Getting desperate! constantly cloudy water

Hi Dechi

I meant to ask, regarding the copper..

(the only reason I noticed it was when it came up on the test strip) but if those strips aren't entirely accurate, should I do a different test to recheck before even thinking of adding Cuprisorb if it is present?

I don't want to tinker and go back the way again just when I'm getting somewhere

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Don’t add anything if you’re not sure copper is present. You’re trying to bring stability to your tank. If you have reason to believe there is copper in your tap water, you could try to fix it first (using only water from the tap) and if your test comes back negative after fixing it, then it means you do have copper in the tank and it’s coming from your tap water.

It could also be coming from your equipment so you need to inspect it for any part containing copper that might be leaching into the water. If that’s the case, remove it and it’s taken care of. Your WC will do the rest.

Have you tested again after your 80% WC ? What doest the test say ?

Inverts are very sensitive to copper so if you have some and they are doing fine, I wouldn’t worry about it. We need to be careful too with test results coming from strips.

If you can’t find any definite answer, I would just be mindful of it and observe, but I wouldn’t do anything to the tank for now.

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Don’t add anything if you’re not sure copper is present. You’re trying to bring stability to your tank. If you have reason to believe there is copper in your tap water, you could try to fix it first (using only water from the tap) and if your test comes back negative after fixing it, then it means you do have copper in the tank and it’s coming from your tap water.

It could also be coming from your equipment so you need to inspect it for any part containing copper that might be leaching into the water. If that’s the case, remove it and it’s taken care of. Your WC will do the rest.

Have you tested again after your 80% WC ? What doest the test say ?

Inverts are very sensitive to copper so if you have some and they are doing fine, I wouldn’t worry about it. We need to be careful too with test results coming from strips.

If you can’t find any definite answer, I would just be mindful of it and observe, but I wouldn’t do anything to the tank for now.

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I'll also test my tap water on its own, could be my pipes but again they're all doing fine for now

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If you want to do that, get a « 0 » sample (like source water or ro water) and see if the test still shows copper. And compare the two. If the « 0 » sample shows anything other than 0, then you know your test strip is garbage.

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If you want to do that, get a « 0 » sample (like source water or ro water) and see if the test still shows copper. And compare the two. If the « 0 » sample shows anything other than 0, then you know your test strip is garbage.

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Y

Yeah these strip tests are rubbish!

On the left is from tank water and the right is just tap water alone - absolutely zero difference! I've ordered the API one, should be here later today with Amazon

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It’s possible both test the same but getting the API master test kit is the right decision. It will last you for years, as long as it’s not expired.

As for heavy metals, you really don’t need to buy any tests unless there is a specific issue with your tank. It’s not needed for routine testing.

How is the water clarity today ? Can you make a video of your tank with lights on ?

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Too many videos but wasn't sure if any would upload

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Best is to upload on YouTube and copy the link here.

What are those white rings ? Are you training your fish ?

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No Sapphire loves dashing through them when it's time for a feed!

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Well, that’s training so well done !

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My wall behind the tank makes it look bland, I'll need to get the black background on soon to really make things pop

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It’s going to look even nicer with a background. You’ve done a good job !

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Hi again Angela,
My first concern is that foam on the surface of the water, usually caused by an excessive amount of organic matter broken down in the water column. Overfeeding, dead fish, decaying plants etc.
Looks like another bacterial or algae bloom. If its white its bacterial if its green its algae, its hard for me to tell as my eyesight is not what it used to be and im also colour blind.
Algae bloom = decrease light intensity or length of time its on.
Bacterial bloom = not enough beneficial bacteria in the filter to handle the amount of waste in the tank.
Did you overclean the filter again? Other causes are putting your hands in that had antibacterial cream, bleach etc things that kill bacteria basically.
Are all your api tests sitting normal?

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Hi again Angela,
My first concern is that foam on the surface of the water, usually caused by an excessive amount of organic matter broken down in the water column. Overfeeding, dead fish, decaying plants etc.
Looks like another bacterial or algae bloom. If its white its bacterial if its green its algae, its hard for me to tell as my eyesight is not what it used to be and im also colour blind.
Algae bloom = decrease light intensity or length of time its on.
Bacterial bloom = not enough beneficial bacteria in the filter to handle the amount of waste in the tank.
Did you overclean the filter again? Other causes are putting your hands in that had antibacterial cream, bleach etc things that kill bacteria basically.
Are all your api tests sitting normal?

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Sapphire will be fine on tetras food as will the Cory's.
Always feed less than you think they need, if someone goes without food they will be sure to be first in line for food at the next feeding time lol.
I wonder if your ph has dropped again and made some of the beneficial bacteria go dormant.
I myself have had an unexpected bacterial bloom and put it down to red root floating plants that I added and didnt do well and broke into a trillion bits but i tested my water and ph was low.
Being in Scotland myself (although up in Aberdeen) we have soft water.
Its usually fine for the aquarium but just lately seems to be softer than usual.
To save messing with baking soda etc which is just a faff in my opinion I put crushed coral in my filters to keep the hardness up, it stops ph dropping over time and adds hardness to the water.
The nerites need a constant supply of algae and biofilm as they are picky with other foods, so because there's not enough algae for all those 8 snails they may just sleeping somewhere. They might pass away due to starvation. I read somewhere 1 nerite per 10 gallon tank in order to ensure enough algae and biofilm.
I think crushed coral is the way to go to solve water hardness and ph.
If your beneficial bacteria has gone dormant it will show up as ammonia on your test kit as its not being processed by the bacteria.

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What I see appears to be a free floating algae bloom. What is your light intensity and duration? What does your tap water test out at for Phosphates?

My suggestion earlier was the AA Green Killing Machine (9w). Please consider it.

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You have under 6 ph by the looks of it. Its that low it isn't even showing up on the ph scale.
A much much quicker result will be to put the coral in the filter as you can imagine the flow wearing away at the coral as it rushes by it.

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It does look green (even to me) in that latest picture right enough.
The algae will feed the snails eventually when it lands on stuff but not while its floating free in the water.
A big sudden algae bloom would suggest too bright light or on too long.
I sorted algae with only having light on 6 hrs. I still have algae up close to the light on plants.

Don't swish it plz lol

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I've used the lights on the setting to mimic a normal environment so starts off kind of orange goes up to full daylight before going to blue and switches off at 11pm

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No this is not normal. How long are your lights on ? They should be on about 6 hours per day, with low intensity ramp up and ramp down included in this 6 hours. This is a new aquarium. You can increase slowly later on, like 10% per week.

Also, you seem to be feeding way too much. Bettas need 2-3 pellets per day, cories and snails don’t need to be fed because they will get what’s on the bottom. A few tetras need very little food and try to avoid flakes because it soils the water a lot. At least until your water has been stable for a few months.

So turn the lights down in intensity and duration and feed a lot less. Do a daily WC if you can while you’re sorting this out. A UV light will work but it’s not going to teach you how to run your tank.

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No this is not normal. How long are your lights on ? They should be on about 6 hours per day, with low intensity ramp up and ramp down included in this 6 hours. This is a new aquarium. You can increase slowly later on, like 10% per week.

Also, you seem to be feeding way too much. Bettas need 2-3 pellets per day, cories and snails don’t need to be fed because they will get what’s on the bottom. A few tetras need very little food and try to avoid flakes because it soils the water a lot. At least until your water has been stable for a few months.

So turn the lights down in intensity and duration and feed a lot less. Do a daily WC if you can while you’re sorting this out. A UV light will work but it’s not going to teach you how to run your tank.

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I agree regarding others feeding fish. You might best pre measure your food feeding and place into little plastic containers clearly marked.
Cutting back some on light duration and or intensity would be helpful as well.

And while you’re getting your parameters all set, do test for phosphates and nitrates in your tap water.

Crushed coral with a killing machine should do the trick. Be sure to continue monitoring though.

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When I go out of town I leave a 1/4 tsp measuring spoon by the fish food with instructions to feed either a heaping 1/4 tsp for my 75 gallon community tank and a scant 1/4 tsp for my 38 gallon. I remind the neighbor who comes in to feed that the fish have very tiny mouths and stomachs so they don't need much food and won't starve.

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Glad it’s working for you ! Your water is very still at the surface. Increasing water agitation would be good for your fish and in general. Just aim a small powerhead at the surface.

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