I have not done any since I added my aquaclear 2 days ago though. Thought maybe that could have been delaying things. I have been dosing with prime everyday. Wishing this will be over soon. I have 1 zebra danio and 1 dwarf gourami. Both doing well since I started adding prime. But getting impatient because I want to get more Danios so the one I have isn't lonely or stressed...

Hi! I feel for you. I can’t believe your nitrates are still giving you trouble. Are you testing the water everyday? What are the latest readings? Also do a full test on your tap water again. I’d like to see what your tap it reading now.
Edit... in a 20 gallon tank you have little room when things get out of wack. Do a 90% water change. But I still want to know what your tap water is testing at now.

 

[Countrypimp1981]

Hi! I feel for you. I can’t believe your nitrates are still giving you trouble. Are you testing the water everyday? What are the latest readings? Also do a full test on your tap water again. I’d like to see what your tap it reading now.
Edit... in a 20 gallon tank you have little room when things get out of wack. Do a 90% water change. But I still want to know what your tap water is testing at now.

Alright, so I filled a bucket and added a little prime as if I was doing a water change and here are the results...
Ph 8.2, ammonia .5, nitrite 0, nitrate 5

 

[Fljoe]

Alright, so I filled a bucket and added a little prime as if I was doing a water change and here are the results...
Ph 8.2, ammonia .5, nitrite 0, nitrate 5

Since your running a 20 gallon tank, it probably wouldn’t cost you much to do a 10 gallon or more water change with a different water source. Maybe try bottled water just to see if your tap water is messing up your cycle.

 

[Countrypimp1981]

Since your running a 20 gallon tank, it probably wouldn’t cost you much to do a 10 gallon or more water change with a different water source. Maybe try bottled water just to see if your tap water is messing up your cycle.

What kind of bottled water do you suggest? I don't have a vehicle at the moment so it might be hard to do for me. I was going to try not changing water unless the nitrite goes down. If it keeps building I will probably have to try the bottled water and see what happens.... But even if I add bottled water I would still get nitrite from the fish correct?

 

[Momgoose56]

Alright, so I filled a bucket and added a little prime as if I was doing a water change and here are the results...
Ph 8.2, ammonia .5, nitrite 0, nitrate 5

Do a 90% water change. That would be all but a couple inches of water above your substrate. Better yet, take the fish out, put them in a bucket of tank water for the few minutes it takes you to finish draining the tank clear down to the bottom (100% change). Doing 50% water changes with nitrites that high is just spitting in the ocean. Get the polluted water out of there and replace it with nitrite free water. Then KEEP doing whatever size/frequency water changes you need to to keep it under 1ppm. Be sure you're doing the nitrite test correctly (right # of drops in the right volume of tank water). With nitrites that high for 3 weeks, your fish should be dead or at minimum, extremely sick, unless the Prime is even more effective at neutralizing them than even the Prime developers are aware!

 

[Countrypimp1981]

So here is another question, even if I have .5 ammonia from the tap it is converted fairly quickly to nitrite, shouldn't the nitrite to nitrate bacteria catch up anyways? I see other posts about people doing fishless cycles adding 1ppm ammonia daily and still getting cycled. Should I just keep doing water changes daily or is it just going to be a never ending cycle? Anyone else have this issue? How long did it take for them? Should I maybe get some stability? I added two bottles of safestart at the beginning. Ammonia doing great just stuck on nitrite.

 

[Momgoose56]

So here is another question, even if I have .5 ammonia from the tap it is converted fairly quickly to nitrite, shouldn't the nitrite to nitrate bacteria catch up anyways? I see other posts about people doing fishless cycles adding 1ppm ammonia daily and still getting cycled. Should I just keep doing water changes daily or is it just going to be a never ending cycle? Anyone else have this issue? How long did it take for them? Should I maybe get some stability? I added two bottles of safestart at the beginning. Ammonia doing great just stuck on nitrite.

Just do the 90-100% water change. Your tank will ultimately cycle. Nitrites that high can stall your cycle and kill or permanently compromise your fishes health. You might find that after you get rid of all those excess nitrites, that your tank IS cycled. When you let nitrite level exceed the capacity of the nitrobacter to process them, it can never catch up. Do the water change, then if the problem persists you can worry about your tank cycling.