Adequate Surface Agitation?

Hi all!

I was looking to get your opinion on if you think I am getting adequate surface agitation on my 210g tank. Between not being able to keep plants in this cichlid stocking, having this large of a tank, and having canister filters that don't seem to break the surface well, oxygen has been my boogeyman for this setup. I was originally running just one wavemaker on the left panel of the 210g pointing up. It moved the water well on the left 2/3rds of the tank, but the right side still felt a bit still.

I've now added a 2nd wavemaker on the middle of the back panel, also pointed up at the surface facing right like the other wavemaker. I wanted to see if you all thought that the surface agitation was enough, and if you think the placement of the wavemakers is ok? I know some people advise putting the 2nd wavemaker on the bottom right panel to create a circular motion, but I think that's more for waste tha oxygenation. I really just need the oxygenation.

I posted the video on Reddit here. Please let me know your thoughts! https://www.reddit.com/r/Cichlid/s/GYMxGq78Mq

The water movement looks to be more than adequate to sufficiently aerate the water. Looks good.

I like my wave makers to face each other, on the side glass of each extremity. This makes a resounding wave when they meet and disperses even more water.

I’m not sure I understand where you put yours. Have a picture ?

Thanks all!

Dechi - I can't seem to get a good picture of the two together so I'll try and explain better.

Both wavemakers are pointed to the right. One is attached to the left panel of the tank. The other is attached to the back panel of the tank about halfway across the tank from the first wavemaker. Both are positioned near the top of the water angled up to disrupt the surface.

Those who remember my posts may know I've been dealing with on and off oxygen issues via individual fish panting every couple months - possibly in mixture with overfeeding too large of meals. This tank is my first time keeping multiple large cichlids so I'm still trying to understand the balance of how much they need to eat to be properly fed vs clogging their stomachs.

I reduced feeding and noticed they seemed to have more energy and were moving around more and still begging even after feedings. It felt like I was barely giving them anything so this past week I relented and fed them more than usual - now once again I got a Zebrina Pike panting heavily (though otherwise acting normal).

Hopefully I didn't kill her. Every time I catch this issue the fish have recovered so I believe it'll be fine, but I kinda wanna figure out if it's the oxygen or the feeding causing the bigger issue here. Water parameters are perfect otherwise.

Hopefully I didn't kill her. Every time I catch this issue the fish have recovered so I believe it'll be fine, but I kinda wanna figure out if it's the oxygen or the feeding causing the bigger issue here. Water parameters are perfect otherwise.

Click to expand...

If your fish are doing better than the power heads are helping. Have you tested your ammonia, nitrite and nitrates recently ?

If your feeding a lot and not doing enough WC, your nitrates will be elevated. I used to have an Mbuna tank and for the first time of my life, I always had residual ammonia in my tank. And it also smelled so bad (no plants). No matter what I did the smell always lingered. I hate that tank.

But I digress. Start by testing and do a WC if you haven’t in a while.

If your fish are doing better than the power heads are helping. Have you tested your ammonia, nitrite and nitrates recently ?

If your feeding a lot and not doing enough WC, your nitrates will be elevated. I used to have an Mbuna tank and for the first time of my life, I always had residual ammonia in my tank. And it also smelled so bad (no plants). No matter what I did the smell always lingered. I hate that tank.

But I digress. Start by testing and do a WC if you haven’t in a while.

Click to expand...

I'm at 0/0/20 for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate. I'm changing 50% of the water weekly.

She hasn't gotten any better from the powerheads. My mind is immediately back to thinking gill flukes as a possibility. One of the brilliant fishlore members here (maybe it was even A201 or bgarthe) recommended I treat PraziPro a few months back when I dealt with this. Either that or the oxygen changes I made at that time worked, but after looking into it again I apparently needed to keep dosing for a couple weeks to kill any fluke eggs. Another mistake added to my recordbook.

I have seen my cichlids occasionally scratch, though not frequently. Verified there's no Ich. At this point I have so much surface agitation I ended up switching gears on the oxygen being the problem and ended up dosing PraziPro tonight and will see through the entire treatment regime this time.

So the new #1 suspect is long-term flukes, though we'll see if that proves true at all. If nothing changes with the meds I might be back to questioning if I've been overfeeding.

So the new #1 suspect is long-term flukes, though we'll see if that proves true at all. If nothing changes with the meds I might be back to questioning if I've been overfeeding.

Click to expand...

I feed 5 times a day when I add new fish and I have no problems. You’re doing everything right and your tests are good. I would look into diseases like what you’re already doing.

Regarding the possibility of gill flukes.
If you are currently using Prime water conditioner, Prime is a sulphur based product. It will neutralize, to some extent, the potency of Praziquantel (Prazipro).

If you choose to medicate again, select a water conditioner that does not contain sulphur.

Regarding the possibility of gill flukes.
If you are currently using Prime water conditioner, Prime is a sulphur based product. It will neutralize, to some extent, the potency of Praziquantel (Prazipro).

If you choose to medicate again, select a water conditioner that does not contain sulphur.

Click to expand...

Hi all. My fish unfortunately passed. I spoke to my LFS today who's great about what happened, and I told him I put 6mm pellets in the water for my Oscar, but other fish attempt to and sometimes successfully eat it.

He believes that could be causing fatal and non-fatal bloat in my different fish over the past year and could explain all of my struggles. I had no idea pellets of that size were too big for big cichlids, but I guess he sells that size specifically for his huge fish like Tialpia, Dovii, etc. Maybe you all agree but I think I found my culprit. Rip

Yeah, dry pellets are said to expand in water. I could see a potential intestinal blockage occurring.

I think your aquarium shop pro gave good advice.

I generally feed Omega One small grain sinking Cichlid & Catfish pellets. Rarely a problem with bloat issues.