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2 heaters designed for a 150 or larger aquarium would probably be your best option. If you have a pond filter running, just place one near the filter outflow and one at the other end of the pond and that will probably work fine for distributing heat.

That doesn't look that bad (on top) but the two things to consider most are: The stand is obviously NOT made for that tank and the tank with ONLY water in it weighs at least 498 lbs. Are you comfortable using that stand knowing that?

That depends on the concentration of the Dr. Tim's you are using and what concentration ammonia you are aiming for in your tank (1, 2 or 4 ppm) Recently, (in the last year or so) some Dr. Tims ammonia bottles were apparently mislabeled and concentration levels were much higher than they were...

Giant Mesquite Bug Tiny baby blind snake

You said "tank tds is 231" and "Tap" tds is 1 (one)?? Then your tap tds goes up to 160 simply by adding Prime? This doesn't sound right. What test kit/brand are you using?

The videos look like a normal active goldfish to me. I don't think you have a problem here. Keep up the weekly 50% dechlorinated water changes, keep feeding as much as the fish will eat in 2-3 minutes and keep filters and media free of debris and your fish should be fine. Good luck! Yes.

Just keep waiting. Bacteria will grow in the presence of ammonia and warmth. Adding TSS may help speed things up at this point.

Nitrifying Bacteria dies when it dries out. If old filter media is dry, the bacteria is dead, not dormant.

She's just beautiful! Amazing how much they change in just a few months! How's training going?

You are comparing cold water fish to tropical fish again. Apples and oranges.

The ammonia level left behind after treatment with prime, IF chloramine IS present may be too low for a basic test kit like the API kit to detect.

I'd do another 75% water change and keep doing big water changes until the nitrites are about 2-4 ppm.

Not sure what your question is but if you're using the API test kit, it doesn't differentiate between ammonia and ammonium so will test positive for both (until your tank finishes cycling). As long as you are treating the tank every 48 hours and replacement water with Prime what you see is a...

Okay, those params look better. Now you'll want to watch nitrites (keep them at <5) and keep nitrates below 80 with water changes and redose ammonia to 2ppm when it gets between 0 and 1. I am surprised that you fully cycled a tank with no seeded media in 2 weeks with a pH of 6.6. It takes...

I suggest, as others have, do another water change and retest. What test kit are you using?

Thanks, couldn't remember mol. weight and too lazy to look it up lol! So, divide weight of Nitrites (~46) by the weight of ammonia (~17) and that equals 2.7059. Same with Nitrates.

1 ppm ammonia produces ~2.7 ppm nitrites 1ppm ammonia, after nitrite oxidation produces ~3.6 ppm nitrates

Jumping in here. Earlier you said (and I paraphrase) you chose fishless cycling so no fish were sacrificed just to speed up the cycling process. I applaud your decision. Ammonia is ammonia whether it comes from fish poop, fish food or is pure ammonia from a bottle. But cycling with fish IN the...

Two bud's enjoying a good chew together.... Hmmm... I can haz dis? Mmmmmm! The Chewie is ALWAYS tastier on the other side of the paw LOL!

It's not lazy, it's energy conservation lol!