Didn’t cycle tank

[KribensisLover1]

Would stresszyme work to take milky color away? I am testing water too (waiting on kit from amazon! Thank you guys for that!)
Am not getting clarifier as was told to check water. But I have been told that stresszyme can help fish as well as clearing water.

 

[Morpheus1967]

I don't see a lot of milkiness there, but I will take your word for it. How long has the tank been set up? It could be a bacterial bloom. And I am assuming you are doing fish in cycle? If that's the case, until your test kit arrives, I would be changing 25-50% of the water daily. Unless you are treating your tank with Prime, then you could go every other day. Once you get your test kit, and we know the parameters, more specific advice can be given.

 

[KribensisLover1]

Attached a new pic from today! I did nothing via cycle. My five gallon started leaking so I put my two common goldfish and two mystery snails In new tank with water conditioner (stress coat) and beneficial bacteria liquids. It’s ten days old about. I added two dojo’s a week in. I have done one 40% water change two days ago. The fish seemed all stressed so I wasn’t sure but it was needed. I DID add a sand box in and so that didn’t help water.

 

[Morpheus1967]

With two commons and an uncycled tank I would definitely be doing daily changes, but I would check the bottle/directions of whatever "beneficial bacteria liquids" you poured in there. It's just really difficult to give advice without know the parameters. When is your test kit supposed to be here? And what do you mean by you added a sand box?

 

[KribensisLover1]

It is coming tomorrow. I also got the stresszyme if not for now then for later date (it was very inexpensive on amazon) but I’ll wait if you say to! The sand areas are just for the loaches to burrow in or sit on. I added a picture of both things I used both when getting water ready initially and for water change the other day. I did use a bunch the other day bc my bucket wasn’t large enough so I had to add in four diff times so did four diff doses (each dose was for the bucket amount not for the entire amount so it equaled the entire amount but was likely a little extra). I took pics of both sand areas and also of my two loaches bc they’re so darn cute.

Also

With two commons and an uncycled tank I would definitely be doing daily changes, but I would check the bottle/directions of whatever "beneficial bacteria liquids" you poured in there. It's just really difficult to give advice without know the parameters. When is your test kit supposed to be here? And what do you mean by you added a sand box?

also my aqua clear filter is running at the lowest bc my fish don’t appreciate the stronger current. I have gotten wonderful advice on using diff bio filters etc that I will work on today.


Angry-rainbow told me not to add extra chemicals when I asked about clarifiers which I totally agree with. Also I can test the water first based on what you’ve said. I would only use stresszyme if it would help the fish.

 

[Morpheus1967]

Ah ok. Now I see! The cloudiness could be from the sand. Did you rinse it really well before you put it in the tank?

With your kit coming tomorrow, I would maybe do a 25% change today, regardless of what the bottle says. Then test your parameters when you get your kit and let us know what your results are.

Is that a 20 gallon tank? What Aqua Clear filter do you have? I would definitely not have it on the lowest setting, unless it's a 70 or something lol.

 

[SeanyBaggs123]

What size tank is that?

 

[KribensisLover1]

Ah ok. Now I see! The cloudiness could be from the sand. Did you rinse it really well before you put it in the tank?

With your kit coming tomorrow, I would maybe do a 25% change today, regardless of what the bottle says. Then test your parameters when you get your kit and let us know what your results are.

Is that a 20 gallon tank? What Aqua Clear filter do you have? I would definitely not have it on the lowest setting, unless it's a 70 or something lol.

It’s a thirty aquaclear in a twenty long. . I can do that! I will absolutely do that! And I did wash the sand prior. Then I used a very deep dish to put it in the tank. It was too deep so I then switched it to a smaller dish BUT I didn’t use tap water again bc I thought that was extra bad:/ but I do put it down without much of a cover. You can see where the water being put back in after water change got a lot of gravel onto the sand—meaning that a lot of sand got into the gravel. Lol.

What size tank is that?

It’s a twenty long. I have had the fish for a month and already upgraded from a 5 (the fish were rescued from somebody trying to FLUSH them after a fair). I was total newbie (well I AM a total newbie) and so am upgrading as I go. I just realized that getting the other guys in there means I need a lid each time which drives up the price a ton. But I am upgrading quite quickly as I know they need larger!!

 

[SeanyBaggs123]

Well as long as you know that this should by no means be a permanent home for these 4 fish, I would follow Morpheus1967 advice.

 

[Morpheus1967]

Another thing to keep in mind is all the fish you have in that aquarium are going to get big. Like bigger than you think. Both the goldfish and the loach can get around 10" long. You are doing a great job, just realize you will eventually need a much larger tank for these guys.

 

[KribensisLover1]

Well as long as you know that this should by no means be a permanent home for these 4 fish, I would follow Morpheus1967 advice.

One

Another thing to keep in mind is all the fish you have in that aquarium are going to get big. Like bigger than you think. Both the goldfish and the loach can get around 10" long. You are doing a great job, just realize you will eventually need a much larger tank for these guys.

I actually might cry bc Morpheus 1967 and you are so kind. I don’t know if I have told you guys (I ask so many questions) but you guys are So awesome helping me now and helping me realize where to go as I move forward. Rather than chastise me for not having the set up I need right now you answer my questions. The reason that’s so amazing is I don’t KNOW what I’m doing so telling me I’m wrong isn’t helpful bc I don’t know what to do to be CORRECT! You are saving a few lives here, which is no small thinf!!!!! Also I might have asked this before so please forgive me. But I was told I need at least 48” which is great. I was thinking maybe a 33 long but was told they do need the height and stuff. All totally understandable. I would LOVE though to have extra width. Am I correct that the only way to have 48” and over 12” wide is to get a 75? I ask bc a 33 long and 40 long and 45 long have the length so I’m hoping there’s something between a 55 and a 75 that will give me height length and width. 12” seems so narrow!! But what do I know. My mom said the aquarium designers know what they’re doing so 12” must be pretty right.

 

[Morpheus1967]

A typical 55 gallon tank is 48" long by 12" deep by 21" tall.
A typical 75 gallon tank is 48" long by 18" deep by 21" tall

So with a 75 gallon, you gain 6" of depth (front to back on the tank).

 

[SeanyBaggs123]

One
I actually might cry bc Morpheus 1967 and you are so kind. I don’t know if I have told you guys (I ask so many questions) but you guys are So awesome helping me now and helping me realize where to go as I move forward. Rather than chastise me for not having the set up I need right now you answer my questions. The reason that’s so amazing is I don’t KNOW what I’m doing so telling me I’m wrong isn’t helpful bc I don’t know what to do to be CORRECT! You are saving a few lives here, which is no small thinf!!!!! Also I might have asked this before so please forgive me. But I was told I need at least 48” which is great. I was thinking maybe a 33 long but was told they do need the height and stuff. All totally understandable. I would LOVE though to have extra width. Am I correct that the only way to have 48” and over 12” wide is to get a 75? I ask bc a 33 long and 40 long and 45 long have the length so I’m hoping there’s something between a 55 and a 75 that will give me height length and width. 12” seems so narrow!! But what do I know. My mom said the aquarium designers know what they’re doing so 12” must be pretty right.

I haven't been much help so far, but you're welcome.

I think you should take some time to read this: Aquarium Nitrogen Cycle
That article will be your best friend until you fully understand it's principles.
Also, once you understand the nitrogen cycle I would stop using products like stress zyme, stress coat, and ph buffer. If anything they will just skew your test results or mask problems with your fish.

Now that that's out of the way I'm going to suggest or at least lay out an option that you may not like: it's OKAY to turn fish over to or return fish to a fish store if you feel you got in over your head or made uneducated choices in fish. That's a big can of worms, and I'm sure an unpopular opinion, but it beats letting them die in an undersized aquarium if it comes to that.

Finally, a 75 gallon fish tank would be great for just those two goldfish alone. Not all four fish that you have. If a 75 is all you can afford I would start thinking about who you're going to rehome (whether to another hobbyist or the pet store). I wouldn't put that much faith in the aquarium manufacturer's either. They make what they make solely to make money. If you have questions, don't hesitate to ask here.

Hope that helps.

 

[KribensisLover1]

I haven't been much help so far, but you're welcome.

I think you should take some time to read this: Aquarium Nitrogen Cycle
That article will be your best friend until you fully understand it's principles.
Also, once you understand the nitrogen cycle I would stop using products like stress zyme, stress coat, and ph buffer. If anything they will just skew your test results or mask problems with your fish.

Now that that's out of the way I'm going to suggest or at least lay out an option that you may not like: it's OKAY to turn fish over to or return fish to a fish store if you feel you got in over your head or made uneducated choices in fish. That's a big can of worms, and I'm sure an unpopular opinion, but it beats letting them die in an undersized aquarium if it comes to that.

Finally, a 75 gallon fish tank would be great for just those two goldfish alone. Not all four fish that you have. If a 75 is all you can afford I would start thinking about who you're going to rehome (whether to another hobbyist or the pet store). I wouldn't put that much faith in the aquarium manufacturer's either. They make what they make solely to make money. If you have questions, don't hesitate to ask here.

Hope that helps.

Well I just mean everybody on here in general. And now you too!! But what WOULD be a good sized tank. That’s what I mean—I truly have no clue!! And say it ain’t so! I do have a friend with a pond so that’s an option (would prefer it to the pet store but maybe that isn’t correct).

 

[Morpheus1967]

Trust me. If you get a 75, you will want a 90. Then when you get the 90, you will want a 125. Happens to all of us!!

 

[KribensisLover1]

Trust me. If you get a 75, you will want a 90. Then when you get the 90, you will want a 125. Happens to all of us!!

HAHAHHAHAHA I know! I have had mine for A WEEK! And I added the nitrogen cycle info to my home screen and it’ll be awesome tomorrow when I begin testing! And now. Also: is stresszyme good for stressed fish? Like if I’m changing water a lot etc. or if NOT what is good? Or is it all chemicals and forget it. I don’t mean today or tomorrow. I need a baseline for testing the water (and I only know that thanks to you!) but in general do you add anything for stress, and if so, what? Or just leave them alone! Besides changing the water!

I haven't been much help so far, but you're welcome.

I think you should take some time to read this: Aquarium Nitrogen Cycle
That article will be your best friend until you fully understand it's principles.
Also, once you understand the nitrogen cycle I would stop using products like stress zyme, stress coat, and ph buffer. If anything they will just skew your test results or mask problems with your fish.

Now that that's out of the way I'm going to suggest or at least lay out an option that you may not like: it's OKAY to turn fish over to or return fish to a fish store if you feel you got in over your head or made uneducated choices in fish. That's a big can of worms, and I'm sure an unpopular opinion, but it beats letting them die in an undersized aquarium if it comes to that.

Finally, a 75 gallon fish tank would be great for just those two goldfish alone. Not all four fish that you have. If a 75 is all you can afford I would start thinking about who you're going to rehome (whether to another hobbyist or the pet store). I wouldn't put that much faith in the aquarium manufacturer's either. They make what they make solely to make money. If you have questions, don't hesitate to ask here.

Hope that helps.

I love these guys so much I’m about to build my own pond. I can’t imagine parting with them but I will say whatever is best for them is my number one priority. A healthy fish is a happy fish. To be honest my dojo’s are my current favorites. ESP right now bc it’s storming. I named them Cyclone and Tempest.

 

[Morpheus1967]

I use exactly one chemical in my tanks. And that is Seachem Prime. It dechlorinates the water, and it actually helps detoxify small parts of ammonia and nitrite, which you will learn about when you read about the nitrogen cycle. I use it at every water change. Now that's not saying there aren't other beneficial things you can add, I'm just saying that is all I use.

 

[KribensisLover1]

I use exactly one chemical in my tanks. And that is Seachem Prime. It dechlorinates the water, and it actually helps detoxify small parts of ammonia and nitrite, which you will learn about when you read about the nitrogen cycle. I use it at every water change. Now that's not saying there aren't other beneficial things you can add, I'm just saying that is all I use.

It sounds like you have goldfish? Is that right? It doesn’t matter I am just asking bc I bet your aquarium is awesome!!

 

[Momgoose56]

I'm jumping in here kind of late. You've already gotten excellent information. I just thought I'd add some info to file in your 'need to know' files. First, Stress Zyme. That product contains a bacteria and enzymes that only serve the purpose of breaking large solid waste so nitrifying bacteria can process it. The nitrifying bacteria (nitrosomonas, nitrospira/nitrobacter) will oxidize (break down) ammonia and nitrites into nitrates. You will be testing these three levels tomorrow with your test kit. Ammonia and nitrites are toxic to fish, even at low levels. Nitrates can be toxic at high levels but you can easily control nitrates with weekly water changes. While your tank is producing ammonia and nitrites and growing the bacteria to handle them, the only thing you really need to be adding is a dechlorinator. Seachem Prime dechlorinates water plus it will change ammonia and nitrites to a molecular form that makes them harmless to your fish. If you find that you have measurable levels of ammonia and nitrites in your tank tomorrow when you test it, ypu might consider using Prime as your dechlorinator and to protect the fish in your tank.
The main reason keeping gold fish and tropical fish together doesn't usually work is because goldfish are coldwater fish, don't require a heater in their tank, and prefer much colder temps than tropical fish (50°-70°F).

 

[Morpheus1967]

Nope, no goldfish. I have a 20 gallon that houses a single male betta, and I have a 125 gallon community tank that houses a bunch of different species.

And just stick around here for awhile, and you will be able to help the next person who needs it. That's what is great about this site.

Oh, and Momgoose56 is one of the people who helped me out!

 

[KribensisLover1]

I'm jumping in here kind of late. You've already gotten excellent information. I just thought I'd add some info to file in your 'need to know' files. First, Stress Zyme. That product contains a bacteria and enzymes that only serve the purpose of breaking large solid waste so nitrifying bacteria can process it. The nitrifying bacteria (nitrosomonas, nitrospira/nitrobacter) will oxidize (break down) ammonia and nitrites into nitrates. You will be testing these three levels tomorrow with your test kit. Ammonia and nitrites are toxic to fish, even at low levels. Nitrates can be toxic at high levels but you can easily control nitrates with weekly water changes. While your tank is producing ammonia and nitrites and growing the bacteria to handle them, the only thing you really need to be adding is a dechlorinator. Seachem Prime dechlorinates water plus it will change ammonia and nitrites to a molecular form that makes them harmless to your fish. If you find that you have measurable levels of ammonia and nitrites in your tank tomorrow when you test it, ypu might consider using Prime as your dechlorinator and to protect the fish in your tank.
The main reason keeping gold fish and tropical fish together doesn't usually work is because goldfish are coldwater fish, don't require a heater in their tank, and prefer much colder temps than tropical fish (50°-70°F).

Thank You!!!!! So I’m sorry to be confused again but is StressZyme something I would ever use but just not now as I WANT the bacteria to grow that handles the ammonia and nitrates? Or is it something I would never use. Just wondering if I should return it. And okay seachem dechlorinator. Awesome!! Thank you . In addition, is there anything I can do to make the water more clear? It didn’t get clearer after the water change so should I just wait as it could be a bacteria bloom? Thank you AGAIN!!!!!

 

[Momgoose56]

Thank You!!!!! So I’m sorry to be confused again but is StressZyme something I would ever use but just not now as I WANT the bacteria to grow that handles the ammonia and nitrates? Or is it something I would never use. Just wondering if I should return it. And okay seachem dechlorinator. Awesome!! Thank you . In addition, is there anything I can do to make the water more clear? It didn’t get clearer after the water change so should I just wait as it could be a bacteria bloom? Thank you AGAIN!!!!!

No, you can use it. (but personally, if you can return it, I'd suggest doing that). Keep the Top Fin bacteria starter though. Depending on your test results, you may want to use that. Just saying you don't need the Stress Zyme while you're cycling your tank (or ever IMO) plus adding multiple chemicals and biological agents (enzymes, bacteria, buffers, dechlorinators) while cycling could make test results questionable in some circumstances. Stress Zyme doesn't add the kind of bacteria that 'eat' ammonia or nitrites. It only has bacteria in it that breaks the poop apart and turns it into ammonia.

 

[KribensisLover1]

No, you can use it. (but personally, if you can return it, I'd suggest doing that). Keep the Top Fin bacteria starter though. Depending on your test results, you may want to use that. Just saying you don't need the Stress Zyme while you're cycling your tank (or ever IMO) plus adding multiple chemicals and biological agents (enzymes, bacteria, buffers, dechlorinators) while cycling could make test results questionable in some circumstances. Stress Zyme doesn't add the kind of bacteria that 'eat' ammonia or nitrites. It only has bacteria in it that breaks the poop apart and turns it into ammonia.

Oh! Okay well this is awesome to know! Yeaaaa and TY! Look how The colors have changed. Is this okay?

1.) Sept. 3 (living in Tupperware for THREE days waiting for aquarium. Now I know why they need a filter lol)

2.) five gallon Sep 12

3.) twenty long today

Is that color change normal?
The pics might load in opposite order but I bet you can see which is what.

 

[Elkwatcher]

Is your driftwood real or fake, it could also cause a bit of opaqueness if it is leaching any tannins.

 

[KribensisLover1]

Is your driftwood real or fake, it could also cause a bit of opaqueness if it is leaching any tannins.

It’s real but I’ve had sinve the WAY beginning and this was my five gallon water clarity. I’m sure it’s the sand and or a bacteria bloom

 

[Momgoose56]

Oh! Okay well this is awesome to know! Yeaaaa and TY! Look how The colors have changed. Is this okay?

1.) Sept. 3 (living in Tupperware for THREE days waiting for aquarium. Now I know why they need a filter lol)

2.) five gallon Sep 12

3.) twenty long today

Is that color change normal?
The pics might load in opposite order but I bet you can see which is what.

Is the top picture the most recent? Fish will become pale when stressed. They look much better in the picture with the wood and black gravel.

 

[KribensisLover1]

Is the top picture the most recent? Fish will become pale when stressed. They look much better in the picture with the wood and black gravel.

YES THAT IS NEW!!!!! You made my day! So the cloudy nasty one is beginning. The five gallon a month ago. The black gravel ten min ago!

 

[KribensisLover1]

Is the top picture the most recent? Fish will become pale when stressed. They look much better in the picture with the wood and black gravel.

I also just posted this under great news as I heard the black was ammonia burns. From the carnival people:/

 

[Momgoose56]

I also just posted this under great news as I heard the black was ammonia burns. From the carnival people:/

Haaahaha! Ammonia doesn't 'burn' fish like that, only a campfire under a fresh trout will do that...hahaha!

 

[KribensisLover1]

Haaahaha! Ammonia doesn't 'burn' fish like that, only a campfire under a fresh trout will do that...hahaha!

Lolol I swear somebody told me that I have ZERO clue what it was before or now!!

 

[Momgoose56]

Haaahaha! Ammonia doesn't 'burn' fish like that, only a campfire under a fresh trout will do that...hahaha!

Did you just replace the gravel in the 20 gallon tank 10 minutes ago or do you mean the photo is from "10 minutes ago"? Because you don't want to be replacing anything in a cycling tank...

 

[KribensisLover1]

Did you just replace the gravel in the 20 gallon tank 10 minutes ago or do you mean the photo is from "10 minutes ago"?

The photo with the black gravel is one I took ten min ago.
So the blue gravel is from 9/12.
The black gravel is from this tank only but it’s been in there the whole time. I meant the PIC was taken ten minutes ago. Nothing new except the picture was the newest in that group!
That sounds confusing. But nothing In this tank has been added or taken away since I set it up ten days ago! The picture I took for the thread so it’s updated but the tank and gravel are not. How can I make an answer like this SO confusing lol.

 

[Momgoose56]

The photo with the black gravel is one I took ten min ago.
So the blue gravel is from 9/12.
The black gravel is from this tank only but it’s been in there the whole time. I meant the PIC was taken ten minutes ago. Nothing new except the picture was the newest in that group!

Okay, whew! A lot of your beneficial bacteria is growing on that gravel, removing and replacing anything, including filter cartridges, gravel, wood, decorations etc.. also removes that good bacteria...but you already knew that...

 

[KribensisLover1]

Okay, whew! A lot of your beneficial bacteria is growing on that gravel, removing and replacing anything, including filter cartridges, gravel, wood, decorations etc.. also removes that good bacteria...but you already knew that...

Uhh yea of course I did! Hahahaha no I didn’t but I don’t go in there because I don’t want to stress them out. Though I DID take out a deep sand box and put a shallower one in but it was same exact sand just less of it!

 

[KribensisLover1]

Okay, whew! A lot of your beneficial bacteria is growing on that gravel, removing and replacing anything, including filter cartridges, gravel, wood, decorations etc.. also removes that good bacteria...but you already knew that...

Waif correct me if I’m wrong. But doesn’t water look better today.

 

[Momgoose56]

Waif correct me if I’m wrong. But doesn’t water look better today.

Yes! But how's it testing?

 

[KribensisLover1]

Yes! But how's it testing?

Not sure if you can see but it’s arriving today by 9 pm! I think I need to learn to ‘chill’ and ‘wait’ and when Unsure do nothing. That’s what your advice seems to be. I mean chill until I can give concrete answers. No point in nonstop speculation on each water molecule!

Not sure if you can see but it’s arriving today by 9 pm! I think I need to learn to ‘chill’ and ‘wait’ and when Unsure do nothing. That’s what your advice seems to be. I mean chill until I can give concrete answers. No point in nonstop speculation on each water molecule!

So what I’m sayinf

Not sure if you can see but it’s arriving today by 9 pm! I think I need to learn to ‘chill’ and ‘wait’ and when Unsure do nothing. That’s what your advice seems to be. I mean chill until I can give concrete answers. No point in nonstop speculation on each water molecule!

OKAY
Test results

I believe
1.) ph high range: 7.5
2.) ammonia .5–1.0
3.) nitrates 0 ppm
4.) nitrates test 2: 0 ppm
I Know I need dech. Seacheam. nothing else until then right? Until it arrives

AM READING ABOUT NITROGEN NOW! I have another filter a marina s10
SlI'm for a ten gallon. I can use that too.

 

[Momgoose56]

So what I’m sayinf



OKAY
Test results

I believe
1.) ph high range: 7.5
2.) ammonia .5–1.0
3.) nitrates 0 ppm
4.) nitrates test 2: 0 ppm
I Know I need dech. Seacheam. nothing else until then right? Until it arrives

AM READING ABOUT NITROGEN NOW!

Well, you have been doing a good job keeping the ammonia level down with water changes. Unfortunately, you need to get it down even more. Another 50% water change should get it down under .5 ppm and you'll need to keep it well below. 5 ppm with water changes until the Prime arrives. Do you know when it will arrive? Apparently you have no beneficial bacteria at all growing in your tank yet. You would see some nitrites if you did. So we're just getting started. Good thing is your pH is good for growing bacteria. What is your tank temperature? Do you know? It'll take a few weeks to cycle but the Prime will protect your fish during that process.

 

[KribensisLover1]

Well, you have been doing a good job keeping the ammonia level down with water changes. Unfortunately, you need to get it down even more. Another 50% water change should get it down under .5 ppm and you'll need to keep it well below. 5 ppm with water changes until the Prime arrives. Do you know when it will arrive? Apparently you have no beneficial bacteria at all growing in your tank yet. You would see some nitrites if you did. So we're just getting started. Good thing is your pH is good for growing bacteria. What is your tank temperature? Do you know? It'll take a few weeks to cycle but the Prime will protect your fish during that process.

I used top fin nitrifying readistart bacteria starter just now (only amount for ten gallons bc didn’t want to use for twenty). It’s coming Sat. My tank temp is low right now. But I’m so depressed. I think one has ich. I’m watching them die. I’m miserable.

 

[Momgoose56]

I used top fin nitrifying readistart bacteria starter just now (only amount for ten gallons bc didn’t want to use for twenty). It’s coming Sat. My tank temp is low right now. But I’m so depressed. I think one has ich. I’m watching them die. I’m miserable.

That does look like ich. Ich is curable. Do you have a local fish store?

 

[KribensisLover1]

That does look like ich. Ich is curable. Do you have a local fish store?

Yes

but They all have it except one of my loaches. What do I need

 

[Momgoose56]

Yes

but They all have it except one of my loaches. What do I need

Okay, you'll need a thermostatically controlled aquarium heater (100-150 watt) and thermometer. Your going to have to bring the tank temp up some or you'll be treating the ich for weeks. You'll also need an ich medication that contains formalin and malachite green also known as Victoria green or malachite blue. "Rid ich" is one brand but see what your fish store has that contains those two ingredients. You'll be dosing that at half strength because the loaches are sensitive to ich meds. Here's a good article that talkes about treating ich on loaches: Dealing with Ich - Loaches Online Forum
You're going to need to do a giant (75% to 80%) water change and thoroughly vacuum your substrate just before you put the first dose in the tank. You also need to remove and throw away any carbon in your filter. You'll need fresh carbon to remove residual medication when the treatment is complete. K?
So
Heater-100 watt should be fine
Thermometer (if you don't have one)
Ich med
Carbon cartridge for filter (for after treatment)
I'll brb -in 45 minutes or so if any other questions k?

 

[KribensisLover1]

Okay, you'll need a thermostatically controlled aquarium heater (100-150 watt) and thermometer. Your going to have to bring the tank temp up some or you'll be treating the ich for weeks. You'll also need an ich medication that contains formalin and malachite green also known as Victoria green or malachite blue. "Rid ich" is one brand but see what your fish store has that contains those two ingredients. You'll be dosing that at half strength because the loaches are sensitive to ich meds. Here's a good article that talkes about treating ich on loaches: Dealing with Ich - Loaches Online Forum
You're going to need to do a giant (75% to 80%) water change and thoroughly vacuum your substrate just before you put the first dose in the tank. You also need to remove and throw away any carbon in your filter. You'll need fresh carbon to remove residual medication when the treatment is complete. K?
So
Heater-100 watt should be fine
Thermometer (if you don't have one)
Ich med
Carbon cartridge for filter (for after treatment)
I'll brb -in 45 minutes or so if any other questions k?

So I honestly think my lfs will only have organic ich cure

which I prefer as I don’t want carcinogens as much as I do love my babies that freaks me out! Thank you for the loach info that’s amazing! Going now to get something to help treat the tank as well as a heater. So good to know to dose half.

 

[Fljoe]

Well, you have been doing a good job keeping the ammonia level down with water changes. Unfortunately, you need to get it down even more. Another 50% water change should get it down under .5 ppm and you'll need to keep it well below. 5 ppm with water changes until the Prime arrives. Do you know when it will arrive? Apparently you have no beneficial bacteria at all growing in your tank yet. You would see some nitrites if you did. So we're just getting started. Good thing is your pH is good for growing bacteria. What is your tank temperature? Do you know? It'll take a few weeks to cycle but the Prime will protect your fish during that process.

I am concerned about the OP saying nitrate test 2! Did the OP read the instructions carefully? Did he only use bottle 2?

 

[KribensisLover1]

I am concerned about the OP saying nitrate test 2! Did the OP read the instructions carefully? Did he only use bottle 2?

Okay so there were two nitrate tests

one said five drops and turned vlue
one had TWO bottles ten drops each very specific about shaking and stuff and turned pale yellow.
there were three nitrate bottles in all two diff tests

 

[Momgoose56]

Okay so there were two nitrate tests
one said five drops and turned vlue
one had TWO bottles ten drops each very specific about shaking and stuff and turned pale yellow.
there were three nitrate bottles in all two diff tests

The test with only one bottle is a NITRITE test
The test with two bottles and specific shaking instructions is a NITRATE test.
Be sure you know what bottle you're using when you do those tests....

 

[Fljoe]

Okay so there were two nitrate tests

one said five drops and turned vlue
one had TWO bottles ten drops each very specific about shaking and stuff and turned pale yellow.
there were three nitrate bottles in all two diff tests

I’m an old guy and I know those instructions are small. You are misreading. Your nitrite test is the one bottle with 5 drops. Your nitrate test is the 2 bottles with the specific instructions about shaking the number 2 bottle and then shaking the test tube.

 

[KribensisLover1]

The test with only one bottle is a NITRITE test
The test with two bottles and specific shaking instructions is a NITRATE test.
Be sure you know what bottle you're using when you do those tests....

You guys are the bomb!

I’m an old guy and I know those instructions are small. You are misreading. Your nitrite test is the one bottle with 5 drops. Your nitrate test is the 2 bottles with the specific instructions about shaking the number 2 bottle and then shaking the test tube.

You’re awesome! TY! Never heard of it so misread!

 

[Momgoose56]

So I honestly think my lfs will only have organic ich cure

which I prefer as I don’t want carcinogens as much as I do love my babies that freaks me out! Thank you for the loach info that’s amazing! Going now to get something to help treat the tank as well as a heater. So good to know to dose half.

If you're using some organic herbal thing other than a real medication, you probably don't have to do half the dose.

 

[KribensisLover1]

If you're using some organic herbal thing other than a real medication, you probably don't have to do half the dose.

Okay, you'll need a thermostatically controlled aquarium heater (100-150 watt) and thermometer. Your going to have to bring the tank temp up some or you'll be treating the ich for weeks. You'll also need an ich medication that contains formalin and malachite green also known as Victoria green or malachite blue. "Rid ich" is one brand but see what your fish store has that contains those two ingredients. You'll be dosing that at half strength because the loaches are sensitive to ich meds. Here's a good article that talkes about treating ich on loaches: Dealing with Ich - Loaches Online Forum
You're going to need to do a giant (75% to 80%) water change and thoroughly vacuum your substrate just before you put the first dose in the tank. You also need to remove and throw away any carbon in your filter. You'll need fresh carbon to remove residual medication when the treatment is complete. K?
So
Heater-100 watt should be fine
Thermometer (if you don't have one)
Ich med
Carbon cartridge for filter (for after treatment)
I'll brb -in 45 minutes or so if any other questions k?

Ok so here’s what I was told to do at fish store. NOW THAT DOESNT MEAN I WILL you know I listen to you! But he sold me parasite remedy and said do half a dose (which is like 100 drops!)

he said to put heater in and turn it to 72. Then he said to take my aquaclear filter mechanics out and leave the water running but with nothing in the filter area. he said bc it’s too late to do a water change tonite that I should take filter stuff out and dose the water.

THEN tomorrow mid morning I should do a 25% water change. Then I should (24 hours after dosing, so that would be tomorrow night) put filter bio stuff back in filter for 24 hours so my tank doesn’t get too murky. THEN he said on sat night take out filter stuff and dose again. Then Sunday night put filter back in, Monday night dose again. Then take a break (the bottle said so so he said so)
I listen to you but I just wanted to tell you what a person said in case you were interested! If not I am reading the link and following your directions!

Okay, you'll need a thermostatically controlled aquarium heater (100-150 watt) and thermometer. Your going to have to bring the tank temp up some or you'll be treating the ich for weeks. You'll also need an ich medication that contains formalin and malachite green also known as Victoria green or malachite blue. "Rid ich" is one brand but see what your fish store has that contains those two ingredients. You'll be dosing that at half strength because the loaches are sensitive to ich meds. Here's a good article that talkes about treating ich on loaches: Dealing with Ich - Loaches Online Forum
You're going to need to do a giant (75% to 80%) water change and thoroughly vacuum your substrate just before you put the first dose in the tank. You also need to remove and throw away any carbon in your filter. You'll need fresh carbon to remove residual medication when the treatment is complete. K?
So
Heater-100 watt should be fine
Thermometer (if you don't have one)
Ich med
Carbon cartridge for filter (for after treatment)
I'll brb -in 45 minutes or so if any other questions k?

Just got home to begin!

Ok so here’s what I was told to do at fish store. NOW THAT DOESNT MEAN I WILL you know I listen to you! But he sold me parasite remedy and said do half a dose (which is like 100 drops!)

he said to put heater in and turn it to 72. Then he said to take my aquaclear filter mechanics out and leave the water running but with nothing in the filter area. he said bc it’s too late to do a water change tonite that I should take filter stuff out and dose the water.

THEN tomorrow mid morning I should do a 25% water change. Then I should (24 hours after dosing, so that would be tomorrow night) put filter bio stuff back in filter for 24 hours so my tank doesn’t get too murky. THEN he said on sat night take out filter stuff and dose again. Then Sunday night put filter back in, Monday night dose again. Then take a break (the bottle said so so he said so)
I listen to you but I just wanted to tell you what a person said in case you were interested! If not I am reading the link and following your directions!