How To Read The API pH Test

JustAFishServant

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Hey all. I've been using the API Freshwater Master Test Kits for over 8 years, but I just now realized I might've been reading it wrong all along. I've been holding the tubes about 1/2" in front on the color guide instead of directly touching it. See here:

I do it like this; 1/2" in front:
1669304867496713968151088647808.jpg
And this is directly in front:16693046233832286627457605197297.jpg
Depending on lighting, this looks like it says 6.4 pH when 1/2" in front of the color guide. But when vial touches the sheet, it appears to say 6.

Thanks all :)
 

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I’d say 6 in both ! Those pesky tubes cause lots of folk trouble. I think anything above a light orange on the nitrate test is hard to read too..

I could be wrong but don’t they recommend to hold it a little away from the card ?
 

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  • #3
I’d say 6 in both ! Those pesky tubes cause lots of folk trouble. I think anything above a light orange on the nitrate test is hard to read too..

I could be wrong but don’t they recommend to hold it a little away from the card ?
I've been using it for awhile and didn't even think about if I was holding it too close/far away! I can easily read the colors (I have a "good eye") so it's never caused me any trouble.

My question is: how far should the vials be from the color chart?
 
I've been using it for awhile and didn't even think about if I was holding it too close/far away! I can easily read the colors (I have a "good eye") so it's never caused me any trouble.

My question is: how far should the vials be from the color chart?
Anywhere but on top of the colors.....lol I think away or on the white is the same.
 
There’s soooo many threads about this issue ! Didn’t api actually answer though ?

I think for anyone that’s got some experience and knows their water, a ball park between 2 options is ok, eg 6.2 or 6.4 pH. But for someone cycling a tank and needing exact results it can be tricky.

I’d rather use drip tests over dip tests but that’s just my preference.
 
Ok sorry stargirl I’m a full believer of directly over the chart8F64D97E-B259-40C2-8A04-12A6D9C10917.jpegOver the chart seems to be the only true reading. Next to it you’re always guessing! No? Above it you’ve got the color in the vial and the color on the chart. So the last color you can’t see through has to be the ph . 0 on this one. Much worse with nitrate what most would guess is 80-160ppm. Is really 20ppmB152A526-4916-4BCC-9CE1-838F92251EC2.jpegHow do I know I’m right? It’s a discus tank. Anything over 20 ppm would be detrimental to the fish.
 

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Ok sorry stargirl I’m a full believer of directly over the chartView attachment 866594Over the chart seems to be the only true reading. Next to it you’re always guessing! No? Above it you’ve got the color in the vial and the color on the chart. So the last color you can’t see through has to be the ph . 0 on this one. Much worse with nitrate what most would guess is 80-160ppm. Is really 20ppmView attachment 866595How do I know I’m right? It’s a discus tank. Anything over 20 ppm would be detrimental to the fish.
That is super red. You have invincible Discus then. I will fight you to the grave......lol :p;)
 
Please no fighting!! And I finished the watcher☹️. But in reality your way really is just guessing. Next thing with that test is their color charts can be different from test box to box. Its like they’re running out of ink but keep making them.
 
View attachment 866595How do I know I’m right? It’s a discus tank. Anything over 20 ppm would be detrimental to the fish.
this is exactly what I mentioned before . Anything over an orange colour is hard ( for me anyway ) to read !?
but I do see that people have different colour charts .. maybe it’s lighting and phone cameras . Unless you’re in person and put two together how would you ever possibly compare them ? I could take two photos of the same chart or test in different lighting and it would be different looking.

I know we are talking about in person checking, but for a novice testing and seeing red nitrates they may panic ( hopefully they’d do a wc which is never a bad idea other than specialist species ) but it’s not a clear cut test above orange wether it’s on the card or not.
And that’s before you factor in a low pH for the ammonia , or tap water ..
 
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  • #10
Anywhere but on top of the colors.....lol I think away or on the white is the same.
To me, when I held it 1/2" away from the chart, it appeared as 6.4 (the camera didn't capture it) but right in front of it, it read 6. Odd huh? Wonder why after 11 years in the hobby I never questioned it :p
I think for anyone that’s got some experience and knows their water, a ball park between 2 options is ok, eg 6.2 or 6.4 pH. But for someone cycling a tank and needing exact results it can be tricky.
Absolutely. I've been living with (and using) the same water for 9 years. It's changed slightly with construction and such (only a .25ppm nitrite has been detected...ever,) but since I know my water so well; 6.8 from the tap and typically 6.4 in the tanks; I don't even measure pH, ammonia/ammonium or nitrite in cycled tanks, or nitrate in heavily-planted ripariums. Goodness knows I save a lot of money.
I’d rather use drip tests over dip tests but that’s just my preference.
I agree. Dips are typically unreliable, but every test in the market is, even drip tests like API. They're all inaccurate. The best thing one can do is contact their local water plant for exact parameters, but I don't know which water plant company is used for my neighborhood. So I just test the params once in a blue moon if I'm curious, something's off, or I'm cycling yet another tank (MTS struck me 10 years ago.)
 
Ok I’ve got 3 kits. One from 03 no expiration date :eek: :eek: . One from 2011. Went bad in 13:eek:. One from 17 goes bad in 23. All 3 of the charts are different colors. All 3 test the same:(. Must say after the last kit I. Rarely ever test anything. It’s a shame this is the most recommended kit and really the only affordable one.
 

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Goes to show doesn’t it ! Sometimes the kit goes bad , I don’t doubt that , sometimes it’s user errors , I don’t doubt that either ! Sometimes you just gain enough knowledge to be able to eyeball when somethings off and know how to deal with it.

I do rate test kits though. They are helpful, for the newer members to the hobby they can be invaluable.
 
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  • #13
Goes to show doesn’t it ! Sometimes the kit goes bad , I don’t doubt that , sometimes it’s user errors , I don’t doubt that either ! Sometimes you just gain enough knowledge to be able to eyeball when somethings off and know how to deal with it.

I do rate test kits though. They are helpful, for the newer members to the hobby they can be invaluable.
I agree with that. I'd like to have both dip (strips) and drip (API) tests on my hands. Have you ever used dip tests and if so, which ones are best? I'd like accurate, affordable options with ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate. I can test the reliability among tests to see which ones have the most consistent results. I don't need chlorine/chloramine, pH, KH or GH, and I can't spend much (preferably less than $20-$30 USD at a time.)

I'm probably the only fool here that actually doesn't mind the API nitrate test. I'm perfectly alright with it, but since it's a bit time-consuming, I don't always do it. A strip test with nitrate would fix that issue of laziness and/or forgetfulness :)
 
The color cards do fade.
You can download pics in the computer that never fade...
I have used the method 86 advocates since he introduced it to me.
I also do not test much if at all.
 

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Hey all. I've been using the API Freshwater Master Test Kits for over 8 years, but I just now realized I might've been reading it wrong all along. I've been holding the tubes about 1/2" in front on the color guide instead of directly touching it. See here:

I do it like this; 1/2" in front:
View attachment 866577
And this is directly in front:View attachment 866576
Depending on lighting, this looks like it says 6.4 pH when 1/2" in front of the color guide. But when vial touches the sheet, it appears to say 6.

Thanks all :)

8 years of reading it wrong, but your tanks are doing fine, right? ;)
 
I agree with that. I'd like to have both dip (strips) and drip (API) tests on my hands. Have you ever used dip tests and if so, which ones are best? I'd like accurate, affordable options with ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate. I can test the reliability among tests to see which ones have the most consistent results
I’ve not used a dip test in years so couldn’t recommend you a brand. I think we are on a different continent too so different brands are probably available for you :) I agree with the ease and time of dip tests though. Quick and easy !
 
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  • #17
You can download pics in the computer that never fade...
I do that too :)
8 years of reading it wrong, but your tanks are doing fine, right? ;)
Yep! Right now I have 16 tanks, all of which are thriving, even though they're just for rescues
I’ve not used a dip test in years so couldn’t recommend you a brand. I think we are on a different continent too so different brands are probably available for you :) I agree with the ease and time of dip tests though. Quick and easy !
Thanks!
 
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