Losing fish - Update another dead today

BENT17

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Im loosing fish!

I got two new amanos and I found one.dead and 4 baby srimps which I cant find anymore. 2 weeks ago I had 15 cardinals and now just 11. My GH 5 KH4 Ph 7 and rest all good.

What can it be as I am completely lost here
 

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Im loosing fish!

I got two new amanos and I found one.dead and 4 baby srimps which I cant find anymore. 2 weeks ago I had 15 cardinals and now just 11. My GH 5 KH4 Ph 7 and rest all good.

What can it be as I am completely lost here
Hi I’m sorry you’re dealing with this.

What are your readings for ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate? People sometimes say they are good, but then upon giving us the parameters, they turn out to not be.
 
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  • #4

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  • #7
Okay parameters look good. How did you acclimate the shrimp? The cardinals could have eaten the baby shrimp. They won’t eat adult shrimp, but pretty much all fish will eat baby shrimp opportunistically.
I left them in the bag for 15 mins then i was adding water every 5 min approx
I found 3 out of my shrimps bdw! but previously I got 6 amanos and 3 died on me
How long has the tank been established?
2 months
 
I left them in the bag for 15 mins then i was adding water every 5 min approx
I found 3 out of my shrimps bdw! but previously I got 6 amanos and 3 died on me

2 months
I always drip acclimate my shrimp at 1 drop a second or 2 drops a second for at least 1 ½ hours as they can be really sensitive upon acclimation and within the first two weeks of transfer to a new tank. I would suggest doing drip acclimation for any shrimp moving forward. You could have gotten some weak cardinals also. It’s not super uncommon to lose a couple schooling fish in the first month or two of adding some to a tank.

Did you quarantine the cardinals? Are they displaying any signs of illness?
 
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  • #9
I always drip acclimate my shrimp at 1 drop a second or 2 drops a second for at least 1 ½ hours as they can be really sensitive upon acclimation and within the first two weeks of transfer to a new tank. I would suggest doing drip acclimation for any shrimp moving forward. You could have gotten some weak cardinals also. It’s not super uncommon to lose a couple schooling fish in the first month or two of adding some to a tank.

Did you quarantine the cardinals? Are they displaying any signs of illness?
Why quarantine? they look perfectly well I just never found the dead ones but they are missing. Maybe the shrimps ate them before I realised.. How do you drip acclimate them? I just got a jug and threw some water into the plastic bags.....
 
Why quarantine? they look perfectly well I just never found the dead ones but they are missing. Maybe the shrimps ate them before I realised.. How do you drip acclimate them? I just got a jug and threw some water into the plastic bags.....
See the drip acclimation section to learn how to drip acclimate. I actually usually drip acclimate all my freshwater critters because it is the least stressful method for them. Acclimating Fish to Your Aquarium

In regards to quarantine—many times fish can look okay but can carry internal parasites or other illnesses that do not manifest immediately. Many people get by without a quarantine tank (“QT”), but the best practice is to have one. I got one recently because after 2 years in the hobby, I’ve had enough of dealing with illnesses being introduced to my main tanks. Cory from Aquarium Co-Op has said that almost every single fish he has ever gotten has come with some type of illness or pathogen. It’s best to quarantine fish for at least 2 weeks, ideally 3 weeks to a month to observe for any signs of illness such as clear/white stringy poop (sign of internal parasites) and treat accordingly.

Check out Fishlore’s section on quarantining for more info:Quarantine Tank Setup for Aquarium Fish.
 
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  • #11
So you think im losing them due to improper acclimation ?
 

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So you think im losing them due to improper acclimation ?
That is probably why you’ve lost the shrimp. The cardinals could have either been sick or just been weak specimens.
 
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  • #13
So yest I found a rasboras dead and today an otto and a cardinal tetra. Parameters are all good so I am perplexed why they are dying.. maybe the wave maker is left on at night? Im lost..
 
So yest I found a rasboras dead and today an otto and a cardinal tetra. Parameters are all good so I am perplexed why they are dying.. maybe the wave maker is left on at night? Im lost..
I would suggest testing your water out of the tap, maybe the parameters out of the tap have changed?
 
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  • #15
I am using RO water. WC was 4 days ago. Ph 6.6 ammonia 0 Nitrite 0 nitrate 0 gh6 kh 4
 
I am using RO water. WC was 4 days ago. Ph 6.6 ammonia 0 Nitrite 0 nitrate 0 gh6 kh 4
oh okay. I’m not experienced with RO. You remineralize it yes?
 
Yep from GH1 to GH7 and KH1 to KH4
What’s the temp? At this point, I’m thinking there’s some type of bacterial infection that is sweeping through the tank :/. I’m sorry, this is quite perplexing.
 
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  • #21
Do you think its that? Had no indication of white patches.. one thing I noticed is that I find them dead once the light goes on so they die between 9pm ane 4pm. Can it be maybe that the wave maker tires them out at night? Or maybe starvation? I give them small pellets not flakes.. this is my tetra..
 

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Do you think its that? Had no indication of white patches.. one thing I noticed is that I find them dead once the light goes on so they die between 9pm ane 4pm. Can it be maybe that the wave maker tires them out at night? Or maybe starvation? I give them small pellets not flakes.. this is my tetra..
I doubt that would kill them. Do you see them eat? Also, when you turn the lights off, see if they are struggling. My bet is on some type of bacterial illness honestly. There are two types of columnaris; one type can kill overnight before you see any symptoms, so what you are saying is consistent with that.
 
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  • #23
When I check on them I see the tetras at the very bottom.of the tank.. normal?
 
When I check on them I see the tetras at the very bottom.of the tank.. normal?
Yup very normal. As long as they aren’t getting thrown around at night the wave maker isn’t causing issues.
 
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  • #25
Nah very quiet tank at night relaxed fish

Took a vid.. maybe wave maker is too strong snd stressing / tiring them?

Streamable Video
The danio is swimming for dear life.. wave maker is 2500l/h in 200l tank

What do you think?
Just got up and another one down..
Closeup.. looks like no evidence showing. I even turned off the wave maker
 

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Looking at the fish and the number of losses, it is becoming most likely that when you added the last set of livestock you accidently introduced some sort of health issue and that is now working its way through the entire stock.

Can you please do the template (copy/paste/fill) onto this thread, redo your water tests and can you confirm that your aquarium was fully cycled before stocking as this seems like its the result of a perfect storm.....not fully cycled aquarium, introduction of stock with health issues and questionable water quality

Aquatic Emergency Template | Freshwater Fish Disease and Fish Health Forum | 376562
 
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  • #27
Hi all, I am finding dead fish in the morning. No evidence on the fish.. please find questions answered here

Tank
What is the water volume of the tank? 200L

How long has the tank been running? 2.5 months

Does it have a filter? Yes Sicce Whale 350

Does it have a heater? Yes 300W

What is the water temperature? 24c

What is the entire stocking of this tank? Cardinal Tetras, Rasboras, Galaxy Tetras, amano shrimps, 6 neocaridina shrimps 4 nirite snaild

Maintenance
How often do you change the water?
How much of the water do you change?
What do you use to treat your water?
Do you vacuum the substrate or just the water?

50L every week. RO water and add minerals to get to Gh7 Kh4. Add iron suppliment with WC


*Parameters - Very Important
Did you cycle your tank before adding fish?
Yes

What do you use to test the water?
Api master kit

What are your parameters? We need to know the exact numbers, not just “fine” or “safe”.
Ammonia: 0ppm
Nitrite:0ppm
Nitrate:0ppm
pH: 6.6

Feeding
How often do you feed your fish?
Once daily

How much do you feed your fish?
Pinch

What brand of food do you feed your fish?
Haquoss Base Minigram

Do you feed frozen or freeze-dried foods?
No

Illness & Symptoms
How long have you had this fish?
1month

How long ago did you first notice these symptoms? 4 days ago

In a few words, can you explain the symptoms?
Finding fish dead in the morning

Have you started any treatment for the illness?
No

Was your fish physically ill or injured upon purchase?
No

How has its behavior and appearance changed, if at all?
No change

Explain your emergency situation in detail. (Please give a clear explanation of what is going on, include details from the beginning of the illness leading up to now)

Lights go off at 930pm. Fish all look ok. I wake up in the morning and find one or two dead fish. Video of them during light look healthy.
Photos:
 

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Why are you using RO exactly?

Just curious cos your nitrates are zero and that is a bad sign of water quality issues. RO can remove the good bits, not just the bad from well water or poor quality tap water.

Can you test your tap water too please.
 
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  • #29
I had tested tap water and parameters were over the moon that is why I went for RO instead
 
I had tested tap water and parameters were over the moon that is why I went for RO instead

TBH.....and this is just my own opinion which will probably differ from others here....

RO systems are more frequently used on saltwater aquariums where water quality is alot harder to keep within healthy limits. Now my tap water is atrocious, I hate it and thus refuse to allow my fish to swim in something that I would not drink. All of my aquariums use bottled water from a single supplier, I buy packs of 24 x 500ml for £3 a pack. The quality of the water, the mineral make up, the pH etc always spot on cos the water comes from the same source.

I have Cardinals, Harlequins, Danio's, Rams, Neon's and Cories in my aquariums, all using normal human consumption type bottled water....not the expensive brands....and the fish are thriving, growing quickly and a 50% water change with bottled water every week without any losses.

If the recent additions have not caused an illness outbreak, then my personal suspicion goes on that RO system and the lack of nitrates cos you need nitrates in a freshwater aquarium
 
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  • #31
Is there something I can test for like imputities or plastics in the water? The RO water drips in a plastic box, maybe there is something "poisioning" the water before it gets to the aquarium? my nitrates have always been 0ppm but I thought that was a good thing since its a planted tank and shows a healthy tank?
Parameters:

Kh 4
Gh 7
 

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Is there something I can test for like imputities or plastics in the water? The RO water drips in a plastic box, maybe there is something "poisioning" the water before it gets to the aquarium? my nitrates have always been 0ppm but I thought that was a good thing since its a planted tank and shows a healthy tank?

I assume that you are mixing the RO water with dechlorinated tap water since RO on its own is potentially fatal due to uncontrolled pH swings and the stripping of all the good stuff as well as the bad

It would be a contradiction to say that it is a healthy aquarium when fish are suffering sudden death overnight

What is actually wrong with your tap water exactly, can you run a test on it cos if its high nitrate, that can be sorted easily just by using a specific type of filter pad....same for any abnormalities, they can usually be handled by specific filter media

Please would you run a full test on your tap water, I don't think the plastic tub will be an issue...but that RO use might be, it could be overdoing the purification
 
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  • #33
No its pure RO water and then I add minerals to get the KH and GH up.. Here are my tap results..
 

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Looking at the results you have high pH and nitrate in the tap water...both can be handled by filter media or buffer....but what is concerning me is the use of RO by itself.

It can be used alone but its a very fine line tween healthy and fatal and potentially difficult to get that fine line.

I am scratching my head here cos the deaths appear to be overnight which would indicate either in increase of impurity or a decrease of essential minerals etc...but at the same time your nitrates still shouldn't be zero

My chief suspect is the RO, something in the remineralisation is going off enough to cause a sudden swing that is enough to kill fish very quickly and especially overnight.

I am wondering if it is worth trying a mix of RO and treated tap water on a couple of water changes to see if things level out.....its a risky move but at the same time, it might be a risk worth taking....but that is your choice to make, not mine

This sort of issue is a process of elimination and can take a while to find the root cause.
 
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  • #35
Could it be a bacterial infection and nothing linked to the water?
 
Could it be a bacterial infection and nothing linked to the water?

Infections potentially is possible but the time tween introducing the latest fish and the problems seems a bit long....assuming you had no deaths or signs of trouble before the latest additions

OK......the pH.....are you able to test the aquarium pH at 8 hour intervals cos I am wondering if its swinging, especially when the fish are calmer and more static at night so the water would not be mixing and moving as much as in the daytime. Its a hunch but if the pH is unstable and is spiking or dropping, that would be fatal.

I know and understand how frustrating this all is and incredibly disheartening when fish are lost too but it really is a process of elimination. The tape water alone is a higher pH and Nitrate level to what would be universally "good" for an aquarium......and the RO pH is alot better and closer to what would be classed as the good average, but it can swing, spike and drop without warning and that is almost always fatal cos livestock need stable pH to survive and nitrates should be there too.
 
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  • #37
The only difference is that the Light and CO2 would be on and at night it will be off. CO2 goes on at 14:00 and lights go on at 16:00 and Co2 goes off at 21:00 and lights go off at 21:30.

there is a drop from 7.0-7.2 to 6.6 when CO2 is off
 
The only difference is that the Light and CO2 would be on and at night it will be off. CO2 goes on at 14:00 and lights go on at 16:00 and Co2 goes off at 21:00 and lights go off at 21:30.

there is a drop from 7.0-7.2 to 6.6 when CO2 is off

A pH swing of 0.3 in either direction can cause health issues and can be potentially fatal

A rise in pH can change the water quality, especially toxicity such as ammonia spiking, if the rise is quite sudden or happens in a short space of time. Some fish types are more tolerant than others of pH swings but most can have some effect from it, not always fatally but it can happen.

In my experience most farm bred fish are very adaptable but they really must have stable pH 24/7 as it can make them quite unwell, prone to other infections or even lead to a sudden death if the pH is even slightly unstable.
This might be a useful read as well....

Signs Of Too Much CO2 In Your Aquarium

It offers advice on your CO2 timings and amounts along with all the water parameter changes it causes and livestock symptoms of trouble too

(RO, CO2 is a minefield where problems can occur very very easily even when you are being really careful and with drastic results)
 
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  • #39
It looks like maybe this could possibly be the issue and not bacterial issue as they would die during the day also.
 
Why are you using RO exactly?

Just curious cos your nitrates are zero and that is a bad sign of water quality issues. RO can remove the good bits, not just the bad from well water or poor quality tap water.

Can you test your tap water too please.
In a heavily planted tank 0 nitrates is pretty normal
 
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  • #41
In a heavily planted tank 0 nitrates is pretty normal
Starting to think that there is nothing wrong with the water and maybe its got to do with the PH drop at night due to CO2 stopping at night..
 

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There seems to be a real link tween the RO, CO2, pH and KH with the symptoms being seen in the fish...loss of conciousness often leads to sudden death.

I feel that might be the avenue to explore. The wblink gives you a chart with the right settings etc, and I can only think if one is slightly off it will cause mayhem very quickly and if a fish has an underlying weakness, it will be affected the most and maybe not recover.
Starting to think that there is nothing wrong with the water and maybe its got to do with the PH drop at night due to CO2 stopping at night..

The pH is changing in both directions according to when your CO2 is on and off.....the change in pH could well be enough to tip a fish off the edge. Have a good read of that weblink as it might help get to the root cause of your problems

I hope that it does anyway cos losing fish without a visible cause is devastating and so much harder to understand and ultimately prevent.
 
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  • #43
Correct me if I am wrong but I though that when CO2 goes on and off shouldn't PH fluctuate ?
 
Have you tried leaving the CO2 off for a few days? Or using more/different brand of minerals? Your KH is at the low end and that is the one that buffers pH.
 
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  • #47
So tested ph so here it goes

5pm: 6.6
9pm: 6.6
12am: 7.0
7am 7.2

TDS throughout was180
And no dead fish!
 
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  • #49
Has anyone had this issue before? Worried more will follow..
Just saw that my other Rasboras have their side whiter than the other side.. hoping you can see it in the photos.. could it be fungus?
 

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