Why is this algae so hard to get rid of?!

Dezbian
  • #1
I've been batteling this algae for almost a year and I'm over it. It's green, thick and has killed almost all of my Java moss. I keep cutting back the moss to get the top layers of algae off, only to have it grow back. I do weekly water changes, I have cherry shrimp so I don't wanna kill them off with more frequent water changes. And also cant just get new moss because theres a ton of babies in the tank. I clean the algae off the sides of the tank, the rocks and the plants that I can get it off of and suck it up with my gravel vac, I finally got the lighting on a timing cycle, and it's never on full spectrum. How do I get rid of this stuff. I also have 3 mystery snails in the tank who seem to be helping no one lol

Also I have been using algone in my tank for like a month now and my tank parameters are
Ammonia 0ppm
Nitrite 0ppm
Nitrate 5ppm (trying to get to 0)
Ph 7.5
Temp 78
Kh 3 drops
Gh 2 drops (low I know)

Tank stocking is 4 guppies, 3 albino corydoras, 3 mystery snail, 1 bristlenose pleco, and cherry shrimp

Tank filtration and setup is a 20 galling long with an aquaclear hob filter for 30 gallons and sponge Filter, as well as airstone in the back.
 

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Cue
  • #2
Well, that’s because it’s not algae. It’s Cyanobacteria, or blue-green (not) algae. I’m not entirely sure how to get rid of it, but I do know it’s one of those things that just exists in the water and takes hold where it can.
 

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Dezbian
  • Thread Starter
  • #3
Well, that’s because it’s not algae. It’s Cyanobacteria, or blue-green (not) algae. I’m not entirely sure how to get rid of it, but I do know it’s one of those things that just exists in the water and takes hold where it can.
Well the reaks:(
 
Flyfisha
  • #4
That is Blue green, as mentioned.

“Blue exit “is the answer. There are a couple of products from the same manufacturer that all work. The pond bottle is the cheapest but get the aquarium bottle if that’s all you can find.

From Holland , they don’t have to write the active ingredients on the packaging.
 

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Dezbian
  • Thread Starter
  • #5
That is Blue green, as mentioned.

“Blue exit “is the answer. There are a couple of products from the same manufacturer that all work. The pond bottle is the cheapest but get the aquarium bottle if that’s all you can find.

From Holland , they don’t have to write the active ingredients on the packaging.
View attachment 866873
Will this kill my shrimp and snails?
 
Flyfisha
  • #6
I have used it with pest snails pond snails rams horns a MTS snails and neocaridina shrimp no problem.
I can’t say what will happen with mystery snails or other “ pet “ snails as I do not keep them .
 

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Dezbian
  • Thread Starter
  • #7
I have used it with pest snails pond snails rams horns a MTS snails and neocaridina shrimp no problem.
I can’t say what will happen with mystery snails or other “ pet “ snails as I do not keep them .
Thank you I'm checking it out right now!
 
Flyfisha
  • #8
I edited my post to add my own pictures. Both products have the same active ingredient but one is for ponds and is cheaper ( in Australia)

Remove as much as you can by hand before you start .
 
Dezbian
  • Thread Starter
  • #9
I edited my post to add my own pictures. Both products have the same active ingredient but one is for ponds and is cheaper ( in Australia)
Where did you buy yours?
 
Flyfisha
  • #10
Any good aquarium shop in Australia has it .
 

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Dezbian
  • Thread Starter
  • #11
Any good aquarium shop in Australia has it .
I'm in America though and I can't find it anywhere here, not even Amazon! Lol is it safe for freshwater aqauriums?
 
GlennO
  • #12
Redshark1
  • #13
I found that getting the plants growing fast seems to outcompete this cyanobacteria. This may mean tweeking the lighting intensity, duration, nutrients, temperature, water changes, fish feeding etc.

I think carbon limits the plant growth so it can be tricky getting things in balance without CO2 but possible. I have never used CO2 but want to try it at some point.

You may need the chemical cyanobacteria killer to help you start with a fresh slate.
 

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Dezbian
  • Thread Starter
  • #14
I found that getting the plants growing fast seems to outcompete this cyanobacteria. This may mean tweeking the lighting intensity, duration, nutrients, temperature, water changes, fish feeding etc.

I think carbon limits the plant growth so it can be tricky getting things in balance without CO2 but possible. I have never used CO2 but want to try it at some point.

You may need the chemical cyanobacteria killer to help you start with a fresh slate.
I don't want to kill my shrimp and snails.
There is another product mentioned by a US member in this thread:

https://www.fishlore.com/aquariumfishforum/threads/cyanobacteria-driving-me-insane.514613/

There are also some management measures to consider to help control it and prevent it from returning as outlined in this article:

How to control cyanobacteria (Blue-green algae) in an aquarium
I looked at the outline and I've already tried alot of what was in there or are currently doing it I think I'll try these products but don't want to kill my shrimp and snails :/ thank you for letting me know about the other product but again, is it safe for shrimp and snails. I really don't want my $60 worth of shrimp to die guys.
I don't want to kill my shrimp and snails.

I looked at the outline and I've already tried alot of what was in there or are currently doing it I think I'll try these products but don't want to kill my shrimp and snails :/ thank you for letting me know about the other product but again, is it safe for shrimp and snails. I really don't want my $60 worth of shrimp to die guys.
Also that says its for reef tanks and this is freshwater, is it the same product for both systems?
 
MrMuggles
  • #15
You may need the chemical cyanobacteria killer to help you start with a fresh slate.
do what Redshark said, the ONLY product you need is available right in the US its called Boyd's Chemiclean. From the makers of chemipure. it fixed my cyanobacteria bloom in 1 treatment! Cyanobacteria are still fully suppressed months later. Its totally safe and stress free for the fish, plants and inverts
 

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