120L Walstad tank

Sprinkle

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Hi, I really want to make about 120L or more Wlstad tank. I know what soil and plants and I know on how to do the set up, but I'll need some further info on light and other needed stuff to set up that tank.
 

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These tanks are some of my favorites. I have 4 of 7 tanks set like this. Lighting is up to you, I've used several with great success. One of my favorite setups I purchased two reptile lamps, and screwed two 14 watt, 10k bulbs. This was 28 watts total, which was a bit of an excess for a 10 gallon but heavily planted + floating plants resulted in no algae and incredible plant growth.

My 75 gallon is also a walstad tank. I went with something slightly different. I purchased 3 flood lights off of amazon, 6.5k, 35W each. This proved to be a bit to much, so I had to lift off the lid, but once some distance was placed, plants began flourishing very well.

Just to reiterate some Walstad knowledge - floating plants are crucial. Without them, tank parameters can and likely will swing out of control. Personally I use giant duckweed as it reproduces incredibly fast.
 

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These tanks are some of my favorites. I have 4 of 7 tanks set like this. Lighting is up to you, I've used several with great success. One of my favorite setups I purchased two reptile lamps, and screwed two 14 watt, 10k bulbs. This was 28 watts total, which was a bit of an excess for a 10 gallon but heavily planted + floating plants resulted in no algae and incredible plant growth.

My 75 gallon is also a walstad tank. I went with something slightly different. I purchased 3 flood lights off of amazon, 6.5k, 35W each. This proved to be a bit to much, so I had to lift off the lid, but once some distance was placed, plants began flourishing very well.

Just to reiterate some Walstad knowledge - floating plants are crucial. Without them, tank parameters can and likely will swing out of control. Personally I use giant duckweed as it reproduces incredibly fast.
Amazing. These tanks are just amazing. You don't have to change water as often as you should with just regular tanks.
How do I keep those tanks oxygenated well?
 
These tanks are some of my favorites. I have 4 of 7 tanks set like this. Lighting is up to you, I've used several with great success. One of my favorite setups I purchased two reptile lamps, and screwed two 14 watt, 10k bulbs. This was 28 watts total, which was a bit of an excess for a 10 gallon but heavily planted + floating plants resulted in no algae and incredible plant growth.

My 75 gallon is also a walstad tank. I went with something slightly different. I purchased 3 flood lights off of amazon, 6.5k, 35W each. This proved to be a bit to much, so I had to lift off the lid, but once some distance was placed, plants began flourishing very well.

Just to reiterate some Walstad knowledge - floating plants are crucial. Without them, tank parameters can and likely will swing out of control. Personally I use giant duckweed as it reproduces incredibly fast.

This post got me feeling all types of nostalgia. I set up my first dirted tank 8 years ago. And despite London's water being insane it was the most balanced tank I had ever created. It's without a doubt the most influential tank I've ever had and for the most part guides how I approach the hobby today.

That said, I'm curious about your duckweed situation. I used organic dirt topped with EC and pressurized co2.and my plants went on an insane growing spree. But I never used Duckweed or heard of it being essential until now.

Amazing. These tanks are just amazing. You don't have to change water as often as you should with just regular tanks.
How do I keep those tanks oxygenated well?

Depending on the type of plant growth and stocking you can get away with less but personally, I'd still recommend 50% WC weekly. As for oxygenated that's still surface tension either via spray bar/return or bubble created via an air pump, tubing, and diffuser.
 
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When I'll make (or set it up) the tank, I'll post a new post asking about a good light to it.
 
Hi, I really want to make about 120L or more Wlstad tank. I know what soil and plants and I know on how to do the set up, but I'll need some further info on light and other needed stuff to set up that tank.

Hello Spr...

The Walstad method makes for a nicely planted tank. But, the Walstad tank I set up several years ago didn't work long term. The soil I used ran out of nutrients after six months and I had to use root tabs and liquids to fertilize the plants. The fertilizers didn't agree with the fish, so I moved to a Terraphyte type tank. If you're looking to reduce your water changes, the Terraphyte tank doesn't need them. The Walstad does if you want to keep fish healthy.

Old
 

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Amazing. These tanks are just amazing. You don't have to change water as often as you should with just regular tanks.
How do I keep those tanks oxygenated well?
So long as it is densely planted, I never had an issue with oxygen levels. The plants produce enough. I have a dwarf sag carpet in one and it pearls regularly. Seen similar with dwarf hairgrass as well.
 
This post got me feeling all types of nostalgia. I set up my first dirted tank 8 years ago. And despite London's water being insane it was the most balanced tank I had ever created. It's without a doubt the most influential tank I've ever had and for the most part guides how I approach the hobby today.

That said, I'm curious about your duckweed situation. I used organic dirt topped with EC and pressurized co2.and my plants went on an insane growing spree. But I never used Duckweed or heard of it being essential until now.



Depending on the type of plant growth and stocking you can get away with less but personally, I'd still recommend 50% WC weekly. As for oxygenated that's still surface tension either via spray bar/return or bubble created via an air pump, tubing, and diffuser.
Diana does discuss the importance in her book, but for me it has significantly reduced algae outbreaks in the beginning stages due to the simple fact of duckweeds ( or any floating plants )"aerial advantage". With its roots being directly in the water column, they are able to absorb nutrients and nitrates very easily, acting as dozens of tiny nitrate sponges which new tanks usually benefit significantly from. I've found over time, if kept in moderation, they really benefit the tank but I do reduce the amount after the initial few months.
 
Hello Spr...

The Walstad method makes for a nicely planted tank. But, the Walstad tank I set up several years ago didn't work long term. The soil I used ran out of nutrients after six months and I had to use root tabs and liquids to fertilize the plants. The fertilizers didn't agree with the fish, so I moved to a Terraphyte type tank. If you're looking to reduce your water changes, the Terraphyte tank doesn't need them. The Walstad does if you want to keep fish healthy.

Old
I've never done a water change on my 75 walstad and it's been up for a year and a half if plenty of soil is used, floating plants, and perhaps some additional source of water movement...it isn't needed. But I would say for beginners it's always best to do water changes as they fix 99% of the problems we face in the hobby. 20200203_214101.jpg
 
I've never done a water change on my 75 walstad and it's been up for a year and a half if plenty of soil is used, floating plants, and perhaps some additional source of water movement...it isn't needed. But I would say for beginners it's always best to do water changes as they fix 99% of the problems we face in the hobby.View attachment 664149

Hello Guy...

Nicely done tank. Eventually, even a Walstad tank will require a water change. The reason being, you can't top off the tank with tap water forever. Eventually, you'll get a build up of minerals in the water and that can change the water chemistry fairly quickly. If you're using distilled or RO water for your top offs that would work. This way, you're not adding minerals. A larger tank can go for many months without the mineral build up. So, after just 18 months your tank is still good to go.

Just a thought.

Old
 
Hello Guy...

Nicely done tank. Eventually, even a Walstad tank will require a water change. The reason being, you can't top off the tank with tap water forever. Eventually, you'll get a build up of minerals in the water and that can change the water chemistry fairly quickly. If you're using distilled or RO water for your top offs that would work. This way, you're not adding minerals. A larger tank can go for many months without the mineral build up. So, after just 18 months your tank is still good to go.

Just a thought.

Old
That makes perfect sense. I should probably do one, my area has particularly hard water. Thanks!
 

Random Great Topic!

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