Would this light combo work well for my setup?

Found a 72" LED fixture, will it work though?

Hey there
I am setting up a non-planted rock only MalawI Mbuna 125 (72" or 6 foot) and I've been looking and looking until I stumbled across these: or I am leaning towards the 10K/actinic over the multI color full spectrum (that one is probably better for planted tanks and would also lend itself for more algae growth).

For the price and one of very few available 72" LED fixture sizes I am VERY tempted. However, I'm on the fence choosing the 10K and Actinic.

I have a tall 60G with a Satellite Freshwater LED + and I often run the white light at 100% and then bump the blue to about 30% and I have red and green off. So I am thinking my taste lends to the 10K/actinic combo. My tank will have lots of white limestone holey rock, natural fine pea gravel and a painted black back. I have 8 yellow labs, 8 yellow tail acei, and 8 red zebras. I would plan to add another mbuna species and possible two blood red parrots.

Guys, would this 10K/actinic combo work well for my setup? Would it look like a very bluish reef tank?

Thanks,
Roy

 

For a MalawI tank I recommend these I use the 48in version in my tank the ones you linked are of lower quality. This is the light it also comes in 10000k but I like 6500k better.

Side note look at this for stocking your tank

 

Awesome, thank you LeoDiaz!


Well now, I gotta say that I don't think I would like an all 6500K light...too warm/yellow for my taste. But on the other hand, I'm unsure if I would like an 80% 10000K and 20% actinic light as well...maybe too cool/blue? I "think" a 50% 10000K, 20% 6500K and 20% actinic would be just right? LOL, no I don't think my budget allows for any "build my led" projects


For the stocking, you recommend:


125G Mbunas-
Mbunas
Options-species only or 4/5 speciesmale and female
Species only- 1male 7-10 females for large Mbunas 7/8in and mbuna that are aggressive or 3males and 12-18females for milder Mbunas. I recommend this one more having a breeding stock of large mbuna like petrotilapia.
4/5 species- 4 species that don't look alike and are not the aggressive Mbunas 3males to 12 females of each species.
5 species- 5 species don't look alike same aggression level 1m to 7/8 females


Right now in my 60G I have 6 yellow labs and 2 are male. 6 yellow tail aceI and I have no idea other than I know I have at least one male, maybe 2 and I have 6 red zebras and for sure only have one male. I have 3 syn multipuntotis (sp?) and one adult male albino bristle nose pleco. I'm replacing this 60G with a 125G and will keep the live stock. So I could add one more species correct? Now what to choose...decisions decisions


Thanks,
Roy

 

6500k is to warm and yellow? I thing you have the wrong kelvin 6500k is the closest you will get to pure white light. Here my tank with 6500k led



On your stocking question yes you could have another species but you shouldnt mix yellow labs and red zebras they will crossbreed.

 

Yes, it seems I do have some misunderstanding. I looked up normal K scales and GE has a nice site showing the levels and colors. So indeed, if I went with a fixture of 80% 10000K and 20% actinc then the overall color would be VERY bluish?

I see the ELF fixture is by Beamworks and the other one I mentioned doesn't have a name. One key difference is the lumen where the one I mentioned is only 3700 lumen and the ELF is 12000 lumen...that's a HUGE difference for each 72" fixture.

I also like that the ELF has two modes of just the same light one at 100% and the other at 30%.

Looking like I might go with that fixture but now I'm trying to determine if that timer module is necessary to have mode 1/2 on timers or if there's a way to just use regular timers (would need two power supplies).

So I see you have yellow labs in that setup. What are the other ones? They won't cross breed?

Thanks,
Roy

 

That light I link you can use a regular timer you get at any store. The fish in my setup are yellow labs, snow whites and giant demasonI there setup to not try to interbreed.

 

*Update*

I just stumbled across a very interesting and very new video on comparing a few fixtures for a 6' 125G of cichlids, rock and dark background. Video is below, but here are the take-aways for me:

1. No doubt I won't use florescent fixtures.
2. I have to be careful here and not buy something without all-around good utility. For example the single 72" 6500K 8400 lumen fixture is nice in that it's only one fixture but of the two modes he feels both are lacking. The low light mode is too low for normal long duration use (perfect for enabling early morning and late evening) and the other 100% light mode is exactly as he states, like your standing on the surface of the sun. The fixture you linked is even brighter at 12000 lumen. Now how on earth would this fixture be at a pleasant power level at 100% mode? Now granted, the other less power mode might be brighter than the low power mode of this guy's review and work great but then what's the point in buying the power if you are not going to use it?
3. I tend to agree, he last option of two 36" 10000K + Actinic 1200 lumen fixtures look the best of all the ones reviewed.

See this isn't going to be easy when you can't try before you buy. Interestingly enough the 72" 6500K 12000 lumen fixture you recommend is the same build and sold by the same person on ebay as the 2 36" 10000K/Actinic 1200 lumen fixtures, so maybe they make the same one in 72" which should be a total of 2400 lumen.

I also sent a question to the ebay seller about the 72" 6500K 120000 lumen fixture and here's that question and response:
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Dear niswanger,

We recommend 6500K usually for planted tanks. The blue/white version will work for freshwater FOWLR tanks.


- topdogsellers
Click the Respond button to reply through Messages, or go to your email to reply

Respond




From: niswanger
To: topdogsellers
Subject: Other: niswanger sent a message about ELF 1800 LED Pent 72" 0.50W Aquarium Light Marine FOWLR Cichlid 180cm 280x 0.50W #291487426241
Sent Date: Sep-22-15 20:31:30 PDT


Dear topdogsellers,


Hi, I'm needing to light a 6 foot 125G fresh water cichlid aquarium with a painted black back, lots of white limestone holey rock and natural fine pea gravel substrate. I'm having a hard time deciding betwwen this 72" fixture I am used to using a Satilite Freshwater LED + 48" on a 55 gallon and I typically use only 100% white and about 30% blue. I like a clean and clear day light and I don't like warm/yellowish light. Which should I choose? Do you have any other 72" fixtures that have more bells and whistles such as ramp programing or at least to be able to run 2 modes of both white and blue (like full power and then half power, but both white and blue)?


Thank you,
Roy
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Finally here's the video, please let me know what you think:

Thanks,
Roy

 

I'm so lost now but the one I linked can draw some power. But this one is the same 10000k with blue LEDs

 

LOL, I tend to do that in type form aka email too. Just watch the video, what do you think? I think a 12000 lumen fixture that has only two modes of full power (white and blue led) OR just blue led would be so much light I couldn't use it. Plus the blue only LED would probably never be used and would rather have a 10000K/actinic that has full power mode and 1/2 power mode only. If you watch the video he shows one 6ft 8400 lumen and he says it's like standing on the surface of the sun.

My focus now seems to be to find about a 3000 total lumen fixture that is 10000K + some actinic in a 6 foot fixture configuration...LOL, that's one of the two I mentioned in my OP...the lesser quality

 

Can I ask you why you want 10000k plus actinic? Also you can make not seem as bright by using a black background and black sand. I will be getting the 72in 6500k one in the future I'll make sure to make a review on it.

 

Can I ask you why you want 10000k plus actinic? Also you can make not seem as bright by using a black background and black sand.

Because in that video review, the last setup which he likes best, as well as I, are 2 36" 1200 lumen each 10000K plus actinc. My setup is almost identical with light colored rock but slightly darker substrate (he has white/tan sand). I had black sand before and removed it so it's not an option going forward. Also, LFS guy (chchlid guru) says he runs to T5HO dual lamp lights on his 72" 150G with half of the bulbs being 10000K and half of them being actinic and showed me a video and it looks fantastic. For some reason the fish always seem more spectacular in the 10000K/actinic combination.

This is why I think I would like the full power output and color of this 72" 3700 lumen 10000K + actinic fixture of all the ones I've seen thus far:

^My only gripe on this is the modes...the second mode of just actinic is a waste for me and would prefer just 1/2 power (half of ALL LEDs energized)

Thanks,
Roy

 

Because in that video review, the last setup which he likes best, as well as I, are 2 36" 1200 lumen each 10000K plus actinc. My setup is almost identical with light colored rock but slightly darker substrate (he has white/tan sand). I had black sand before and removed it so it's not an option going forward. Also, LFS guy (chchlid guru) says he runs to T5HO dual lamp lights on his 72" 150G with half of the bulbs being 10000K and half of them being actinic and showed me a video and it looks fantastic. For some reason the fish always seem more spectacular in the 10000K/actinic combination.

This is why I think I would like the full power output and color of this 72" 3700 lumen 10000K + actinic fixture of all the ones I've seen thus far:

^My only gripe on this is the modes...the second mode of just actinic is a waste for me and would prefer just 1/2 power (half of ALL LEDs energized)

Thanks,
Roy

I don't see how 10000k with blue LEDs are better the only benefit I might see is a on blue fish but even my blue fish looks stunning in 6500k. But is your call. Yellows, whites,reds,blue basically all colors look good under 6500k. My blue fish under 6500k light
. But I guess is up to personal preference. Also the light you link I wouldn't trust it look for one with at least .5 watt LEDs.

 

These are all great points and I think this is building up to be a good thread that focuses on two personal views, one being that of more experience. Now for your watt recommendation and trust. To me a watt is a watt same number of .5W leds VS same number of .1W leds shouldn't vary quality or trust in my opinion. There is where the difference of lumens comes into play. And it's adding up to me, 3700 lumen vs 12000 lumen. But more is not necessarily better nor is less always better.

So are there some documented articles about .1W leds being of less quality, not lasting as long, etc. VS .5+ watt leds?

Wow, this is will take some time on my part. I just installed my gas struts on my canopy as it the new finish and satin wipe-on poly has just cured. I still have to go through several passes of cerium oxide and my felt polisher on the 125G and then I'll strip all silicon and re-seal (I've done 3 so far). So best guess is that I won't have this up and running for at least 4 more weeks.

Curious about other's views on this as well

Thanks,
Roy

 

I forgot to mention the watt rule only applys to beamswork, the lights you see on eBay with no name are beamswork. To make them cheaper they use cheaper LEDs there many threads on other forums talking about the cheaper beamswork. They say how they didn't like them some didn't like the quality build either.

 

Cool, I'm keeping all of this in mind and will take a few weeks to choose the right fixture for my application.

Now, this being said I did a little research on my Current Satellite Freshwater LED+ 48" on my 60G. Recall I said I like running 100% white and about 30% blue. We actually I like to run about 75% white and 25% blue. I found out the white LEDs are 6500K but they don't mention what kind of blue (actinic wavelength etc.). So below are two photos. The bottom one is ~ 75% 6500K white LED only and the top one is 75% 6500K white LED and about %30 blue. Using my camera on "auto" white balance (WB) you can't tell the difference, so I set my camera's white balance to "daylight". Furthermore, I can tell you that these s are VERY close to what my eyes are seeing. This being said, I absolutely hate the Current Satellite 6500K LEDs as they are too warm for my taste.

Specs on the Current Satellite Freshwater LED+: Satellite Freshwater Plus LED - Current USA

Thanks,
Roy

 

The second pic looks a little yellow. Something must be wrong how could it supposedly have 6500k LEDs but give yellow tint.

 

Agree...all data from sites like GE etc. showing pictures and actual photometric data suggest 6500K being much whiter. Again, seeing with my eyes looks identical to the pictures but only when my camera is on a set "daylight" WB otherwise it's amazing how good my camera auto corrects WB.

I intend to reach out to Current and see what they say, but in the meantime I will be visiting some LFS here in Austin.

Thanks,
Roy