Worn Ventral And Pectoral Fin

PrincessBettafish
  • #1
So my female elephant ear, Opal, has a ripped left pectoral fin, which I believe she might have torn on a decoration. However, I just realized the webbing on her left ventral fin is worn almost completely down also. I haven't noticed any chance in her colors, appetite, or behavior. I tried to take a picture of her, but she's a very excitable and active little fish and taking a clear picture of her is very difficult.

I've been dosing her tank with Stresscoat, as I read it helps repair fins, but should I try anything else to prevent infections? I have Furan-2, and also have Garlic Guard and Methylene Blue ordered so I can start building a little fishy apothecary.
 
Discus-Tang
  • #2
Methylene blue will help, though it will stain your décor. I would recommend preparing a 1 gallon bath for your betta with methylene blue.
 
phenris
  • #3
Clean water is the best medicine for any sort of fin issues. I keep long-tail bettas, so I've had my fair share of fin tears and rot and loss, and I've never used any medicine but aquarium salt for the worst cases. Clean, cycled water has always worked just fine for my fish without all the pomp and circumstance of quarantine tanks etc when it comes to medicines. Also, when it comes to deco/fake plants, silk ones work best! Haven't had any issues with Meeko's fins since I ditched the plastic.
 
Adriifu
  • #4
What are your parameters? What's the temperature and size of the tank? Can we get a picture of the fish and its set-up? Are there any sharp decorations?

I will always suggest using Seachem Stress Guard rather than API Stress Coat. Works like a charm. Garlic Guard is great for their immune and digestive systems, but you don't necessarily need it in this situation. That narrows everything down to Furan-2 and Methylene Blue. Both medications will harm the beneficial bacteria in your filtration system, so a quarantine tank would be ideal. I prefer Furan-2 over Methylene Blue because it seems to be less harsh, but the choice is yours. Here's what I would do:

Perform 50% water changes every other day until the medication arrives. Use Seachem Prime and Seachem Stress Coat during this time. When the package comes, pick either Furan-2 or Methylene Blue. Set up a quarantine tank, preferably the same size as the regular tank. Add a decoration for him to hide in that you don't care about (may get stained). Follow the directions on the back of your chosen medication. Once the treatment is done and the fins have stopped deteriorating, you may move him back to his normal tank. Remember to keep the filtration going in the regular tank during quarantine, as you don't want to lose your cycle.
 
PrincessBettafish
  • Thread Starter
  • #5
What are your parameters? What's the temperature and size of the tank? Can we get a picture of the fish and its set-up? Are there any sharp decorations?

I will always suggest using Seachem Stress Guard rather than API Stress Coat. Works like a charm. Garlic Guard is great for their immune and digestive systems, but you don't necessarily need it in this situation. That narrows everything down to Furan-2 and Methylene Blue. Both medications will harm the beneficial bacteria in your filtration system, so a quarantine tank would be ideal. I prefer Furan-2 over Methylene Blue because it seems to be less harsh, but the choice is yours. Here's what I would do:

Perform 50% water changes every other day until the medication arrives. Use Seachem Prime and Seachem Stress Coat during this time. When the package comes, pick either Furan-2 or Methylene Blue. Set up a quarantine tank, preferably the same size as the regular tank. Add a decoration for him to hide in that you don't care about (may get stained). Follow the directions on the back of your chosen medication. Once the treatment is done and the fins have stopped deteriorating, you may move him back to his normal tank. Remember to keep the filtration going in the regular tank during quarantine, as you don't want to lose your cycle.

Parameters are all good, except for a slight ammonia spike at 0.25ppm. Temperature is about 78 F, and it's a 10 gallon; she's the only occupant. There were a few decorations she could have snagged her fins on, but I just rearranged her tank and removed those items to prevent anymore damage (assuming these changes caused the ammonia to spike slightly, but I'm keeping an eye on that). All that's in there now are silk plants (which I just trimmed little extra plastic off of), newly added java fern, Amazon sword, anubias, almond leaf, and a terracotta pot.

All of my other tanks are full, and her tank is the largest one I have. Could I possibly use a smaller, temporary tank as a quarantine tank? If she hasn't had any other symptoms of illness, do you think I should still medicate her? I'm not sure if she has fin rot, but I think she just injured herself. I'll hit up some pet stores tomorrow to see if they carry the Seachem brand items you recommended.

Unfortunately this is the best I could do trying to get a picture of her pectoral fin. Opal is really hyperactive and consistently difficult to photograph.


7kry02YNrK3ENclFzCJ8.jpg

1YxVsBYbHqcPJ782zCJ8.jpg
 
Adriifu
  • #6
There's your problem. Ammonia spike are never good. Keep performing water changes. You need to get the tank cycled before anything. Medication is only necessary if the fin rot continues to spread regardless of perfect parameters and consistent water changes. You don't have perfect parameters, so just start with water changes and see where everything goes from there.
 
PrincessBettafish
  • Thread Starter
  • #7
There's your problem. Ammonia spike are never good. Keep performing water changes. You need to get the tank cycled before anything. Medication is only necessary if the fin rot continues to spread regardless of perfect parameters and consistent water changes. You don't have perfect parameters, so just start with water changes and see where everything goes from there.

Do you know how long fins take to repair, and if fin rot would wear down the fins' spines as well? I only noticed her ventral fin injured yesterday, but it's the actual webbing; the spine is still there.
 
PrincessBettafish
  • Thread Starter
  • #8
Clean water is the best medicine for any sort of fin issues. I keep long-tail bettas, so I've had my fair share of fin tears and rot and loss, and I've never used any medicine but aquarium salt for the worst cases. Clean, cycled water has always worked just fine for my fish without all the pomp and circumstance of quarantine tanks etc when it comes to medicines. Also, when it comes to deco/fake plants, silk ones work best! Haven't had any issues with Meeko's fins since I ditched the plastic.

I have silk plants too, but I'm thinking she snagged on one of her other decorations. She likes to sleep in the back of the tank between where I had her cave and the filter. I removed everything I thought that might be a hazard to her, so hopefully she won't hurt herself. She's incredibly scrappy and likes to swim every inch of the tank, so I can't be sure what she did. I've been doing very frequent water changes on her tank in particular, so we'll see what happens.
 
Adriifu
  • #9
Do you know how long fins take to repair, and if fin rot would wear down the fins' spines as well? I only noticed her ventral fin injured yesterday, but it's the actual webbing; the spine is still there.
Fin rot will cause all of the finnage to deteriorate if not taken care of properly. Everything will eventually grow back (or almost everything in severe cases). New growth is usually clear in color.
 
PrincessBettafish
  • Thread Starter
  • #10
Fin rot will cause all of the finnage to deteriorate if not taken care of properly. Everything will eventually grow back (or almost everything in severe cases). New growth is usually clear in color.

Guess the best I can do for now is just keep an eye on her, make sure there's no more deterioration, and ensure the water quality is good and clean. Thanks for your help!
 
PrincessBettafish
  • Thread Starter
  • #11
Wanted to post an update! Opal's behavior, appetite, and colors haven't changed at all, and I haven't noticed any further damage to her fins. I've been doing 50% water changes every other day with Seachem Prime and Stressguard, but I haven't tried any additional meds because I don't think she has rot. She's a durable little fish, but I don't want to stress her out if I don't have to.

Should I continue to do frequent water changes until I notice new growth?
 
Adriifu
  • #12
Wanted to post an update! Opal's behavior, appetite, and colors haven't changed at all, and I haven't noticed any further damage to her fins. I've been doing 50% water changes every other day with Seachem Prime and Stressguard, but I haven't tried any additional meds because I don't think she has rot. She's a durable little fish, but I don't want to stress her out if I don't have to.

Should I continue to do frequent water changes until I notice new growth?
I would continue with water changes. If you see clear finnage, that means she’s getting new growth. Let us know!
 
PrincessBettafish
  • Thread Starter
  • #13
Figured I'd update on Opal.

I noticed her pectoral fin was worn down more today, and her ventral fins look a little more raggedy. If it were rot, wouldn't I see some black or bloody edges around the fins and wouldn't all of them be affected? No change in appetite, coloring, or activity either. She's still super active and super silly.

Is there anything else I can do to encourage healing? I've still been doing regular water changes for her, but it doesn't seem to help her fins. I don't really want to medicate her if she's not sick, but I haven't seen improvement either. It's been over a month.
 

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